turbocad's custom fx

that's a 5 speed, like I said there dirt cheap & available everywhere, can even get them for less than his opening bid, that's why I picked one up too... I know of at least 2 others that I could get for ~$300 each... the 5 speeds aren't bad really, gonna see what can be done to convert that one too, realistically they would be the way more practical way for a manual awd conversion because there cheap & available

the 6 speed getrag is the one that is very rare & very expensive, but that's the ultimate gt r tranny. there sought after even by the r32 & r33 owners, to convert from the 5 speed to the 6 speed close ratio getrag unit. if you ever see a 6 speed getrag awd for a reasonable price, that would be worth grabbing though, but there extremely hard to find & complete with transfer case it will be around 10X the price of a 5 speed or more :embarrassed:
 
Sorry if I'm off topic -- what about the tranny the volvo S60 R uses, I think they have both an AWD 6 speed manual and 6 speed automatic.

I'm learning a lot from this thread... well any thread that Turbo starts.
 
never looked at the volvo trannies tbh, I'm also finding out that the getrag v160 was not only used in the r34 skylines & the twin turbo supras, but was also used in an m5?? haven't found too much info on that but a few references to that at least... either way though, only nissans version had the added attesa awd unit, others were all just rwd

---------- Post added at 12:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:22 AM ----------

I looked into the Haldex AWD that volvo uses, it's used on other cars too, including vw & audi, but I can't find any indications that it would handle big power really. it's a very complicated system, awesome torque split design, electronic control... honestly to fit this to an fx would be impossible, it to uses a transverse design from what I'm gathering...
 
M5's eh? Guess I've driven one then. I like it actually. Don't know about the s60R just because those are kinda rare and may not be as strong. They are manual and AWD though.
 
the silver was cooler, not gunna lie, you could have still tinted and blacked out the chrome to create the mean look ur probably looking for
 
Silver? Are you referring to the beast when before it was bought to life?

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I think a color change is the least of turbo's worries. hehehe
 
ha, I guess there is a reason why the silver is the most common color, it would seem that it is the most popular, meaning that more people like/choose that color over all the others obviously... when I first got my fx that was what I hated about the color. it seemed that at least 3 out of 5 fx's I seen was that silver... honestly, after owning an fx for a while & seeing the silvers done in different ways of customized I can now say that I do like the silver, but back then I couldn't wait to change the color :smile (2):
 
turbocad6 said:
ha, I guess there is a reason why the silver is the most common color, it would seem that it is the most popular, meaning that more people like/choose that color over all the others obviously... when I first got my fx that was what I hated about the color. it seemed that at least 3 out of 5 fx's I seen was that silver... honestly, after owning an fx for a while & seeing the silvers done in different ways of customized I can now say that I do like the silver, but back then I couldn't wait to change the color :smile (2):
Click to expand...

And having your own paint booth makes such a choice a bit more easy also doesn't it...?? :wub:
I would have a new color every season i think :tonguey:
 
well in a way it helps, but honestly doing this stuff is not free even for me... it winds up costing me ~25-30% less than it would cost anyone else, that's approx profit margin.. still have to pay overhead, employees, materials & stuff... plus time spent on my car is time that could have otherwise have been spent on a profit making job, so no matter how you look at it still a loss & still a big expense, but yeah, I do at least get it done at wholesale/cost :tonguey: so a $7,500 job only cost me ~$5k in actual total cost all things factored in... still far from free :smile (2):

this is another reason why, when my headers got fucked up, I couldn't simply pull the fx back into the shop, pull the engine again & just start over, the cost was high the first time around & I couldn't afford to tie up my bay for another month or so to redo it all over... just because you do something yourself doesn't mean it doesn't still cost a lot to do...
 
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so true but people somtime think we get it all for free. But it does have it's advantages sometimes :wub:

In the end i gues it is just how fanatic you are and how much money you ar ewilling to spend......ohhh and in your case......Time also :laugh:
 
Have you seen this article turbo? CLICK It's about an awd Z that JUN Racing built.
Here's an interesting tidbit that pertains to your project:

...At this point the chassis was being prepared. The red donor 350Z was stripped down to bare metal and work began on the spot welding and various modifications needed to fit the custom 4WD layout. The engine was dropped into its new custom mounts, as it needed to be in place to make sure all the other drivetrain components would fit perfectly. The sump of the VQ was taken from the JDM-only M35 Stagea, which is available with 4WDsystem and a VQ engine. This was the perfect choice as it came with everything needed, diff housing and drive shafts. Cusco was called in to make up a one-off LSD for the front end and everything was sealed up and ready to go. A V35 Skyline (Infiniti G35) front subframe was used and modified to fit and clear the suspension parts. JUN made custom adjustable upper arms, which were fitted to Y50 Fuga (Infiniti M35/45) aluminium hubs and lower arms. The hubs allowed space for the driveshaft while custom mounts were made for the dampers. The rear diff-housing was fitted with a Cusco LSD and bolted to the custom built subframe. Suspension layout was changed with custom and adjustable lower arms made up and new mounting points for the dampers, which were made by ZEAL to JUN’s own specification. The factory 6-speed transmission was relegated to the trash and replaced by a Hollinger 6-speed sequential which was in turn fitted to a BNR32 GT-R transfer case (with ATTESA-ETS system). This has the job of sending drive to the front differential via a thin propeller shaft, while the main propeller shaft was taken from an M35 Stagea. ...
Click to expand...
 
hey man, thanks a lot for that link, yes I've seen it. you have to realize there that your probably looking at well over $100k into that z build not even including the original z itself... that hollinger 6 speed is ~$12k alone for just the gearbox & is really more of a racing unit, not so great on the street... for ~$14k you could also get an os giken sequential 6 speed too which is a bit more street able... these options are just way over my budget. the stock 6 speed from the later stageas with the VQ #1 wouldn't do me any good because that's still the wrong bell housing for an HR motor & second of all from what I've read those 6 speeds aren't all that strong either... nothing like the getrag unit which ended with the r34 cars in 02...

for now I've put all the tranny stuff to the side. just having it & planning for it is a big help in reaching my goals for this car but I've got more than enough other things on my plate atm, I got the tranny to help my overall end result, not to wind up causing even more delays & distractions from my main primary goal of finishing my turbo build & getting it running, I really don't even want to touch the tranny until I get a good grip on everything else... probably won't even touch it till I get the thing running first.


also, as an update... I think from day one, when I first realized the headers I built were ruined, one of my big problems was in figuring out how the hell I'm going to possibly be able to rebuild headers like this again without being able to build them around the motor itself, like I did the first time... I mean at the time my motor was already fully installed & my car was all put back together & I even towed the car back home... I really thought the whole header nightmare was done & over with, headers are done...the first time I built them the motor went in & out of the car many times to build everything perfect & I positioned the turbo's with brackets, all lined up & symmetrical & where they would fit best in the engine compartment, then built the headers around the motor, I'm working in pretty tight clearances to get everything to clear & also keep everything symmetrical & lined up straight...

I knew I could never afford to put it back in the shop again, remove the whole engine again & then start from scratch... I tied up a bay in my shop for close to 2 months the first time & that was hustling through & just getting it done, was extremely hard for me & I was winding up pulling after midnights for weeks on end, simply couldn't redo all that...

I eventually figured I could build a jig to help duplicate these, so I did, I built a jig to locate the turbo head & the header flange & figured this, along with some measuring & eyeballing, I'd be able to duplicate them on the bench, then just test fit them on the engine in the car . sounded good & I didn't see much other choice but to attempt this, figured it should be doable...

well I now started to build my headers & let me tell you, it is absolutely impossible to get it really the same, ESPECIALLY considering the fact that now, I'm actually getting precise, square cuts... before was just a crude jagged chop saw cut, then grinded to the angle I needed for it to line up... but here I'm now trying to get all "proper" seams for better flow, not nearly as much "cheater" bends as I winded up with the first time, & have all nice & square joints... the cold saw with clamping jig insures I'm getting square cuts but now trying to do this with my jig was just turning into an impossible exercise in frustration.... I realized this past weekend that doing it with the jig I built is impossible.

since my header mishap & then thoughts of the tranny swap I have been on the look out for another spare motor, really my main intension for getting one was more towards facilitating the building of the tranny swap more than anything else, at that time I thought the jigs would be good enough to build the headers, but now, since I have found a spare motor anyway & the jig isn't working out as I had hoped, I now decided to take the spare engine I had all apart & bring that home, build it back together with the block, heads & front cover on a bench in my garage, & now, I can build them the right way, just like the first time, built right around the engine itself. I'm finally, after all this time, feeling confident & really good about this project again... it's been a year of frustration but I now finally think I really have what I need to do this & do it right... I'll be building brackets for the turbos right on that mock up motor then building the headers again, this time so much better than even the first time...

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I built new positioning brackets for the turbo's. since I'm starting from scratch I revised there location a little bit, moved them up & forward a little, will help correct a few things that I thought were less than ideal like downpipe to intake tube distance, also I decided to shoot my intake pipe straight over the top of the radiator instead of having a sharp 90* bend right into the turbo inlet, a bit higher will help that too...

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I've also changed the way I build the collectors a bit for a better merge

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I had to make a new jig for these slant cuts & I had to remake a new blade guard to allow the cold saw to cut deep enough without interfering

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