Oil leak - valve cover gaskets?

I've got the iridium ngk's. Infiniti claims 100k miles on the original platinum's but at around 85k they were trashed and all the gaps were off, some way off. The plugs are supposedly pre-gapped but there were discrepancies with the new iridiums right out of the box. You need a specific gap tool for the fragile iridium tip though, fyi. Some might say platinum for longevity and iridium or copper for performance.
 
Your Engine is stock, correct?
I would just stick with your owners manual on those plugs and what the engine came with when new. Your 2005 takes Platinum.

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Yeah, my engine is stock.
Also, is it true that I need to replace coil packs and spark plugs at the same time?
 
The coils do not get replaced during a plug change unless they’re malfunctioning and throwing codes. The computer is generally reliable in picking up on that and gives an engine check light if a problem. Misfire and rough idle can be a symptom of a bad coil. They only get removed to get to plugs and reinstalled once the new ones are in
 
Anyone here used aftermarket valve covers? What's the experience? Ebay sells VCs for $60, Amazon for $120.
 
gto said:
Dont do it. Those are shit. OEM only
Shop no further. This is the link:
OEM VQ35DE / HR Valve Covers & Gaskets Package, Z1 Motorsports

While your at it, change out these too cuz they are easy to get to with plenum off.
Z1 Silicone Crankcase Ventilation hose (Front PCV Crossover) $12.00
Z1 Silicone PCV Hose $10.00
Z1 Silicone DE Brake Booster Hose (Engine Side) $13.00
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I replaced the hoses when I changed the gaskets the first time, they broke when I pulled them off. I'm not familiar with the brake booster. What are the symptoms of a bad hose?
Also, why do you say the after market VCs are bad? Did you have a bad experience buying those?
 
That's another reason I mentioned the hoses. Hoses get stiff after some time. That's what causes their failure.
The $50 covers are made from cheaper more brittle plastic. the one's on ebay while different price on Amazon, I am betting they are the same part.
Not all plastic is equal . ;)
 
This is not my engine, I found this in another thread. Which hose is this? Anyone knows the part number?

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@Jval not sure if this is the right tube, but I found this for the Z: 47474CD000 and this was the diagram, it's the 447474 + A on the left.

470_A001.png

Then this for the FX that might be correct, but I'm not sure: 47471CG000

#10 in this pic, but it doesn't show the layout

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The part I'm not sure on is the Z diagram shows 2 hoses, but the FX one only one. Maybe if you don't see the second hose on the FX then that's a good sign, since from the pics it looks like the same system.
 
Update. Finally got around to re-do the gaskets. Got new valve cover gaskets and new spark plugs. As I started removing parts, I found oil coming from both variable timing solenoids (front of engine where I thought the VC was leaking) and the other leaks are coming from both camshaft sensors. I think the "valve cover leaks" are not from the covers because the oil is dripping below these 2 areas.

The o-rings from both cam sensors are hard as plastic so I'm getting 2 new o-rings tomorrow to replace these. I'm not sure why the solenoids are leaking but the metal gaskets look acceptable (see pics). When I first did the VC gaskets I remember not using torque specs for the solenoids when I put them back. Should I get new gaskets? The pics show front and back of the metal gaskets. Let me know what you all think.

Also, how do I remove the o-rings from the cam sensors? just break them?

Screen Shot 2018-05-13 at 9.47.00 PM.png Screen Shot 2018-05-13 at 9.38.00 PM.png Screen Shot 2018-05-13 at 10.12.57 PM.png Screen Shot 2018-05-13 at 10.12.44 PM.png
 
I'd carefully clean the area on the engine these gaskets will install onto, clean the mating surface of the solenoids and clean the gaskets. Torque them down to spec and see if they hold. There in an easy enough location that if they start to leak again, no big deal, replace the gaskets.
 
By the way, I also found some oil in one of the spark plug wells. I'm thinking about putting RTV to seal the well. Has anyone done this?

Here is a video - check at 45 secs.

Same guy, more details
 
Haven't done it but I would especially after seeing this vid. Guys got no reason to lie. Oil-free surfaces and the correct rtv is key I'm guessing. Save yourself some hundreds:D.
 
This is weird. Just finished putting everything back together. Changed spark plugs and the o-ring on both cam sensors.
I fired up the car en the engined rattled, sounded like everything was loose inside.
It ran for 3 seconds and I turned it off. I checked all the connections and hoses and everything looks ok. I tried to turn it on again and it didn't start.

I bought the spark plugs from autozone, nkg laser platinum but I didn't gap them because I thought they were pre-gapped.
Also in one of the solenoid connectors, the push clip broke. The connector plugs in but it feels a little loose.

Any ideas or similar experiences?

Tomorrow I will put the old spark plugs back in and will check the gap on the new ones.
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Any chance you plugged in the coil packs in the wrong order? I don't think it's likely because usually you can tell where each goes by the bends. I know on mine half the numbers had worn off but I knew where they went from the cables just lining up. Do you have a plenum spacer? I always worry about those inner plastic spacers coming loose. Just trying to think what might be rattling around.
 
When I removed the coil packs I put a tape and label them. Having said that, I've had previous miss fires due to the oil leaking into the spark plug well. The first time I bought a used coil pack from ebay and it worked perfectly. The second time, I swapped coil pack one and two and everything worked perfectly as well.

I don't have a spacer. When I first fired up the engine it really felt like something was loose.

Could it be the o-rings? the spark plug gap? or something else not tight to torque specs.

StuLax18 said:
Any chance you plugged in the coil packs in the wrong order? I don't think it's likely because usually you can tell where each goes by the bends. I know on mine half the numbers had worn off but I knew where they went from the cables just lining up. Do you have a plenum spacer? I always worry about those inner plastic spacers coming loose. Just trying to think what might be rattling around.
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