onthemove MOD's

[StuLax18]

I don't run low 5's 0-60. I'm not sure what I run, but if it was even as low as 6 seconds I'd be surprised. The only times I have are 1/4 mile as backed up by timeslips. I don't think I have a build thread, but for mods I have Stillen intake and z-tube, MD 5/16" iso-thermal spacer, UpRev Osiris tune, MD ART pipes, MD TDX V2 exhaust, GTR wheels, stock sized tires in front, 295/45 in the rear, BC coilovers, front GT Spec braces.

I think one accurate way to record a 0-60 is to have a camera facing the dash and record the timestamps when it starts and when it hits 60 mph. But our speedos read a little fast, so that will be inaccurate, and then if you have the lower diameter tires it will be even less accurate. I guess there's not really a surefire way to measure 0-60. It's not like the 1/4 mile where it's a distance and there's no way to manipulate it. I know so many car reviews have widely varying 0-60 times too.

I drove an SQ5 recently, rated at 5.1 0-60, and it definitely felt a lot faster and pulled harder, as one would expect a F/I engine that's around 350 HP and 370 TQ would do.

I'll look for more info on the scangauge earlier in the thread.

 

[onthemove]

Ah damn. I read your last reply too fast. Sorry about that. Got a lot of shit going on today. Missed the "ie". I was looking forward to seeing what you've done and what methods you used to test said mods for a 5 second 0-60. I'm always down to learn.
There's a lot to consider regarding acceleration like I said before not that you don;t already know that. HP and torque are a huge part of that but I've found a lot of meat was left on the FX bone. Consider Brammo's vortech supercharged FX running a 13.6 with near 500 hp to the wheels. WTF? Great build and I liked a lot of what I saw but MEAT ON BONE.
Look at the comparison vehicles a few posts back. There's a reason I included the various aspects that I did.
I'll get the time slips come hell or high water. I might have to take a mini vacation to the beach where there's a track at sea level. If they show the scangauge as being dead nutz accurate or extremely close, then there's your tool for 0-60 times among other things.

 

[gto]

Ha! We're all questioning. Time Slips would really help back it up.
2 seconds with some bolt ons and a small diet?
Dude, I love your ingenuity and engineering appetite, but take it to the track

 

[onthemove]

Roger that GTO.

I'd start a new post elsewhere but maybe I'll get a hit on this thread. Anybody know what Nissan truck shares the front differential with the 1st gen. FX?

 

[StuLax18]

Ah yes the German way of going fast, lots of power to move lots of weight. *cough* looking at you Mercedes Benz.

We should have a calculator on here in the 1/4 mile times thread they use to adjust for elevation. I think my runs were at 500' so no adjustments though. I read about the VDC fuse and GTO saying that made the car feel much faster, so I'll play around with that because now I'm curious. I already drive with VDC off, but maybe the nanny is still lurking. Ha, funny story from a couple nights ago. Leaving the grocery store I see the sprinklers leaking all over the road and I'm like yes I'm gonna drift out of here. Pull out, give it a punch, and it cuts power and I realized in my haste I had forgotten to turn off VDC, which is usually part of my pre-flight routine right before putting on my seatbelt.

I did some quick math, and it looks like your smaller tires are only 5% lower than stock, so 60 mph stock is only 57 mph for you. However, I noticed it makes a bigger difference in the 1/4 mile. A usual 1/4 mile being 1320', but if you take that 5% off where you're gaining from the ECU not realizing the smaller tires, then it's only 1254' you traveled. That's 66 less feet, and at 90 mph it would take you an additional 1/2 second to cover that. This is all just math and assumptions that the scangauge pulls data straight from what the ECU sees, and that what the ECU sees is impacted by the smaller OD tires.

 

[StuLax18]

Roger that GTO.

I'd start a new post elsewhere but maybe I'll get a hit on this thread. Anybody know what Nissan truck shares the front differential with the 1st gen. FX?

Pathfinder maybe? I was trying to cross-reference trucks/suvs with the VQ35 at least that have AWD/4WD. Maybe you'd have to look at what has the ATTESA AWD system?

 

[gto]

I did some quick math, and it looks like your smaller tires are only 5% lower than stock, so 60 mph stock is only 57 mph for you. However, I noticed it makes a bigger difference in the 1/4 mile. A usual 1/4 mile being 1320', but if you take that 5% off where you're gaining from the ECU not realizing the smaller tires, then it's only 1254' you traveled. That's 66 less feet, and at 90 mph it would take you an additional 1/2 second to cover that. This is all just math and assumptions that the scangauge pulls data straight from what the ECU sees, and that what the ECU sees is impacted by the smaller OD tires.

hmmm. out of box thinking.

Re. the VDC. It felt animal when I accelerated from stop in turn.Rear wanted to come around too quickly & I wasnt used to it. Didnt feel like practicing drift mode on city streets. I like my car too much. Cant confirm if it pulled better off straight line, but it may have. Didnt experiment much at all since I know I need a balanced car more than anything else. Fuse back in

 

[onthemove]

Here's a few quotes from pages 3 and 4 regarding the scangauge and smaller diameter tires;

"When I first started to mod the FX, a bit over a year ago, I got this scangauge 2. It was inexpensive & most seemed happy with it's accuracy, but most bought it for gas mileage tracking. I didn't have much done at that time. Had these crappy Kumho's, z-tube with drop in k&n and deleted/plugged the remaining baffles, pulled the spare tire & hardware and that was about it.
I tested it with, iirc, about a 1/2 tank of gas, a passenger and favorable temps. Wish I would've taken a photo or saved the time in the unit, but the best I could muster was a 7.1 second 0-60 time. With an 1/8 tank and no passenger, probably would've done a 7.0 to 6.9
Fast forward to today when running an errand I ran 2 0-60's on two different roads. The 1st was flat and got a 5.8. No photo of the first road but the 2nd one is below. The photo is after the run. I pulled over on the way back. It was slightly inclined but still got a 6.0"

"Found out today at 60mph I'm really traveling at 57mps and at 80, 75 using my gps. Damn. Forgot about influence on gears from tires translating to mph being off. It also screws with the scanguage in terms of feet measured.
My 5.8 is probably more like a 6.0. This was also on a slightly inclined rd working against me so need a safe high mph flat rd and a readout from 0 to 63mph for accuracy. Run below went to 61 so pretty close. Don't need multiple runs to average out. The FX and I are very consistent. Only inconsistency is temperature affects on iat's.
The 0-80 is probably more like 9.6 to 9.8 so need to do the same as above. Either way it's damn close. Gonna find a long flat private rd, speak with the owner to get his/her blessing so I can safely go to 110 and hold it to see if mph is off any more than 5mph and make note of this. I can go 0-110 and save the run and figure out adjustments for amount of mph it's off and compare to the G35's above. Minor setback but great tool to use for testing."

"On a positive note, I accidentally screwed up my saved gauges trying to save the run. Failed to save the run but I decided to set one of the 4 gauges to mph. I don't understand how this works but the ecu knows how fast I'm going even though the speedo is off? Set the cruise control at 60 on the speedo and the scanguage read 57? Son of a bitch. I love this cheap little device. You'd think I'm doing an extended commercial for it. Guess I'm a little exited about it because my 0-60 and 1/4 mile times are better than I thought."

My gps will show 56mph, scangauge 57mph and the speedo, 60mph. My tachometer is off 300-400 rpm. My kill list and stats verify the scangauge's accuracy and cares not for what my tachometer or speedo thinks. The next t&t day is the end of this month. I might get out to the beach prior to that.

 

[DatMan]

You were right about completely sealing it off from the bay D-man. I didn't think a little bay air would make a diff because of the easy access to all the cool air from below but it does. It's 100% sealed off now and the temps rise slower at idle and drop faster while driving. Best I've seen so far and short of figuring out just how to inject water pre-maf, I don't think the iat's are going to get any better than they are now.

Yeah... Unless it's sealed off, the vacuum created by the intake will pull air from EVERYWHERE... But if you seal the box, it'll only pull air from where you want it to, which is the cold outside air... Now I really want to make a box like yours!!! I love the look of my LMS intake, so I don't want to wrap it, although I'm sure it makes a huge difference... :P

 

[DatMan]

Anybody know what Nissan truck shares the front differential with the 1st gen. FX?

Shouldn't be any trucks... Only cars... The FM midship platform was only used on the FX (SUV) and cars... The Pathfinder is built on the same chassis as the Altima and Maxima (and quite a few other cars)...

So just the FX, Z, and G cars... The GT-R was built on a modified FM midship platform so most of it's drivetrain parts won't be interchangeable, and the R34 was built on a different chassis I believe...

 

[onthemove]

Not sure what the LMS intake is made from but if it's metal, wrapping it will keep the iat's down for sure. You don't like my Home D special HVAC wrap? I planned on wrapping it with some Heatshield Performance cobra skin which looks pretty neat but just can't bring myself to spend $70 when I know it will do little if any better. I might use some of the leftover DEI heat shield. We'll see.
I asked about the front diff because I'd like to swap gears to 3.9-4.1 and thought Nissan uses the same transmission in their trucks so why wouldn't they use the same diff's and gears. Gears are available for the rear but gotta match the front. F'n AWD!

 

[DatMan]

Not sure what the LMS intake is made from but if it's metal, wrapping it will keep the iat's down for sure. You don't like my Home D special HVAC wrap? I planned on wrapping it with some Heatshield Performance cobra skin which looks pretty neat but just can't bring myself to spend $70 when I know it will do little if any better. I might use some of the leftover DEI heat shield. We'll see.
I asked about the front diff because I'd like to swap gears to 3.9-4.1 and thought Nissan uses the same transmission in their trucks so why wouldn't they use the same diff's and gears. Gears are available for the rear but gotta match the front. F'n AWD!

LMS is definitely metal... But it's so pretty... :P

I don't know if they'd use the same differential as the FM platform is RWD and the Maxima platform is FWD... And FWD usually builds the differential into the transmission... But with trucks, you'd be looking at the ARMADA or the QX80... Or Titan I guess, as they're the only ones that are RWD based and would need a front diff... And pretty sure they're a lot different than what the FM platform uses...

 

[gto]

So Pat is correct by asking for a truck. Aftermarket Rear can be had from the Z

 

[gto]

On Intake, I'd also hate to cover my so pretty weaved carbon tube. It gets warm but never too hot to touch. Curious how much it repels heat.
And in regards to Laminar flow, I noticed a bit more growl & response vs. the smooth Z tube that was on there prior. The inside of tube is also textured (resin slick), outside polished. Its fed with a Cone, Stillen Velocity Stack to the OEM accordian connector.

Any ideas what I can do to shave a second with this Intake setup?

 

[onthemove]

My advice would be to take the info on the previous pages and use as much of it as possible. Replacing the t.b. to pipe and MAF housing to pipe connections with smooth silicone couplers is simple, inexpensive and should help the engine breath a little easier. The transitions from one piece to the next are areas where air gets hung up and causes turbulence as well as the flex ridges on the 2 rubber couplers.

 

[onthemove]

This is going to be a pita for sure. I jacked up the FX tonight and sized up the potential ram air "scoop" I thought I wanted to make. Now I'm not so sure.
Rather than refer to it as ram air, I suppose it would be correct to instead call it pressurized air? As I wrote previously about this set up, I believe that there might be negative pressure in this area which would have an increasingly negative effect the faster I go.
At first I thought it would be easy enough to essentially mold a scoop. It's not going to be easy but it's doable. I started prepping the area for it and have a partial card board prototype. I shaved some material at the opening of the air filter cavity in pic 1. I used the heat gun and changed the contour of areas on the wheel well in several areas. The filter is much more visible now thus it's probably breathing a bit easier which is swell but I'm thinking rather than doing a scoop which would be slightly visible from the bottom of the bumper and probably fairly effective, I need to cut into the bumper itself in the area below and to the right of the fog light in pic 4. The entire bottom that's completely open now would be closed off and air would enter via the opening in the bumper as well as the new opening behind the grill. I would have to do a perfect job and probably have something to trim out the edges of this new opening. I'm gonna let the idea stew before I decide to possibly destroy my bumper fascia.

 

[DatMan]

Its fed with a Cone, Stillen Velocity Stack to the OEM accordian connector.

That Velocity Stack... Is that the spacer behind the throttle body? Or is it right after the cone?

My LMS intake is a bit longer, so I think there's a connection to the TB and then the cone connects directly to it on the other end... So old I can't remember a thing... I'll have to clean it pretty soon so I'll take a look under there and hopefully clean up the engine bay while I'm at it! Getting a radiator brace from Dragon soon too

 

[DatMan]

This is going to be a pita for sure. I jacked up the FX tonight and sized up the potential ram air "scoop" I thought I wanted to make. Now I'm not so sure.

Someone on the other site a LONG time ago created a scoop for his air box... Don't remember if it was the OEM box or the STILLEN box... Made the air scoop with a vaccuum head and tube, and drilled through what he needed with a hole saw... If I can find the original thread, I'll send it to you...

 

[StuLax18]

That's exactly what I thought of as well, the vacuum scoop!

Stillen velocity stack is metal, and the filter attaches to that, and the stack attaches to the MAF sensor.

 

[onthemove]

Hey, thanks for that D-man. I didn't have access to the photos but what was written helped paint a picture. I guess the concept behind the pressurized air box vs ram air is that there is no direct, preferably bend-free way to truly ram the air in, so to speak. When I think of ram air I think about the old trans am ws6. Pressurizing the air box or in my case the air filter cavity is an attempt to exceed the engines air needs so that there's more than enough air available making it easier for the engine to draw it in rather than the air possibly being drawn out of this potentially negative pressure area or in other words, making a negative zone a positive one. I'd like to force air in through the cut out I made in the core support but there's really no effective way to do it without cutting into the bumper in the area between the grill and head light to below the headlight and that'll just look weird.