Oil leak - valve cover gaskets?

That's normal imo. PCV on driver side for incoming air to crank case. I think it occurs when at wot but never cared enough about it to research it.
My thoughts were that on the passenger side where you've got the accumulation, oil might be seeping past the pcv/hose connection & if so, probably due to a pcv that needs to be replaced.
 
Will these kits increase fuel efficiency?
Not necessarily... I have the LMS intake which isn't made any more... I probably get 1 MPG better, but it when I first got it, it sounded so nice I always stomped on the gas which did the opposite... On the highway cruising, and with a clean filter, I'm sure it makes quite a difference... I've heard good things about the DRAGON intake, and it sure is pretty in the engine bay...
 
I finally got around replacing the valve covers and oil leak went away. Took me about 7 hours.
I didn't have torque wrench, so I tighten the plenum bolts with a rachet. After I put everything back together, I started the car and 5 min later found a coolant leak from the hose below the throttle body. I also noticed white smoke from the exhaust and water dripping. I'm thinking making the bolts snug with a rachet was not enough and this is causing coolant leaking into the chambers. Appreciate all your advice regarding the new issue. Car is 135k. Should I replace the metals gaskets or just tighten bolts to torque specs?
 
I finally got around replacing the valve covers and oil leak went away. Took me about 7 hours.
I didn't have torque wrench, so I tighten the plenum bolts with a rachet. After I put everything back together, I started the car and 5 min later found a coolant leak from the hose below the throttle body. I also noticed white smoke from the exhaust and water dripping. I'm thinking making the bolts snug with a rachet was not enough and this is causing coolant leaking into the chambers. Appreciate all your advice regarding the new issue. Car is 135k. Should I replace the metals gaskets or just tighten bolts to torque specs?
Got to have a torque wrench. You can always rent shit like that from autozone. Their wrenches might not be calibrated well but they should be close enough. I'd rent or buy t.w.'s for inch lbs (intake) and ft lbs (v.c.'s) then torque them shits down to the correct ft lbs and in the correct rotation per the FSM. Index of /FSM/FX/2003_FX45-35 Go to "idx" to locate the v.c.'s.
I personally would definitely not drive that thing until the issue fixed.
 
Got to have a torque wrench. You can always rent shit like that from autozone. Their wrenches might not be calibrated well but they should be close enough. I'd rent or buy t.w.'s for inch lbs (intake) and ft lbs (v.c.'s) then torque them shits down to the correct ft lbs and in the correct rotation per the FSM. Index of /FSM/FX/2003_FX45-35 Go to "idx" to locate the v.c.'s.
I personally would definitely not drive that thing until the issue fixed.

Do you think I need to replace the metal gaskets?
Car is parked in my house and will tackle this tomorrow, using wife's car today.
 
Do you think I need to replace the metal gaskets?
Car is parked in my house and will tackle this tomorrow, using wife's car today.
I would torque down the existing gaskets. You might, MIGHT be fine. Best case scenario you are and worst, you need new gaskets which isn't the end of the world. You'll want to replace the coolant and engine oil as well.
 
I would torque down the existing gaskets. You might, MIGHT be fine. Best case scenario you are and worst, you need new gaskets which isn't the end of the world. You'll want to replace the coolant and engine oil as well.

The coolant and oil replacement is because with the leak everything got contaminated?
 
The coolant and oil replacement is because with the leak everything got contaminated?
Yeah, unfortunately. I'm assuming the white smoke is coming from the exhaust tips. If the white smoke is coming off the exhaust manifolds or cats do to the coolant leak at the throttle body and not out of the exhaust tips at the back of the FX, then you just got to deal with that little leak and bleed the coolant system. No big deal. If it's coming out of the tips, check the engine oil and coolant reservoir and/or radiator for contamination.
If contamination, you'll have to remove the upper and lower plenums to get to the covers to torque them so you might as well pull the covers back off and clean all the mating surfaces well, including the gaskets before reinstalling them. I didn't think about having to pull the plenums to get to 1/2 the v.c. bolts.
You really won't know if what you did fixed the problem until you change the coolant and oil and drive around a bit, so do it right this time. Just a learning lesson.
 
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Yeah, unfortunately. I'm assuming the white smoke is coming from the exhaust tips. If the white smoke is coming off the exhaust manifolds or cats do to the coolant leak at the throttle body and not out of the exhaust tips at the back of the FX, then you just got to deal with that little leak and bleed the coolant system. No big deal. If it's coming out of the tips, check the engine oil and coolant reservoir and/or radiator for contamination.
If contamination, you'll have to remove the upper and lower plenums to get to the covers to torque them so you might as well pull the covers back off and clean all the mating surfaces well, including the gaskets before reinstalling them. I didn't think about having to pull the plenums to get to 1/2 the v.c. bolts.
You really won't know if what you did fixed the problem until you change the coolant and oil and drive around a bit, so do it right this time. Just a learning lesson.

Thanks for all the advice. Do you know what the torque specs are for the lower intake? I only see the upper specs.

Screen Shot 2018-03-10 at 9.20.21 AM.png
 
Removed everything and found coolant in the oil. The coolant in the reservoir and rad looks clean thou.
See photos for condition of the gaskets and surfaces, what do you think? Is the separation of the gasket normal?
Also I forgot to mention one of the connector clips is stuck, please see photos with comments.Stuck clip.png IMG_7824.jpg IMG_7816.jpg Gasket-1.jpg Gasket-2.jpg Gasket-3.jpg IMG_7830.jpg
 
Removed everything and found coolant in the oil. The coolant in the reservoir and rad looks clean thou.
See photos for condition of the gaskets and surfaces, what do you think? Is the separation of the gasket normal?
Also I forgot to mention one of the connector clips is stuck, please see photos with comments.View attachment 507708 View attachment 507709 View attachment 507710 View attachment 507711 View attachment 507712 View attachment 507713 View attachment 507714
So, coolant in oil but rad and res were spared. That's good. You must not have driven long enough for the t-stat to open before you figured out something was wrong. If you could drain your coolant via the block plug (s) that would be swell because would be keeping all that shit contained but if not, you might consider several coolant flushed with just distilled water prior to your 50/50% or 70/30 mix. Also, after you drain the oil, use cheap synthetic oil and a cheap filter, run that shit through for a day or 3 then change it again with the good stuff. See onthemoveMODS for specifics on shit like this.
The separation of the gasket is not normal. It might also be acceptable? I have this as well on the gasket between my upper and lower plenum due to fucking with all that far too much but in my case and setup, it makes no difference. No vacuum leak. In your case, I'd say you'll be fine but honestly, I think you've been through enough bullshit to then have to re-do this once AGAIN, right? I'd get new gaskets. I replaced the bolts on the transmission pan when I installed a shift kit only because the FSM gave instruction to do so whereas most probably do not, so there you go.
That green plug is beyond me. That is the plug that made me decide to remove my injector rails while tucking the engine bay wires. Fuck that plug! If you can do what you need to do without removing it, and you should be able to, I would leave it alone.
 
Here is a photo of the hose where the coolant was leaking.

View attachment 507730
That hose could be bypassed but you're trying to get everything back up and running. The hose might be a bit worn where it attaches to the t.b.. What you could do is make a clean straight cut and remove 1/2" to 1" of hose off the end. Just make sure you leave enough length and it should provide more bite.
 
Your intake is oil soaked which is typical. Interesting how some have two far cylinders that look like ass while mine alternates. You can see how ill fitting the oem gasket is in the last pic of the manifold by the 1/2 moon ring of oil. If you want to learn about odd shit like this, my thread's got what I like to think is some good info.
 
Put everything back together with the right torque specs and used the same gaskets. I replaced the clamp on the water hose and that stopped the leak. I haven't replaced the oil yet. Took the car for a 5 min drive and the check engine light came on! I did notice less smoke from the exhaust when I started the car and no smoke after the 5 min drive. Same wth the water drip, a few drops in the beginning and it looked dry after the 5 min drive. Will drive it again this morning to check again.

I also will replace the oil this morning with cheap stuff to flush any coolant residue. I'm not 100% sure if the issue is corrected but besides the check engine light the car seems to run as usual. I will take it to autozone to check on the code.
 
Put everything back together with the right torque specs and used the same gaskets. I replaced the clamp on the water hose and that stopped the leak. I haven't replaced the oil yet. Took the car for a 5 min drive and the check engine light came on! I did notice less smoke from the exhaust when I started the car and no smoke after the 5 min drive. Same wth the water drip, a few drops in the beginning and it looked dry after the 5 min drive. Will drive it again this morning to check again.

I also will replace the oil this morning with cheap stuff to flush any coolant residue. I'm not 100% sure if the issue is corrected but besides the check engine light the car seems to run as usual. I will take it to autozone to check on the code.
Good to hear. Just remember when you're driving you have water and coolant mixed in with your engine oil :eek:.
 
Replaced the oil, coolant looks good. Still see a few water drops from the exhaust. Could that be remaining coolant burning?
Once again thanks for all he help.
 
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