onthemove MOD's
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onthemove
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So this should be the last set of recorded times until the headers come in, assuming Tomei gets them done by the 2nd deadline being 2/20. I'm adding the "parachute delete" mod to my shit list. I'll probably have to pull the mufflers to make it nice and conform to the contours in this area. While I'm down there there's a few more things that could be improved upon without cutting off the bottom of the engine bay from air flow.
Same spot I got the times at last night and the prior 1/4 run. Similar ambient temps though iat's are 9* lower this time? It's good to see but no cam timing advance benefits once below mid 80's iirc. The idle is also resting at 750 whereas 687-712 was it's typical range prior to the intake, plenum and t.b. mods. I've pulled the +/- terminals on the battery so many times this past week that it might have finally settled in now. The scanguage is dogging me on the 60' times, this I know.
Same spot I got the times at last night and the prior 1/4 run. Similar ambient temps though iat's are 9* lower this time? It's good to see but no cam timing advance benefits once below mid 80's iirc. The idle is also resting at 750 whereas 687-712 was it's typical range prior to the intake, plenum and t.b. mods. I've pulled the +/- terminals on the battery so many times this past week that it might have finally settled in now. The scanguage is dogging me on the 60' times, this I know.
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onthemove
Member
Here's a snippet from a 350z site NWP 75mm throttle body - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion
"...Did some track tests with a bolt 350z using stock intake and a bolt on maxima with the 4in intake pictured in this thread. 350z did 3 runs stock TB all 3 runs were 14.1@99, was only able to do 1 run with the 75mm 14.05@99 all runs had 2.0 60fts DA was 1500ASL. Maxima stock TB with 4in intake 14.8@101 with 75mm 14.2@101..."
The 4" intake along with a 75mm t.b. is a really big deal when staying naturally aspirated. Edit - it should really benefit the Stillen supercharger as well. Interesting how the maxima gained in the 1/4 but mph showed no improvement. My results were very similar but I also put some work into the rest of the intake. Those damn fwd nissans always take to mods so well.
Waiting on some supplies to do a few more things while waiting on the headers. I need the down time anyways. I wonder what various shops would charge to do what I've done so far and what would the results be? I know every time someone else worked on it there was something new damaged somewhere yet when I work on it, 0 damage. Huh. (edit - the 1 and only perf. shop the FX has been to never damaged anything either and sure, I almost blew up my transmission)
Removed a lip and shaved two wide, low hanging areas on the core support that may have tied the old bottom engine cover. I might consider making a simple cover that would leave the sides open, connecting the front bumper between the bumper material and core support to the k member. From what I've read, the rear end drag coefficient is the biggest issue (see quote below).
I'm missing the center clip on either side but still, the gaps are large and facing the wrong way if one were taking aerodynamics into consideration which Infiniti clearly was not. The rear under body of the FX is a mess. I cleaned areas to make sure the tape would stick and taped the shit out of the rear. This is the best I'm willing to do without making a prototype which idt is necessary. The "parachute bumper delete" will be made on the fly with the mufflers removed. Down force for handling and drag co. for straight line performance.
Drag coefficient Cd of a few crossovers;
03-08 FX35 .35-------2014 QX70 .36-------2017 QX70 .35--------2017 QX50 .33-------Maserate Lavente S .31
"Conclusion; Flow separation is responsible for the major portion of aerodynamic drag of racing cars. The aerodynamic drag coefficient of the car model used here is found to be 0.3233. The main design consideration to reduce the drag of any bluff should be- keep the flow attached to the body as much as possible. That means maintaining streamline shape, reducing surface roughness, fewer joints of the body or avoiding sharp fillets, controlling lift force, air or exhaust gas flow towards the low pressure zone at the rear portion of the car etc. These must be considered while designing a car for higher speed and acceleration as well as for better fuel efficiency and control.
Aerodynamic drag reduction by rear under body modification results in up to 22.13% and rear under-body diffuser results 9.5% reduction of drag coefficient. Exhaust gas redirecting towards the low pressure zone at the rear of the car is proved to be effective tosome extent, which paves the way of future improvement for future researchers. About 3.3% drag coefficient can be reduced by this procedure considering the ideal exhaust gas composition."
Edit - I went out of town yesterday. Lots of high speed highway driving. No ill effects from the not-so-prototyped prototype parachute bumper delete. Did feel more stable and not as easily tossed around by cross wind but could all be in my head? Not sure about better mileage - no good reference. Messing with under body aerodynamics could easily go the wrong way. At this point, no negatives for sure. Will get a 1/4 mile time when project complete to verify the 1 mph improvement and maybe an extra 1 mph if I do a good job with the details.
"...Did some track tests with a bolt 350z using stock intake and a bolt on maxima with the 4in intake pictured in this thread. 350z did 3 runs stock TB all 3 runs were 14.1@99, was only able to do 1 run with the 75mm 14.05@99 all runs had 2.0 60fts DA was 1500ASL. Maxima stock TB with 4in intake 14.8@101 with 75mm 14.2@101..."
The 4" intake along with a 75mm t.b. is a really big deal when staying naturally aspirated. Edit - it should really benefit the Stillen supercharger as well. Interesting how the maxima gained in the 1/4 but mph showed no improvement. My results were very similar but I also put some work into the rest of the intake. Those damn fwd nissans always take to mods so well.
Waiting on some supplies to do a few more things while waiting on the headers. I need the down time anyways. I wonder what various shops would charge to do what I've done so far and what would the results be? I know every time someone else worked on it there was something new damaged somewhere yet when I work on it, 0 damage. Huh. (edit - the 1 and only perf. shop the FX has been to never damaged anything either and sure, I almost blew up my transmission)
Removed a lip and shaved two wide, low hanging areas on the core support that may have tied the old bottom engine cover. I might consider making a simple cover that would leave the sides open, connecting the front bumper between the bumper material and core support to the k member. From what I've read, the rear end drag coefficient is the biggest issue (see quote below).
I'm missing the center clip on either side but still, the gaps are large and facing the wrong way if one were taking aerodynamics into consideration which Infiniti clearly was not. The rear under body of the FX is a mess. I cleaned areas to make sure the tape would stick and taped the shit out of the rear. This is the best I'm willing to do without making a prototype which idt is necessary. The "parachute bumper delete" will be made on the fly with the mufflers removed. Down force for handling and drag co. for straight line performance.
Drag coefficient Cd of a few crossovers;
03-08 FX35 .35-------2014 QX70 .36-------2017 QX70 .35--------2017 QX50 .33-------Maserate Lavente S .31
"Conclusion; Flow separation is responsible for the major portion of aerodynamic drag of racing cars. The aerodynamic drag coefficient of the car model used here is found to be 0.3233. The main design consideration to reduce the drag of any bluff should be- keep the flow attached to the body as much as possible. That means maintaining streamline shape, reducing surface roughness, fewer joints of the body or avoiding sharp fillets, controlling lift force, air or exhaust gas flow towards the low pressure zone at the rear portion of the car etc. These must be considered while designing a car for higher speed and acceleration as well as for better fuel efficiency and control.
Aerodynamic drag reduction by rear under body modification results in up to 22.13% and rear under-body diffuser results 9.5% reduction of drag coefficient. Exhaust gas redirecting towards the low pressure zone at the rear of the car is proved to be effective tosome extent, which paves the way of future improvement for future researchers. About 3.3% drag coefficient can be reduced by this procedure considering the ideal exhaust gas composition."
Edit - I went out of town yesterday. Lots of high speed highway driving. No ill effects from the not-so-prototyped prototype parachute bumper delete. Did feel more stable and not as easily tossed around by cross wind but could all be in my head? Not sure about better mileage - no good reference. Messing with under body aerodynamics could easily go the wrong way. At this point, no negatives for sure. Will get a 1/4 mile time when project complete to verify the 1 mph improvement and maybe an extra 1 mph if I do a good job with the details.
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The FX is still based on the FM midship platform which was actually designed with good underbody aerodynamics for it's time... There are a lot of other cars out there that have a MUCH bigger mess when you look underneath... Hate to say it, but pretty much every American made car looks like an absolute mess from underneath...
onthemove
Member
I figured I'd throw up this tally I've got going on up to this point. The headers are in here even though they haven't arrived yet. The shift kit ran a little higher than it should've
. I spent on 4 wheels what most spend on one. Some of this is maintenance, some to rejuvenate and the rest to attempt to improve upon the FX. Other than typical bullshit like oil changes, the kumho tires that lasted all of 2 years and little miscellaneous whatnots, excluding the cash I laid down when I bought the tank, this is pretty much everything I've spent on it since I bought it near a decade and a 1/2 ago and it's all been done within the last 1 1/2 years. Slow start at the beginning but now I'm haul'n ass.
Haven't vinyl wrapped the fading window trim just yet. Got new materials. These days, 3m 1080 is junk imo. Replaced that trash with Avery and installing it soon.
AS OF 1/26/18 LAST & BEST 0-60 259' @ 5.0 sec. & 1/4 mile of 13.8 @ 103
------- INSTALLED PARTS & COSTS -------
(edited 2/12 - had tensioner pulleys twice and added misc b.s.)
⦁ SUSPENSION - Camber/toe bolts & bit $132, Springs $278, Shocks/struts $260, Front wheel bearings $160,
Total - $830
⦁ DRIVETRAIN - Diff oil $50, Transfer case & transmission oil $90, Shift kit $950
Total - $1090
⦁ WHEELS & BRAKES - Advanti $755, Lug nuts $65, Spacers $272, Conti tires $1000, Powerstop rotors/pads $380, S.S. lines $125, Caliper G2 epoxy $55
Total - $2652
⦁ ENGINE - UR Pulleys $330, V plenum $255, Tune/Uprev $1015, OEM O2's $340, Oil C.C. $120, 4" Intake $250, Tune/knock sensor $440, Iridium plugs $60, Radiator $105, Tensioner pulleys $70, 75mm T.B. & plug $190, T.B. adaptor plate $140, Wire tuck $100, Aramid gasket $40 Total - $3425
⦁ INTERIOR/EXTERIOR - Windshield $300, Hood lifts $50, Fuel cap & clips $22, Leather repair/dye/prep $175, PDR $225, Grill $172, Paint correction $200, Door actuator fix $80, Vinyl wrap trim $100
Total - $1329
⦁ EXHAUST - INVIDIA $850, HFC $400, Tomei headers $860 Total - $2110
⦁ MISC. BULLSHIT - $300
⦁ COMING SOON - Nitrous
TOTAL AS OF 1/18 - $11,736
. I spent on 4 wheels what most spend on one. Some of this is maintenance, some to rejuvenate and the rest to attempt to improve upon the FX. Other than typical bullshit like oil changes, the kumho tires that lasted all of 2 years and little miscellaneous whatnots, excluding the cash I laid down when I bought the tank, this is pretty much everything I've spent on it since I bought it near a decade and a 1/2 ago and it's all been done within the last 1 1/2 years. Slow start at the beginning but now I'm haul'n ass.Haven't vinyl wrapped the fading window trim just yet. Got new materials. These days, 3m 1080 is junk imo. Replaced that trash with Avery and installing it soon.
AS OF 1/26/18 LAST & BEST 0-60 259' @ 5.0 sec. & 1/4 mile of 13.8 @ 103
------- INSTALLED PARTS & COSTS -------
(edited 2/12 - had tensioner pulleys twice and added misc b.s.)
⦁ SUSPENSION - Camber/toe bolts & bit $132, Springs $278, Shocks/struts $260, Front wheel bearings $160,
Total - $830
⦁ DRIVETRAIN - Diff oil $50, Transfer case & transmission oil $90, Shift kit $950
Total - $1090
⦁ WHEELS & BRAKES - Advanti $755, Lug nuts $65, Spacers $272, Conti tires $1000, Powerstop rotors/pads $380, S.S. lines $125, Caliper G2 epoxy $55
Total - $2652
⦁ ENGINE - UR Pulleys $330, V plenum $255, Tune/Uprev $1015, OEM O2's $340, Oil C.C. $120, 4" Intake $250, Tune/knock sensor $440, Iridium plugs $60, Radiator $105, Tensioner pulleys $70, 75mm T.B. & plug $190, T.B. adaptor plate $140, Wire tuck $100, Aramid gasket $40 Total - $3425
⦁ INTERIOR/EXTERIOR - Windshield $300, Hood lifts $50, Fuel cap & clips $22, Leather repair/dye/prep $175, PDR $225, Grill $172, Paint correction $200, Door actuator fix $80, Vinyl wrap trim $100
Total - $1329
⦁ EXHAUST - INVIDIA $850, HFC $400, Tomei headers $860 Total - $2110
⦁ MISC. BULLSHIT - $300
⦁ COMING SOON - Nitrous
TOTAL AS OF 1/18 - $11,736
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onthemove
Member
After an hour of city driving I pulled in the garage, turned the FX off and popped the hood. V-plenum was cool, throttle body was cold, 3-4" silicone coupler was cool, intake pipe and pipe insulation were cool yet iat's were still approx 20* above ambient. They always creep back up fast when backing up into the garage. There's got to be more to the iat's than radiant heat in the bay.
I'm thinking about replacing the maf to find out if it's a little tired. I'll need a spare anyways for a near-future water injection mod ima try out so the old maf will be the test subject.
I'm thinking about replacing the maf to find out if it's a little tired. I'll need a spare anyways for a near-future water injection mod ima try out so the old maf will be the test subject.
onthemove
Member
Your implying that's low I hope, right? I planned on 25-30k or more if it was necessary for the drive train alone at first but once I started reading this FX forum as well as the g/z forums, JR's auto trans issues, the multiple failures and mo fo's just abandoning their shit, it became apparent that I might be flushing big loot down the toilet. So now I'm on the Sanford & Son, common sense, less = more budget build kick instead.
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onthemove
Member
I didn't reference an existing thread for vinyl wrap and figured it was a waste to start another, so I threw the pics on this thread.
3M 1080 imo is shit. Brand new, it was all marked up. Looked like the product got caught in a bad way during the production process. Just full of scuff marks, full of'em! They said, "oh, yeah, that happens sometimes and you can try to get it out with heat". How about you take your garbage back, cram it up your ass and I'll buy a product that's a sure fire deal and that doesn't require more work because it's not defective, jackass . They did, well, don't know if they crammed it up their ass or not, but they took they're trash back and I bought some Avery. Much better.
The 1st 4 photos are a side by side comparison. Once I cleaned the trim pieces, they greyed out big time. Never saw the trim like that as I've been ICING them for years. I messed up one trim piece on each window and several pieces multiple times. Did not remove anything. Removing the mirrors might have made things a little easier(?). I found this to be the most tedious project I've done on the FX thus far. I cannot imagine wrapping the whole damn thing. Props to those that have. Wrapping is not my bag but nonetheless and thankfully, it turned out well.
The Avery black is a great match.
3M 1080 imo is shit. Brand new, it was all marked up. Looked like the product got caught in a bad way during the production process. Just full of scuff marks, full of'em! They said, "oh, yeah, that happens sometimes and you can try to get it out with heat". How about you take your garbage back, cram it up your ass and I'll buy a product that's a sure fire deal and that doesn't require more work because it's not defective, jackass . They did, well, don't know if they crammed it up their ass or not, but they took they're trash back and I bought some Avery. Much better.
The 1st 4 photos are a side by side comparison. Once I cleaned the trim pieces, they greyed out big time. Never saw the trim like that as I've been ICING them for years. I messed up one trim piece on each window and several pieces multiple times. Did not remove anything. Removing the mirrors might have made things a little easier(?). I found this to be the most tedious project I've done on the FX thus far. I cannot imagine wrapping the whole damn thing. Props to those that have. Wrapping is not my bag but nonetheless and thankfully, it turned out well.
The Avery black is a great match.
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Nice work! I had my trim replaced under warranty JUST before it expired so I'm still good for a little longer although I might have to revisit that idea this spring... Looking to wrap some internal pieces with carbon fiber wrap... Someone found some glossy that looked REALLY nice... Might attempt to wrap some exterior pieces with it too, such as these trim pieces...
onthemove
Member
You know D-man, if it weren't for all your likes, I think I'd have 10. Ha!
Now I need to figure out why my passenger side doors aren't lined up. I noticed this before but seeing it in the photos makes me mad.
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onthemove
Member
Interesting iat info on a vette forum that I thought I'd toss on here. Lots more on the link. Some good info.
Lowering IAT's = FREE Horsepower - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion
"Here is a graph of a log I made of the Stock air intake system. Its about 45 minutes long. Note how the IAT increase as the vehicle speed decreased (right side of graph). Only mod to the car are ceramic coated ARH mid length headers."
I got under the FX, stared at this rear bumper parachute area and threw in the towel. That's just too much work. I don't have the skill level or the proper tools to build a lower body panel like this. It's above my pay grade, which on the FX is 0. That's pretty fuck'n low. This is something that will wait until the engine, trans and whatever else comes out. This is assuming that one of the big 3 known vq performance shops I end up going with knows of a good body shop and knows them well.
Everything I did under here held up fine, through a rain even. Screw it. I did remove and replace most of the tape, beefed up the area near the driver side exhaust tip which was concaved a bit and used a supposed near bullet-proof hvac tape, so we'll see how it holds up. It's serving it's purpose, just looks like ass and is a red-neck fix for sure. I'm not a red-neck, though I do live in the south, so here's my tribute.
Lowering IAT's = FREE Horsepower - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion
"Here is a graph of a log I made of the Stock air intake system. Its about 45 minutes long. Note how the IAT increase as the vehicle speed decreased (right side of graph). Only mod to the car are ceramic coated ARH mid length headers."
I got under the FX, stared at this rear bumper parachute area and threw in the towel. That's just too much work. I don't have the skill level or the proper tools to build a lower body panel like this. It's above my pay grade, which on the FX is 0. That's pretty fuck'n low. This is something that will wait until the engine, trans and whatever else comes out. This is assuming that one of the big 3 known vq performance shops I end up going with knows of a good body shop and knows them well.
Everything I did under here held up fine, through a rain even. Screw it. I did remove and replace most of the tape, beefed up the area near the driver side exhaust tip which was concaved a bit and used a supposed near bullet-proof hvac tape, so we'll see how it holds up. It's serving it's purpose, just looks like ass and is a red-neck fix for sure. I'm not a red-neck, though I do live in the south, so here's my tribute.
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Mine from the factory were perfect... Didn't line up after the replacement...Looks like it's just the bottom window trim on the pass side that, for whatever reason doesn't line up. I'll smack it with a hammer
Should have kept them factory and wrapped them myself, but hindsight is always 20/20 so I'm guessing yours were replaced somewhere along the line too...About the IAT's, that sounds about right... Moving car = Moving air... Faster moving car = Faster moving air = Outside air pushing out hot air from the engine bay...
onthemove
Member
It really comes down to air moving through the intake, not so much the FX moving, though that obviously doesn't hurt. I typically do a lot of reading before I make up my mind on something. I'd say I've easily spent 20 + hours researching the intake, from the filter to the lower manifold. Everything I've done so far has made a very positive impact on iat's, among other things, but there's more going on here and I just haven't found anyone yet willing to spill the beans or I'm over thinking it. Thinking it's got something to do with exhaust reversion.
I want to lock in these gains throughout the 4 seasons, not loose a bunch of power when summer sinks in. A drag strip tested low 13 auto of whatever sort will not walk away from me on a hot summer day if I can get this right.
I want to lock in these gains throughout the 4 seasons, not loose a bunch of power when summer sinks in. A drag strip tested low 13 auto of whatever sort will not walk away from me on a hot summer day if I can get this right.
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onthemove
Member
Here's my notes from figuring out what form of FI I was going to go with. I'm posting this because it might help someone out there get their shit together a bit more easily should they chose to go with a Vortech. It was a lot of work and I feel I can install the Vortech and everything to go along with it and probably trouble shoot most issues without digging back into my notes. I was soooo close to buying all this shit, so close.
I still love the idea of a rear mounted turbo and might do that on something someday but for the FX, n2o should get me where I want to go.
------- VORTECH V3 SCi -------
⦁ ENJUKURACING.COM BEST PRICE $4,290 Vortech Superchager Kit for Nissan 350Z
------- NECESSARY MODS FOR S.C. -------
GET FROM ANSREW @ ENJUKU RACING;
⦁ VORTECH "V3" SCI TUNER KIT (G35) ENJUKU RACING $4,290
⦁ WALBRO 255 LPH FUEL PUMP (GSS342) $85
⦁ INJECTORS - DW 600cc HI IMPDEDENCE DWS-21S-05-0600-6 $501
⦁ 1 STEP COLDER PLUGS HEAT RANGE 6 NGK LFR6AIX-11 $45
⦁ DERALE TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER ATOMIC T-STAT 13950 $180
⦁ DERALE ENGINE OIL COOLER ATOMIC T-STAT 15450 $203
⦁ ATI DAMPER (PART# 918588) (SIZE 6.78/6.61) $390
GET FROM Z1 MOTORSPORTS;
⦁ F.P. O-RING & GROMMET, CRANK P. SEAL, INJ. O-RINGS, VORTECH 90* 3.5" ELBOW, UPREV MAF GT, CRANK PULLEY BOLT
GET FROM AMAZON;
⦁ A/C BELT - ATI GATES BELTS; 33.86" LONG BELT
⦁ ALT SIDE - ATI GATES BELT FOR STOCK SETUP W/OUT SC 48.03" LONG
⦁ S.C. BELT - GATES GREEN HD BELTS 79", 79.5"(060790) & 801/8"(K060795)
⦁ IP40 Torx Plus Insert Bit TO ASSEMBLE ATI DAMPER
⦁ ANOTHER PAIR OF VISE GRIPS FOR ATI INSTALL
⦁ NYLON ROPE TO FILL CYLINDER FOR ATI PULLEY - MEASURE THICKNESS BEFORE BUYING
⦁ 7/16" & .070 OR .068 #50 DRILL BIT HOBBY SHOP ⦁ gyrostools.com item# 45-10250
⦁ SNAP RING PLIERS (FOR FUEL PUMP INSTALL)
⦁ WHITE LITHIUM GREASE FOR PULLEY INSTALL
⦁ LARGER AIR FILTER & INTAKE PIPE BEHIND HEADLIGHT W/HEAT SHIELD
⦁ REPLACE BLUE WITH BLACK SILICONE COUPLERS & GET T-BOLTS
TUNE - REV LIMIT 6,500 USING ATI CP (6.61) & SCP (3.33) = 53,200 SC RPM & SET IDLE TO 800 - 900 IF SC NOISEY
GET A SEPARATE TUNE & BELT THAT FITS WITHOUT THE SC HEAD UNIT W/ EVERYTHING ELSE INSTALLED IN CASE THE SC HAS TO BE REMOVED FOR REPAIR, I CAN STILL DRIVE THE FX
FUEL PUMP 255 WALBRO Genuine Walbro GSS342 255LPH Fuel Pump Infiniti G35 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 ------- HOW TO'S FOR S.C. ACCESSORIES -------
--- SUPERCHARGER INSTALL ---
⦁ https://www.infinitiscene.com/threa...-non-rev-up-tuner-kit-fits-03-08-fx35.133262/
⦁ vortech installed
⦁ Need to trim a little bit of the driver side shock tower, trim the bumper to fit the intercooler, remove the bumper support & tig weld intercooler piping.
--- FUEL PUMP INSTALL ---
⦁ http://host.cj-motorsports.com/pdf/350z Fuel Pump.pdf
⦁ Walbro GSS342 Installation (350z, G35, FX35, etc)
⦁ Factory Service Manuals - NICO Club
⦁ 2 DRILL BITS 7/64" & .070" -.068"(#50 DRILL BIT SOLD @ HOBBY SHOPS)
--- FUEL INJECTOR INSTALL ---
⦁ DeatschWerks 550 Fuel injector Install. PICS!!! - G35Driver - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion
⦁ PAGE 19 Factory Service Manuals - NICO Club
--- ATI DAMPER INSTALL ---
⦁ AUTOZONE RENTAL DAMPER PULLER & INSTALLER
⦁ WRAP OLD BELT AROUND CRANK PULLEY & ANOTHER & USE 2 PAIRS OF VISE GRIPS FOR 2 PINCH POINTS
⦁ PAGE 53 Factory Service Manuals - NICO Club
⦁ How to lock crank shaft while torquing central screw?
⦁ OR PULL A PLUG & USE ROPE TO FILL THE CYLINDER - easiest way to go
⦁ USE BRAKER BAR & EXTENSION PIPE OR ELECTRIC IMPACT WRENCH
⦁ REPLACE CRANK OIL SEAL & USE WHITE LITHIUM GREASE ON CRANK SHAFT
--- ENGINE & TRANS OIL COOLER INSTALLS ---
⦁ ENGINE OIL COOLER - INSTALL COOLER PORTS FACING SIDEWAYS / -8 to –10 FITTING SIZE / OIL FILTER THREAD PITCH 20MM X 1.5
DIY G35 DIY: Auxiliary Transmission Cooler w/ Inline Filter Install - G35Driver - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion
TRANSMISSION COOLER – INSTALL COOLER PORTS FACING SIDEWAYS - RUN INLINE WITH EXISTING BUILT-IN-RADIATOR TRANS OIL COOLER.
This thermostat is only reading and controlling (when it works...) the input fluid temp at the cooler. It DOES NOT mean that your transmission is operating between 165 and 180. By the time the fluid gets to the cooler, the radiator should have already dropped the fluid temp 10-15 degrees, which means that the transmission would be at 195-ish. If you want TRUE transmission temp control, you need to plumb your thermostat right at the output line coming off the transmission, and NOT the input at the cooler. So, it works great for me wired directly to the battery but using a relay and an inline circuit breaker and simply using its own thermostat. Pay attention carefully to the wiring diagram that comes with the cooler.
------- ATI CRANK PULLEY, BELTS & TIPS -------
ATI IS 15% OVERDRIVEN ON S.C. BELT & 32% UNDERDRIVEN FOR A/C
ATI BELTS; 33.86" LONG BELT FOR A/C DAYCO 5040338
S.C. BELT - GATES GREEN HD BELTS 79.5" - 801/8"
REMOVE PAINT FROM PULLEYS WHERE BELT MAKES CONTACT - NO SLIP
START WITH #1 BELOW;
⦁ ATI 6.61, 3.33 @ 6,500 SHIFT POINT = 53,200 SC RPM
⦁ ATI 6.61, 3.13 @ 6,500 SHIFT POINT = 56,600 SC RPM
⦁ ATI 6.61, 3.33 @ 6,800 SHIFT POINT = 55,700 SC RPM
⦁ FLUIDAMPR 6.13, 3.33 @ 6,800 SHIFT POINT = 51,600 SC RPM
⦁ FLUIDAMPR 6.13, 3.13 @ 6,800 SHIFT POINT = 54,400 SC RPM
⦁ STOCK PULLEY 5.75, 2.87 @ 6,800 SHIFT POINT = 56,200 SC RPM
⦁ 350Z SITE ABOUT VORTECH UNIT vortech FAQ: read this before asking vortech questions - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion
⦁ SET IDLE TO 900 RPM TO QUIET DOWN @ IDLE IF NECESSARY
⦁ BELT SLIP TIMROD1011 Vortech Belt Slip/noise Solution - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion
⦁ Animated Gif by Jason Wilberger
⦁ 7k rpms and 3.12 pulley is putting the vortech blower to it's recommended rpm limit, but if you're going to do that, I'd rather do the 2.87 pulley and a 6500-6600 rpm redline and get more torque which the vortech can use more of. Peak hp will be close to the same anyway. 400whp and 300 tq @ 7000 rpms and with the 3.12 pulley vs 400whp and 323 tq @ 6500 rpms with the 2.87 pulley the ⦁ fuel requirements are going to be about the same. At 2500 you will gain 20-40 tq depending on your breathing mods and ⦁ vortech pulley. The vortech feels like it really kicks in around 5000 rpms with the stock pulley, 4500 rpms with the 3.12 pulley, and around 4000 rpms with the 2.87 pulley (for non-REVUP kits).
⦁ TO QUIET THE BVP - Buy a small K&N f⦁ ilter and glue in some Black 1/4" think dense foam rubber. Add about a 6" piece of hose with a steel or aluminum hose adaptor and attach the filter.
⦁ LARGER INJECTORS & HOT/COLD START PROBLEMS? MAX HP FOR 600CC? MAYBE A DIFFERENT FUEL INJECTOR, NOT DW? "This is a tune issue. Cut all 5 prime pulse cranking tables in half and it should start fine." I couldn't fix my warm start issues NO MATTER WHAT until uprev unlocked the 4 new prime pulse tables. After a few tweaks on those new tables I now have quick, peppy startup no matter hot or cold. For those having issues still, make absolutely sure your tuner is using the LATEST version of ROM editor and that they address these new tables using the methods outlined in the email sent by Jared."
⦁ UPREV TUNING GUIDE; http://uprev.com/UpdateFiles/software/UpRev Nissan Tuning Guide.pdf
⦁ OIL GETTING INTO S.C. PIPING - vortech FAQ: read this before asking vortech questions - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion
320-335 whp, stock vortech tune with stock pulley and stock everything else on car (stock exhaust, cats, etc)
340-350 whp tuned
350-370 whp add exhaust, HF cats, plenum, and tuning
370-390 whp add 3.12 pulley and tuning
380-400 whp add headers and/or test pipes, and tuning
390-420 whp add 2.87 pulley and tuning
420-440 whp add cams and tuning
440-475 whp add water/meth injection, more timing, at least half race gas (96 octane or higher) and tuned
I still love the idea of a rear mounted turbo and might do that on something someday but for the FX, n2o should get me where I want to go.
------- VORTECH V3 SCi -------
⦁ ENJUKURACING.COM BEST PRICE $4,290 Vortech Superchager Kit for Nissan 350Z
------- NECESSARY MODS FOR S.C. -------
GET FROM ANSREW @ ENJUKU RACING;
⦁ VORTECH "V3" SCI TUNER KIT (G35) ENJUKU RACING $4,290
⦁ WALBRO 255 LPH FUEL PUMP (GSS342) $85
⦁ INJECTORS - DW 600cc HI IMPDEDENCE DWS-21S-05-0600-6 $501
⦁ 1 STEP COLDER PLUGS HEAT RANGE 6 NGK LFR6AIX-11 $45
⦁ DERALE TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER ATOMIC T-STAT 13950 $180
⦁ DERALE ENGINE OIL COOLER ATOMIC T-STAT 15450 $203
⦁ ATI DAMPER (PART# 918588) (SIZE 6.78/6.61) $390
GET FROM Z1 MOTORSPORTS;
⦁ F.P. O-RING & GROMMET, CRANK P. SEAL, INJ. O-RINGS, VORTECH 90* 3.5" ELBOW, UPREV MAF GT, CRANK PULLEY BOLT
GET FROM AMAZON;
⦁ A/C BELT - ATI GATES BELTS; 33.86" LONG BELT
⦁ ALT SIDE - ATI GATES BELT FOR STOCK SETUP W/OUT SC 48.03" LONG
⦁ S.C. BELT - GATES GREEN HD BELTS 79", 79.5"(060790) & 801/8"(K060795)
⦁ IP40 Torx Plus Insert Bit TO ASSEMBLE ATI DAMPER
⦁ ANOTHER PAIR OF VISE GRIPS FOR ATI INSTALL
⦁ NYLON ROPE TO FILL CYLINDER FOR ATI PULLEY - MEASURE THICKNESS BEFORE BUYING
⦁ 7/16" & .070 OR .068 #50 DRILL BIT HOBBY SHOP ⦁ gyrostools.com item# 45-10250
⦁ SNAP RING PLIERS (FOR FUEL PUMP INSTALL)
⦁ WHITE LITHIUM GREASE FOR PULLEY INSTALL
⦁ LARGER AIR FILTER & INTAKE PIPE BEHIND HEADLIGHT W/HEAT SHIELD
⦁ REPLACE BLUE WITH BLACK SILICONE COUPLERS & GET T-BOLTS
TUNE - REV LIMIT 6,500 USING ATI CP (6.61) & SCP (3.33) = 53,200 SC RPM & SET IDLE TO 800 - 900 IF SC NOISEY
GET A SEPARATE TUNE & BELT THAT FITS WITHOUT THE SC HEAD UNIT W/ EVERYTHING ELSE INSTALLED IN CASE THE SC HAS TO BE REMOVED FOR REPAIR, I CAN STILL DRIVE THE FX
FUEL PUMP 255 WALBRO Genuine Walbro GSS342 255LPH Fuel Pump Infiniti G35 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 ------- HOW TO'S FOR S.C. ACCESSORIES -------
--- SUPERCHARGER INSTALL ---
⦁ https://www.infinitiscene.com/threa...-non-rev-up-tuner-kit-fits-03-08-fx35.133262/
⦁ vortech installed
⦁ Need to trim a little bit of the driver side shock tower, trim the bumper to fit the intercooler, remove the bumper support & tig weld intercooler piping.
--- FUEL PUMP INSTALL ---
⦁ http://host.cj-motorsports.com/pdf/350z Fuel Pump.pdf
⦁ Walbro GSS342 Installation (350z, G35, FX35, etc)
⦁ Factory Service Manuals - NICO Club
⦁ 2 DRILL BITS 7/64" & .070" -.068"(#50 DRILL BIT SOLD @ HOBBY SHOPS)
--- FUEL INJECTOR INSTALL ---
⦁ DeatschWerks 550 Fuel injector Install. PICS!!! - G35Driver - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion
⦁ PAGE 19 Factory Service Manuals - NICO Club
--- ATI DAMPER INSTALL ---
⦁ AUTOZONE RENTAL DAMPER PULLER & INSTALLER
⦁ WRAP OLD BELT AROUND CRANK PULLEY & ANOTHER & USE 2 PAIRS OF VISE GRIPS FOR 2 PINCH POINTS
⦁ PAGE 53 Factory Service Manuals - NICO Club
⦁ How to lock crank shaft while torquing central screw?
⦁ OR PULL A PLUG & USE ROPE TO FILL THE CYLINDER - easiest way to go
⦁ USE BRAKER BAR & EXTENSION PIPE OR ELECTRIC IMPACT WRENCH
⦁ REPLACE CRANK OIL SEAL & USE WHITE LITHIUM GREASE ON CRANK SHAFT
--- ENGINE & TRANS OIL COOLER INSTALLS ---
⦁ ENGINE OIL COOLER - INSTALL COOLER PORTS FACING SIDEWAYS / -8 to –10 FITTING SIZE / OIL FILTER THREAD PITCH 20MM X 1.5
DIY G35 DIY: Auxiliary Transmission Cooler w/ Inline Filter Install - G35Driver - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion
TRANSMISSION COOLER – INSTALL COOLER PORTS FACING SIDEWAYS - RUN INLINE WITH EXISTING BUILT-IN-RADIATOR TRANS OIL COOLER.
This thermostat is only reading and controlling (when it works...) the input fluid temp at the cooler. It DOES NOT mean that your transmission is operating between 165 and 180. By the time the fluid gets to the cooler, the radiator should have already dropped the fluid temp 10-15 degrees, which means that the transmission would be at 195-ish. If you want TRUE transmission temp control, you need to plumb your thermostat right at the output line coming off the transmission, and NOT the input at the cooler. So, it works great for me wired directly to the battery but using a relay and an inline circuit breaker and simply using its own thermostat. Pay attention carefully to the wiring diagram that comes with the cooler.
------- ATI CRANK PULLEY, BELTS & TIPS -------
ATI IS 15% OVERDRIVEN ON S.C. BELT & 32% UNDERDRIVEN FOR A/C
ATI BELTS; 33.86" LONG BELT FOR A/C DAYCO 5040338
S.C. BELT - GATES GREEN HD BELTS 79.5" - 801/8"
REMOVE PAINT FROM PULLEYS WHERE BELT MAKES CONTACT - NO SLIP
START WITH #1 BELOW;
⦁ ATI 6.61, 3.33 @ 6,500 SHIFT POINT = 53,200 SC RPM
⦁ ATI 6.61, 3.13 @ 6,500 SHIFT POINT = 56,600 SC RPM
⦁ ATI 6.61, 3.33 @ 6,800 SHIFT POINT = 55,700 SC RPM
⦁ FLUIDAMPR 6.13, 3.33 @ 6,800 SHIFT POINT = 51,600 SC RPM
⦁ FLUIDAMPR 6.13, 3.13 @ 6,800 SHIFT POINT = 54,400 SC RPM
⦁ STOCK PULLEY 5.75, 2.87 @ 6,800 SHIFT POINT = 56,200 SC RPM
⦁ 350Z SITE ABOUT VORTECH UNIT vortech FAQ: read this before asking vortech questions - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion
⦁ SET IDLE TO 900 RPM TO QUIET DOWN @ IDLE IF NECESSARY
⦁ BELT SLIP TIMROD1011 Vortech Belt Slip/noise Solution - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion
⦁ Animated Gif by Jason Wilberger
⦁ 7k rpms and 3.12 pulley is putting the vortech blower to it's recommended rpm limit, but if you're going to do that, I'd rather do the 2.87 pulley and a 6500-6600 rpm redline and get more torque which the vortech can use more of. Peak hp will be close to the same anyway. 400whp and 300 tq @ 7000 rpms and with the 3.12 pulley vs 400whp and 323 tq @ 6500 rpms with the 2.87 pulley the ⦁ fuel requirements are going to be about the same. At 2500 you will gain 20-40 tq depending on your breathing mods and ⦁ vortech pulley. The vortech feels like it really kicks in around 5000 rpms with the stock pulley, 4500 rpms with the 3.12 pulley, and around 4000 rpms with the 2.87 pulley (for non-REVUP kits).
⦁ TO QUIET THE BVP - Buy a small K&N f⦁ ilter and glue in some Black 1/4" think dense foam rubber. Add about a 6" piece of hose with a steel or aluminum hose adaptor and attach the filter.
⦁ LARGER INJECTORS & HOT/COLD START PROBLEMS? MAX HP FOR 600CC? MAYBE A DIFFERENT FUEL INJECTOR, NOT DW? "This is a tune issue. Cut all 5 prime pulse cranking tables in half and it should start fine." I couldn't fix my warm start issues NO MATTER WHAT until uprev unlocked the 4 new prime pulse tables. After a few tweaks on those new tables I now have quick, peppy startup no matter hot or cold. For those having issues still, make absolutely sure your tuner is using the LATEST version of ROM editor and that they address these new tables using the methods outlined in the email sent by Jared."
⦁ UPREV TUNING GUIDE; http://uprev.com/UpdateFiles/software/UpRev Nissan Tuning Guide.pdf
⦁ OIL GETTING INTO S.C. PIPING - vortech FAQ: read this before asking vortech questions - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion
320-335 whp, stock vortech tune with stock pulley and stock everything else on car (stock exhaust, cats, etc)
340-350 whp tuned
350-370 whp add exhaust, HF cats, plenum, and tuning
370-390 whp add 3.12 pulley and tuning
380-400 whp add headers and/or test pipes, and tuning
390-420 whp add 2.87 pulley and tuning
420-440 whp add cams and tuning
440-475 whp add water/meth injection, more timing, at least half race gas (96 octane or higher) and tuned
onthemove
Member
Not exactly the premier location for a photo shoot (one of the local Lowes) but this isn't exactly a photo shoot, though it is an upgrade from my driveway. I'm gonna have to get a truck cause I can't load shit in the FX anymore. This time, a few small items but flipping another house will require a truck.
After the trouble I've had trying to find reasonably priced handles to replace my perfectly fine yet "tarnished(?)" handles, I cut a small piece off the orange Chem Guys cutting pad and used some v36 compound and it cleaned them up substantially. I don't think it's possible to remove the fine scratches as the handles don't appear to have a clear coat but they look much better. The cutting pad looked as though I had just polished silverware after each handle. They seem to tarnish and have a blued appearance comparing a polished section to an unpolished one.
After the trouble I've had trying to find reasonably priced handles to replace my perfectly fine yet "tarnished(?)" handles, I cut a small piece off the orange Chem Guys cutting pad and used some v36 compound and it cleaned them up substantially. I don't think it's possible to remove the fine scratches as the handles don't appear to have a clear coat but they look much better. The cutting pad looked as though I had just polished silverware after each handle. They seem to tarnish and have a blued appearance comparing a polished section to an unpolished one.
Last edited:
onthemove
Member
Hard line vacuum intake plenum to brake booster delete. The hard line was replaced with 3/8" general automotive hose. Saw this in Meme's garage. I wish there was a place that had all this shit together. There's been several things I found after doing the major tucking that would've been nice to do during that time and it would've made my life easier. This thread dubbed "onthemoveMOD'S" will hopefully tie most of this shit together, sloppy as it may be, for the next guy.
There's two grommets in the "brake booster & abs bullshit box". I used the top one as seen in pic 1. Popped the grommet, cut a whole just bigger than the 3/8" id hose and there u go. It was a pita to get the hose past all the b.s. below the plenum. Being able to stand in the bay in front of the engine makes things so much easier. I believe there's a check valve (see bulge in oem hose to the top and right of cap, pic 4) so I did as Mr. Meme and used a 3/8" double sided barb to connect the old to the new.
Getting the old hard line out would be a problem without something to cut it. I used a small pipe cutter. I think the hard line is aluminum. Whatever it is, it cuts like copper. Easy peasy. Gonna get a 90* brass fitting to replace the one the v-plenum came with which will get that hose out of site a bit more.
Next time I have so much time to just do as I want, assuming the FX hasn't been completely torn apart by then, I'm gonna give brake line relocation a shot and get those two out of the bay.
There's two grommets in the "brake booster & abs bullshit box". I used the top one as seen in pic 1. Popped the grommet, cut a whole just bigger than the 3/8" id hose and there u go. It was a pita to get the hose past all the b.s. below the plenum. Being able to stand in the bay in front of the engine makes things so much easier. I believe there's a check valve (see bulge in oem hose to the top and right of cap, pic 4) so I did as Mr. Meme and used a 3/8" double sided barb to connect the old to the new.
Getting the old hard line out would be a problem without something to cut it. I used a small pipe cutter. I think the hard line is aluminum. Whatever it is, it cuts like copper. Easy peasy. Gonna get a 90* brass fitting to replace the one the v-plenum came with which will get that hose out of site a bit more.
Next time I have so much time to just do as I want, assuming the FX hasn't been completely torn apart by then, I'm gonna give brake line relocation a shot and get those two out of the bay.