I see BLUE!!!!

shralp said:
Those sticks each have 3 SMD's around them, right on the circuit board.
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Oke thanks, thought that i saw some sort of lightning from within :confused:

Pupp said:
Now that I recently learned of the reasoning behind the Infiniti amber I do appreciate it a little more. At least they didn't just pic one of the ugliest colors for no reason I guess.
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+2 Such a remark also asks for the rest of the information on why their choice was this amber. Probably because it gave the most " relaxed " light for your eyes....:nerd:
 
You guys should check out this website: www.farnell.com

I've ordered and received there cataloque off nearly 4000 Pages....!!
Everything is noted there size , volt , lumination , etc....

I wanted to make an order just now put were troughn off teh site due to maintanence. Just when i almost finsihed my order :confused:

You can search on the website by size etc.... and buy per minimum of just 1 or 5.

Only things now needed are the twist lock bulbs and the led strip used for the cauges.

The small leds behind the Radio are 1.2 mm but with the connectors on it can be 1.6 but i think they are the 0603 the other guys were doubting about.
Am going to order some to see what they do. Also you have different iluminations ( Brightness ) wich i need to sort out. To weak will not give enough light....too strong will need sunn glasses :cool:

Good luck...!!
 
I have a week vacation coming up and planning on doing light upgrade..for my tach and speendometer, i'm thinking of leaving in the original bulbs instead of replacing them with LEDs and removing the orange film and putting in a dif colored film.now for the stereo buttons i will have to change them to dif colored LEDs all together... Can someone help me out with a list of exactly everything i need from A-Z in order to complete this job. What LED's do need and tools for example what kind of solder do i need what type of solder wire, ect... thank you..
 
Waleedalot said:
I have a week vacation coming up and planning on doing light upgrade..for my tach and speendometer, i'm thinking of leaving in the original bulbs instead of replacing them with LEDs and removing the orange film and putting in a dif colored film.now for the stereo buttons i will have to change them to dif colored LEDs all together... Can someone help me out with a list of exactly everything i need from A-Z in order to complete this job. What LED's do need and tools for example what kind of solder do i need what type of solder wire, ect... thank you..
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What you are asking is what several guys here also asked before including myself ,but unfortunatly no one is able to say that exactly.
I'm working on this for over 2 weeks now and have many many leds here already, from wich i can throw half away when i'm done i gues :err:

Point is that you have several things you have to look at. Shralp already helped us out by mentioning some sizes. Like the PLCC-4 wich are behind your non tech lcd display.
These werent't so difficult.
BUT for example the PLCC-2's needed for the radio and A/C board and the window switches etc... i found out you have in 2 variations. One with 4 connectors ( Like the plcc-4 ) and one with 2 connectors. I got the wrong onces first but you need the onces with 2 connectors.

Also the big issue in my opnion is wich Luminous Intensity you have to take. To high is to strong of a light and maybe to much. To little is to less of light. Also there i bought several to test it out.
If your going for the " Blue" color i found out that they often don't have such a high luminous intensity then for example Red or White colors.

As for the little led's on the radio & A/C circuit board i found out they have the size of the 0805 Led Casing. Shralp talked about 0603 also but these are to little.
Thing is i now have 0805's but i can't seem to get them running on the board :confused:
I'm picking this up with a friend of mine today and hopefully will get any further......

The Clock / Transmission lightning in the center console both and the cigaret lighter all have a twist lock bulb in them with a orange coating. At first i thought the easy way, take the coating of and put these rubber " Condoms" around the bulbs in blue, but this just doesn't give the effect your looking for.

I'm working on a complete list where everything is noted......location/ type of led / luminous intensity and part number from the website i've odered (www.farnell.com).
But am not there yet and probably will take a while as i'm doing the cluster at last.

If you are starting this up from scratch and have no idea and planning to do this within a week, i wouldn't suggest doing it. It is just to much sorting out. :frown:

Maybe you can help me sort out wich led to take for the 0805 in the radio, so we can exchange information first :tup:

Or maybe rookie can ask the texas guy if he is willing to sell them seperatly, as i find it a too big of a risk to ship my circuitboards overseas.....
 
there is also another way to adjust the intensity of the bulb. i haven't looked at this example personally but i know from my line of work, and from my previous ride. if you follow the traces on the board from the LED, you will surely encounter a resistor. this resistor is what is really setting the current through your LED, which controls the brightness of the LED. make this resistor larger would provide you less current, and less light output, making this resistor smaller obviously provides more current and more light from your LED.
 
gchristopher9 said:
there is also another way to adjust the intensity of the bulb. i haven't looked at this example personally but i know from my line of work, and from my previous ride. if you follow the traces on the board from the LED, you will surely encounter a resistor. this resistor is what is really setting the current through your LED, which controls the brightness of the LED. make this resistor larger would provide you less current, and less light output, making this resistor smaller obviously provides more current and more light from your LED.
Click to expand...

I think i have a too low intesity right now on those 0805's but what i do not understand is that when connected right they still should go on even when it is just less light they still have to do it.
Now mounted a plcc2 in blue wich is much bigger just to try it out. Barely couldn't solder it but it does work and has an higher intensity then the 0805's i have.
Point is that these PlCC2 won't fit in the area's around the volume and channel button's :embarrassed: otherwise i just have taken those.
 
raymond said:
I think i have a too low intesity right now on those 0805's but what i do not understand is that when connected right they still should go on even when it is just less light they still have to do it.
Now mounted a plcc2 in blue wich is much bigger just to try it out. Barely couldn't solder it but it does work and has an higher intensity then the 0805's i have.
Point is that these PlCC2 won't fit in the area's around the volume and channel button's :embarrassed: otherwise i just have taken those.
Click to expand...

they have polarity (anode and cathode) are you sure they are in right?
 
gchristopher9 said:
they have polarity (anode and cathode) are you sure they are in right?
Click to expand...

Problem at hand ( i found out just now ) is that the Blue leds i have with the 0805 casing need a higher voltage then the circuit board is giving.
The board gives around 1.9 Volt and these led work at 3.5 Volt. I have what they call a POT meter here so i can use several voltages to see when it's starts to work. Some led like the PLCC2 i have need 3.5 but still work at 1.9 but unfortunaly these 0805's i have don't.

Am surching on the internet right now and even called Osram manufacture if they have something but can't seem to find any :frown:
 
ohhhh yea that didn't even occur to me. Red and Amber LEDs have a voltage drop of 2.0-2.5V while running at their rated current. Blues, Greens, and White LEDs run between 3.0 and 4.0V. Therefore they are not directly interchangeable. This goes back to what i was saying about the current set resistor that is in series with the LED. You would need to change this resistor value to drop less voltage, which would apply more voltage to the LED. your opening a huge can of worms with this project. especially when you get into swapping out all the others to match. people seem to think this is a one day project like a spring or strut swap, but in reality there is actual DEVELOPEMENT that has to be done for it to work properly. good luck my friend.
 
Finally a break true guys...!!

The 0805's i had DO work...!! :laugh: my neigbourn who helped me earlier this week was kinda impatiant and true in the towel too soon.
Problem is that you really need to solder them correct cause one little error and they just don't work. Also you have to sort out at each LED where the Catode is ( plus ) so you don't solder it the other way around.

I found out that all these leds have the catode at the left side if you look at them from above. But started at the volume button and these are different as 2 are mounted vertical in stead of horizontal.

Only doubt i have and do not understand very well is the following:

We had a multi meter to messure the voltage given true the leds. The OEM orange leds on the circuit board give a +/- 1.9 Volt.
The new leds i have work at 3.5 volt as i mentioned before and with the pot meter we also have we messured that they do not work at 2 volt.
BUT when we mounted them on the circuit board and got them running we messured them again and the board/led now gives 2.8 - 2.9 Volt in stead of the prior 1.9 Volt.....:ehh:

We haven't change anything on the resistors or such but don't understand it either. My friend tells me it isn't that big of a deal,but i want to make sure as i do not want my board to blow or................

Any ideas anyone...?? Do these resistors have some sort of margin in wich they adjust the voltage needed by the Led...??

Strange deal....but they do work....!!! :tup:
 
my advice is this. find the resistor in series with the LED that you are running. measure the voltage across THAT. then turn the board off and measure the resistance. Voltage = Current * Resistance. This will let you figure out what current you have running through your LED. double check the spec (datasheet) and make sure it is rated to handle this much current. Then, as a safety check, calculate power dissipated in that resistor. Power = V*I. You also need to know what package that resistor is, most likely 1206, which is rated for 1/8 of a watt. Make sure you do not exceed this rating as it will surely fail (somewhat catastrophically) at some point.
 
In your opninion Christopher will there be any issues when i just keep it like this...??

I guess your right about the board,maybe has something to do with the lights being able to Dim as well.
Honestly i'm not that technician to sort all of that out. Maybe my friend can though,will lett him take a look at it tommorow when we pick this up again.
 
ok so i would at least do this. measure the voltage across the LED. look on the datasheet, and there should be a current VS voltage plot. make sure that at the voltage you measure you are not running an obscene amount of current. Then, with the board running. feel around on all the resistors, and make sure none of them are getting hot. at least then you would have put some effort into making sure things are safe.
 
so how could you measure the current without removing the led & putting the meter in line with the load? also, what would actually limit current, I thought that the resistor would limit the voltage & the current, is it possible the resistor can limit it to the correct voltage but allow too much current to flow? I've always thought that current wasn't regulated externally, & that the load itself will determine the current draw...
 
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