onthemove MOD's

Thanks D-man. It's a pita but a labor of love. The only time I really cleaned it was back in August when I did the wire tuck'n. Since, I've rinsed it twice while washing the FX and after rinsing I start it up and let it run while I blow it off with a leaf blower. Takes like 5 minutes but keeps it clean.
 
I've had a couple of details with engine bay cleaning, but still never looks that good... Plus I also meant clean and NEAT! My FX is a tangle of hoses and wires all over the place...
 
I can tell you I've found no magic cleaner to get the bay clean all by itself. Just spraying some of these off the shelf products will partially clean and/or shine some shit up, but it's really just clinging to the dirt and oil. Degreaser will get the bulk of the crap that makes the bay look so shitty but after that, dish soap mixed with water and brake cleaner always applied to the rag is how I did it, and that goes for everything in the bay, metal or rubber.
Getting it clean is a lot easier without the hoses and wires all over the place. There's a lot of info on this thread on how to deal with all that bull shit. Do little things, one area at a time, until you build confidence and then you can tackle larger, more complex things. There's quite a few relatively easy deletes and relocations in here. I know a guy with a 350z who took months cleaning up his bay in a similar way that I did. You can always pm me if you need questions answered.
 
Would LOVE to do it... Again, not sure if I have the patience for it LOL!

I've read this whole thread... Some of the tucks I'd want to do but I'd rather not do deletes, and some of the hose relocations... Still saving up $$$ for some mods I've been putting off for a LONG time, so gonna get those done first and go slow this year... :P Just paid off some old bills that emptied my extra earnings this month LOL...
 
I got a reply from Raymond from a post I left on his thread 7/17 - Ray's Boost
I didn't get any answers to the questions I asked yet. Figured I'd do him a solid and get his thread and a photo up. This body kit and these wheels are still for sale. Might want to pm him if you're interested.

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I remember his build... I wasn't there for when he finished but followed his thread till I went MIA... That body kit is SWEET but it really needs the grill to finish it off... Could you imagine that bumper and a stock grill... ... ...?

Side skirts are nice too... I forget what the back looks like, but for some reason I think I remember not really liking what he did in the back...
 
Yeah, everyone's got there own taste. I like most of what I've seen regarding body work, just not on my FX. The designers did such a good job, who am I to fuck with it? I'm not qualified!
There is one FX that I consider to be one of the if not the baddest looking rides on the road. I used to have it as my screen saver. 2 door dark purple FX. I never could find anything about it and only found one photo of it. Damn that thing looked bad ass. I wonder who owns it now, if they'd be willing to sell and for how much.
 
This filter is ridiculous. It's a lamp shade. Put a tassel on top and you got a shriner's hat. I'll take a comparison pic of this to my existing filter when the 4" coupler gets here. I bet my existing filter will fit inside of this one. It's 12" x 7.5. It's the biggest filter k&n makes with a 6" flange. The 6" flange is to attach the blox velocity stack. I realize now that what I've read about how the larger intake pipe makes power is true in that it increases velocity just like this stack, so technically there's 2 velocity increasing points, 5" down to 4" (filter & stack to pipe) and 4" down to 3" (intake pipe to t.b.). The existing k&n filter actually had a semi built in stack, really a rounded edge as opposed to a hard or flat edge but it's no comparison to an actual velocity stack.
I almost went with an injen or an apexi this time. I came across a test done by a tuner using 8 (?) different intake filters. Apexi, amsoil, k&n, hks foam, etc. The k&n came in 3rd for flow but it was also one of if not the smallest filters in the test. Best to get the most filter area as possible. The filter that's being replaced looks older than the panel filter I had for 12 + years. That poor thing took a beat'n. I'll keep the old and busted to use for a little top secret experiment I've got planned for this spring/summer.
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2 door FX?!
Yeah buddy, cut that thang in 1/2. I'll try to find that damn photo again this weekend unless someone sees these posts and gets it up first. IMO, best looking FX BY FAR and one of my all time fav's, period. It's a front 1/4 view pic, so can't really see it from the side or rear.
I'd love to do something like that and might as well chop the top around 2" as well. Custom drive shaft, shortening brake and fuel lines, head liner, what ya gonna do with the back seat, show car quality paint job to do it justice, probably looking at 20k +.
 
Ya'll think this has been photoshopped? Say it ain't so.
I'm 99% sure I found this guy on some old post on either this or another FX forum. He didn't have too many posts and this is a 45 iirc. That doesn't mean this is real, but it looks real to me.
 
New vs not so old. This filter is huge. I need to make a new air box top. It's on for now but without the great seal it once had. No biggy.
I did the 4" intake thinking it would work but I wasn't sure, so I wanted to keep my potential losses to a minimum if it didn't pan out. It's panned out in a major way and with this last mod, I just wish I would've done it all at the same time. OH WELL.
The old fits into the new (pic 2).
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The filter barely fit in this cavity. I had to remove some of the core support to make room and move the a/c lines a bit more (pics 1 & 2) and I cut out the old bracket on top in pic 2. I also had to cut another inch off the pipe, an inch off the coupler and 1/2" off the filter's flange. The stack is installed deep into the filter so that the curves on the stack negate the hard edge on the inside of the filter. Will this help at all? Beats the shit out of me but I needed to do this to get the stack to clear the side of the strut tower as well. I also used the heat gun to reshape part of the wheel well liner so air could get to this area as well. (pic 4). The way the filter fits inside the cavity reminds me of how most cai intakes I've seen fit. Tight. Difference is this ones got access to a hellofalot more air.
I added just shy of 2 lbs. Shit.
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Did a little 0-60 test n tune last night.
large filter + vel. stack + air box = 5.6 iat's 10* over
small filter - stack - air box = 5.6 iat's 40* over
large filter - stack - air box = 5.8 iat's 40* over
2.4 60' times and near 300' distance to cover 0-60 mph which is similar to what happened with extending the intake pipe 18" and adding a 45* bend to get the filter down low except that set up KILLED performance. Seems like the large filter and/or the velocity stack are hurting performance as well. Didn't see that coming. If only there was more room, I could have my cake and eat that shit but there isn't so I fear I'll be forced to leave some meat on the bone which is a damn shame when trying to wring every last drop of power from a n.a. stock block.
Without the air box, iat's went through the roof. 40* over ambient! Hot damn. At wot they went up and with normal driving, they SLOWLY came down and settled around 75*. On a 45* night like last night, that's 20* over what they were with the air box and even worse at wot (85*?!?).
Even though I cut the pipe down a bit, it's still longer (2"?) because of the vel. stack. The air box really hugs the top and side of the large filter, possibly negating the added filter surface area and rendering 50% of the velocity stack damn near useless. Ima test this again very soon and if no definitive conclusion can be drawn, I'll bring both set ups to the track which will let me test'em side by side and let me test the accuracy of the scanguage as well.
 
It's got to be the lack of available air to the top and side of the filter that's responsible for the poor performance. 2" of added length isn't going to make or brake the intake though I can cut it down more to make up for the stack. For now, I made a temporary top for the air box (pics 6 and 7) and reshaped the wheel liner giving the filter some more breathing room. (pics 1 and 2). Pic 1 also has the temp. back of the air box and pic 2 shows the wheel side of the liner after reshaping. The coupler at the t.b. was just a little jacked up last night due to the stack and enormous filter not fitting well. I installed the stack cocked to one side, tilting the filter which allowed for everything to fall into place as it did with the smaller filter. If this were done anywhere else it would be a problem as I understand it but the filter is not necessarily a part of the intake. It's "pre-intake" until the very base of the filter or in this case, the velocity stack.
I'm 95% confident this will do the trick but time will tell. The air box is totally sealed off. Taped the shit out of it and will do the same when installing the old filter to test. While everything is apart for the header install, I plan to make a back and larger top for the air box, open up the core support so air can enter this cavity though the grill pre-radiator and possibly cut the blank rubber end off the large filter, chop up the old filer and use it to adhere filter media to this once useless part of the filter. I'm sure I can find a reliable epoxy to make the union.
Most filter companies aren't adding filter media to the end or installing inverted cones made of filter media like Apexi still is because it adds to much to the final cost and isn't worth it, so said Injen, once (still?) makers of Amsoil filters. Injen has a small built in stack but Amsoil doesn't because Amsoil sucks. I was told the added filter media in this area will increase flow by 7%. Guess most are racing around to make the cheapest filter within reason to compete among each other.

Edit 3/1/18 - spoke w a guy at Blox. Explained everything from intake to exhaust. It appears that I may have maxed out my old tune. Last tune was for the 4" pipe. Since, I did all the intake side mods that dropped my e.t. a 1/2 second. The tune and/or ecu is possibly no longer able to compensate fuel for the added air flow. Not getting another tune until the headers go on. Bummer.

Edit 3/4/18 - I think it is tune related though not so sure it's too lean. I think it's too rich. Ever since the 4" intake tune, I get a lot of soot at the exhaust tips. Back of the FX getting dusty quicker as well. I think my tuning maestro has got me a bit too rich and now this stupid huge filter along with the stack is making it difficult for the ecu/uprev to make the right adjustment.
The time it takes soot to noticeably build up in the exhaust tips has decreased. Them shits gets black quick now. I've read many say you'll run too lean with this or that minus a tune but I've read a few that have indicated just the opposite and they made compelling arguments. Guess I'll find out soon enough.

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Made a few more tweeks while waiting on the tomei's. Finally got tracking #'s for everything and should have it all in my hot hands next week.
I just had to figure out why my times slipped 1/2 a second. After opening up the core support a bit (pic 1), cutting a large section of the bumper out from behind the grill and removing an odd blockage that wraps the corner on top of the crash bar (pic 2), consisting of a flimsy plastic panel and some core support fiber material as well as enlarging the height of the latest prototype air box and further reshaping of the plastic wheel well, iat's stay noticeably lower longer and drop faster while accelerating from idle and times are back on track. Best so far was 5.0 seconds @ 259' a few weeks back and just got the time below yesterday. So, the 5 flat is barely a 5 flat while the 5.2 is damn near a 5 flat. The feet traveled is a nice compliment and helps make sense of the lack of data points regarding time.
It appears as though the stack & filter were and still are being choked off a bit. There's more I can and will do and will take more detailed photos in case anyone should chose to follow in my footsteps. My launching was suffering a bit as well. First run, got a 2.4 60' and 5.8 0-60 and then it occurred that I had subconsciously changed the way I operate the brake and gas pedals from a dig. I'll go to the strip once these headers are on and onthemove's tune is adjusted and make a vid.
A couple pages back in this thread I added an abs plastic panel and fixed it to the frame with 2 oem fasteners. The hope was that as the heat in the bay builds up (some bleeding out from the "ridge vent" mod but some still building up) it will bleed out below as the hot air displaces the cooler ambient air but this abs panel will keep the bled off hot air out of the air box cavity. This hotter air eventually spills out below only to get around my little blockade then rise right up into the air box cavity. I know this is occurring, especially on a heat soaked bay.
These 2 openings are helping the cause for cooler iat's. I think the opening of the core support and this odd blocked off area with the flimsy plastic panel allows more air to enter this air box cavity but at idle, it helps any heat building up in the air box cavity to bleed out because the tops of these two areas are high up in the air box and above the top of the air filter while venting outside of the bay. I'm sure there's a great reason Infiniti blocked this area off on both sides :rolleyes: but I think I'm going to do the same on the other side which should help alleviate hot air from the bay at idle.
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