Yeah. Billet.
While there should be room, The stack actually fastens to stillens cai box, so likely not. Requires the correct fit cone too
onthemove MOD's
- Thread starter onthemove
- Start date
Yeah. Billet.
While there should be room, The stack actually fastens to stillens cai box, so likely not. Requires the correct fit cone too
I was thinking to get the STILLEN CAI box and attach it directly to the LMS... Wonder if it's possible... I had the z-tube before with a K&N drop-in... Really hated the accordian tubes and saw how when you rev the engine, the extra rubber pieces would actually collapse a little under the vacuum pressure... That's why I went with the LMS and cone...
Looks like it fits LMS OK. No Accordian
https://www.infinitiscene.com/attachments/38854702851_5043cc8702_b-jpg.467722/
https://www.infinitiscene.com/attachments/38854702851_5043cc8702_b-jpg.467722/
onthemove
Member
I watched the whole vid this morning while drinking some damn good coffee and I hope the time I spent helps anyone who's really interested in getting an honest comparison. The Challengers best run was it's 2nd run @ 5.2 seconds 0-60. The guy got wheel spin in it's first and 3rd runs. The charger was slower by a few 10th's.
1. Go to the challenger/charger vid and position it to the time 3:04.
2. Go to my vid and position it's time to 0:05.
3. Start whichever vid you care to start first and start the 2nd one fast.
4. Position your cursor over pause on my vid and watch the challenger's mph.
5. Hit pause on my vid as soon as the challenger's speedo hits 60mph
It takes a little practice and ya'll are probably not interested in spending the few minutes it might take to get it right. In my vid, I botched the look of the take off. Not sure what happened but I think the camera cord got caught on the shifter and that's why the camera appears to fall back right before I take off. Just pay attention to when you see 1 mph register on both cars as that's when they're actually moving.
I'm coming up with 65-66 mph on the FX. I need to show 63 mph on the speedo to represent 60. I'm 2-3 mph faster than the challenger.
Edit - I did this several more times and I think it's dead even which makes sense as on this vid I ran a 5.2. Thing is, the scangauge picks up every 2/10's so a 5.2 could be a 5.1 but not a 5.3. If it ran just past a 5.2 then it will automatically give me a reading of 5.4.
1. Go to the challenger/charger vid and position it to the time 3:04.
2. Go to my vid and position it's time to 0:05.
3. Start whichever vid you care to start first and start the 2nd one fast.
4. Position your cursor over pause on my vid and watch the challenger's mph.
5. Hit pause on my vid as soon as the challenger's speedo hits 60mph
It takes a little practice and ya'll are probably not interested in spending the few minutes it might take to get it right. In my vid, I botched the look of the take off. Not sure what happened but I think the camera cord got caught on the shifter and that's why the camera appears to fall back right before I take off. Just pay attention to when you see 1 mph register on both cars as that's when they're actually moving.
I'm coming up with 65-66 mph on the FX. I need to show 63 mph on the speedo to represent 60. I'm 2-3 mph faster than the challenger.
Edit - I did this several more times and I think it's dead even which makes sense as on this vid I ran a 5.2. Thing is, the scangauge picks up every 2/10's so a 5.2 could be a 5.1 but not a 5.3. If it ran just past a 5.2 then it will automatically give me a reading of 5.4.
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onthemove
Member
11 second NATURALLY ASPIRATED 350z. Just barely, but it's sub 12. IIRC this is from December 2017. That's 1/2 a second faster than a new mustang gt with 435/400. This guy's dumping the clutch at 6k+ rpms or some shit like that on slicks in the winter whereas the mustang does not though the manufacturers do get their #'s at a track which would probably yield better results than on the street, regardless of the tire. He's got a vid with the same car on a dry shot running an 11 flat. Damn. It's a built block, high compression, cammed and a big old intake pipe.
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onthemove
Member
I like how specific this guy with the g37x is. His quote from the youtube vid below.
"12 G37x Coupe (100% stock, no exceptions) running 0-60 in 4.9-5.0 sec., 0-100 mph in approx 12.2 sec., and 0-105 mph in about 13.6 sec. Using regular D mode in optimal weather conditions only 300 ft. above sea level on a straight/level road, not as perfect as a track but close (private closed course)."
Both our vids were in "optimal weather conditions". This car should run a 5.5 0-60 and a 13.9 in the 1/4 yet he's a 1/2 second faster 0-60 and 3 /10th's faster in the 1/4 which is a little suspect to say the least, assuming it is in fact stock. My thoughts are he's telling the truth but the level private road is descending in his favor, he's close to sea level but no sae adjustments and he's one lucky mo fo and got the supposed oh so rare "factory freak" which I think is a bunch of "bull shit". There's also the strong possibility he's got lighter aftermarket wheels and/or smaller, lighter tires. That would be a good explanation, that and being so close to sea level. My run is 750 above sea level, the trans is shifting too early in auto and my vid does not represent the best my old FX can do today. Glad he put down his times. I was gonna say, wtf? This 5.5 is faster than the r/t's 5.2 in the other vid? Based on my times now, it would be a damn close race.
When the G37x hit 60 mph I hit pause on my shit and I"m at 62 mph so I'm 1 mph behind this guy. With the G at 100 mph I'm at 99 but 4-5 mph off on the speedo so I'm 6 mph behind him there.
1. G37x time at 0:02 and with the tack just under 2500 rpm.
2. FX35 time at 0:05 and with the tack just under 3k rpm with the screen all fucking blurry cause I cannot do two things at once.
"12 G37x Coupe (100% stock, no exceptions) running 0-60 in 4.9-5.0 sec., 0-100 mph in approx 12.2 sec., and 0-105 mph in about 13.6 sec. Using regular D mode in optimal weather conditions only 300 ft. above sea level on a straight/level road, not as perfect as a track but close (private closed course)."
Both our vids were in "optimal weather conditions". This car should run a 5.5 0-60 and a 13.9 in the 1/4 yet he's a 1/2 second faster 0-60 and 3 /10th's faster in the 1/4 which is a little suspect to say the least, assuming it is in fact stock. My thoughts are he's telling the truth but the level private road is descending in his favor, he's close to sea level but no sae adjustments and he's one lucky mo fo and got the supposed oh so rare "factory freak" which I think is a bunch of "bull shit". There's also the strong possibility he's got lighter aftermarket wheels and/or smaller, lighter tires. That would be a good explanation, that and being so close to sea level. My run is 750 above sea level, the trans is shifting too early in auto and my vid does not represent the best my old FX can do today. Glad he put down his times. I was gonna say, wtf? This 5.5 is faster than the r/t's 5.2 in the other vid? Based on my times now, it would be a damn close race.
When the G37x hit 60 mph I hit pause on my shit and I"m at 62 mph so I'm 1 mph behind this guy. With the G at 100 mph I'm at 99 but 4-5 mph off on the speedo so I'm 6 mph behind him there.
1. G37x time at 0:02 and with the tack just under 2500 rpm.
2. FX35 time at 0:05 and with the tack just under 3k rpm with the screen all fucking blurry cause I cannot do two things at once.
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onthemove
Member
It would be nice to have something that would keep the camera stable and both hands free. I might make a couple more of these vid's, one that's up to date with this last tune and another with n2o which I was expecting to be rocking by now. A temporary camera mod with some abs and lots of tape
?
?Everything was good till she had to take it off... She was smart enough to double-tape the sensitive areas (so they weren't sticky) but the "straps" still had to hold the rest of the structural weight of the bikini top up...
onthemove
Member
Another ridiculously bitchin mod from onthemove's garage. To see if the air box is in a negative pressure situation, I molded this thing out of abs. Injection molded pieces would sure be swell but that's not in the cards. I'm sure someone with experience making things out of abs could do better as well as the 5 year old kid down the street from me but hey, screw them both!
This and the area I bashed through on the core support are the only 2 areas air is being drawn in. As a side effect, the iat's might end up being a little lower also. You can see the side of the scoop below the air filter box and frame.
Making a prototype is nearly impossible and a waste of time for my tools and skill set. Cardboard's too rigid. I went back and forth, installing, marking, trimming, heating and shaping. It's attached via 1/2 dozen oem fasteners so it's not going anywhere. I know I can make something that should be more effective, something with a wider mouth that tapers a bit into the air box cavity but I just don't want to cut into the bumper just yet. This scoop is hardly noticeable and a far cry from all the crap that formerly resided underneath the front bumper. Still got a few loose ends to wrap up.
The last pic is from just past the opening of the new scoop.
The filter looks likes it's pinched in here but it's not.
This and the area I bashed through on the core support are the only 2 areas air is being drawn in. As a side effect, the iat's might end up being a little lower also. You can see the side of the scoop below the air filter box and frame.
Making a prototype is nearly impossible and a waste of time for my tools and skill set. Cardboard's too rigid. I went back and forth, installing, marking, trimming, heating and shaping. It's attached via 1/2 dozen oem fasteners so it's not going anywhere. I know I can make something that should be more effective, something with a wider mouth that tapers a bit into the air box cavity but I just don't want to cut into the bumper just yet. This scoop is hardly noticeable and a far cry from all the crap that formerly resided underneath the front bumper. Still got a few loose ends to wrap up.
The last pic is from just past the opening of the new scoop.
The filter looks likes it's pinched in here but it's not.
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onthemove
Member
Took the grocery getter out for groceries. I don't miss the spare tire cover panel at all. All the grocery bags fit in between the bose woofer and sheet metal and is locked in place so no more food flying around. The woofer sounds great with just the scotabc mat on top. With bass on 5 I can barely here the lyrics to imma be.
I wasn't in the position to get any street times yet but no negatives and as I hoped, iat's are down once again and at their lowest compared to ambient. Iat's holding speed are still around 7* above ambient but at idle they move up even slower, noticeably so. I'm a little surprised by that and am convinced now that the majority of increased iat's on a heat soaked engine are due to air from the bay being drawn in through the intake more so than radiant heat being absorbed by the pipe, maf sensor, etc. I did get on it once briefly and it felt great but honestly, I'm still not used to how much faster onthemove is so I really can't tell. I just don't drive it enough nor beat on it nearly enough. I don't even need to downshift to pass much anymore.
I can probably get a little more radical with this design and incorporate this scoop into the bumper below and to the right of the fog light. It's hardly noticeable as you can see in the pics below.
I wasn't in the position to get any street times yet but no negatives and as I hoped, iat's are down once again and at their lowest compared to ambient. Iat's holding speed are still around 7* above ambient but at idle they move up even slower, noticeably so. I'm a little surprised by that and am convinced now that the majority of increased iat's on a heat soaked engine are due to air from the bay being drawn in through the intake more so than radiant heat being absorbed by the pipe, maf sensor, etc. I did get on it once briefly and it felt great but honestly, I'm still not used to how much faster onthemove is so I really can't tell. I just don't drive it enough nor beat on it nearly enough. I don't even need to downshift to pass much anymore.
I can probably get a little more radical with this design and incorporate this scoop into the bumper below and to the right of the fog light. It's hardly noticeable as you can see in the pics below.
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