onthemove MOD's

After doing some digging around I found out that Hitachi sensors bought at multiple big name auto parts stores (Rock Auto) are in fact original equipment. Bought 2 cam and 1 crank shaft position sensors for the price of one from the dealer. F'n dealers. :tdown:
Here's a link to how I came to this conclusion towards the bottom. Should save some of you sob's a little dough, ya know. :LOL:
Walker camshaft position sensor? - G35Driver - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion
 
Alright, I just read through most of this thread. I didn't read every word, but I certainly got the gist of it. I've been modding VQ engines since 2001, and have a good amount of experience in drag, auto-x and rally-x.

First thing that caught my attention was the removal of the sway bars. I don't really understand your obsession with weight reduction since this isn't a race car and you don't really race it, but to each his own. I've removed sway bars from my rally-x E36 M3 and it really increased wallow both on the highway and in turns. In the end, I had to reinstall the RSB because the car understeered too much, but the FSB is still off for better articulation in the dirt. If I take it to an auto-x event, the FSB goes back on. If it were strictly a street car, it would be running larger sway bars. I'm surprised that you like running without sway bars as much as you do. I'd be curious to hear your thoughts after reinstalling them after all this time. Although, from the looks of this thread, your sole concern is straight line speed and not handling, so in that context removing the sways makes more sense.

Second thing- Your wire tuck job was very impressive and results are great! But again, I was surprised that this was one of the first things you did to the vehicle. In my experience, most people only get to wire tucks after they already done all of the normal/easy mods. What made you do it so early? I'm guessing you've done them before?

Third thing- Like I said, I've been around VQs since 2001, and have seen every intake idea there is. I will say that your obsession with it goes above and beyond what most people do, and it looks like a good setup. However, there's no way that your power mods and slight weight reduction have taken something like 2 seconds off your 0-60 time. That's just not possible. The rule of thumb in drag racing is that removing 100 pounds is good for a 0.1 second reduction for a 1/4 mile run. So you've removed something like 150 pounds? Then that should be good for about a 0.2 reduction in the quarter at most. Translating that to 0-60 numbers, the reduction would be more like 0.1. Messing with your intake setup and temps can't drop your times by over a second. Doing some quick Googling says the FX35 stock ran something like 15.2, and you ran a 14.6? If you're barely half a second quicker in the quarter than stock, how can your 0-60 times be 2 seconds quicker than when stock? Heck, a 2009 FX50 supposedly runs 0-60 in around 5.1. I guess what I'm saying is that I don't fully trust that little timer thing you've got. For all the 0-60 obsessing you do, I'm surprised you don't take it to the drag strip more often. I also don't understand why you're putting so much effort into an intake setup when you're planning on going FI. Is it just for fun/experience? Oh, and please remind me, what are you using to tune?

Fourth thing- Where did you buy the Avery wrap for your doors? It looks like you did a great job, and that's something I'll probably need to do to both the FX and the I30. Got any tips on it? How much material did you buy? How did you get the very ends/edges to stay stuck down? How did you trim/shape it for bends?

Fifth thing- I was so happy to see someone fill the rear diff bushing with poly! I had read about those leaking before buying the FX and immediately thought about filling it with poly instead of trying to remove the damn thing. I haven't looked at the one on our FX yet, but I'm getting mentally prepared to fill it with poly. I'm glad to see someone else has already done it, and with good results!

You've mentioned WD-40 a number of times. WD-40 is junk. If you want a penetrating oil that you can actually buy online, Kano Aerokroil is the best, probably followed by PB Blaster. If you want to lube something, white lithium, silicone, and graphite are all better than WD-40. Wurth HHS Plus is another great lubricant that I found recently.

I saw a picture of you doing an oil change, using a non-OEM filter and some Mobil 1. From everything I've seen in this thread, you should know better! Mobil 1 hasn't been great since way back, and I don't really trust any aftermarket oil filter. I only use OEM oil filters (less than $5 on Amazon) on all my cars, and when the FX gets its first oil change, it will be getting some Motul 8100 X-cess 5w-40. It's actually pretty reasonable on Amazon ($37) considering it's a true synthetic oil. Are you tracking oil consumption?

Anyways, keep up the good and obsessive work! ;)
 
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I pulled down my initial response. I'm in a bad mood after having gotten hit. :mad:

Regarding the acceleration data, if you're that interested, you've got some more reading to do. It's all there and absolutely 100% accurate but don't feel bad cause you're in good company with your assessment.
14.0/5.2 street adjusted for 2/10's scangauge error as scanguage read 13.8 & 5.0 flat
14.3 track (da correction)
track without correction 14.6 and scanguage showed 14.4 3 times. Reliable to within 2/10's
I ran a 15.3 previously on this same track and 7.1 0-60 on the street prior to the mods. I will be heading to a much better track at sea level before eoy which will put the confusion to rest.
Now look at dragtimes.com for example. Short of stulax who ran the 15 flat, what times do you see, all wheel drive or rwd? No shot a stulax, but I think that is a very favorable track to run on cause the track I've been to twice, he aint'a gonn'a get'a them'a times. :tdown:

Avery can be bought at many places. I got mine on Ebay. The mechanics of installing it are too detailed for me to describe. It was a pita and I do not like installing wrap.

Some weight is dead and some is not. 280 lbs and counting so far. 30% of said weight is not dead and this is where my weight reduction counts the most.

You're the 3rd guy (?) to :poop: on WD40. Is this a conspiracy?:rofl: WD40 is fantastic stuff. I don't use it to penetrate rust, don't really have much of that. I use it to lubricate and it works well for me.

Mobile 1 is a fine oil. Used it for a long time. One can read bob the oil guys site till one is blue in the face but Mobile 1 + problend or Lucus is how I roll. Oil consumption is EXTREMELY low. Most ends up in the catch can and of which is very little.

The sway bars mean nothing to me. Easy mod to remove weight, better city-type handling as each wheel is independent. Stock shocks, drop springs, weight reduction and quality tires that are trued makes it drive like a different animal.

I believe a wire tuck done early on is best. Less in the way every time you turn a wrench. Made header install easier among other things.

I don't think I'm obsessive about anything I've done, yet. Just attempting to perfect my ideas. You'll find no other thread anywhere that compares to what I've done regarding the naturally aspirated intake side of things with pics and documentation. It's a culmination of what so many others have done, primarily to their 350z's. It's why, without correction, I have 14.6 second time slips while people barely broke the 15 second barrier with Stillen superchargers. That's what it takes to achieve what nobody else has on this platform, reading, researching and dedication, not obsession.

If obsession is your bag, here you go;
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As for me, I'm just having fun tooling around. :LOL:
 

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Damn. Guess I'll be going to the body shop after all but not picking up the tab. :rofl: Not my fault. Not sure what I'll have done beyond the front end as it's the front end that's the only area that had issues, primarily road rash on the bumper and hood and some missing "chunks" in the bumper from road debris. 5-7 mph bump from a Chevy cruz in a parking lot. Radiator core support cracked, crash bar bent, headlight & supports trashed, hood misaligned, front bumper trashed but no air bag deployment. Cracked my under bumper air scoop to. Bastard.
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I pulled down my initial response. I'm in a bad mood after having gotten hit. :mad:

Regarding the acceleration data, if you're that interested, you've got some more reading to do. It's all there and absolutely 100% accurate but don't feel bad cause you're in good company with your assessment.
14.0/5.2 street adjusted for 2/10's scangauge error as scanguage read 13.8 & 5.0 flat
14.3 track (da correction)
track without correction 14.6 and scanguage showed 14.4 3 times. Reliable to within 2/10's
I ran a 15.3 previously on this same track and 7.1 0-60 on the street prior to the mods. I will be heading to a much better track at sea level before eoy which will put the confusion to rest.
Now look at dragtimes.com for example. Short of stulax who ran the 15 flat, what times do you see, all wheel drive or rwd? No shot a stulax, but I think that is a very favorable track to run on cause the track I've been to twice, he aint'a gonn'a get'a them'a times. :tdown:

Avery can be bought at many places. I got mine on Ebay. The mechanics of installing it are too detailed for me to describe. It was a pita and I do not like installing wrap.

Some weight is dead and some is not. 280 lbs and counting so far. 30% of said weight is not dead and this is where my weight reduction counts the most.

You're the 3rd guy (?) to :poop: on WD40. Is this a conspiracy?:rofl: WD40 is fantastic stuff. I don't use it to penetrate rust, don't really have much of that. I use it to lubricate and it works well for me.

Mobile 1 is a fine oil. Used it for a long time. One can read bob the oil guys site till one is blue in the face but Mobile 1 + problend or Lucus is how I roll. Oil consumption is EXTREMELY low. Most ends up in the catch can and of which is very little.

The sway bars mean nothing to me. Easy mod to remove weight, better city-type handling as each wheel is independent. Stock shocks, drop springs, weight reduction and quality tires that are trued makes it drive like a different animal.

I believe a wire tuck done early on is best. Less in the way every time you turn a wrench. Made header install easier among other things.

I don't think I'm obsessive about anything I've done, yet. Just attempting to perfect my ideas. You'll find no other thread anywhere that compares to what I've done regarding the naturally aspirated intake side of things with pics and documentation. It's a culmination of what so many others have done, primarily to their 350z's. It's why, without correction, I have 14.6 second time slips while people barely broke the 15 second barrier with Stillen superchargers. That's what it takes to achieve what nobody else has on this platform, reading, researching and dedication, not obsession.

If obsession is your bag, here you go;

As for me, I'm just having fun tooling around. :LOL:

Sorry, I wasn't trying to imply your "obsession" was a negative thing, quite the opposite! Getting tons of data points is the best way to actually improve things, and my hat is off to you sir for all the work you've done with your intake research. I once tried to do some data "monitoring" for IAT but got lazy and gave up :)

What are you using to tune? How are you monitoring A/F ratio? Any idea how your gas mileage has been affected by all your intake/power mods?

WD40 is fine. It does one thing great (displace water) and other things just okay. As a lube, pretty much everything else is superior. Aren't you curious to see if another product might be better?

You must have a ton of experience with electrical stuff, because I've never heard anyone express that sentiment regarding a wire tuck before. Impressive :LOL: Not something I've ever dreamed of attempting, but I do love the results.

It's clear you've done and are doing your homework on all these mods, and I look forward to more posts with more updates :) When's the SC going on?!

Oh, and sorry about the accident, that sucks. :(
 
Ouch is right. What are these things made out of anyway, plastic? :eek:

No need to apologize. I WASN'T YELLING OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT, NOR WAS I CUSSING UP A FUCKING STORM, NAAA MEEE! :rofl:

In the end, I'm glad the body shop I was going to go to got on my bad side before I dropped off the FX. It gave me time to reconsider what I was going to do and why. A large part of why I was considering some custom paint work (paint the lower plastic to match the body among other things) was the condition of the front end. I figured, it's gonna be there anyway, so I might as well. Now the front end is gonna get done for freeeee! Weeee! That's the kind of math Mike likes to do. I'll at least get the side mirrors done also cause they got a little rash as well. What are the chances of getting into a 5 mph collision that does just enough damage to necessitate not much more than cosmetic surgery, on the front of the car and it's not my fault? Ha!

Mileage went up. How much, I do not know for sure but after the headers, plenum mods and the last tune, it's back to normal-ish. I'm always in manny mode and shift far less than the auto would so I get worse than the nexy guy for sure. I get 150 + miles in a 1/2 tank with 99% city driving now.

Tuning software is Uprev.

Lots of info on this thread regarding reducing iat's, monitoring them and with the tool I use. Just got to dig a little. I did put together a "best of" thread to cut all the :poop: and get to the point but haven't finished it yet. It's onthemove'sccc (completed crap and comparibles) or something like that.

I have 0 experience with electrical. Cleaning up the bay the way I did it was simply rerouting wires and deleting hoses and brackets. Once you've got everything apart and sprawled out, the stress fades and it gets easier. Never did most of what I do before.

I don't know if I'll go the sc route. If I do, it'll be an HKS which is just enough without pushing a built auto transmission (approx 500hp/400tq) or a rear-mounted turbo. If I think I can get into the low 13's n.a., and I do think I can at this point pending a built 11 to 11.5 to 1 compression and cammed engine, then n.a. it is with a 125-150 shot for special occasions. 11.3ish to 1 compression, JWT s1 cams and another 100lbs off might be enough to get me there. 3.9 r&p front and back would seal the deal for sure.
My ultimate goal is to get this fat-assed FX down the strip in under 12 seconds. There's several ways to do it right. ? is whats the funnest and most interesting way to do so, all the while keeping it light and reliable.

Last thing I want to do is end up like this poor sob. I wonder what happened to this thing?
 
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Photos that the now believed "uninsured" kid took prior to the police arriving. You can see his reflection in pick 1. He lied to me and to the cop when presenting his insurance, but sent me these photos via email? WTF is wrong with the youth today. The uninsured/under insured portion of my policy will cover this without a deductible and it will not affect my standing or premium at all. If the reader doesn't have this type of insurance, I highly recommend it. It's mandatory in NC. Now the FX will have nasty Chevy Cruz all over it's bumper until the body shop does it's thing.

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wMDAwMC9hdHRhY2htZW50Lm91dGxvb2subGl2ZS5uZXRAODRkZjllN2YtZTlmNi00MGFmLWI0MzUtYWFhYWFhYWFhYWFhIn0.jpg

wMDAwMC9hdHRhY2htZW50Lm91dGxvb2subGl2ZS5uZXRAODRkZjllN2YtZTlmNi00MGFmLWI0MzUtYWFhYWFhYWFhYWFhIn0.jpg
 
I replaced the cam and crankshaft position sensors and figured I'd pull the kinetix plenum to make it easier and to bore the plenum out some more. The p0345 (driver side) had oil in the plug attached to the sensor but the passenger side and crankshaft sensors did not. The sensors are all clean, so the oil infiltration must've come from within and this oil is probably a tell-tale sign of failure or soon to be failure.
The air filter took a hit in the crash. The center section I added is by far the dirtiest part of the whole filter. The rest still looks new.
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Painted the shift knob trigger with black enamel and wrapped the tops of the steering wheel control trim pieces with some of the leftover vinyl wrap. I gotta get the FX clean in and out so it gets respect at the shop and figured I'd knock this shit out while I'm at it.
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The FX is heading to the body shop this week so I washed it. I even dried the damaged corner:cry:. Just couldn't manage to get the "Cruze" off.
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I think all will go well. Found a body shop with outstanding ratings, one that wasn't on my radar when I was looking months ago, prior to getting hit. They're gonna replace everything with oem parts, do the hood, blend the 1/4ers and paint the side mirrors.
Got a 2017 Edge Eco-boost Titanium as a rental. Not too shabby.
 
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These headlights are totally legit off Ebay through the seller from the link below. Original equipment. Brand new. $275 shipped. Body shop said so. :)
New OEM Infiniti FX35 FX45 Left HID Headlight Headlamp 2003-2008 26060-CG026 691965512969 | eBay

Good to know there's an inexpensive source for new replacements & the $ saved between the $1500 that both the body shop and insurance companies estimated and my $275'd one, my research paid off and the difference is being applied to taking care of the road rash on the hood, side mirrors and blending the fenders with very little coming out of my pocket. :D

The FX is stuck in the shop till next week. Brand new core support came in with one broken bracket. :poop: Brand f'n new $800 core support and it's already trashed. :mad:

This Ford Edge has the eco-boost 4 cyl. Total dog off the line, a total bore to drive, ugly sob but the interior is nice. The 1st generation body style is much better imo. The 1st gen Sport v6 tt eco-crap would've been fun. 2017 model and I don't think it's been washed since 2017.

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I came across an english bloke who's got custom itb's on his Z. A 2 year old link was left to Sasha Anis' race car. His version of a cold air setup for the itb's. The problem with this is one can have itb's, 6 at 57mm each as opposed to one 75mm but when they have to pull air through these long, restrictive tubes, what good are they?
The article reads that "...the experimental larger 57mm throttles have reduced peak power from 420 wheel horsepower to 385 wheel horsepower."
That sucks. Probably would be better off without these and vent the hood. I'd give these things a go if I stay n.a. + n2o but the only way to this it right is a sealed air box venting to a hood scoop.
Just thought I'd add this to my thread cause it's interesting and something I hadn't come across until tonight.

Sasha Anis Is Chasing Legends In His Nissan 350Z

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It's back. What a massive pita dealing with this body shop that's got all 5 star reviews. Each review was 5 stars. I find that so hard to believe but in the end the front end is as good as new. :) Hey, it only took'em 2 weeks and 2 days for not much more than a fender bender+ repainting the hood, side mirrors and blending the fenders. :eek:
I needed to mash the gas pedal to go anywhere in the Edge and after driving that bucket for 2 weeks, it's good to be back in the FX. I'm not sure how they got my modded t-rex grill to fit better than I did though:confused:. They even cut the bumper behind the grill the way I did and removed the rest of the spot welded bracket for the o.e. air box off the frame but then attempted to get me to pay $200 for the driver side wheel well trim that I reminded them that it needed to be replaced 4 f'n times. That :poop: did not fly.

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