New rotors and pads Install

Ok guys so just finish installing my R&P and after putting everything back on and going for a ride immediately i heard a rubbing noise coming from the front breaks almost like when the pads are worn out, I checked the heater shield thing and move pushed it back away from the rotor but still make that F@#$% noise. Any ideas or suggestions please thank you guys.

i'm no brake expert, but i would try pumping the brakes numerous times...maybe they're not retracting all the way. or possibly you may need to burnish the pads. i just replaced my fronts and did 8 passes at 65 to 5mph. i also did the rears about 5 months ago, but i have to say that i didn't have that rubbing problem. i can say, i've done pads on several other of my cars in the past and i did have that problem. i just drove them til the rubbing went away.
 
Did anybody have an issue with the rear calipers? More specifically once you have the wheel off, were you able to remove the bottom of the two brake bolts? The problem is that when extracting the bottom bolt it hits against one of the leading control arms (not sure exactly what that member is called) and I can not remove it to pull the caliper off. I did not have this issue with the front wheels and was able to completely remove the calipers. Luckily when I first encountered this in the rear I was just changing only the pads so my solution was to simply pivot the caliper around the unremoveable bolt and off of the rotor to swap the pads. That worked fine.

Now I'm replacing the rotors and obviously this issue will have to be addressed. I'm just wondering how you guys handled that control arm being in the way.
 
same way you did pivot around

Maybe you don't quite understand, I can get the top bolt out fine to pivot around the bottom but i need the bottom one out too to take the caliper off. No matter which one I try first the bottom one hits the control arm when I attempt to remove. I'd love to hear a better explanation if I don't understand you completely.

i put the jack on the control arm and raised it abit to remove the bolt i believe. The other time, it had enough slack to come off.. idk lol weird

Yea, that's sort of what I was thinking I'd have to do. Just wanted to double check.
 
Did anybody have an issue with the rear calipers? More specifically once you have the wheel off, were you able to remove the bottom of the two brake bolts? The problem is that when extracting the bottom bolt it hits against one of the leading control arms (not sure exactly what that member is called) and I can not remove it to pull the caliper off. I did not have this issue with the front wheels and was able to completely remove the calipers. Luckily when I first encountered this in the rear I was just changing only the pads so my solution was to simply pivot the caliper around the unremoveable bolt and off of the rotor to swap the pads. That worked fine.

Now I'm replacing the rotors and obviously this issue will have to be addressed. I'm just wondering how you guys handled that control arm being in the way.

Do you mean that your wrench is hitting the control arm or that the actual bolt is hitting the control arm?
 
Maybe you don't quite understand, I can get the top bolt out fine to pivot around the bottom but i need the bottom one out too to take the caliper off. No matter which one I try first the bottom one hits the control arm when I attempt to remove. I'd love to hear a better explanation if I don't understand you completely.


then take the caliper mount off the rotor, the 2 big bolts 17mm i belive, once you take those 2 huge ones out that holds the caliper onto the rotor then the caliper will come out without taking the 1 14mm bolt out

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check this link

http://www.infinitifx.org/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=16792&sid=78365c4be5fdd78bac174b57c2b34298&start=0

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the number 7 which is the radius rod, thats whats blocking right?
 

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Ahhhh, he's trying to remove the caliper from the bracket instead of the bracket from the hub. That's the problem. :thumbup:

Exactly, it was the logical first step to then get to the bracket. I thought that was obvious.

then take the caliper mount off the rotor, the 2 big bolts 17mm i belive, once you take those 2 huge ones out that holds the caliper onto the rotor then the caliper will come out without taking the 1 14mm bolt out

Yea, it was #7 on that diagram. Thanks for the help guys, I just wanted to make sure what I was encountering wasn't anything that hasn't been seen before. Again, removal of the caliper was the first logical step to get to the bracket but if I can get straight to the source and remove the bracket without removal of the caliper, even better. My next question would then be if somebody is replacing both rotor and pads, why go through the hassle of removing the caliper and then the bracket if the removal of the bracket removes both anyways? ...other than tool clearances.
 
i dont take the caliper off when im replacing the pads for the rears, that bottom bolt just needs to get loose so you can pivot the caliper up. Yes but its easier to install the pads onto the caliper when still on the mount, also the caliper brake line is pretty short so it will be much harder to manuever throught decompressing the piston for pad change..
 
Went to replace my rear pads today and for some reason the oem pads are too thick to fit back over the rotor?
I already used the caliper tool to push the pistion back in but the outer pad is still like half too thick. Any ideas guys?
Thanks in advance!
 
Went to replace my rear pads today and for some reason the oem pads are too thick to fit back over the rotor?
I already used the caliper tool to push the pistion back in but the outer pad is still like half too thick. Any ideas guys?
Thanks in advance!

Either you didn't get the right pads, didn't push the piston enough or didn't seat the pad well.



TapaTalkin'
 
Zero RunOut_1.JPG Brakes Front Aug 24_2015.jpg
well yeah its a special "grease" or gel that you put on the pads. i didnt mean just any old grease. what springs are you talking about?

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has anyone tried to use the shims and shim covers for aftermarket pads? mine got thrown away a long time ago and infiniti said they usually wont fit aftermarket pads. however, they keep the noise down that these vehicles are notorious for. didnt know that
I realize this is an old thread, but nice work by Prelude48 on posting the photos. I threw away the factory shims and used the brake grease that will be in the carton with any decent brand of pads. As SanDiegoMarine pointed out, the brake grease (poly butyl cuprysil silicone-based grease) should go between the backside of the pads and the caliper pistons and all around the steel inserts or brackets that position the pads. This got rid of cold start brake squeal on my FX45 that prevailed from the day we drove it off the dealer's showroom in 2005. Most often the "grease" is bright red to help prevent using the wrong lubricant with pad replacement. I think Infiniti used the shims because the cheap OEM pads were prone to squeal. My pads came with another lube for the shoulder bolt on which the calipers float or slide (see illustration attached herein).

I regret that I did not replace all four rotors because rotors are relatively cheap in the grand scheme of a brake job. My rotors had very little (visible) wear, but I now have some brake shudder that was not there with the old pads. I'll replace the rotors when the weather warms up. Eventually I learned that most modern cars should have rotors turned while on the vehicle to avoid run-out. However, the cost of new rotors is probably not much more expensive than turning the rotors while on the car. Some folks say that even NEW rotors should be checked for run-out by tightening rotors to the hub with wheel nuts at 40 ft lbs and checking with a dial indicator. Those same folks will tell you to mark an index point whenever removing a rotor from a hub - because the original rotors were most likely turned while on the vehicle at the factory. I discovered my original Corvette rotors were turned at the factory, and it was critical because GM allowed only 0.002" run-out on this car. Had to buy all four corners - and those puppies weigh about 23 pounds each. The cost escapes me at the moment but that's why I made the earlier comment about FX45 rotors being "cheap."

I would echo the earlier post about never compressing pistons into the caliper without opening the bleeder valve because that will always be the dirtiest brake fluid in the system. It'll be dark and nasty every time. You do not want to have to go back later and overhaul or replace calipers due to contaminated brake fluid. I'm the pot calling the kettle black because I should have used my Chinese dial indicator on the original rotors whereupon I would have likely observed run-out that is causing moderate shudder on my FX45.

I think the "springs" someone mentioned are the steel clips that position the pads. See parts 17 and 18 in the photo attached herein. The factory shims that I threw away are indicated with red arrows. Use brake grease liberally on 17 and 18 to prevent squeal, but be careful to avoid getting grease on the braking surfaces of the pads.

For whatever it's worth, I went with ceramic pads because I grew weary of cleaning the brake dust off of my factory optional chrome wheels. It's a lot easier to keep the wheels looking nice with ceramic pads. What little dust they generate is off-white. I also converted to ceramic pads on my Z51 C6 Corvette. Life is much easier with ceramic, and they stop as good as the semi-metallic pads that they replaced - unless you are racing a road course circuit.

When I put brakes and rotors on the Vette, I bought the Chinese dial indicator for less than $40, which is how I determined the old rotors were beyond the GM allowances for total run-out. The guy who turned my Corvette rotors on a free-standing brake lathe ruined all four rotors because his lathe spindle bearing was worn out.

Maybe someone else can benefit from my mistakes. :)
 
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Doppler1992, thanks for posting the diagram. Taking the time to add things like that to forum posts will help people out years from now.
I am an old school car guy, as I assume you are too.
Some of the advice I hear on here doesn't really make sense. Cracking the bleeder screws when compressing the piston back in for example. It does make pushing the piston back in easier, but it also gives you the chance to learn the hard way about bleeding modern ABS brake systems.
Brake systems are designed by nature to be sealed, both because brake fluid is hygroscropic and air doesn't compress like fluid. It is a sealed system and unless you have a leak, the fluid you are moving when pressing the caliper piston back in to replace the pads just goes back into the MC. So a master with low fluid indicates brake wear by design.
The downside that I think some others are talking about with pushing "dirty" fluid back into the system is exactly why OEM's suggest flushing brake fluid.
Fluids in cars capture contaminates. They need to be flushed. So in that respect I agree it's a bad idea to push dirty fluid backwards but that fluid is only a mess because it's been in the system too long. If it's dirty, it's also is a good indicator of seals and soft components breaking down.
 
I also want to add that turning rotors is a dying trend. It's something that worked fine 30 years ago when people had very different driving habits.
Don't get me wrong, it still works today, but it's a band-aid. The metallurgical composition of today's rotors do not hold up being abused, turned, and then put back in service with the average driver. Once warped they will return to that state.
Look at these failures and ask yourself if you want to be driving down a mountain and have this happen. Sorry guys, but brakes and tires are what keeps me in control of my cars, so I find them VERY important.

brake rotor failure - Google Search
 
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