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- Car
- 2003 FX35T
- Name
- Brad
1) 15mm or 20mm spacers? (I don't want 25mm, I believe they will be too much with the 21"OEM)
Go for the 20mm.
2) Do I need to shave my studs? (Apparently yes from TurboCad in either case of spacers selection)
I bought the Ichiba V2 spacer (ten studs) and did NOT have to shave my OEM studs. I was ready to do so because of what I had read here, but I did not have a clearance issue and I am running this 20mm spacer today.
Go for the 20mm.
2) Do I need to shave my studs? (Apparently yes from TurboCad in either case of spacers selection)
I bought the Ichiba V2 spacer (ten studs) and did NOT have to shave my OEM studs. I was ready to do so because of what I had read here, but I did not have a clearance issue and I am running this 20mm spacer today.
Black Mumba
Member
By using spacers will they pass the fender wells and kick up dirt onto the body?
- Car
- 09 FX50
a tiny bit more will be kicked up.
I myself have not done the 20mm with stock wheels, I did 15 & they def need to be cut, eg3 said same thing about the 20mm, BUT at that point he had already replaced the OE studs that I had to cut originally, with what I don't know... maybe they were slightly longer than the originals & why he said even 20mm need to be cut? I do rember telling him that I thought 20's woulda worked, as I did wind up cutting off ~5mm stud length, but he then later said no...
when a wheel is drilled with 10 holes it's so the wheel can fit more applications & is 2 different bolt patterns. this is usually only done on cheap wheels to get the most applications out of one casting. most likely the second set of holes is a different bolt pattern & will not line up with the studs, you can confirm this by taking a wheel off & trying the other set of holes... if both sets of holes are the same(highly doubtful) then you can use a lesser spacer without cutting anything... chances are kinda slim of this being the case, I won't say impossible but almost... then also, if the rim is double drilled then it will not even have the recesses that a stock wheel has between the lugs obviously
as far as 25mm spacers on the 09 21's, don't think it's been tried yet on the new body. if your never going to lower it then I think it might be ok. 15mm should def be fine though no matter what, they don't use an agressive offset on the fx at all & I'd assume 15 is very safe as far as fitment, 20 should be ok... 25 is questionable, especially with the wider 21's & the new body too...
now according to jumbo the stock studs work without cutting on the factory wheel, BUT the factory wheel also does have a recess between the lugs that your winter wheels won't have since it's a dual bolt pattern most likely, so even if they will work with the stockers, it may not with the winters...
to me, the best way to make this decision is dependent on weather you want to also space the 21's or not... if so, then 15 or 20 with a little stud shaving can work if your comfortable with the 10 stud design to begin with... 25's also may very well work, but not 100% confirmed really... you could always run the 25's with the winter wheels & then take the spacers off for the 21's...
when a wheel is drilled with 10 holes it's so the wheel can fit more applications & is 2 different bolt patterns. this is usually only done on cheap wheels to get the most applications out of one casting. most likely the second set of holes is a different bolt pattern & will not line up with the studs, you can confirm this by taking a wheel off & trying the other set of holes... if both sets of holes are the same(highly doubtful) then you can use a lesser spacer without cutting anything... chances are kinda slim of this being the case, I won't say impossible but almost... then also, if the rim is double drilled then it will not even have the recesses that a stock wheel has between the lugs obviously
as far as 25mm spacers on the 09 21's, don't think it's been tried yet on the new body. if your never going to lower it then I think it might be ok. 15mm should def be fine though no matter what, they don't use an agressive offset on the fx at all & I'd assume 15 is very safe as far as fitment, 20 should be ok... 25 is questionable, especially with the wider 21's & the new body too...
now according to jumbo the stock studs work without cutting on the factory wheel, BUT the factory wheel also does have a recess between the lugs that your winter wheels won't have since it's a dual bolt pattern most likely, so even if they will work with the stockers, it may not with the winters...
to me, the best way to make this decision is dependent on weather you want to also space the 21's or not... if so, then 15 or 20 with a little stud shaving can work if your comfortable with the 10 stud design to begin with... 25's also may very well work, but not 100% confirmed really... you could always run the 25's with the winter wheels & then take the spacers off for the 21's...
Okay, I am very unsure of all this, but I honestly think it's flush flush? is that possible? I only have 3mm spacer in the front so that it clears the brakes.
This picture is the back of the OEM 21", and it looks like it has holes between to fit the stock studs in case they're too long.
The tires seems to "pop out" more on these 20"s, sort of like "pumped" i don't know how to explain... The summer ones, they're flatter as in the outside of rim and the sidewall of the tires are not too far in terms of depth.
Now, am I crazy or my rims/tires are already flush flush in the front? These are the winter wheels +38mm offset with Blizzak DM-Z3 265/50/20
If this is flush flush, i'm going to get longer studs and stick with the 3mm universal spacers and call it a day....
The studs are $12 each, so thats $120 for the front + labor, its going to be like $200.....
Thanks guys for all your help and input
Attachments
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- Car
- 2010 White FX50S-sold
- Name
- Wayne
Your pics no worky, but I am glad you finally made a decision and are going with just the longer studs in the front.
- Car
- 2010 White FX50S-sold
- Name
- Wayne
It will be perfectly fine
- Car
- 2010 White FX50S-sold
- Name
- Wayne
It looks like they are out quite a bit. It looks like they are more than 5mm further out than mine.
I will try to find a pic of my front tires on my Enkeis which are 265/50/20 on a 8.5 rim with a 40mm offset.
Here's one to compare,
Attachments
- Car
- 2010 White FX50S-sold
- Name
- Wayne
No mine are still tucked in a bit, they are far from flush.
how wide are they? offset is only part of the total equation
they are def out there, you don't want or need anything like 15-20mm with those that's for sure
replacing the studs with 10mm longer than stock is def your best option for this considering how much there already out.
they are def out there, you don't want or need anything like 15-20mm with those that's for sure
replacing the studs with 10mm longer than stock is def your best option for this considering how much there already out.
- Car
- 2010 White FX50S-sold
- Name
- Wayne
Your wheels look good like that, but they do seem like they are pushed out more than that.
Don't worry about it they look very nice on your ride
They are 8.5 wide
Are Boss wheels that bad of a brand?
I didn't know, i thought they were considered "okay" and since they're for winter, i wasn't gonna spend considerable amount of $ on it.....
This was quite a ride, but I think conclusion comes to the fact that I am going for the extended stud option.
Thanks to all of you who took time to reply to me! I know you guys were about to rip my head apart lol.
Thanks GEE35FX, black gets dirty so easily though, kinda getting annoying sometimes
And both of you seemed happy with the fact that i'm not going for spacers, you two are skeptical about spacers uh? :tonguey:
Are Boss wheels that bad of a brand?
I didn't know, i thought they were considered "okay" and since they're for winter, i wasn't gonna spend considerable amount of $ on it.....
This was quite a ride, but I think conclusion comes to the fact that I am going for the extended stud option.
Thanks to all of you who took time to reply to me! I know you guys were about to rip my head apart lol.
Thanks GEE35FX, black gets dirty so easily though, kinda getting annoying sometimes
And both of you seemed happy with the fact that i'm not going for spacers, you two are skeptical about spacers uh? :tonguey:
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I'm not against spacers really, not as thrilled with adaptors though, which technically the 10 stud spacer design really is more of, even though they just call them spacers there not spacers as much as adapters, just happen to use same bolt pattern in & out
I have the same situation as you with my winter wheels, need a spacer to clear my brakes. mine too are aftermarket wheels, & they are also oversized center bore. the hubcentric of our wheels is very important, this causes as much chance of vibration as balancing. hubcentric is important, said that twice because it's very important, opps, said it 3 times now
spacers should be hub centric. the wheel is perfectly centered by the hub not the studs, studs get it in the ballpark but hub is absolute. the hub only engages the wheel by a little bit... by the time you account for the camfer of the wheel bore actual hub engagement is only about 5mm or so. using a 3mm universal, non hub centric spacer is not really leaving as much engagement at the hub. combine that with a plastic spacer ring & you gotta confirm enough engagement hub to ring & ring to wheel... if it's sitting just on the edge of the lip with just 1-2mm engagement then you can still have vibration issues. def get the rings at least & make sure there is stil good hub to ring engagement with that 3mm universal spacer, think even 3mm can screw up the hubcentric....
obviously the wheels are inexpensive cast wheels, but if there round & true & balanced & hub centered & don't vibrate or cause problems there probably ok, maybe the sacrifice is extra weight if they are fine otherwise.... but if they vibrate & cause problems then they're no bargain no matter how cheap they were
what I did was have spacers made for me that combine the spacer and the centering ring as one piece of aluminum. I took precise measurement of the wheel bore & had the spacers made to be fairly snug.... need to be tapped lightly into the wheel, once in the wheel it's the next best thing to being part of the wheel & they just stay in the wheel, even when the wheel is removed & reinstalled, almost like there not even there. this, combined with the right stud length is as close as youre going to get to having the correct wheel in the first place & 100% trouble free hub centric .... these spacers are $65 each, ~ 140 shipped for the pair & probably worth you considering too... the guy I used doesn't do anything under 5mm though... extra 2mm won't make a difference & is much better than a 3mm universal spacer & a seperate plastic spacer ring
I have the same situation as you with my winter wheels, need a spacer to clear my brakes. mine too are aftermarket wheels, & they are also oversized center bore. the hubcentric of our wheels is very important, this causes as much chance of vibration as balancing. hubcentric is important, said that twice because it's very important, opps, said it 3 times now
spacers should be hub centric. the wheel is perfectly centered by the hub not the studs, studs get it in the ballpark but hub is absolute. the hub only engages the wheel by a little bit... by the time you account for the camfer of the wheel bore actual hub engagement is only about 5mm or so. using a 3mm universal, non hub centric spacer is not really leaving as much engagement at the hub. combine that with a plastic spacer ring & you gotta confirm enough engagement hub to ring & ring to wheel... if it's sitting just on the edge of the lip with just 1-2mm engagement then you can still have vibration issues. def get the rings at least & make sure there is stil good hub to ring engagement with that 3mm universal spacer, think even 3mm can screw up the hubcentric....
obviously the wheels are inexpensive cast wheels, but if there round & true & balanced & hub centered & don't vibrate or cause problems there probably ok, maybe the sacrifice is extra weight if they are fine otherwise.... but if they vibrate & cause problems then they're no bargain no matter how cheap they were
what I did was have spacers made for me that combine the spacer and the centering ring as one piece of aluminum. I took precise measurement of the wheel bore & had the spacers made to be fairly snug.... need to be tapped lightly into the wheel, once in the wheel it's the next best thing to being part of the wheel & they just stay in the wheel, even when the wheel is removed & reinstalled, almost like there not even there. this, combined with the right stud length is as close as youre going to get to having the correct wheel in the first place & 100% trouble free hub centric .... these spacers are $65 each, ~ 140 shipped for the pair & probably worth you considering too... the guy I used doesn't do anything under 5mm though... extra 2mm won't make a difference & is much better than a 3mm universal spacer & a seperate plastic spacer ring
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Thanks Turbo,
The vibration that i feel is not noticeable unless you concentrate.... I still don't have the centering rings installed, they're still on their way.... You can feel them at most around 110~120km/h
I hope the rings will make the difference... I mean they're winter wheels, i'm not going to be driving more than 120km/h constantly, maybe hit 140km/h for a couple seconds here and there once in a while, but that's about it for winter.
The vibration that i feel is not noticeable unless you concentrate.... I still don't have the centering rings installed, they're still on their way.... You can feel them at most around 110~120km/h
I hope the rings will make the difference... I mean they're winter wheels, i'm not going to be driving more than 120km/h constantly, maybe hit 140km/h for a couple seconds here and there once in a while, but that's about it for winter.
you keep saying there winter wheels, but that fx50s is no less of a machine in the winter as it is the rest of the year, & what is the percentage of there use?... 30% of the year? maybe more. also considering that winter does come every year... to me winter wheels are not so unimportant compared to summer wheels, especially on a beast like the 50s...