onthemove MOD's

Just to be clear, the headers aren't on yet. Don't know if the way I worded this is confusing. I think it is. Sorry if it was.
Made the vid so I have a reference between now (Kinetix high flow c.c.'s and Invidia d.e.) and these mod's + Tomei headers. Headers are supposed to be released to dealers by the end of January. They come with titanium wrap now but no increase in price. Interesting, as many manufacturer's will pull their warranty if they find out they were wrapped.
In person it's a little louder, but actually very similar to how it sounds in the vid. I know I've read about changes to the exhaust note when using a different intake or filter, etc.. Too bad I wasn't so forward thinking about a change due to all the breathing mod's done recently. I was concerned with just getting the job done and done right. Missed opportunity.
 
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I may have missed it, but are running a tune? Heard headers will add some hp for sure. But another tune is required, & yes, it will be louder. What about free'er cats?
 
Here's a dyno off a guy w/a 350z and here's his list'o mods;
-Jim Wolf Tech Popcharger
-Stillen Z-Tube
-Motordyne 5/16th Spacer
-Motordyne MREV2
-Ichiba Headers (similar to strup/dc/nismo)
-Ichiba Test Pipes
-Motordyne XYZ + Resonator
-Motordyne Dual Gamma Exhaust
-Motordyne Coolant Control Valve
-Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulleys
-Osiris Tune
My mods are much more advanced on the intake side, so I am expecting better results then he got from the headers. The chart below is the difference between Ichiba headers and the wrapped Tomei V2 headers only. He did no other mod's between the red and blue lines. Tomei put a lot of r&d into these. Don't know if the Ichiba's were wrapped which is the only unknown potential discrepancy.
I'll get another tune, if required. Once it's strapped on the dyno, he'll know if there's anything he can do of benefit. While I'm there we're gonna talk about n2o. Sounds nutz, but I think after the headers and intake mod's done recently, I think my next chart is gonna be somewhere around 30 hp/tq above the last, not that it matters.
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Of course it matter. First Sub 5 sec. N/A. Can he do it!?
Mine is so slow in comparison. Damn! I need that magic intake ;) . & Im afraid to pull my VDC. ABS could save lives, but that has to be your big mod
 
I doubt yours is so slow in comparison. Scanguage is cheap, easy, you can pull/clear trouble codes and get what I honestly believe are accurate times. You can get 60-0 braking times with this thing also. Haven't done that just yet.
I really do wish I could completely be free from abs. If you know how to drive, you'll know what to do in a situation that abs would bail you out of. I like to think I know how to drive without assistance. ABS has come close to getting me into trouble twice that I can remember. If you do the right searches, you'll find others that share my dislike for it.
If you pull your vdc relay, I'm 99% confident you'll still have abs. I do, damn it. Test it. Pull it, get to a safe road during or after a rain and slam on the brakes. Nice thing about pulling the relay is the rear brake calipers don't ride nearly as much if at all, at least no more than the fronts. 0 drag calipers would be a brake upgrade I'd be interested in making someday, if they were available for the FX(?).
My fav perf mod is light wheels & smaller diameter tires. The 2nd is between the 4" intake and transgo sk. Now with the recent intake mods + the 4", it's between that and the wheel size/weight.
 
While I'm on here I should mention what I think is a great way to deal with tail pipes that don't want to comply (fit perfectly in their notches). Get medium size zip ties or a hose clamps. What size hose clamp? I do not know because I used zip ties though 2 hose clamps are a better option. Get under the FX, get a tie around the muffler hanger rubber bushing on the top and bottom of the rubber bushing. Your bringing the muffler hanger on the muffler and the hanger on the FX closer together. Use one hand to press the muffler up and the other to tighten the zip tie. Do this to the other side. Go back and forth until the tips are where you want them.
I got my old oem pipes fitting well using hose clamps from two different angles, one to pull the pipes to one side and the other to lift them as high as I wanted them. Totally adjustable and they are still allowed to move as was intended.
 
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It was a monster when I pulled VDC, which is why I find it conceivable that you're getting some good acceleration numbers. But something about the power didnt feel right to we. From a stop & turning, the rear was too free. Would want to come around way to easily. Might be something to get accustomed to, but at the time, I wasnt use to it and felt hard to control.
 
That "too free" feeling is something that a different rear diff (lsd) would probably fix? I can't relate being awd and haven't done any research regarding rwd but the z & g guys have. While your at it, a 3.7 or 3.9 with your 29.3 tires will very noticeably increase your acceleration, all without adding any strain or weight to the rest of the drivetrain, well, maybe the 1/2 shafts but unless you went for big power, no worries.
Yeah, thanks for the change. Better than the former. When I get real word, acceptable proof (a time slip) and a sub 14 second 1/4 mile time, maybe a rename to "fastest n.a. 1st gen fx35 and how to get there", or some shit like that. Ha.
There's a guy in the carolinas near a track that's on the ocean, 14' above sea level iirc. It appears he has the fastest n.a. 350z 1/4 mile time. I'ma try to get him to meet me when the track opens late winter/early spring and get a vid of us racing down the track + a time slip. Should have a slip with the FX on n2o as well.
 
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Empty spot to the right of the large black horn fuse. VDC is red. This is the fuse box that's easiest to get to, right in front of the battery. The VDC relay is labeled on the lid.
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AxelFX said:
Appreciate it ! I’m gonna give it a try to see how the car feels untamed.
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You rwd guys might get more from it than I did? I noticed much less brake dust on the rear wheels which used to get caked compared to the front and wasn't really noticeable until I got the open faced wheels. I'm pretty sure the ecu applying the rear brakes and if there's a fuel cut off mechanism involved (?) are the only things vdc is doing that would retard power.
 
zebra555 said:
I did ~285 WHP on 04 FX35 AWD with Stage 4 Stillen, so your number should be higher than that I think.
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?
Who's # should be higher than what me amigo?

...moving on, called Tomei and they're another month out. No headers from them until 2/20/18.
 
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Thanks for that. I'm good on the awd but GTO seems to have issues with the rwd & vdc pulled, so I'm thinking the rwd ass end must be open.
 
Had to run an errand tonight & doing a potentially beneficial aerodynamic mod tomorrow, so got a few times to have a solid base. This road was different than the first 1/4 time I got. This stretch was on an incline, enough to be noticeable but not bad. I really feel the 2.2 60' is closer to 2.0 but 2.2 is the next data point and the same with the 1/4 being closer to 13.8 which would be more in line with the drop in 0-60 times from the intake mods & other corrections made. Last 0-60 was in 278'.
60', 0-60, 1/8 then 1/4.
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Cardboard, leftover hvac insulation from the prototype air boxes and intake pipe insulator, foil tape and when I ran out of that, gorilla tape and voila, parachute bumper delete. Tough to get decent shots under here. It's lined side to side with cardboard and then I applied the hvac insulation on top of that. If I get caught in a good rain, this pos is done but it doesn't need to last that long. It does need to resist folding in on itself at a high mph and it also does not need to catch on fire which is the reason for the hvac insulation.
It's ugly. Its taped. Is it functional? It's no where near a prototype but does serve the purpose for testing and I'll see for myself if the FX gets a higher mph as a result. I imagine it would increase stability at high mph and increase gas mileage, assuming I've taken coverage far enough and the ledge, formerly known as the parachute, isn't too big a deal. This bumper underneath is wide, tall and deep, so I'm inclined to think just about anything would be an improvement. The stock muffler may have diverted a lot of the airflow away from this area.
I've read about people cutting holes in the rear bumper and have seen others remove the rear bumper. I do think there's something to gain here but without removing the rear bumper, I'm not so confident that I will experience any tangible results. Time will tell. Paneling 80% + of the underbelly wouldn't be too difficult but I'm city driving 95% of the time so cooling is far more important to me. Compromise becomes a reality when you or someone you pay can do whatever you'd like to be done. Got to think it through. Weight. Heat. Aero. Power and in what form. BALLANCE.
I've got a short string of 14 second flat 1/4 mile times @ 102 mph. If this works (looking for at least 1 mph 1/4 mile), I'll form a 1 to 3 piece panel using 1/8" abs and fasteners and go over the panel(s) with heatshield products cobra shield or thermaflect cloth or some shit like that. I'll make sure all transition pieces that would "catch" the air are dealt with (correct overlapping), whether it's with this rear bumper parachute delete or some other issues I've spotted.
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