HOW TO: Changing Transmission Fluid

According me the reason of flushing this hose is to remove any debris/sludge from the cooler.
In the how-to it was mentioned that the oil came from the hose that was disconnected from the cooler.
That means that hose is the supply to the cooler but as i just read in the manual the return hose from the cooler needs to be disconnected.
So this hose must be connected somewhere on the tranny.
If you take that return hose of from the tranny, you flush the cooler.
And in that way i can understand the meaning of this strange procedure.
 
So let me get this straight.

My 04,FX35 is on ramps in order to get the bucket under the radiator to catch old tranny fluid.

Start car and as I'm filling with the new $10.45 per qt of ATF I'm also draining the old ATF.

Once the drained fluid reaches my 10qt mark on the bucket I pinch it off. Finish filling with the remainder of the new ATF.

Reconnect the radiator lines and check Trans fluid levels.

All should be fine

Right??
:tup:
 
sorry, i meant remove 6 and add 6. don't shock the tranny with almost new oil in its entirety.
 
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Thanks Bleedingsujit. Though I have bought the ATF, I'm hesitant to do this procedure. I Think I'll take it in for this service.
 
I had my tranny fluid changed last month. Me and my buddy did it with the car on the hoist. We used the drain plug on the tranny oil pan. Drained out about 4~6 qts. Then we filled another 4 ~ 6 qts back to the oil pan (depending on how much you drain out). The turn on the engine, with the brake on, shifting from P to R, to D, then D to R to P, each gear stays about the 20 secs to let the new fluid to mix out with the old fluid. Then we did the process again. After that test drive the car in manual mode for about 10 mins. Then measure the fluid level. If not enough, then top out from the tranny dip stick tube with a thin tube funnel.

I do my tranny fluid change about every 30k miles. The car is running fine, no issue with the tranny.
 
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308cal said:
So let me get this straight.

My 04,FX35 is on ramps in order to get the bucket under the radiator to catch old tranny fluid.

Start car and as I'm filling with the new $10.45 per qt of ATF I'm also draining the old ATF.

Once the drained fluid reaches my 10qt mark on the bucket I pinch it off. Finish filling with the remainder of the new ATF.

Reconnect the radiator lines and check Trans fluid levels.

All should be fine

Right??
:tup:
Click to expand...

I did mine as the diy and did 6 qts. 6qts is what the nissan dealership said they drain and fill when i was picking up s-matic.
 
Just make sure you disconnect the return line from oilcooler to the tranny, as only then you are flushing the oilcooler.
That is the reason why it is so complicated, any debris most likely gets stuck in there and then you give it the chance to come out.

And i don't believe that the tranny will care about a complete fill of new oil.
Why it will get a "shock" from new oil as this oil is specially for this gearbox?:confused.:
 
WietseFX35 said:
Just make sure you disconnect the return line from oilcooler to the tranny, as only then you are flushing the oilcooler.
That is the reason why it is so complicated, any debris most likely gets stuck in there and then you give it the chance to come out.

And i don't believe that the tranny will care about a complete fill of new oil.
Why it will get a "shock" from new oil as this oil is specially for this gearbox?:confused.:
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Slippage issues.
 
Wow, it's been awhile since I last visited this thread. And i think draining from the pan and filling is the best way to go. At least I don't need to have the car running plus i can do it all by myself without any yelling. However, if an extra hand is available, i'd probably do the pan drain/fill first and then do this DIY too. :tongue (2):

fxlr8 said:
This sounds like the best and easiest way to do it...

quoted from g35driver:


I am overdue for this.
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White_Hair said:
I had my tranny fluid changed last month. Me and my buddy did it with the car on the hoist. We used the drain plug on the tranny oil pan. Drained out about 4~6 qts. Then we filled another 4 ~ 6 qts back to the oil pan (depending on how much you drain out). The turn on the engine, with the brake on, shifting from P to R, to D, then D to R to P, each gear stays about the 20 secs to let the new fluid to mix out with the old fluid. Then we did the process again. After that test drive the car in manual mode for about 10 mins. Then measure the fluid level. If not enough, then top out from the tranny dip stick tube with a thin tube funnel.

I do my tranny fluid change about every 30k miles. The car is running fine, no issue with the tranny.
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I'm gona try it his way and see how it goes.
 
So if you drain the fluid from the plug how much will you need to put in there? Same amount as drained or a bit more?
 
If you drain from the plug, i dont think it requires the engine running, right?? And that's why I prefer this method than draining it from the "hose".

I just drained/refilled tranny oil in my accord. My method is - use a bucket to measure how much I drained and then filled it up the same amount, then drove it a bit and checked the dip stick, topped it off if needed. :sluggish:

Also, remember clean off all drain plug!!


Bklynjohn718 said:
Gotta fill and check (add or not add) with the engine running.


Sent from my iPhone
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Hey guys, im wondering if you guys had issues after changing the tranny fluid. Basically the mechanic drained from the plug and added to appropriate level, got the oil from the dealer. I changed it around 62k and now i have 73k. My downshifting is not smooth anymore, rough shifting under 50mph and the car jolts forward. Some say dont touch the tranny fluid, some say do. Im starting to think if i should of changed it at all... Hmm i havent really abused the car to shift this way...
 
If this has something to do with the change of your tranny oil, you probably should have seen this happening 10k ago. My guess is that you should drain and refill it again (since this method only changes out part of the old oil, you actually need to repeat this for a few times in order to get most of the old oil out), and see if that helps. Like a member said on here earlier - if you still have the issue after this change, you might need a professional "flush", but you should still take it into a shop for diagnosis first. :ninja:

Dracula said:
Hey guys, im wondering if you guys had issues after changing the tranny fluid. Basically the mechanic drained from the plug and added to appropriate level, got the oil from the dealer. I changed it around 62k and now i have 73k. My downshifting is not smooth anymore, rough shifting under 50mph and the car jolts forward. Some say dont touch the tranny fluid, some say do. Im starting to think if i should of changed it at all... Hmm i havent really abused the car to shift this way...
Click to expand...
 
So just to do drain from plug and fill I'll need 3 qts, but buy 4 just in case correct?
 
I would definitely get more, like 6-10Qt at least. Keep in mind that drain/refill is supposed to be repeated 2 or 3 more times between 1000 miles, in order to change out as much old oil as it can. If you want to do it one time and you get an extra helper, then like an earlier post stated, drain the pan first and then do the drain the hose w/ engine running. Either way, you should have about 10Qt standing by :alien:

:balanced:

sir21 said:
So just to do drain from plug and fill I'll need 3 qts, but buy 4 just in case correct?
Click to expand...
 
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