HOW TO: Changing Transmission Fluid

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NJ-R'sFX35 said:
So.. After reading this entire thread I decided not to do anything at all. It seems no one agrees on what is the right thing to do with the trannsmission fluid.:sad.:
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You could split the difference and just drain the 4 quarts from the pan and refill. Actually, drain and measure, then replace the exact amount (about 3.75. qts).
 
I think more research on the matter is needed. Doesnt make sense to me drain X qt and fill Xqt. the new fluid will get mix with the old and you are back to where you started with dirty oil, the only way i believe this would work is if you do it constantly, i mean every X miles, until the oil is clean. The full drain sounds best to me, but yet again some say that if you do it the new oil will break the contaminants on the walls of the tranny and ruin the transmission. So, this is not gonna work either.:hmmmm: ... I still dont know what to do.
 
So when you disconnected the trans cooler lines while your draining it you tell your friend to fill it at the same time? and also while the cooler line is disconnected would that cause air to go in the lines? is that okay?
 
Yes, and it goes pretty quick. Whoever is topside should be prepared to shut down the engine if he cannot keep up with the draining to allow him to catch up (at least that's what we did). Air doesn't matter.
 
thank you for the quick reply, reason i was asking about the air, I was thinking about replacing the trans cooler hose, so if I leave the car engine off replace the hose, the air in the new hose wont be a problem for the transmission right?
 
No problem. Any air will be circulated back to the trans eventually and dissipate up the fill tube or collect in the top of the trans case. It's not a sealed system like brakes. More comparable to the engine oil system.
 
And with the car engine off I wont have oil rushing out of there either, so replacing the trans cooler hose is much easier than I thought ;), let me ask you for your opinion, I saw some oil dripping (very little, almost unnoticeable, but Im just a paranoid guy and pay attention to stuff like that) it was def red and came from the connection to the radiator, now I checked the hose it looks fine, I was thinking it could have been the washer/o ring leaking that connects to the radiator, could that leak? And if yes how hard is that to replace, i cant find the part on infintipartsusa. thank you very much!
 
I don't recall if that nipple was a screw in connection or not, but I'd start just replacing the hose clamp at the joint when you do the hose. Or just do the clamp for now. It's fairly high pressure so if you had a leak it would be quite obvious.
 
From the manual, it says to use the drain plug, and replace the gasket. It looks like this is done with engine off, but after the fluid has been warmed. Then it says after replacing the plug, to drain from the small hose going to the rad. This is done with the engine running and the fluid is drained while it is being refilled at the top with new fluid. As I read the manual, when draining out of the plug, with the engine off, that the fluid is drained, then it is refilled, but it doesn't explicitly say the filling needs to happen while the fluid is being drained when draining out of the drain plug. It would also seem that if using the drain plug, one would let he fluid drain till it stops, then put back in the same amount of fluid. For draining out of the small hose, it does say to drain and fill at the same time and with the engine running. My guess is draining out of both locations removes more of the old fluid. Is my understanding of draining with the plug, one drains, then fills with engine off, but when draining from the hose, one drain and fills at the same time with th engine on.?

---------- Post Merged at 10:28 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 10:27 PM ----------

From the manual, it says to use the drain plug, and replace the gasket. It looks like this is done with engine off, but after the fluid has been warmed. Then it says after replacing the plug, to drain from the small hose going to the rad. This is done with the engine running and the fluid is drained while it is being refilled at the top with new fluid. As I read the manual, when draining out of the plug, with the engine off, that the fluid is drained, then it is refilled, but it doesn't explicitly say the filling needs to happen while the fluid is being drained when draining out of the drain plug. It would also seem that if using the drain plug, one would let he fluid drain till it stops, then put back in the same amount of fluid. For draining out of the small hose, it does say to drain and fill at the same time and with the engine running. My guess is draining out of both locations removes more of the old fluid. Is my understanding of draining with the plug, one drains, then fills with engine off, but when draining from the hose, one drain and fills at the same time with th engine on.?
 
Has anyone on this forum ever dropped the pan to replace/clean the filter element? I saw that the filter/gasket is readily available (ATP B327), but I've never seen anyone discuss doing this on this (or other) forum(s). I am a handy DIYer, but I don't like going where no man has gone before. Just wondering if anyone has done this procedure.
 
Guys, i have been through this post, reply by reply, i would agree the most with WietseFX35 comments specially regarding his quote from the manual about using the return line not the supply line while the engine is running idle, so maximum old fluid is out and a nice flush to the cooler. All of this being after the draining from the plug and filling the same amount while engine is off.

If you watch this Video on youtube, this guy sort of did that but in a different way, although he used the supply line, however he blew some compressed air into the cooler to push old fluid back to the transmission, again this is for maximum old fluid out and a cooler flush. Note the top-off at the end - nice and easy.

http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=MsdPAadc9fY&desktop_uri=/watch?v=MsdPAadc9fY

I also been searching for the shock effect resulting from changing all or most of the fluid and could not find any clue, I would agree once again with WietseFX35 on that.

I finally got my Matic J fluid after a long search around and I am gonna either follow the manual or the guy from the youtube video, or maybe I could come up with something in between as I go along.


Sent from my iPad
 
****Shocking effect****

I can now make peace between bleedingsujit and wietseFX35.

Watch this video and you will understand what bleedingsujit meant by "shocking" the transmission with new fluid, and that it is not always the case, and I guess that Dracula had just shocked his transmission:

http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=cfozabdprmQ&desktop_uri=/watch?v=cfozabdprmQ

So in summation, and to avoid any problems, you should change your transmission fluid in stages, you could start with drain and fill, after a couple of dozens of miles you do that again before you finally flush. To avoid going through this at all, do a fluid change very 30k or so.

I bought my car and it had 62k miles on it and now it is has 75k miles, it was imported from the USA when I first got it so I had no clue if transmission fluid has been changed before by the previous mysterious owner.


Sent from my iPad
 
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Jeff, Do you know many miles were on the original oil?
Was thinking I might do a drain and fill.
I have a track event at Willow Springs next week. Changing out some fluids to get ready. I think I've done this before, but cant remember. I may have asked my shop to do it cuz I'm missing a few quarts from my stash. I have 29K on the car.
& I think I'm too early for rear Diff, so I'm gonna skip that one.
 
Thx. I guess it cant hurt. I'm doing it.
ATE Super Blue, Mobil 1, & Drain & fill w/ Matic-J (the old stuff. I have a case here in the garage)

What I really could use are some Carbotech XP pads, but I didnt get around to it :disapointed: I have the Hawks plus on there, about 70%. I'm hoping I dont cook them so badly that I'm fading by lap 2. I figure with the Dot4 fluid going in & some creative breaking, I'll get through the day.
I heard Willow's not too hard on brakes & it looks to be big enough to get some cooling between the heavy braking areas. Turns 1 & 5. Track length is 2.5 mls


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYNHwceYoXk

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bullfrog23414 said:
Has anyone on this forum ever dropped the pan to replace/clean the filter element? I saw that the filter/gasket is readily available (ATP B327), but I've never seen anyone discuss doing this on this (or other) forum(s). I am a handy DIYer, but I don't like going where no man has gone before. Just wondering if anyone has done this procedure.
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Sorry to bump my own post, but I'm thinking of doing this this weekend (82k miles, swapped out 6 qts at 35k). I'm planning to start doing regular (probably every other oil change) drain and fills on the tranny and was just thinking about starting that off with a clean pan/filter. I'm assuming that since I don't see mention of it and no one responded to my original post that this may be unnecessary, but I'd really be interested in everyone's thoughts.
 
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