Oil leak - valve cover gaskets?

[StuLax18]

There are a lot of bolts and hoses and stuff that have to come loose so there are a lot of options for something to be installed wrong I would think. I know when I did mine I found a hose I had put back on, but forgot to put them clamp on.

What did you change from when you last had it running fine? Just those cam sensor o-rings?

 

[Jval]

I removed the air intake, plenums, coil packs and spark plugs to check the torque on the VCs. Lot's of stuff came off.
I found a new leak coming from the cam sensors so I pulled them out and replaced the o-rings.
When I put everything back together, I installed new spark plugs and carefully assembled everything back. I didn't check the gap because I thought the new ones were pre-gapped.
I also removed the both variable solenoids because I think the leak is coming from there. When I connected the wire to the sensor, the clip broke, still was able to plug it in but it feels kinda loose.

The only new parts are the o-rings and the spark plugs.

 

[Jval]

Can someone explain if I need to install the spark plugs or coil pack in a specific order?

 

[Jval]

Can this be the issue?
Should the coil pack seat and make contact with the metal tube?
Maybe the RTV is preventing the coil pack to make good contact with the spark plug?
Also the gap on my old spark plugs were all over the place ranging from 0.05 to 0.07.
The new ones are a little off also. One is at 0.038, one at 0.05 and 4 at 0.04. The service manual calls for 0.043. Adjust?
The last photo shows the old and new plugs.

 

[Jval]

I put back the old plugs and the car started right away. The only difference is I hear a tapping noise in the beginning and went away once the engine warmed up.

I did find something I think was the issue. As I was putting the old sparks, I noticed the torque was a lot less, I hand tighted the plugs and as I torqued to 18 ft/lbs, my wrench only went like 1/2 a turn.

When I put the new ones, I was using a different wrench and it went about 2 full turns. I'm thinking I torqued too much and the coils were not making good contact with the plugs.

 

[gto]

It looks like you used the same valve covers & tried the the refurb? I know you posted some repair ideas, but I thought you changed them out for new.

 

[onthemove]

I put back the old plugs and the car started right away. The only difference is I hear a tapping noise in the beginning and went away once the engine warmed up.

I did find something I think was the issue. As I was putting the old sparks, I noticed the torque was a lot less, I hand tighted the plugs and as I torqued to 18 ft/lbs, my wrench only went like 1/2 a turn.

When I put the new ones, I was using a different wrench and it went about 2 full turns. I'm thinking I torqued too much and the coils were not making good contact with the plugs.

Could be that the oldies had oil and gunk on the threads? I think technically one is supposed to use some sort of thread cleaning tool for this reason. Not me. Anyway, glad to see you got it figured out and on your own. Best way to do it imo. Once I read you had heard some interesting noises coming from your engine I thought "oh shit, he dun did it this time".

 

[Jval]

Can someone explain the torque specs for the plenums? Is it 9 ft/lbs or 52 inch/lbs?
The contradiction/confusion is for bolt/nut 1, 2, 17, 18 and maybe 9?

 

[onthemove]

9' lbs.

 

[Jval]

9' lbs.

So, on the upper plenum, bolts 1, 2, 9, 18 and the right side nut 17 are 9ft/lbs of torque even thou the installation instructions two pages after say 52 inch/lbs for all the bolts/nuts on the upper plenum? I've done 52 inch pounds for all the bolts on the upper plenum.

 

[onthemove]

Yeah, not sure where the illustration you posted came from (chilton's?) but the last number, the one in parenthesis, #9, that's 9 ft lbs. Some of the explanation in your illustration is blocked and I don't have access to the Infiniti FSM right now cause the higher up's at Nissan are a bunch of petty pricks and pulled the FSM access from nicoclub.com. Diiiiicks!
The Kinetix upper collector I have calls for 6' lbs because it's composite and that shit will crickety-crack jack! It's so weird watching the Kinetix move up and down when I rev the engine, as if the fucker's breathing. The lower is 9.
If you're afraid of over-tightening, just wait till you drive and you'll know if you need to add a few lbs cause you'll get a lean code.

 

[Jval]

Yeah, not sure where the illustration you posted came from (chilton's?) but the last number, the one in parenthesis, #9, that's 9 ft lbs. Some of the explanation in your illustration is blocked and I don't have access to the Infiniti FSM right now cause the higher up's at Nissan are a bunch of petty pricks and pulled the FSM access from nicoclub.com. Diiiiicks!
The Kinetix upper collector I have calls for 6' lbs because it's composite and that shit will crickety-crack jack! It's so weird watching the Kinetix move up and down when I rev the engine, as if the fucker's breathing. The lower is 9.
If you're afraid of over-tightening, just wait till you drive and you'll know if you need to add a few lbs cause you'll get a lean code.

I'm attaching the full pages from the service manual. I did 52 inch/lbs on all upper plenum bolts/nuts and car feels "ok" and I don't have any codes. The OBD shoes the following...what is it?. EVA and O2S show red.

I did notice my old spark plugs have a white crusty residue which I read is a sign of lean condition...?

 

[onthemove]

"If stud bolts were removed, install them and tighten to the specified torque below. 5.9 N·m (0.6 kg-m, 52 in-lb)"

"Stud bolts" is the focus. There are 2 of these.

 

[StuLax18]

I don't know if you have the full picture, but the white wrench, black surround logo is ft-lb, and the black wrench, white surround is in-lb.

 

[Jval]

I don't know if you have the full picture, but the white wrench, black surround logo is ft-lb, and the black wrench, white surround is in-lb.

View attachment 541092

These are the full pages.