Jumbo's Silver FX - 2nd custom build
- Thread starter jumbosrule
- Start date
On a little mod streak I guess!
Adding a little class to the cabin, I'm cutting down on ambient noise. The motor is baseline louder than stock and while it's cool when I want it, I can always open the dump valve. When the valve is closed, i'd like a more stock-quiet like ride.
Using the OE hoodliner as a template to cut out the Dynamat Hoodliner
And after cleaning the underside of the hood... that was pretty much it. Not really that tough to install this. I even used some of the factory retainers.
And I also had enough time to lay down a layer of Dynamat Extreme behind each door panel, along with some leftover hoodliner to provide some insulation.
And finally, I added a little gadget - the Roav charger.
Roav SmartCharge Car Kit F2
This is now how my phone connects to the car, and the gadget sits inside the center arm-rest console so it's not even visible! The app comes with some features but for now I'm using it for phone connectivity and USB charge ports.
Adding a little class to the cabin, I'm cutting down on ambient noise. The motor is baseline louder than stock and while it's cool when I want it, I can always open the dump valve. When the valve is closed, i'd like a more stock-quiet like ride.
Using the OE hoodliner as a template to cut out the Dynamat Hoodliner
And after cleaning the underside of the hood... that was pretty much it. Not really that tough to install this. I even used some of the factory retainers.
And I also had enough time to lay down a layer of Dynamat Extreme behind each door panel, along with some leftover hoodliner to provide some insulation.
And finally, I added a little gadget - the Roav charger.
Roav SmartCharge Car Kit F2
This is now how my phone connects to the car, and the gadget sits inside the center arm-rest console so it's not even visible! The app comes with some features but for now I'm using it for phone connectivity and USB charge ports.
What did you end up with for an OCC? Looks like a dual setup, do you have one can between each crankcase vent line and inlet? I was thinking of going with a custom one from Saiku Michi using the 2 outlets from each crankcase, and just the inlet on the front of the plenum, then plug the intake tube inlet. I did valve covers not too long ago and noticed all the crap that gets sucked in. I figure the further down the intake line the better. Behind my TB it was just black goop.
Been lurking on the FX facebook page for a few months now. The influx of "new blood" means there is plenty of enthusiasm for the first gen so it's actually got me thinking about doing some more. Strange how that works.
Recently displayed the FX at SPOCOM in Anaheim, as the StopTech booth car. Pretty cool.
So for the short term - she's going into the shop next week for some voluntary tweaks.
All new wheel bearings - never changed under my ownership so with 44,000 miles on the boosted setup, might as well be safe.
Remote oil filter - with the twin scroll piping, changing the Canton cartridge filter is a pain. Relocating it to an empty spot in the bay will make it easy.
Custom power steering reservoir - current reservoir is a catch can converted and it works... but not perfectly.
Custom coolant overflow reservoir - current reservoir is a catch can converted... and I dont think it has ever worked properly.
So instead of a functional coolant overflow, my radiator essentially runs 90% full. Because it is all aluminum and shrouded, cooling has never been an issue until recently. For my job I sometimes take a decent road trip through the California desert and I have found my temps will start to creep up at higher altitudes when going uphill (grapevine) and under throttle load. I'm pretty sure filling the rad all the way and giving it a proper expansion volume will fix this rare, specific issue... but I guess thats exactly where I am with this build. Tiny tweaks.
I also bent the crap out of my GT Spec rear lower subframe brace so that's actually coming off permanently. Right now it's touching the exhaust and rattling at certain rpm so it's garbage. Bending it back won't leave it structurally sound. Not that I had any evidence is was doing anything anyway!
Recently displayed the FX at SPOCOM in Anaheim, as the StopTech booth car. Pretty cool.
So for the short term - she's going into the shop next week for some voluntary tweaks.
All new wheel bearings - never changed under my ownership so with 44,000 miles on the boosted setup, might as well be safe.
Remote oil filter - with the twin scroll piping, changing the Canton cartridge filter is a pain. Relocating it to an empty spot in the bay will make it easy.
Custom power steering reservoir - current reservoir is a catch can converted and it works... but not perfectly.
Custom coolant overflow reservoir - current reservoir is a catch can converted... and I dont think it has ever worked properly.
So instead of a functional coolant overflow, my radiator essentially runs 90% full. Because it is all aluminum and shrouded, cooling has never been an issue until recently. For my job I sometimes take a decent road trip through the California desert and I have found my temps will start to creep up at higher altitudes when going uphill (grapevine) and under throttle load. I'm pretty sure filling the rad all the way and giving it a proper expansion volume will fix this rare, specific issue... but I guess thats exactly where I am with this build. Tiny tweaks.
I also bent the crap out of my GT Spec rear lower subframe brace so that's actually coming off permanently. Right now it's touching the exhaust and rattling at certain rpm so it's garbage. Bending it back won't leave it structurally sound. Not that I had any evidence is was doing anything anyway!
All the voluntary stuff was completed, along with a couple other maintenance items. Turns out there was some cracking in the manifold pipes, so they were repaired and reinforced with gussets. Throttle response was down because of this, but its back now!
The oil filter relocation was completed as well. I had been running a Canton no-bypass cartridge filter system but the guys at SpecialtyZ convinced me to go back to a standard style filter since they have so many boosted cars running around like that. I was always over-cautious but the new setup is miles more user friendly. So the filter can now be accessed behind the passenger front wheel, without lifting the car if I wanted.
To help manage heat, we installed a hot side turbo blanket. I had always relied on the ceramic coating to keep temps down but the blanket is much more efficient, especially over the ceramic coating.
The coolant reservoir was also re-fabricated - made both longer and wider. Sort of looks like an aluminum milk jug from back in the day. Not the best view in this photo. Along with a new radiator cap and a new thermostat, I'm going to test it through the California desert in the next couple weeks to see if temperatures stay solid.
The rear subframe GTSpec brace was not salvageable, so that's gone. Wheel bearings replaced. She still cleans up nice.
The oil filter relocation was completed as well. I had been running a Canton no-bypass cartridge filter system but the guys at SpecialtyZ convinced me to go back to a standard style filter since they have so many boosted cars running around like that. I was always over-cautious but the new setup is miles more user friendly. So the filter can now be accessed behind the passenger front wheel, without lifting the car if I wanted.
To help manage heat, we installed a hot side turbo blanket. I had always relied on the ceramic coating to keep temps down but the blanket is much more efficient, especially over the ceramic coating.
The coolant reservoir was also re-fabricated - made both longer and wider. Sort of looks like an aluminum milk jug from back in the day. Not the best view in this photo. Along with a new radiator cap and a new thermostat, I'm going to test it through the California desert in the next couple weeks to see if temperatures stay solid.
The rear subframe GTSpec brace was not salvageable, so that's gone. Wheel bearings replaced. She still cleans up nice.
95maxrider
Member
I just read through this whole thread and I'm blown away by the dedication you have to your FX! I was not expecting to find a build of this quality and magnitude ever done to an FX, but it is really something else. Congratulations on building something so unique and amazing, you must be very proud!
I'm new to the forum and the FX35 is my wife's, so mods will be pretty minimal and mostly related to maintenance at first, but this is certainly some good motivation as to what's possible with these vehicles. Her FX is going to need new shocks soon, and I'm trying to convince her to go the BC route instead of replacement KYBs. How are you liking the BCs after all these years? Anything you would change?
I'm new to the forum and the FX35 is my wife's, so mods will be pretty minimal and mostly related to maintenance at first, but this is certainly some good motivation as to what's possible with these vehicles. Her FX is going to need new shocks soon, and I'm trying to convince her to go the BC route instead of replacement KYBs. How are you liking the BCs after all these years? Anything you would change?
The BC's are a great improvement over stock, because of the adjustable height and dampening. In terms of feel, you can make it more of what you like, so there is no disadvantage here. I've never had any negative feedback to give on the coil-overs. Better than stock. I'd even say just get them and keep your stock stuff - then part out the BC suspension when you sell the car and you wont lose much. You will have, "rented" the coil-overs.
As for the rest of the build... there are definitely some things I have had to do more than once, so yeah - I would have done things differently in some cases. But the car is really well balanced because I never really strayed from a street build. There are no hardcore race modifications and everything has evolved to be both more powerful and just as comfortable.
The exhaust started out much more harsh, but I've added back in the cat and a resonator to have better daily street manners. I lived with some discomfort for a while, then tweaked it to be better. Once I installed solid motor mounts. HUGE MISTAKE. after 6 weeks I replaced them with OE mounts. Several examples like this but in the end, they all helped to create the final build that I consider really dialed in. I have no problem daily driving this car, carpooling kids, taking weekend road trips... reliability is not an issue.
But maintenance is definitely a little more expensive - and I need to use specialty service providers, carry special insurance, etc. It's more of a headache than a regular car for sure but its worth it for the fun factor. I enjoy it every single time I drive.
As for the rest of the build... there are definitely some things I have had to do more than once, so yeah - I would have done things differently in some cases. But the car is really well balanced because I never really strayed from a street build. There are no hardcore race modifications and everything has evolved to be both more powerful and just as comfortable.
The exhaust started out much more harsh, but I've added back in the cat and a resonator to have better daily street manners. I lived with some discomfort for a while, then tweaked it to be better. Once I installed solid motor mounts. HUGE MISTAKE. after 6 weeks I replaced them with OE mounts. Several examples like this but in the end, they all helped to create the final build that I consider really dialed in. I have no problem daily driving this car, carpooling kids, taking weekend road trips... reliability is not an issue.
But maintenance is definitely a little more expensive - and I need to use specialty service providers, carry special insurance, etc. It's more of a headache than a regular car for sure but its worth it for the fun factor. I enjoy it every single time I drive.
95maxrider
Member
Do you know if it's possible to run BCs at stock height, or do they automatically drop the ride height? Has anyone ever experimented with different spring rates, and if so, what were the results? What about the upgrade to Swift springs?
I recently reinstalled a cat on my 3.5 swapped I30 after not having one for 15 years and it really made the exhaust much more pleasant. I don't know if I'll ever run without cats again! I'm running poly motor and trans mounts on that car, and they're surprisingly okay to live with for a daily. I don't have specialty insurance for that car, but I probably should!
Yes, you can definitely run the BCs at stock height. I think you can actually raise them if you wanted.
Poly comfort really depends a lot on the particular car and the part. I might consider poly bushings in my suspension, but given my past experience with the FX, I probably would not consider poly for any mounts.
The exhaust sound has a lot less to do with the cat and a lot more to do with the natural resonator a cat creates. You can achieve the same quiet factor as a cat using tuned resonators, but then you wouldn't be as nice to the environment. If a car doesn't have a cat, it should. There are plenty of hi-flow cat options out there if pure performance is a requirement.
Poly comfort really depends a lot on the particular car and the part. I might consider poly bushings in my suspension, but given my past experience with the FX, I probably would not consider poly for any mounts.
The exhaust sound has a lot less to do with the cat and a lot more to do with the natural resonator a cat creates. You can achieve the same quiet factor as a cat using tuned resonators, but then you wouldn't be as nice to the environment. If a car doesn't have a cat, it should. There are plenty of hi-flow cat options out there if pure performance is a requirement.
Thanks.
Yes, I have been chasing cracks about once per year - which isnt so bad. They are easy to fix and I just have them re-welded when I get an oil change. The last time, the shop made some reinforcements to the manifold by welding in gussets and using extra material for support. Since those were made, no more cracks have been found... but we DID have a V-band clamp come off twice further downstream!
We are thinking there are some heat stresses in the piping and manifold that cause some pretty decent movement as the system heats up. Slip joints and flex joints were included to mitigate the stresses, but the design is custom and obviously there are some other things playing into the whole story.
After the repairs were made, the car went back onto the dyno and we actually increased the boost a little bit. She's pulling stronger than ever - a few more WHP over the numbers we got right after the twin scroll install.
I took the FX to West End Alignment here in Carson on Monday and got a four wheel alignment done. Because the car is lowered, alignment is a little bit of a compromise. Toe is out of spec but acceptable - any further adjustment pulls caster and camber out of range. After the adjustment, the car felt much more stable and planted on the road.
I've been thinking about replacing the front window tint and maybe upgrading the sound system a little. I have at least one blown tweeter.
onthemove
Member
I wonder if it's more a cool-down issue than the heat itself. I think that's typically the issue with an exhaust, headers for example, that've been wrapped and wrapped too close to a flange. I wonder if wrapping all these pipes would solve this problem giving a prolonged cool down period.
No but I think I could get info from the shop if I asked. West End only does my alignment because of who I work for - they won't usually do SUVs. But what we talked about was the fact that lowering the car makes it impossible to align to factory specs because of the geometry design. At some point in the past, a different shop slotted my subframe to give me a little more adjustment, but I would need some custom work done to the arms to correct a lowered geometry in order to get all three adjustments into stock specifications.
The difference is night and day though. With toe at 2 degrees, the car felt super twitchy and wrong. Tires would squeal on smooth pavement, ABS light would flicker when the car got light over a bump... Getting toe down to 1.5 degrees was a giant improvement in feel. So much that I might just consider that custom suspension arm work at some point in the future...
Fluids: Running Liqui Moly 10w-60 Race Tech Oil, Transmission is Nissan Matic-S and the differential is Redline 75w-90.