What went wrong with your FX today?
- Thread starter Dracula
- Start date
So get this! Yesterday I'm cutting my grass and I had moved my car out into the street for obvious reasons. The next thing I know it sounds like a bomb went off and I run around to the front of my house and some freakin pill head smashed into the back of my car! She hit it so hard in the drivers rear bumper and quarter/tire that it moved my car forward and to the right 4 feet up on the curb. Keep in mind I live on a side street in a subdivision with one way in and out, so it's not like we have through traffic and I'm on a heavily traveled street! Needless to say her front passenger tire hit my rear drivers side tire and when parked the car wheels were straight, after impact they were turned to the right up on the curb! The impact was so hard that it pushed her front tire/axle back into the fender well/rocker panel to the point the van cannot be driven. The police arrested her for DUI and luckily she has full coverage insurance but my car is fucked! Now my steering wheel going straight is at 2 o'clock rather than 12:00 and if I let go of the wheel it goes left! Only god knows what is messed up underneath and behind the panels. And to add insult to injury I just had it to Mooks frame here in Lexington, ky last week and had rear camber kits installed and had the car dialed in perfect with the coilovers, alignment, as well as 4 new yokohama's installed and road force balanced. Now it will be weeks before I get my car back and now it's been wrecked! I'm soo pissed about it all, not only the car, but the time and aggravation of getting the car fixed. And let's not forget that now its gonna have a hit on the carfax! I take it in tomarrow morning to my adjuster, I can only imagine what the cost will be? Just cutting out the rear quarter and repairing it can't be cheap by any means!
That's frustrating, but at least insurance is taking care of it. New quarter isn't going to be too bad, it's a pretty common thing for body shops to fix. It takes less effort than I thought it would, as long as they can match the paint. Other than that, probably have to replace all the suspension components back there and maybe on the front where it went up the curb. As long as there wasn't unibody damage which it doesn't sound like, you should be fine. As long as it aligns after the fix which it should unless there is unibody damage.
12 days after my accident, mine is still at the shop. They're waiting on a new tire after replacing the tie rods. Then they'll align and I should be set. And mine had no body damage at all, just suspension. Yours is likely to be out for longer, hopefully they didn't take out the coil over.
12 days after my accident, mine is still at the shop. They're waiting on a new tire after replacing the tie rods. Then they'll align and I should be set. And mine had no body damage at all, just suspension. Yours is likely to be out for longer, hopefully they didn't take out the coil over.
- Car
- 2012 Nissan Maxima SV
- Name
- Joey
That sucks and I'm sure its going to be way more than $3700 total
Wheel bearing went to shit.
Update: had to get a whole new hub as well because the wheel bearing welded itself to it.
---------- Post added at 03:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:40 AM ----------
Update: had to get a whole new hub as well because the wheel bearing welded itself to it.
---------- Post added at 03:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:40 AM ----------
Update: had to get a whole new hub as well because the wheel bearing welded itself to it.
Been away for a while and once got back my AC died on me. I flushed the system 2 months ago and improved slightly but now the compressor isn't giving the necessary amount of pressure and only cools if driving. I was told I should change the expansion valve in the process as well.
Should I be looking at any specific brand? Saw a few on ebay.
Should I be looking at any specific brand? Saw a few on ebay.
payyourtoll
Member
- Name
- Rob
I didn't think you could replace just the bearings? I thought they were part of the hub anyway?
Okay ever since I got my Uprev tune my cruise control isn't working. (I don't know if it quite working prior to the tune, or if that's just the first time I noticed it).
Now I don't know wether it has to do with the actual Uprev, but the tuning guys say it has nothing to do with that.
As far as I can tell everything else works except for cruise control, but basically it does nothing when I hit the on button. The cruise light on the dash never comes on.
I thought it might have been a fuse, but everything else works fine, and there doesn't seem to be just a cruise control fuse.
I read that maybe my switch up by my pedal is messed up, or unplugged, I double checked that and it seems to be fine.
My situation is weird from others in that its not the fact that my CC doesn't want to set, its the fact that I can't get it on at all.
Advice?
Also note that I do not have ICC. Just regular CC with the buttons on the wheel.
Now I don't know wether it has to do with the actual Uprev, but the tuning guys say it has nothing to do with that.
As far as I can tell everything else works except for cruise control, but basically it does nothing when I hit the on button. The cruise light on the dash never comes on.
I thought it might have been a fuse, but everything else works fine, and there doesn't seem to be just a cruise control fuse.
I read that maybe my switch up by my pedal is messed up, or unplugged, I double checked that and it seems to be fine.
My situation is weird from others in that its not the fact that my CC doesn't want to set, its the fact that I can't get it on at all.
Advice?
Also note that I do not have ICC. Just regular CC with the buttons on the wheel.
The front is a hub and bearing assembly. The rear is just the bearing. Hub needs to be pressed out and into the new one. This is for AWD.
What are your high and low side pressures? Don't start replacing random parts just because people tell you to. You may just have low refrigerant which based on your symptoms may be the case. If low refrigerant, it may be enough for the compressor to turn on, but not be enough to properly cool your car. That's why it works better when moving, more airflow over the condenser means better heat exchange. So check that again, you may just have a leak.
It may be the expansion valve. If it's sticking or clogged, the refrigerant may not expand properly and this is the actual part of the cycle where it gets really cold and does the cooling.
But before doing anything, hook up a set of gauges to the high and low sides. That basically tells you everything. If the low side pressure is too low, then add more refrigerant. If the high side is too high, then your expansion valve may be clogged or stuck. If the high side isn't much higher than the low side, then your compressor is bad and not compressing.
The system is very simple. Compressor "compresses" refrigerant through condenser where heat is shed w/ ambient air. This then passes through expansion valve where it goes from high to low pressure and expands, this expansion is what causes the refrigerant to get cold. The cold refrigerant passes through evaporator which cools the actual air that comes through your vents. Then the refrigerant goes back to the compressor and gets pressurized again. So the only moving parts are the compressor and the expansion valve. Other parts can only cause leaks, they're not really going to fail.
The primary cause of bad cooling is low refrigerant. Compressors fail much less than people think but shops love changing them because it's expensive.
It may be the expansion valve. If it's sticking or clogged, the refrigerant may not expand properly and this is the actual part of the cycle where it gets really cold and does the cooling.
But before doing anything, hook up a set of gauges to the high and low sides. That basically tells you everything. If the low side pressure is too low, then add more refrigerant. If the high side is too high, then your expansion valve may be clogged or stuck. If the high side isn't much higher than the low side, then your compressor is bad and not compressing.
The system is very simple. Compressor "compresses" refrigerant through condenser where heat is shed w/ ambient air. This then passes through expansion valve where it goes from high to low pressure and expands, this expansion is what causes the refrigerant to get cold. The cold refrigerant passes through evaporator which cools the actual air that comes through your vents. Then the refrigerant goes back to the compressor and gets pressurized again. So the only moving parts are the compressor and the expansion valve. Other parts can only cause leaks, they're not really going to fail.
The primary cause of bad cooling is low refrigerant. Compressors fail much less than people think but shops love changing them because it's expensive.