What went wrong with your FX today?

Yeah, hid the sound processor there seems like a great idea at the time. Luckily, I was a gas station near home. Drove back rip the passenger side trunk trimmings to remove it so I can get to the latch.
 
Somebody stole one of my luggage rack covers ..... anyone know how much they go for.?

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Today nothing , last week I had the slip and vdc off lights come on. Pulled the codes and found I had to replace the cam sensor. Decided to replace both with belts. Cost 500.00


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I just noticed that my black trim that goes around the rear window, on top behind the third break light, facing the roof, started to separate, and is slightly raised up and bowing up. Now that is freaking annoying since the only way to get to it, will be only if I remove the entire rear hatch off the car!! guessing this stuff is glued and hopefully I can just re-glue it and that's it. But removing that whole piece will be fun tomorrow!
 
I went to release the e-brake at school today and heard a "pop", which was followed by a completely loose e-brake pedal. No problem, I thought. Probably just a broken cable. Then I began to reverse and heard the most godawful crunching sound followed by scraping and screeching. Ugh.

Being in the parking garage at school with no tools, I got out to investigate and found nothing. E-brake was intact, rotor was fine, pads were fine. I came to the conclusion that something in the e-brake mechanism exploded, so I soldiered on and endured the awful screeching for the 7min drive home. Jacked up the car, pulled the rotor, and found this.
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It appears that the either the clip holding the pin into the lever below the hub popped off, or the left pad spring retainer came off. Regardless, it set off a chain reaction that mangled every small part save the springs.

Total carnage:
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Fortunately nothing broke and the parts that were bent were steel, so I was able to reshape them, anneal them with a torch, and reinstall. Just returned from the test drive and all is well.

Viva la diy! :is:
 
She's getting back at you she knows your getting rid of her!
 
Haha! Good one, John!
That's quite some fix there. I would have opened that up, found several beers, and not gotten it back together.
 
Went over a speed bump last week, one of the bolted down ones. Was carrying a full load of passengers so I guess I was a little lower than usual. As soon as the front wheels went over, the car bottomed out with a bang. Crowded parking lot so like 50 people turned around. Now there's a tiny rattle at idle sometimes. As soon as I rev it, it goes away. I have a feeling that my cat heat shields are bent.

And it turns out I cannot drive anywhere with the GT Spec mid chassis brace. I kept it on for one day and I couldn't enter any parking lots without scraping and I risked high centering the car leaving any parking garage. Trying to figure out if I can modify it to work or if it's a lost cause. The design is sort of silly, they bent the bar to clear the exhaust but it's totally unnecessary. There's probably more exhaust clearance on my car than ground clearance with the way the bar is designed. I'm going to see if the cost to cut/straighten the bar is worth it.
 
Gt spec should of had two options: standard bars, OE type no bents, just straight design or moddified to clear the aftermarket exhaust. I dont like the look of the rear lateral at all. Someone always pulled me over to inform me my rear swar bar is bent.
 
Got my fogs tinted he use regular tint vs high heat so ruined my fog housing anyway do u guys know if fogs fight o either side? I found an oem mint used one for 25 but says passsenger side and i need driver


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Abs-vdc-slip-awd lights are on after wheel bearing change. Mechanic broke both speed sensors. Replaced them with new ones made by the brand Standard. Cleared the lights. Now few days later, lights are on. Drive some more they go off. Here and there the lights would be on for hours then off for hours. Im guessing a faulty sensor. Anyone experience this?

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Hmm, if the ABS light should be the only one that comes on when there is a problem with the ABS sensor. I had to drive without an ABS sensor for a couple of days and that's the only that was on. How is the brake fluid level.
 

Steering was shaking again around 60 so I tightened the rack tension adjuster in a little. The adjustment was a little tight but not bad. Took it for a short drive into town and when pulling into parking lot I thought I heard a noise briefly. Best I can describe it is the sound of the anti slip when it triggers the rapid brake pulse. Didn't hear it again.
So I proceeded with a trip down the mountain and about 50 miles into the trip all of a sudden heard the noise again this time louder and kind of scary so I pulled over immediately and did a quick visual check of Wheels,Brakes and checked the steering fluid.
The only thing I saw was that the steering fluid was at the minimum level mark. So I started the FX and did a few test runs in the turnout area and everything seemed normal. Drove for another 20 miles to our destination with no more issues.
Going to pick up some Dextron ATF and fill to correct level before I head back up the Mountain.
The only thing that changed before the issue was the tension of the rack tension adjuster bolt does anyone know if this was a coincidence or directly related?
Oh and no dash indicators lit up either.

---------- Post added at 03:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:16 PM ----------

Well just logged another 60 or so miles after topping off steering fluid and no repeat of vibration noise.
 
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Hey guys, so my hatch latch (hey that rhymes) became really loose today and I want to tighten it but how do I get to the bolts? It seems as though the whole aluminum protector comes off with tabs but I want to make sure before I break something trying to pry it off vedu6ymy.jpg
 
Slide the trunk floor board out of the way and pull straight up to remove the aluminum plate.
 
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