turbocad's custom fx

Grand National motor swap into the Caddy... Genius.

So, is/was this one yours?

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Somewhat random question: I was just checking out your headers on the other thread and was wondering about the impact equal/unequal length header tubes have on turbo spooling. I think theoretically equal length tubes would cause the exhaust pulses to hit the turbo at exactly uniform intervals, which would in turn increase their efficiency and/or improve their ability to spin the turbines. Would it be worth the trouble? Maybe a better question is: Why aren't yours going to be equal length?
 
no, that picture is not mine


I did always think that equal length was the way to go of course, but at the time I cut those HR manifolds to mock up what I had in mind my equal length headers were still installed in the fx. since I have pulled the motor out I did play with the stillen headers in the same way & am planning on using equal length if I can indeed fit them in the same way. I'm working on trying to get the engine & tranny reassembled so I can lift it all back into the fx & then start seeing actual header clearance & fit & what I can do, but I'm almost sure at this point they will be equal length & built from the stillen headers. I just don't want to chop them up until I'm sure it won't wind up not fitting anyway ...

---------- Post added at 02:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:23 PM ----------
Tarzan04fx35 said:
is that a tablet pc in ur dash howd uu get the kit ?
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hey man, sorry I missed this, that is a chopped up fujitsu tablet, no kit, I built it all myself & swapped out to the 07-08 dash for it to fit. I think I have more info on this way back in the beginning of this thread, it was done before I started driving my fx originally like 2 years ago now... wow, time flies, had the fx for 2 years already :sad:
 
these are the turbo's & wastegates. these babies are going to be the first thing you see when you pop the hood :smile: these turbo's are good for 500-700 bhp, I'm building for the 525-550 range @ 8,000 rpm... pipes hanging in the background are what the headers & wastegates will be plumbed with. what's hanging there is 1.5" & 2" fabricator bends. everything gets cut from that to make all the angles & plumbing... downpipes will probably be 2.5" if I can fit it


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also been doing a bit more studying of the wiring diagrams for the body & the bcm & the whole pushbutton ign setup. aside from the obvious push button itself I need a few more components, mainly the ign lock module assy & the ikey reciever module. gonna contact the guy who's chopping up the car that I got this stuff from & see if it's available... may have to make a roadtrip to PA & see if I can scavenge over this car myself... I really want to get the newer ikey body control system up & running now in my fx
 
beautiful, plain beautiful!

wanted to drop by your shop today as i was early to an appointment but then hit traffic and then had no time :(
 
I've done a ton more research & mapping out diagrams & studying all the systems that make up the whole can buss & I'm now realizing that to really pull of the whole BCM swap with the pushbutton ign is going to involve even more parts & modules, stuff that I still do not have. I'm trying to see if I can get my hands on the add'l stuff I need but may wind up having no choice but to just go back to the original plan of running this on the DE ecu with the haltech... that is starting to look like a piece of cake compared to the complete systems rewiring I have in mind which is starting to look even more like a suicide mission than it already did...
 
Are there compromises to using the de/haltech approach? Sorry if you answered this before; I have read through this whole thread but I can't remember...
IMO, you get that thing to drive itself down the street and you'll be a rock star. (Not that you aren't already)
 
not really. I'm just being anal again, figured it would be more correct & factory like, plus, the push button start was a turn on, but it should still be fine with the DE & haltech. only compromise is that the de ecu will not "see" both throttle bodies as the second would be slaved off the first & it would only get feedback as to it operating correctly from the first TB only, so if the slaved TB does happen to malfunction the ecu will not see it, that's it really... only other difference is the HR ecu will see knock as either bank 1 or bank 2 where the DE ecu will only see knock, the DE only uses one sensor so I would have to have the 2 HR knock sensors both connected to just one input. not sure if the haltech has ability for multiple knock sensors & more importantly the ability to just act on one bank anyway, shit, I'm not even sure that the HR even does act on knock as a per bank basis anyway, most likely knock is knock & they only use 2 sensors to get better detection... most likely it really don't make any difference...

oh yeah, theres also the difference of I wouldn't really NEED the haltech right now if it was on the HR ecu where otherwise I kinda need it now...
 
turbocad6 said:
... shit, I'm not even sure that the HR even does act on knock as a per bank basis anyway, most likely knock is knock & they only use 2 sensors to get better detection... most likely it really don't make any difference...

...
Click to expand...

My understanding of knock sensors in general is that they are basically microphones tuned to an exceedingly specific frequency. ie, the resonant frequency of the block itself. The only way I can imagine the sensors would be able to differentiate bank 1 knock from bank 2 is through timing exactly when the knock occurred... Even then it would be more of a "most likely bank 1" deduction rather than an actual measurement. Another possibility would be if they two sensors could deduce proximity between them, like how ears can compute the sources direction via relative volume, but that's pretty high tech for the application and unlikely considering the nature of resonance. Regardless, is there really a benefit to knowing which bank without knowing which cylinder? What exactly does the ECU do when it detects knock?

turbocad6 said:
...oh yeah, theres also the difference of I wouldn't really NEED the haltech right now if it was on the HR ecu where otherwise I kinda need it now...
Click to expand...

Either way, you'll need the haltech for the TT setup right?
 
the DE uses just one knock sensor right in the middle, between the right & left cylinder banks of the engine. the HR has 2 sensors, one on the right & one on the left. I seriously doubt that the HR ecu treats a knock from sensor 1 different from sensor 2, but they do each have there own input to the HR ecu.

the more I think about it, I guess there is no way it matters... like you said it can determine knocking cylinder through logic, & then more than likely they will both pick up & have a knock signal at the same time too... I've got to look into what they output to see if they can just be connected togeather but I think that should be fine

so really the independent throttle control is the only "real" difference as far as just the ecu goes once I install the haltech. had it ran fine on the HR ecu it is then possible that I wouldn't even need the haltech, could just uprev tune the HR ecu, but, really the haltech is just so much better that I guess I'd want that eventually anyway...
 
that is exactly what I was planning on using, the 350z haltech is plug & play to the de ecu but it can be wired for the hr ecu too no problem, been done before & it works fine, there are a lot of HR engines running on that haltech...

I'm still hammering away at the hr ecu idea. I've now separated it into 2 seperate steps, first getting it running on the hr ecu, then if I can get it to work fine I can wire in the upgraded bcm & ipdm after to convert to push button ign... getting the rest of the parts is very difficult, if I don't get the rest of the parts then I will have to stay with the stock Ikey I guess :frown:

eventually I may get my hands on the few more parts I need for the bcm upgrade, but even if I don't I should still be able to get the engine running on the HR ecu even wthout the push button ign really, that is what I'm shooting for now...

test fitted tonight... it all fits togeather nice, plenty of room for everything. once the headers & downpipes are finalized I'll drop the motor back out to paint everything else...


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the equal length stillen headers are just too big & raise up the turbo's way too high. I think I'm going to have to go with these, there much more compact & fitting everything else will be easy. I've talked to a few turbo guys & the answer I'm getting from most is that equal length is a help for NA but not much difference when it comes to turbo anyway. I'm tempted to try & chop up the stillen headers to try & make them fit though :tongue:
 
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Love the painted crank case, man - makes the used engine look new again.

I'm also going with the Haltec platinum 350Z plug and play EMS - glad to see I'm on the same page as you, even though you are going HR and I'm staying DE.

Totally interested in seeing the turbo piping take shape. Your twin set-up is different than my single, but still curious to see how you solve some of the routing obstacles that I have been dealing with.

Finally - there has GOT to be an aftermarket plenum for the HR. That injection molded plastic is just ugly, sitting there on top of your beautiful creation.
 
I guess that design is good enough that no one has felt the need to improve upon it. But damn it sure is ugly.
 
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