edmarin
Member
- Car
- 2011 FX35 AWD
- Name
- Edward
The Random Question Thread
- Thread starter tchuck
- Start date
- Car
- 2009 FX50S
If are referring to when you press and hold for 3 seconds then it's on for 5 minutes then auto shuts off - then no. Just looking for on/off.
---------- Post Merged at 10:56 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 10:49 PM ----------
HA I love this answer!
My nav bypass is that switch I'm holding in the pic. The switch is connected to a module that is connected to the navigation system behind the console. What I'm thinking is I can rewire the bypass button wires to a receiver. Then have the 3rd garage door opener mirror button learn the RF frequency of the remote of the receiver. The end goal being that I can just press a factory mirror 3rd garage door button instead of an aftermarket switch.
This is just a concoction my brain thought of. If any of you guys think this will not work, please let me know before I start splicing!
Yep, that's what diodes do.
If you just want on/off for the switched device, then bypass the manual switch altogether and wire up the receiver directly. The reason the output has three taps (NO, NC, and C) is that sometimes devices require constant and switched power to function normally. If your device were a dual filament light bulb, the connection would look like this:
NO = F1+
NC = F1-
NO = F2+ (via jumper on either end)
C = F2-
SfmDRuT2
(EDIT: The RF receiver needs constant power to operate. Thats what the 12vdc+ and 12vdc- are for.)
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- Car
- 2009 FX50S
hey Tim, actually to correct my statement, the diode functionality I'm indifferent....I just assumed I would lose that functionality.....are you saying that if I splice into the wires instead of cutting the nav bypass switch off, then the diode, as well as the on/off, would still remain through the RF receiver button? In that case, I'll just leave the button intact and just splice into the wires...why not.
Is the wiring of the red, black, and white how I described in 2-4 correct and leaving C without anything?
Any reason why this shouldn't work? Otherwise, I'm ordering the RF receiver and remote and doing the install when it comes in.
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You'll have to pop the board off the switch to determine the wire colors. One is hot, one is switched, and one is switched with a diode. I would assume you are right about the colors, but it would be really easy to pop the board off and be certain.
I don't know how to retain the diode function with the parts you've listed, but that doesn't mean it cant be done...
To get the bypass to work with what you have, you'll want to do this:
DC/12v+ = ignition switched 12v + input
DC/12v- = ignition switched 12v -input
NO = switch black (intercepted, not tapped)
NC = not used
C = switch red (intercepted, not tapped)
Thats assuming the white wire on the switch is the diode line. Regardless, the diode line is unused in the above circuit.
SfmDRuT2
(Edit)
Is the nav bypass a module controlled by the switch or is the switch itself the bypass? If the latter is true, my plan above needs some tweaking...
I don't know how to retain the diode function with the parts you've listed, but that doesn't mean it cant be done...
To get the bypass to work with what you have, you'll want to do this:
DC/12v+ = ignition switched 12v + input
DC/12v- = ignition switched 12v -input
NO = switch black (intercepted, not tapped)
NC = not used
C = switch red (intercepted, not tapped)
Thats assuming the white wire on the switch is the diode line. Regardless, the diode line is unused in the above circuit.
SfmDRuT2
(Edit)
Is the nav bypass a module controlled by the switch or is the switch itself the bypass? If the latter is true, my plan above needs some tweaking...
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- Car
- 2004 FX35 AWD
- Name
- John Green
If you filled your tires to 33psi at sea level you would only gain a couple of psi. Nothing to worry about.
The Influence of Altitude Changes on Tire Pressure
Lea esta página en español
Significant changes in altitude affects tire pressures when traveling from one elevation to another. Fortunately this influence is relatively small and can be easily accommodated.
Atmospheric pressure is the force exerted on objects by the weight of the air molecules above them. While air molecules are invisible, they have mass and occupy space.
However as altitude increases, atmospheric pressure decreases. For example, atmospheric pressure pushes against the earth at 14.7 pounds per square inch (1 kilogram per square centimeter) at sea level, yet drops to only 10.1 pounds per square inch at 10,000 feet as indicated in the following chart.
Altitude (ft.) Air Pressure (psi)
Sea Level 14.7
1,000 14.2
2,000 13.7
3,000 13.2
4,000 12.7
5,000 12.2
6,000 11.7
7,000 11.3
8,000 10.9
9,000 10.5
10,000 10.1
When it comes to measuring tire inflation pressure, it is important to realize there is a difference between atmospheric pressure and gauge pressure. Most pressure gauges (including all tire pressure gauges) are designed to measure the amount of pressure above the ambient atmospheric pressure.
Imagine removing the core from a tire valve and allowing the air to escape. Even after the air has completely stopped rushing out of the valve, the tire is still experiencing 14.7 pounds per square inch of atmospheric pressure. However, a tire pressure gauge would read zero pounds per square inch of tire inflation pressure because the pressure outside the tire is equal to the pressure inside.
Since a tire mounted on a wheel essentially establishes a flexible airtight (at least in the short term) pressure chamber in which the tire is shaped and reinforced by internal cords, it retains the same volume of air molecules regardless of its elevation above sea level. However, if tire inflation were set with a tire pressure gauge at sea level (where the atmospheric pressure of 14.7 pounds per square inch is used as ambient atmospheric pressure by the gauge), the same tire pressure gauge would indicate the pressure has increased at higher elevations where the ambient atmospheric pressure is lower. Those measured at the 5,000-foot level (where an atmospheric pressure of only 12.2 pounds per square inch is the ambient pressure) would indicate about 2-3 psi higher than at sea level. On the other hand, traveling from a high altitude location to sea level would result in an apparent loss of pressure of about 2-3 psi.
However, the differences indicated above assume that the tire pressures are measured at the same ambient temperatures. Since tire pressures change about 1 psi for every 10-degree Fahrenheit change in ambient temperature, the tire pressure measured in the relatively moderate climate typically experienced at sea level will change when exposed to the colder temperatures associated with higher elevations.
This means that in many cases differences in ambient temperature may come close to offsetting the differences due to the change in altitude. Depending on the length of their stay at different altitudes, drivers may want to simply set their cold tire pressures the morning after arriving at their destination, as well as reset them the morning after they return home.
---------- Post Merged at 08:48 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 08:48 PM ----------
According to this inf If you filled your tires to 33psi at sea level you would only gain a couple of psi. Nothing to worry about.
The Influence of Altitude Changes on Tire Pressure
Lea esta página en español
Significant changes in altitude affects tire pressures when traveling from one elevation to another. Fortunately this influence is relatively small and can be easily accommodated.
Atmospheric pressure is the force exerted on objects by the weight of the air molecules above them. While air molecules are invisible, they have mass and occupy space.
However as altitude increases, atmospheric pressure decreases. For example, atmospheric pressure pushes against the earth at 14.7 pounds per square inch (1 kilogram per square centimeter) at sea level, yet drops to only 10.1 pounds per square inch at 10,000 feet as indicated in the following chart.
Altitude (ft.) Air Pressure (psi)
Sea Level 14.7
1,000 14.2
2,000 13.7
3,000 13.2
4,000 12.7
5,000 12.2
6,000 11.7
7,000 11.3
8,000 10.9
9,000 10.5
10,000 10.1
When it comes to measuring tire inflation pressure, it is important to realize there is a difference between atmospheric pressure and gauge pressure. Most pressure gauges (including all tire pressure gauges) are designed to measure the amount of pressure above the ambient atmospheric pressure.
Imagine removing the core from a tire valve and allowing the air to escape. Even after the air has completely stopped rushing out of the valve, the tire is still experiencing 14.7 pounds per square inch of atmospheric pressure. However, a tire pressure gauge would read zero pounds per square inch of tire inflation pressure because the pressure outside the tire is equal to the pressure inside.
Since a tire mounted on a wheel essentially establishes a flexible airtight (at least in the short term) pressure chamber in which the tire is shaped and reinforced by internal cords, it retains the same volume of air molecules regardless of its elevation above sea level. However, if tire inflation were set with a tire pressure gauge at sea level (where the atmospheric pressure of 14.7 pounds per square inch is used as ambient atmospheric pressure by the gauge), the same tire pressure gauge would indicate the pressure has increased at higher elevations where the ambient atmospheric pressure is lower. Those measured at the 5,000-foot level (where an atmospheric pressure of only 12.2 pounds per square inch is the ambient pressure) would indicate about 2-3 psi higher than at sea level. On the other hand, traveling from a high altitude location to sea level would result in an apparent loss of pressure of about 2-3 psi.
However, the differences indicated above assume that the tire pressures are measured at the same ambient temperatures. Since tire pressures change about 1 psi for every 10-degree Fahrenheit change in ambient temperature, the tire pressure measured in the relatively moderate climate typically experienced at sea level will change when exposed to the colder temperatures associated with higher elevations.
This means that in many cases differences in ambient temperature may come close to offsetting the differences due to the change in altitude. Depending on the length of their stay at different altitudes, drivers may want to simply set their cold tire pressures the morning after arriving at their destination, as well as reset them the morning after they return home.
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- Car
- 2009 FX50S
The nav bypass is a module controlled by the control switch in the picture. The control switch is connected to the bypass module. The bypass module is wired to a connector. A connector from the car that normally goes into the navigation instead goes into the bypass connector that then goes into the navigation.
I went over the instructions of the bypass and gosh I was wrong about the 3 seconds...haven't used that auto mode ever since I watch movies too....so here is how it really works per instructions (I have used manual mode):
AUTO MODE: When car in motion to operate everything, press the button once. It will light up in red. From that point on, the enhancement is in effect and should have access to all lockouts for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes, it will automatically deactivate (button red light turns off). If within the 5 minutes period you finish your operation and want the system to go back to normal, press the button once more and the red light will go off and the navigation is back to normal.
MANUAL MODE: The manual mode is designed to allow the user to enhance the navigation indefinitely and remove the 5 minutes timer under the Auto Mode (this is what I have right now so that I can watch movies without it kicking me out of the movie after 5 minutes). To switch from auto mode (default setting of module) to manual mode: hold the button, press the start engine button without foot on brake, continue holding 7 seconds until hear click from bypass module and see the red switch blink once. You are now in manual mode and will stay until perform these procedures again to go back to auto mode. If you see steady blinking of red light, you failed to initiate the mode change properly and repeat process.
So I'm not sure if you still think the white wire is a diode or not anymore since the switch always appears to work as a on/off/hold situation and the functionality of auto deactivating with a timer or not is set by the module that you set initially with the switch.
Here is a pic of the other side of the control switch. B is where the black wire goes to, W to white, and R to red and Y there is no wire. Although I don't think this helps at all...
///7158[/ATTACH]
Wouldn't one of the wires need to be 12v....how else is the switch getting a red light showing it's active?
- Car
- 2003 FX45
- Car
- 2005 Ford Excursion
aDear Mr. jdTrader and Mr. tchuck,
agreed
Attachments
Whoa, that's much smarter than I had assumed. I've had too many beers to figure it out tonight. :p I'll check it out again tomorrow.
SfmDRuT2
Is it wrong to want to stay underneath the comforter , in bed all day on such a cool Fall day ??? Only reason I got out of bed to brush my teeth and get my freshly brewed coffee
Sent from my Nexus 7 2
Better than getting felt up by pervy Asian FX owners at Mitsuwa.
T'talk
Better than getting felt up by pervy Asian FX owners at Mitsuwa.
T'talk
Hhhhhmmmmmm maybe not
??Sent from my Nexus 7 2
Ok, here's my guess as to what's going on. A wiring diagram would make this really easy....but its still fun to figure it out.
The white, red, and black wires are still the diode, +DC, and -DC, respectively. The three things you see on the back of the board are a switch, a diode, and a light bulb. In both modes, when the switch is "off", the three terminals are open. In the auto mode, when the switch is depressed, it watches sappy movies and remembers the good old days....just kidding. When the switch is depressed in auto mode the NO (R) and NC (B) are closed but are kept open by a relay in the module. At the same time, C (W) and NO (R) are temporarily closed, which activates both the light and the diode inside the switch, as well as bypassing the open relay in the module. This activates the nav bypass feature and illuminates the light on the switch for the duration of the diode's influence (5min).
When you hold the switch and press the ignition switch (to change modes), the relay inside the module trips (not sure exactly how without a diagram), which closes and makes NO (R) and NC (B) a normally functioning switch. The diode circuit , NO (R) and C (W), still operates in this mode but is deactivated by the now reversed relay inside the module.
In Manual mode everything works much simpler. NO (R) and NC (B) are opened and closed via switch and C (W) is rendered useless by the relay inside the module.
Sooooooo, I think what this means is that you need a different RF receiver that mimics the functionality of the button. Let me see what I can find...
(EDIT) I think the switch inside the button works like this:
"off" -everything open
"pressed" -NO (R) and C (W) closed
"on" -NO (R) and NC (B) closed
SfmDRuT2
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You need one with two buttons- one to replicate the on/off function, and one to replicate the press-and-hold function.
I think you could make your plan work with the receiver you found, but you'd want to have a selector switch between the RF unit and the original button so that you could retain full functionality if you need it (like if the light starts blinking randomly).
SfmDRuT2
I think you could make your plan work with the receiver you found, but you'd want to have a selector switch between the RF unit and the original button so that you could retain full functionality if you need it (like if the light starts blinking randomly).
SfmDRuT2
