Oil leak - valve cover gaskets?
- Thread starter Jval
- Start date
I'm thinking about draining the atf, (usually you get about 5 quarts out) and I will pour 5 brand new Valvoline quarts in, the remaining fluid in the transmission will be the nissan matic.
When you started using Valvoline, did you mix them? did you experience issues or any difference?
onthemove
Member
- Car
- 2003 FX35 AWD
- Name
- Michael
When I added Valvoline I experienced a HUGE difference but that was because I installed a shift kit. I was able to replace 7 quarts at that time because the valve body came out. The existing fluid was also Valvoline synthetic done by Goodyear less than 2 years prior. Prior to that, it was Nissan fluid.
The valvoline can be used in the transmission, transfer case (awd) and the power steering. There are others.
My transmission feels bullet proof and shifts like a fucking bat out of hell.
The valvoline can be used in the transmission, transfer case (awd) and the power steering. There are others.
My transmission feels bullet proof and shifts like a fucking bat out of hell.
- Car
- 2007 FX35 RWD
When you did the valve covers previously did you put the RTV sealant in the spots mentioned in the service manual? Sounds like that might be where your leak is.
Exactly, that's where the leak is now, the 2 front/outside corners (both sides). I did use RTV but I think I applied too much.
- Car
- 2007 FX35 RWD
I was pretty annoyed by the time I got to that point so I just slabbed some on there and hoped it worked. I did the tighten until it starts to move out, then wait a bit before torquing down. Did I read that you didn't torque it down? I know the service manual has specific torque sequences so maybe that makes a difference enough to cause a leak.
Well there's an old name I haven't seen in a while... ... ...
I first rented a torque wrench from autozone and I broke a bolt using it. I din't trust the wrench anymore so I snugged everything by hand using the service manual sequence. So, you are correct, I didn't torque the valves to specs for fear of breaking the bolts, I only torqued the plenums. I will re-do it in a couple of weeks.
onthemove
Member
- Car
- 2003 FX35 AWD
- Name
- Michael
If you use permatex grey, apply it then snug the bolts down until a little squishes out. Let it sit for an hour then torque. Failure to do this part might be why I've read about leaks after having done everything else correctly. Instructions on the tube.
- Car
- 2007 FX35 RWD
Hopefully that will fix the issue. I wonder if the gasket could have come dislodged somehow? That was my biggest concern. I actually put some drops of silicone to hold it into the cover, and then used painters tape to hold it on while I put the cover into position, and pulled the tape out after. Unfortunately I was dumb and put the tape across where the spark plug holes were so I had to alter it a bunch. I don't think I've seen any leaks though so I'll assume it went well enough. I might should double check now that it's been a few weeks though just to be safe.
- Car
- 2007 FX35 RWD
I read a bunch of different takes (elsewhere, not here) on how to use that stuff. Some people said apply, let dry for an hour, then tighten. Others said tighten immediately. I think I followed the service manual like you said and tightened until I saw the sealant start to leak out, then waited to torque later. I used the Permatex Ultra Black fwiw. I think Nnaji recommended it when we were talking about the oil pan gasket.
The directions from permatex say this, but this is a little different since for the valve covers you're just dropping some in a corner:
- Apply a continuous and even bead of silicone to one surface, surrounding all bolt holes. Remove excess with knife at once. Assemble parts immediately. Do not squeeze out silicone by over tightening bolts. Re-torque will not be necessary.
- Silicone dries in 1 hour, and fully cures in 24 hours, at 70˚F - 50% relative humidity. Allow more time in cold weather.
To me, it makes sense to do the slight tighten, because then the silicone can level itself and you know it should be sealed fully, then tightened down once it's dried and it will create a more effective seal.
onthemove
Member
- Car
- 2003 FX35 AWD
- Name
- Michael
The perm. ultra grey calls for a 1 hour wait prior to torquing then a 24 hour wait before use. I've never had to use gasket maker on anything other than intake components which are much more forgiving than oil or coolant. When fluids are retained without leaks, that's the real test as to whether you did the job right or not.
JVAL, if you applied too much, I think you'd still be alright as far as leaks are concerned. It's got to be something else.
JVAL, if you applied too much, I think you'd still be alright as far as leaks are concerned. It's got to be something else.
I see. I remember applying permatex and right away started torquing the bolts. I thought it had to be tight before it dried.
I used the painters tape also and the gasket stayed in place. I will use silicone next time.
I think a combination of using the right torque and waiting for the rtv to settle according to instructions. Do you all think I can use the same cover gasket or should I get new ones?
By the way, thanks everyone for all the great advice.
onthemove
Member
- Car
- 2003 FX35 AWD
- Name
- Michael
Instructions are often important. As dudes, we tend not to care for them.
onthemove
Member
- Car
- 2003 FX35 AWD
- Name
- Michael
I would consider why the leak started in the first place. If you have more $ then time, just buy new shit as what I would do or should I say try to do might not work. I would try this because I would use this opportunity to paint the valve covers.
I would;
- remove ALL the oil from the mating surfaces on the heads, valve covers and the gaskets
- clean all the same areas with brake cleaner (applying it to a rag, then to the individual surfaces)
- read the instructions on the perm. and apply the suggested amounts to both sides of the gasket
- the perm. should hold the gasket in place while I installed the cover and tightened the bolts. If I couldn't get the bolts tight enough by hand, I'd use a ratchet to snug them until perm. started to show all around the valve cover.
- take notice of the time then move on to the other side and repeat the above steps
- after an hour has passed, get the first side torqued down and wait the full hour for the 2nd side
I went back to read through some of the older posts. You bought new valve covers then? They didn't come with gaskets? Huh. Unless you wanna risk having to go through this process again, you might consider new gaskets.
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