What did you do to your FX / QX70 today?

wow that looks awesome! Great mod great dogs! :top:

I think you should do the main beams next

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By the way what bulbs did you use for the coin holder and glovebox again? I know the type but which item?
 
They're so bright... do you have a link to the license plate bulbs?

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I see you posted it already lol
 
They're so bright... do you have a link to the license plate bulbs?

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I see you posted it already lol

If I used the 4 LED bulbs instead of the 1 LED bulb, I'm sure the rear of my whole car and the ground would have been lit up...not really what I'm after...same with the interior...just wanted the 5k look, not necessarily the brightness. Just happened that the 1 LED bulbs are bright as well, but you could go much brighter if you wanted with those 4 LED bulbs!
 
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Forgot to mention I'm doing some testing with the factory mood lighting system. Changing the amber colored LED in all 4 interior door handles to 5K white:

photo64x.jpg
 
These are the ones I have for my tail light, 6K color (my brightest so far):
///6143[/ATTACH]

I've tried these and they aren't brighter, for some odd reason:
///6144[/ATTACH]
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Forgot to mention I'm doing some testing with the factory mood lighting system. Changing the amber colored LED in all 4 interior door handles to 5K white:

photo64x.jpg

Awesome! Looking forward to your results! :top:

If you have pictures of what the mood lighting looks like taken apart in detail, I'm sure some iS folks would gear you to the proper way of hooking another LED bulb to it.

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These are the ones I have for my tail light, 6K color (my brightest so far):
///6143[/ATTACH]

I've tried these and they aren't brighter, for some odd reason:
///6144[/ATTACH]
///6145[/ATTACH]

do you have a link to shots of your tails?
 
Will do! One thing is for sure though and that is theres no plug and play solution for the factory mood lighting. If your wanting to change them there will be cutting and soldering involved.
 
The FX got the SES light this morning scared the crap outta me (any light on my gauges that aren't usually there always do ) haha
figured out it was just the gas cap on too tight
 
Gas cap too tight? I've heard of cel due to loose caps or not fully tighten but never over tighten... the whole reason why it clicks is to prevent it being too tight. Get new cars= more reasona for cel being on.
 
Installed BC coilovers...or at least got 1/3 of the way through. The rear springs are on, but unfortunately I couldn't get either rear shock off. The rear lower shock bolt was frozen on both sides. PB blaster didn't help and I sheared off two adapters when I tried my breaker bar (1/2" bar to 3/8" socket). Then for some dumb reason I pressed on and tried to use a regular socket w/ a 3 ft. cheater since I didn't have any other drivers. That resulted in stripping out the driver. So tomorrow I'm going to get a 1/2" drive 17mm socket and try again. I'm never buying a car from the NE again. Only 12K mi. in 2 years when I bought it, but ever bolt I've encountered under the car has been seized. I've broken so many tools it's not even funny; I suppose that's the effect of road salt.

For those of you who wondered how driving on H&R's up front w/ coilover springs in rear and OEM shocks, I now have an answer. It's interesting to say the least. The front is soft as H&R's tend to be. Then the rear is ridiculously stiff because the OEM shocks are basically bottomed out. So when I hit bumps, the front feels totally normal and then the rear wheel hits and it's like I'm driving a race car. Hopefully I'll resolve this tomorrow.
 
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Installed BC coilovers...or at least got 1/3 of the way through. The rear springs are on, but unfortunately I couldn't get either rear shock off. The rear lower shock bolt was frozen on both sides. PB blaster didn't help and I sheared off two adapters when I tried my breaker bar (1/2" bar to 3/8" socket). Then for some dumb reason I pressed on and tried to use a regular socket w/ a 3 ft. cheater since I didn't have any other drivers. That resulted in stripping out the driver. So tomorrow I'm going to get a 1/2" drive 17mm socket and try again. I'm never buying a car from the NE again. Only 12K mi. in 2 years when I bought it, but ever bolt I've encountered under the car has been seized. I've broken so many tools it's not even funny; I suppose that's the effect of road salt.

For those of you who wondered how driving on H&R's up front w/ coilover springs in rear and OEM shocks, I now have an answer. It's interesting to say the least. The front is soft as H&R's tend to be. Then the rear is ridiculously stiff because the OEM shocks are basically bottomed out. So when I hit bumps, the front feels totally normal and then the rear wheel hits and it's like I'm driving a race car. Hopefully I'll resolve this tomorrow.

So are you rocking the reverse rake now? Bottoming out the rear shock is looooooow.
 
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