- Location
- Portland, OR
8 pages.
KIDO COILOVER STRUT BROKEN-Chedman please advise
- Thread starter DESILVAFX35
- Start date
8 pages.
- Location
- Dallas, TX
- Car
- 2007 FX35 RWD
I'm on 3 :dontknow:
- Location
- Santa Clarita, CA
- Car
- 2005 FX45
Page number will depend on if you have it at default or specified a larger number replies per page.
But 9 here also on the desktop.
But 9 here also on the desktop.
3 on iphone safari
- Location
- brooklyn, ny
wow, sorry guys, first chance I've had in a while to check out the forums and see this thread, been really tied up lately 
I don't really have any good pictures because I was not able to remove the shock yet, I wasn't able to remove the wheel even, the wheel lock keys were unavailable at the time I got to see this, but the bottom of the shock separated from the threaded tube. it was making a knocking noise as the car was bounced up and down and I was able to feel the bottom of the shock disconnected from the shock itself, looks like the threads pulled straight out. at the time all I could do to even see it at all was shove my phone in there and snap some pictures. from what I can see from the pictures though does show that this end cap is glued/ bonded or some sort of sealer/adhesive is used on the thread... at the time I couldn't even tell if it was threaded or if it was just insert ridges and then pressed in but now of course I can see that this is threaded.
here are the shots I have from shoving my phone in there, wendsday I'll be removing them to get a better look and see it better. I don't think this damage could be from bottoming out or a pothole or anything and seeing that the thing was glued and of course the upper adjustment was tight, it shouldn't/couldn't have threaded itself out, my only guess at this point is that it pulled out, I'll see it better when I remove the wheel and the shock.
I don't really have any good pictures because I was not able to remove the shock yet, I wasn't able to remove the wheel even, the wheel lock keys were unavailable at the time I got to see this, but the bottom of the shock separated from the threaded tube. it was making a knocking noise as the car was bounced up and down and I was able to feel the bottom of the shock disconnected from the shock itself, looks like the threads pulled straight out. at the time all I could do to even see it at all was shove my phone in there and snap some pictures. from what I can see from the pictures though does show that this end cap is glued/ bonded or some sort of sealer/adhesive is used on the thread... at the time I couldn't even tell if it was threaded or if it was just insert ridges and then pressed in but now of course I can see that this is threaded.
here are the shots I have from shoving my phone in there, wendsday I'll be removing them to get a better look and see it better. I don't think this damage could be from bottoming out or a pothole or anything and seeing that the thing was glued and of course the upper adjustment was tight, it shouldn't/couldn't have threaded itself out, my only guess at this point is that it pulled out, I'll see it better when I remove the wheel and the shock.
Attachments
- Location
- Dallas, TX
- Car
- 2007 FX35 RWD
Threads looked stripped. I'd love to run some numbers and see if the threads could even hold ~1000 lbs, but I don't have near enough information to do that, and guessing at stuff could be too far off.
- Location
- Toronto, Canada
- Car
- 2008 fx35 AWD
seems like the quality of the metal is to soft for the load that the threads can't hold the stress and stripped itself loose. whats that gray stuff? some type of thread lock?
- Location
- Dallas, TX
- Car
- 2007 FX35 RWD
Yep I was thinking that also. Made the threads weak or they didn't contact correctly.
- Location
- Portland, OR
KIDO will probably tell you the grade of their materials if you pretend to be a customer, bit that still won't tell you whether their manufacturer adhered to the specs. The best you could hope for is to get your mitts on that stripped part for a forensic analysis. Its tough to say how much force was on that bottom portion though. Seems like just the weight of the wheel + the momentum of the spring's extension. Ie, "not much"...
- Location
- Dallas, TX
- Car
- 2007 FX35 RWD
I'd need pitch diameters, thread spacing, thread type, material of course, etc.
Just had a final on all this stuff. :nerd (2):
Just had a final on all this stuff. :nerd (2):
- Location
- brooklyn, ny
a major contributing factor of a thread like this' strength comes from length of engagement too, so far looks to me like maybe less than 1/2" thread engagement. I'm thinking maybe tig welding this seam is possible.
this end caps threads are probably kept as short as possible to allow the shock to adjust to as low as possible, but that lower cap should be designed to have maybe double that much thread engagement for a big heavy vehicle like this... not only the vehicle being heavier but in a case like this also the unsprung weight and wheels can be much much heavier than a typical import tuner car, on the extension where this failure seems to have happened this shock would have had to counteract the force of a pretty heavy 24" wheel slapping against it at full extension, it's like trying to pull the end cap out with a larger, heavier slap hammer... this isn't a car that's going to have a 17"-18" wheel with a low profile tire, much higher forces pulling against it with really big wheels
this end caps threads are probably kept as short as possible to allow the shock to adjust to as low as possible, but that lower cap should be designed to have maybe double that much thread engagement for a big heavy vehicle like this... not only the vehicle being heavier but in a case like this also the unsprung weight and wheels can be much much heavier than a typical import tuner car, on the extension where this failure seems to have happened this shock would have had to counteract the force of a pretty heavy 24" wheel slapping against it at full extension, it's like trying to pull the end cap out with a larger, heavier slap hammer... this isn't a car that's going to have a 17"-18" wheel with a low profile tire, much higher forces pulling against it with really big wheels
I might of missed this but who did this install?
Was everything looked over prior to install?
Its very possible cross thread from factory, as possible that it wasn't thread fully from factory and when it was installed it could of unthreaded some more.
I've done 3 BC coil installs and all three sets came with all different settings out the box with height and dampening as well as one being fully extened with one or two thread of contact. If I was to install it like that, something like what people are saying could of happen. This would be the fault of the final packer and the installer.
I'm not a fan of that 3 piece design at all that andy posted. My BC is a 2 peice .
Was everything looked over prior to install?
Its very possible cross thread from factory, as possible that it wasn't thread fully from factory and when it was installed it could of unthreaded some more.
I've done 3 BC coil installs and all three sets came with all different settings out the box with height and dampening as well as one being fully extened with one or two thread of contact. If I was to install it like that, something like what people are saying could of happen. This would be the fault of the final packer and the installer.
I'm not a fan of that 3 piece design at all that andy posted. My BC is a 2 peice .
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- Location
- brooklyn, ny
i installed these myself and I adjusted the lengths on both sides to be equal as a baseline, and then adjusted each side equal amounts for each adjustment to keep the length the same left to right, everything looked normal. this i not compression damage, it's pulled outI think the minimal thread engagement of this end cap is the culprit here, I'm hoping I can tig weld this joint so the bottom cap becomes one piece with the tube, that should eliminate any chance of future problems with this particular issue
So the facts so far, correct if wrong:
1) The lock ring on top of the damper was locked tight at install.
2) The bottom piece (end cap) of the damper was locked tight with the 2nd/middle piece at install.
3) Either cross threaded or not enough strength and end cap simply pulled out.
Turbo will try to TIG weld aluminum (tricky?) so it's one piece.
There are at least 10 KIDO coilovers FX riders out there, Andy's which have 24's too and driven hard -- none others have failed. Desilvia -- did you want KIDO to express mail you a rear shock damper to John's shop? I'm not speaking on KIDO's behalf, and I'd have to ask them if they can warranty it based on the photos John posted.
1) The lock ring on top of the damper was locked tight at install.
2) The bottom piece (end cap) of the damper was locked tight with the 2nd/middle piece at install.
3) Either cross threaded or not enough strength and end cap simply pulled out.
Turbo will try to TIG weld aluminum (tricky?) so it's one piece.
There are at least 10 KIDO coilovers FX riders out there, Andy's which have 24's too and driven hard -- none others have failed. Desilvia -- did you want KIDO to express mail you a rear shock damper to John's shop? I'm not speaking on KIDO's behalf, and I'd have to ask them if they can warranty it based on the photos John posted.
From John's pics, the gap between the tube and the cap has been for awhile now with all the dust around it like the rest of the dampener. I wonder if is was unscrewed at the very beginning. The tube and cap are screw together with some type of "lock tight" glue/adhesive. They're on pretty tight.