onthemove MOD's
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Could you share pics of your rear camera install? I still haven’t been able to figure out how to connect the proper wires on mine and I’m about to give up and go find a shop.
also I still get a faint static noise. Someone in this forum said I need to ground a wire from the RCA but I already have a ground wire from the old setup so wasn’t sure what the problem is.
also I still get a faint static noise. Someone in this forum said I need to ground a wire from the RCA but I already have a ground wire from the old setup so wasn’t sure what the problem is.
onthemove
Member
It's not installed yet. I ran the wires to the back along with some speaker wires but just been toooooo busy lately. I know I wrote on this or the original Tesla style radio thread about what wires Kirinavi wrote I should use after discovering the rca plug intended for the rear camera was attached to nothing but the ground wires! That's crazy. I think it's the pink wire you want to tap into then get power from the reverse light and ground it.
That sucks! I've had my share of issues like that with eBay sellers too. What bother me the most is how eBay doesn't seem to go after them or vet these bogus sellers. I hope you get this resolved to your satisfaction
onthemove
Member
Ebay has made it much more difficult to contact them. I think that they think that they can save $ by bypassing communication with customers but I think they're wrong and they'll figure that out in due time. For now, I disputed it with American Express and they made me whole. Hopefully they'll do a charge back to nos.motor. It's not about the money but the fact that nos.motor thinks they can side-skirt buyers now that they know they have what is probably a bunch of improperly manufactured spacers. The other 3 spacers are good. I posted this video on my350z also. They would've been better off owning up to it and doing the right thing but now they're gonna loose much more $ in lost business. Penny wise, pound foolish. Ain't that right Sohail.
onthemove
Member
There was a guy on this site months ago talking about swapping in a 350 chevy engine into his fx. He disappeared then came back months later with pics of the swap. No real specifics and minimal pics. I ran across the site of the company that sells all the conversion components. LOJ Conversions. The cost of the components and various kits is high. $1800 for their street radiator? This might be the cheapest way to go really fast as for whatever reason, VQ's are expensive to mod and their respective transmissions are pathetically weak but I'm not ditching my somewhat refined Japanese drivetrain for cheverolet, the heartbeat of france, and I'm not giving up my awd. Now if they came out with an awd conversion....but they wrote "This kit is intended for 2WD FX ONLY. The GM AWD transmission options are not compatible with the layout of the FX. If you own an AWD FX, LOJ Conversions offers AWD to 2WD conversions kits!" Bummer.
Infiniti FX (S50) Overview
Infiniti FX (S50) Overview
Agreed. Realistically though, I could probably do a swap like that for less, but it wouldn't be as well engineered and it'd still be expensive.
I'd happily ditch my AWD for RWD if it was easy and cheap though.
onthemove
Member
Easy for someone who's mechanically inclined and getting parts from a bone yard would keep a conversion relatively cheap. You'd get some power back and lose around 140lbs.
It used to be fun gliding around corners in the rain in awd but I go out of my way not to drive it in the rain now. I love the awd, especially from a dead stop. No wheel spin. I also believe it does take some stress off certain parts of the transmission which may make it a little more resilient under higher power loads. The most important aspect about acceleration to me is 0-a bit beyond the speed limit. I do want to improve 1/4 mile times but mostly because the efforts translate to better 0-60-ish times. AWD will be even more appreciated when I've got a couple hundred more horsepower.
It used to be fun gliding around corners in the rain in awd but I go out of my way not to drive it in the rain now. I love the awd, especially from a dead stop. No wheel spin. I also believe it does take some stress off certain parts of the transmission which may make it a little more resilient under higher power loads. The most important aspect about acceleration to me is 0-a bit beyond the speed limit. I do want to improve 1/4 mile times but mostly because the efforts translate to better 0-60-ish times. AWD will be even more appreciated when I've got a couple hundred more horsepower.
dadmobile919
Member
I saw this guy's swap as well. The swap is too expensive to make sense, but apparently it scoots. Does solve the weak transmission issue we have though.
https://www.youtube.com/user/AcgregWilson Login • Instagram
https://www.youtube.com/user/AcgregWilson Login • Instagram
onthemove
Member
Ultimately, it might be the same or less than a built vq and transmission which one would absolutely need to use some form of forced induction to get 500 whp. A built vq, trans, supercharger of ones choice is gonna be approaching $20k, maybe $25k, especially if no diy is involved. If the drag strip is your thing, then this would absolutely be the way to go because you can tub it and go with some large slicks. If you wanted to track it, you might have been better off building a v6 vq with FI for less weight up front, maybe a rear or twin rear mount turbos but under the threshold of destroying the transmission set by the great jumbosrule. For street guys, awd is the way to go, especially after this past weekend at the drag strip.
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onthemove
Member
Found out the hard way while removing wrinkles that the upholstery guy didn't do the entire seat in leather as we discussed. Vinyl can't take heat like leather. I brought them back and it's all leather now.
I didn't like the shift knob with that dip in the middle after all. He did that over as well.
It's hard to find good help these days. That's why I prefer to DYI but I can't sew.
I didn't like the shift knob with that dip in the middle after all. He did that over as well.
It's hard to find good help these days. That's why I prefer to DYI but I can't sew.
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onthemove
Member
Finally got to the drag strip on the coast.
The sweaty south. See moss hanging from tree.
This scared the shit out of me until I figured out it was condensation in the catch can from sitting at the upholstery shop FOREVER.
Drag day morning, I got a p0420 code. Catalytic converter issue. Hasn't been back. I believe with the current tune the FX had difficulty adjusting to conditions at sea level?
The track was a mess. Too much down time. They hadn't been open for three weeks and nobody thought about coming to check the equipment before opening back up? No 60' or any other data for that matter, just what's on the ticket. A couple cars wrecked down the strip. I was the 2nd one to go and couldn't avoid the water they put down for guys to heat up their tires. All 4 were spinning, got out of the hole, shifted to 2nd and more spinning. I'm surprised the time wasn't worse. I think the inland drag strip with corrections is the only strip I'll go to test from now on. Coastal Plains Dragway blows.
Bested my time of 14.6 but the FX definitely has more. I couldn't get out of the hole the way I normally do for some reason. Had a 14.5 run but that was spinning a bit also. What a mess.
Pictures all coming out sideways. Annoying. Not my fault.
The sweaty south. See moss hanging from tree.
This scared the shit out of me until I figured out it was condensation in the catch can from sitting at the upholstery shop FOREVER.
Drag day morning, I got a p0420 code. Catalytic converter issue. Hasn't been back. I believe with the current tune the FX had difficulty adjusting to conditions at sea level?
The track was a mess. Too much down time. They hadn't been open for three weeks and nobody thought about coming to check the equipment before opening back up? No 60' or any other data for that matter, just what's on the ticket. A couple cars wrecked down the strip. I was the 2nd one to go and couldn't avoid the water they put down for guys to heat up their tires. All 4 were spinning, got out of the hole, shifted to 2nd and more spinning. I'm surprised the time wasn't worse. I think the inland drag strip with corrections is the only strip I'll go to test from now on. Coastal Plains Dragway blows.
Bested my time of 14.6 but the FX definitely has more. I couldn't get out of the hole the way I normally do for some reason. Had a 14.5 run but that was spinning a bit also. What a mess.
Pictures all coming out sideways. Annoying. Not my fault.
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onthemove
Member
Here's a vid of the guy who's got the original FX35 with a chevy engine, the maker of the kit. It will be nice to finally see an FX go down the track in less than 11 seconds but that could happen with it's existing power plant, which for me would be so much sweeter.
Too much power + not enough traction = wasted effort, like most fast rwd cars but that's just the way I see it.
Enjoy.
Here's that 1200 hp FX that disappeared. Goddamn crapco transmission!
Too much power + not enough traction = wasted effort, like most fast rwd cars but that's just the way I see it.
Enjoy.
Here's that 1200 hp FX that disappeared. Goddamn crapco transmission!
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onthemove
Member
Removed the near 2 decade old tint and went to 20% to match the rear windows.
Used some old engine bay weather strip and some left over automotive hose to see if I could stop the vibrations from the sub. It works. Clean bass and no obnoxious noise. Don't need sound deadening material.
Bottom of JBL powered sub. Long support bolt goes through this hole then into the spare tire provision in the next pic. Old weather strip outlines the edge of the hole. No metal on metal.
Automotive hose cut to size.
Sub sitting on automotive hose.
Dragtimes put my latest timeslip in. #2. 2003 Infiniti FX35 1/4 Mile Drag Racing
Used some old engine bay weather strip and some left over automotive hose to see if I could stop the vibrations from the sub. It works. Clean bass and no obnoxious noise. Don't need sound deadening material.
Bottom of JBL powered sub. Long support bolt goes through this hole then into the spare tire provision in the next pic. Old weather strip outlines the edge of the hole. No metal on metal.
Automotive hose cut to size.
Sub sitting on automotive hose.
Dragtimes put my latest timeslip in. #2. 2003 Infiniti FX35 1/4 Mile Drag Racing
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onthemove
Member
The things I did to the sub in the post above did make a big improvement but not as much as I thought. Once I listened to a wider range of music, it became obvious that noise reduction wasn't gonna be that easy. 
. I bought some foam baffles for the door speakers, not for noise reduction. There is a difference in quality. Not huge, but noticeable. I guess it's better to have some controlled space for the speaker rather than the entire cavity of the door. They barely fit, running into a rail for the window, especially on the passenger side.
The tech at DEI said to install the boom mat right on top of the existing insulation. It's a a big improvement. I think the issue with this sub is that it fires down, beating the shit out of the metal below. That's one of the reasons I used the hose, to keep it off the floor which I put back in place after installing the mat. The spare tire would keep it off the floor but that thing is long gone. There's still some other minor noise in the hatch area when the sub's hitting that I've got to deal with but it sounds pretty damn clean now.
The foam baffles and boom mat are made by DEI, the same brand that made my exhaust wrap and shields.
. I bought some foam baffles for the door speakers, not for noise reduction. There is a difference in quality. Not huge, but noticeable. I guess it's better to have some controlled space for the speaker rather than the entire cavity of the door. They barely fit, running into a rail for the window, especially on the passenger side.The tech at DEI said to install the boom mat right on top of the existing insulation. It's a a big improvement. I think the issue with this sub is that it fires down, beating the shit out of the metal below. That's one of the reasons I used the hose, to keep it off the floor which I put back in place after installing the mat. The spare tire would keep it off the floor but that thing is long gone. There's still some other minor noise in the hatch area when the sub's hitting that I've got to deal with but it sounds pretty damn clean now.
The foam baffles and boom mat are made by DEI, the same brand that made my exhaust wrap and shields.
Oh no I bought those same ones you linked and you’re right, the listing for the rear 30mm ones are now “Out of stock”.
So only one of your rears were bad and the other was ok? I gotta get mine checked out, but so far no issues that I can tell. I have a young baby tho so don’t want to take any chances.
onthemove
Member
The only way to tell is in the youtube vid. You've got to get the tires off the ground, put it in drive and let'em spin. I had some unrelated vibration and brought it to the shop. They got all 4 tires off the ground and put it in drive. I never did notice a difference in feel with the defective spacer. I couldn't tell the spacer was off until this point in the vid.
So do you think the 35mm ones in the front are ok? Only the 30mm ones might potentially have issues? Sounds like you just swapped out your rears and left your front ones.