FWIW, it wouldn't fit my '03 and I don't even see one listed in the SM.
Whoop, there it is at Rock.
PARTS AUTHORITY Part # 123710
JATCO: 5 SP RWD/AWD RE5R05A Transmission
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HOW TO: Changing Transmission Fluid
- Thread starter shralp
- Start date
Whoop, there it is at Rock.
PARTS AUTHORITY Part # 123710
JATCO: 5 SP RWD/AWD RE5R05A Transmission
bullfrog23414
Member
- Car
- FX35
Fair enough. It was one of those deals where I saw that the part was available when i was surfing the Rock, so it got me thinking whether or not it needed to be done.
So if there is a filter or screen or whatever, how is it that it never needs to be changed? You'd think it would eventually clog up or something.
- Car
- 2017 QX70S
- Name
- Andy
There is one in there, but its a maintenance free part. Here are a few pic of the filter. I did the transgo shift kit when the car was about 100,000 miles and filter is clean.
Top side of the fliter/screen.
Bottom side of the filter with the pan removed.
Valve Body.
Top side of the fliter/screen.
Bottom side of the filter with the pan removed.
Valve Body.
Attachments
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I read this whole thread and as stated a couple of times here it seems like the consensus is somewhat split. I just hit the 30,000 mile mark a few weeks ago, so if I was going to do anything at all with this type of mileage, should I be doing a drain and fill 2 or 3 times with a cylce from P through D and a short drive of X amount of miles in between each drain and fill? Also what would X amount of miles be if this is the way to go? I've noticed a slight difference in shifting lately so I'm wondering if this may help.
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bullfrog23414
Member
- Car
- FX35
Thanks for the pics. That's exactly what I was looking for.
Fire0nic3FX
Member
The 2nd gen is much different than the 1st gen because of being the 7 speed. The transmission fluid is a sealed unit meaning you need to take it to the dealer where they use a machine to change it. There is a technical service bulletin on it. Also consult III plus is needed. The fluid almost must be at a specific temperature before it can be drained. On the 2nd gen there is also no fill plug in the engine bay because its sealed.
And FYI its very expensive it costs $330-$350 using oem Matic S fluid.
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Figures it would be that way for the 2nd Gens. Guess when I go in for my 30, 000 mi service in a few weeks I will inquire. I drive too hard not to stay on top of that. Thanks A.
I did mine today, I figured a better way (i guess) to get most of the old fluid out and here it is:
1) jack up the front wheels, remove the under engine cover to access the connections of the supply and return tubes to the cooler .
2) remove the dip stick, get under the car and undo the drain plug, keep it draining, typically you should collect 4 to 5 liters.
3) disconnect both supply and return tubes and keep them draining, you should collect 1 to 1.5 liters more.
4) blow compressed air into both supply and return lines, you should see more oil coming out from the AT drain hole.
5) blow compressed air into the cooler using the supply side, you should get some oil coming from the return line.
6) leave the car as it is for 1/2 hour for maximum drainage.
7) if you measure what you have collected, it should be between 6 and 7 liters (my case was 6.5 liters).
8) prepare the same amount of fresh fluid, put the drainage plug back on and tighten it well. Reconnect supply and return lines.
9) fill up the transmission with the fresh fluid up to only 6 liters.
10) start the engine, shift gears several times.
11) stop the engine, check the fluid level, and add if necessary and check again till the fluid level is on mark. It is good to start with only 6 liters and add afterwards, rather than putting more and finding out later that you put too much, then you will have to get under the car and disconnect the return line and let it drain.
10) put the under engine cover back on, clean up the mess and you are done.
Sent from my iPad
1) jack up the front wheels, remove the under engine cover to access the connections of the supply and return tubes to the cooler .
2) remove the dip stick, get under the car and undo the drain plug, keep it draining, typically you should collect 4 to 5 liters.
3) disconnect both supply and return tubes and keep them draining, you should collect 1 to 1.5 liters more.
4) blow compressed air into both supply and return lines, you should see more oil coming out from the AT drain hole.
5) blow compressed air into the cooler using the supply side, you should get some oil coming from the return line.
6) leave the car as it is for 1/2 hour for maximum drainage.
7) if you measure what you have collected, it should be between 6 and 7 liters (my case was 6.5 liters).
8) prepare the same amount of fresh fluid, put the drainage plug back on and tighten it well. Reconnect supply and return lines.
9) fill up the transmission with the fresh fluid up to only 6 liters.
10) start the engine, shift gears several times.
11) stop the engine, check the fluid level, and add if necessary and check again till the fluid level is on mark. It is good to start with only 6 liters and add afterwards, rather than putting more and finding out later that you put too much, then you will have to get under the car and disconnect the return line and let it drain.
10) put the under engine cover back on, clean up the mess and you are done.
Sent from my iPad
- Car
- 2007 FX35 AWD
Nice write up and cool idea about the compressed air into the lines.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 2
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 2
Hello everyone!
New to infinitiscene-just bought a 04 FX35 with 54k
FIRST OF ALL THANK YOU FOR THE WRITE UP ON THE THREAD. As I read everything I could about a transmission fluid flush/drain blah blah blah, the responses for this post were VERY HELPFUL FOR ME SO HERE IS MINE!!!
Last night did a drain out of the bottom of the transmission pan (19mm bolt) let it drain, about 3.5 literes. When I was checking my level it was registering VERY HIGH even though I dont believe anything has been done to the fluid (it was hot from driving to). Regardless I only put 3 back in through the transmission fluid dipstick thingy, and can feel an immediate difference in shifting!! Also threw in a K&N drop in last night (hardcore i know right?) Checked the level, still registering a little high? but is shifting really well! Will probably do another one of these when I change my oil next time, and once more at next oil change.
New to infinitiscene-just bought a 04 FX35 with 54k
FIRST OF ALL THANK YOU FOR THE WRITE UP ON THE THREAD. As I read everything I could about a transmission fluid flush/drain blah blah blah, the responses for this post were VERY HELPFUL FOR ME SO HERE IS MINE!!!
Last night did a drain out of the bottom of the transmission pan (19mm bolt) let it drain, about 3.5 literes. When I was checking my level it was registering VERY HIGH even though I dont believe anything has been done to the fluid (it was hot from driving to). Regardless I only put 3 back in through the transmission fluid dipstick thingy, and can feel an immediate difference in shifting!! Also threw in a K&N drop in last night (hardcore i know right?) Checked the level, still registering a little high? but is shifting really well! Will probably do another one of these when I change my oil next time, and once more at next oil change.
Checking the AT level can be tricky and got me confused first time I changed mine, looking at the manual there are certain steps that needs to be strictly followed to get a correct reading and avoid misleading ones. For example, see the note under point # e below:
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---------- Post added at 09:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:39 PM ----------
I was previously checking the level when the engine is off, the gauge was in normal attachment position
, I was getting around 3 inches higher than the hot range, once I did the above I got around 1/2" higher than the hot range, I repeated the steps several times to confirm and all were identical.Sent from my iPad
