Ray's Boost
- Thread starter raymond
- Start date
Update> To be honest a 100% certain i'm still not but it seemed that 2 things have happened:
1) one oilscrap spring of one of the pistons broke and made a groove in the engine wall so to say. Now i bored the block already to a 96mm oversize so if i would proceed with this engine i would need to go to 97mm pistons wich are have to be custome made. Only one piston failed but have to replace them all as you cannot buy them per 1. Also my Haltech wideband controllers failed at a certain point as the plus failed. Very idioaticly done by them trough a circuit you put i an empty port on the "circuit board" No signal from them means the haltech will go into limp mode and engine will run rich. Noticed that on my pistons as well. But already fixed that so not any damage trough that yet......but still very delicat made.
2) most important thing is that 2 of my tensioners seemed to have failed on me. Put all tensioners....chain....guides in new and all oem nissan. One of the chains at the VDC / Cam side did not come out at all....no pressure there. So when i started it it made a terrible sound but only for a second. Chain was loose.....so hit things so to say....when running it started to floot and did not hit anything anymore.
Main problem was the main tensioner.....i cannot seem to find out what happened there. This tensioner can go out but not in. It is locked when extens. So when the chain wears or such it keep providing tension in time.
Now i did some surche on google and found many topics and even youtube videos trough "vq35de timing chain" search but my main tensioner problem i cannot find. My tensioner fully extended wich made such a crazy tightness on my chain that i am amazed it didn't break. In theory due to that tight chain it pulled my crank up at the front so to say. The crank warps more at the front of the engine side due to more pressure of the chain there compared to the back.
Bearings are worn but not to extreme. But all with all the metal created there circulated in my engine wearing my cams....head....bearings.....it's just a chain reaction so to say. It does seem that my heads and cams can be saved but crank not and need to bore my block again also due to problem 1)
Honestly i'm schocked that due to faillure of these things the end problem can be so big. I have read of this tensioner breaking but not of creating so much metal in the oil and all. So as i said in the beginning i'm not a 100% certain and will not put the engine back together before i do.....cause honestly i do not want this to happen another time. The well is running dry so to say ;-)
1) one oilscrap spring of one of the pistons broke and made a groove in the engine wall so to say. Now i bored the block already to a 96mm oversize so if i would proceed with this engine i would need to go to 97mm pistons wich are have to be custome made. Only one piston failed but have to replace them all as you cannot buy them per 1. Also my Haltech wideband controllers failed at a certain point as the plus failed. Very idioaticly done by them trough a circuit you put i an empty port on the "circuit board" No signal from them means the haltech will go into limp mode and engine will run rich. Noticed that on my pistons as well. But already fixed that so not any damage trough that yet......but still very delicat made.
2) most important thing is that 2 of my tensioners seemed to have failed on me. Put all tensioners....chain....guides in new and all oem nissan. One of the chains at the VDC / Cam side did not come out at all....no pressure there. So when i started it it made a terrible sound but only for a second. Chain was loose.....so hit things so to say....when running it started to floot and did not hit anything anymore.
Main problem was the main tensioner.....i cannot seem to find out what happened there. This tensioner can go out but not in. It is locked when extens. So when the chain wears or such it keep providing tension in time.
Now i did some surche on google and found many topics and even youtube videos trough "vq35de timing chain" search but my main tensioner problem i cannot find. My tensioner fully extended wich made such a crazy tightness on my chain that i am amazed it didn't break. In theory due to that tight chain it pulled my crank up at the front so to say. The crank warps more at the front of the engine side due to more pressure of the chain there compared to the back.
Bearings are worn but not to extreme. But all with all the metal created there circulated in my engine wearing my cams....head....bearings.....it's just a chain reaction so to say. It does seem that my heads and cams can be saved but crank not and need to bore my block again also due to problem 1)
Honestly i'm schocked that due to faillure of these things the end problem can be so big. I have read of this tensioner breaking but not of creating so much metal in the oil and all. So as i said in the beginning i'm not a 100% certain and will not put the engine back together before i do.....cause honestly i do not want this to happen another time. The well is running dry so to say ;-)
Last edited:
On my most recent motor I bought all new parts, I mean everything was new down to the upper oil pan. Previous motors I would usually get timing chain kit which replaced the most parts like this. https://www.gtmotorsports.com/product.php?productid=16527&cat=392&page=1
Yeah i ordered all those parts except the VDC sprockets at the dealer. Got a phone call from the engine builder today....bad news....HKS cams and heads cannot be saved unfortunatly. The are worn in too much. They opened my oil pump and letterly said, it looks like someone through in a hand of sand.....completly ruined. Pump was new ( Rev-up). Luckely i had some spare heads but no extra cams. bill is increasing by the day......
Again the builder and myself cannot put our finger on what really happened or failed.
Viet what oil did you use for break-in....?? And what oil do you use now...?? I try to figure out all ways and point so i can devert this BS for a next time....
Last edited:
Yeah, I went with an all new timing chain kit (including the VDC sprockets) as well.
Used regular oil for break in, then switched to synthetic (Shell Rotella T6).
Guess I need a magnetic plug for a visual check. My first two oil changes I actually sent oil samples to a lab so they could comment on the metals present. Feedback for me was expected - analysis showed wear metals present typical of a new motor or break in period. After 6000 miles, those levels reduced as expected.
Used regular oil for break in, then switched to synthetic (Shell Rotella T6).
Guess I need a magnetic plug for a visual check. My first two oil changes I actually sent oil samples to a lab so they could comment on the metals present. Feedback for me was expected - analysis showed wear metals present typical of a new motor or break in period. After 6000 miles, those levels reduced as expected.
Wich W and synthetic did you use for break in brad...?? I had semi synthetic at first but motor did not run well with the. Thinking of that now it might have gone wrong there already. Then i changed to full synthetic 5W-35. But as soon as it got warm you could here the valves or timing....engine made quit some rattle/ticking noise
Yeah i know buddy....i really try to give it another round but the whole prokject has been fighting me from day one.....don't know if i have the time or funds to keep this up. Maybe put my oem motor in with low boost and drive........dammit...!!Damn, Ray. That really sucks about the heads and cams.
SfmDRuT2
I'm not sure exact brand and oil. Probably castro 5w40 for break in, engine primed (crank engine with no fuel or spark) a few times before actually trying to start the engine. Initially cosworth suggested 15w50 race oil but it was stupid thick the oil pressure when cold was crazy high. I switched to Amsoil 5w40 when I saw the pressures were so high.
Was that break in oil semi or full synthetic that you know...?? I wanted to go 10W60 Castrol RS ( or castrol X is it called nowadays). Also could get my hands on 15W50 race oil. But thought the 60 be best......i had the idea the 5W35 i now had when getting warmer would be too thin. As when it was cold it didn't rattle that much....
Brutal all the way around man.......time and money. Here's hoping you find the issue. After three engines on my very basic build we figured out the problem. The first fault was simply a communication problem that could have been avoided. Be nice if you could locate a forensic engine inspector to look over all your parts and help determine the source.
Thanks guys...!! I just have to regroup, focus, rob a bank and hit it one more time 
I will definitly pick this up again. Would be a pitty to have been that close and leave it be. But for now i really have to sort things out and take my time.....luckely it is no daily driver for me and.........i'm used to these long projects :bulgy-eyes Not funny actually, but the thruth by now )
I will definitly pick this up again. Would be a pitty to have been that close and leave it be. But for now i really have to sort things out and take my time.....luckely it is no daily driver for me and.........i'm used to these long projects :bulgy-eyes Not funny actually, but the thruth by now )jaybracer1
Member
Nice build!