onthemove MOD's

Yes, the fronts were good. Just the one in the rear. I bought some slightly pricier 30mm ebay shits for the rear and all is well.
 
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Came across this version of a modified steering wheel selling for 350z's. It's not so thick like the others I've seen tho it i sthicker than stock. Took a shot at picking leather for the top and bottom to match the darker of the two tones in my interior and missed. I wasn't expecting a match. Mixed up some paint as the color I bought wasn't a match either. Bottom of the old wheel has tests and top of the old wheel is the final match. Got it right on the money minus the glossy sheen. The steering wheel was the only shiny leather or vinyl interior part left.

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After applying 3 clear satin top coats, the color brightened up a bit. It should calm back down once fully cured. The black leather is perforated.

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Bought new exterior handles also.

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Wow! Your fx is looking amazing. That dash looks great.
About the head unit, I bought a new pair of usb cables with identical connector/plug to replace mine and see if that’s why it wouldn’t connect every time. I ordered it from Ali express. It solved the problem on mine, it connects to CarPlay immediately when plugged. These are better made, you can tell by touch. Type this to find it.

USB cable for android car radio long usb cable 4 pin and 6 pin cable adapter connector.
 
Almost forgot, my a/c blower motor broke and had to replace it. After replacing the motor the static noise disappeared. I noticed that the broken a/c blower was for a Nissan Altima, I don’t know what the heck that was doing in the fx. Try disconnecting yours while using the head unit and check if the static is gone when the motor is unplugged.
 
Luis_fx35 said:
Wow! Your fx is looking amazing. That dash looks great.
About the head unit, I bought a new pair of usb cables with identical connector/plug to replace mine and see if that’s why it wouldn’t connect every time. I ordered it from Ali express. It solved the problem on mine, it connects to CarPlay immediately when plugged. These are better made, you can tell by touch. Type this to find it.

USB cable for android car radio long usb cable 4 pin and 6 pin cable adapter connector.
Click to expand...

Thank you. i wish I had the time and patience to do this sort of work myself.
I don't use carplay tho. I use my work phone, which is a free-to-me iphone, as a hot-spot. I might be missing something, but I really don't see the point in using carplay. I think I'll pick up those usb cables tho and thanks for the tip!
I never had any issues with static. Might be because everything (speakers, amps) is aftermarket now.
 
I had to repaint the steering wheel after using denatured alcohol to remove all the work I had just recently done. I used the topcoat that I bought several years ago when I initially did the interior and that was a mistake. Looks good now. The wheel is off a 350z and for whatever reason, it just doesn't want to line up 100%. It's slightly off, so I'll have to either get an alignment or make the adjustment myself.
I also painted out the white stitching on the shift knob. That was an "upholstery guy" call that I had to rectify.
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Got the steering wheel straight.

Tried this method but the teeth on the sprocket on the joint was off just as the teeth on the steering wheel. ;

This method worked. Easy.
 
Picked this thing up a couple days ago. Gotta wait approx 2 months as it's coming from Japan via sea turtle. In the meantime, I'll make preparations like changing out all fluids, figure out how I'm gonna make a new divider to replace the ugly yet very effective air box, am I gonna dump the crash bar, shit like that. Will start with the lower power 110mm pulley first. Bought both 110 & 100mm. Definitely gonna get a dyno before and after. Green line is the smaller pulley minus all the mod's I've got. Green line is approx 375hp/350lbs. I should see a bit more w/existing mod's. Red is 500hp/410lbs. Blue line is their old 7040 unit. Might step up to the 100mm prior to building the drivetrain. Most concerned about the trans though if I add a cooler and already got the brakemyfuckingneck shift kit already installed, it might hold up for awhile. Plan would be then to fortify the drivetrain, include some JWT cams, increase compression, maybe go with test pipes then hit it w/a shot of NAAAAASSS and see if I can't blow the thing up as I cross the 1/4 mile finish line in under 11 seconds! A 150-200 shot timed after shifts complete might do the job. Time will tell. My current dyno chart below. Will probably be using a different tuner this time for convenience. Not sure but I'm curious to see what that chart will look like on someone else's dyno for once.

sb0YSBEtCn4lYCXIHpfJfpLKLBRqbaajXpCvJytg.jpg 93wjN5yCRxVYLytrjnSlrdLqrBMBQUUPMLQMjA6N.jpg VEeSNXsMvZ7Ld9QZwDQ63ULbHNzqnyjoR5792I5L.jpg

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3rd dyno tune info crossed out.png
 
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It's actually the cheapest or one of for FI out there. I like it cause it's Japanese and they build's'em good. Hard to admit coming from mucho German blood.
 
Got everything in but the supercharger. 1000cc dw injectors & 340lph pump, uprev tuning cable and maf, ams lightweight regular drive pulleys, a belt for the 110mm low power pulley and another for the 100mm, a step cooler plugs and the stupid idler bracket that I deleted several years ago. God I hate that thing but it'll be great for the supercharger's belt. Waiting on the sea turtle to arrive with the blower mid-late september.
Once the drivetrain gets built, I'll install a fuel return system and a trans cooler.

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ONTHEMOVE...

I found your thread after a valve cover search, and dang, what an awesome build! Thanks for sharing it...I never knew so many mods were available, keep up the great work!

On the valve cover RTV sealant repair - did it hold up? If I read correctly, you used original valve covers, new gaskets, and sealed the gap between the spark plug tube and the spark plug seal on the valve cover? My number 6 is oily (surprise, surprise, lol) but it looks like in order to clean it and apply the RTV, the valve cover must be removed so the spark plug seal can be properly cleaned?

I was pondering selling the FX, but this thread has me thinking otherwise, lol. Wifey will be pissed.
 
Thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed my thread.
Yes, it worked. No leaks and it wasn't that difficult, just a little tedious. You do need to remove the valve covers. Just as I presented it in that post, along with the video, is how I would do it again.
 
This is gonna be so cool! What sort of adaptations do you anticipate having to make on account of using a Z33 kit on an FX? Don't these transmissions start getting fussy with over 400 whp? And when you build the motor, wouldn't you want to lower the compression ratio?
 
95maxrider said:
This is gonna be so cool! What sort of adaptations do you anticipate having to make on account of using a Z33 kit on an FX? Don't these transmissions start getting fussy with over 400 whp? And when you build the motor, wouldn't you want to lower the compression ratio?
Click to expand...

I think all I'll need to worry about is the piping to and from the intercooler needing to be elongated. The core support is probably going to need some "adjusting" for the i.c. pipe as well.
The lowest power rating, which is what I'll start with, is 350/350 at the flywheel. Above I mistakenly wrote 375/350. I guess i was thinking about the existing mods in addition to the supercharger. With existing mods, maybe 375/375 at the flywheel. The transmission will hold something like 330 ft lbs of torque stock. I've got a shift kit which will help in what I think is it's weakest link in stock trim, the clutch packs. If it brakes, I'm prepared to send it off to IPT and at that point would get the engine built as well.
Jumbo's experience with low end torque via turbo showed that even a fully built auto wouldn't reliably hold more than 425 ft pounds, but I believe that was to the wheels. Turbo's unleash their power with a more violent hit, similar to nitrous whereas a supercharger is linear in it's power delivery. This little HKS supercharger seems to produce torque in a similar way to a turbo though, which may have something to do with the rotary style compressor and it's ability to spin at 100k rpms.
If I were going turbo, lower compression would be the only way to go but superchargers are more forgiving. The trend over the more recent years with guys supercharging their vq's has been higher, not lower compression. If you can get away with it, it's more power. If you cannot then engine go boom.
 
I cancelled the HKS supercharger. Two reasons.
1, I don't believe it will ever actually get here. Enjuku keeps f'ing with me regarding a pulley issue and forever pushing the time of arrival back.
2, I think that unit might be a POS. Someone on a 350z site recently had a very bad experience on his 3k mile, basically new unit, where all the oil leaked out of it. that's $300 worth of oil all over the floor. I guess he caught it before he started the engine, so he's trying to save it. In this instance, what do you do, send it back to Japan? When will you get it back? This is why I was on the fence before and should've stuck with my gut.
I might go with a Vortec, maybe rear mounted turbo. Kinda loosing my taste for this bullshit once again. The FX is so enjoyable and trouble-free, why disturb the peace and make trouble for myself, especially with all that's going on in this world?
Two things for sure, both HKS and Enjuku can kiss my ass. :rofl:

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