Crank Pulley (Fluidampr) installation

wlvrn97 said:
Hi all,
I plan on doing the UR pulley set...can anyone post what the torque specs are for
all the bolts...crank, alternator and idler? Can the crank pulley be torqued enough by hand? Or do you need an impact/air gun??
Click to expand...

Here's the torque specs you were looking for.

As for swapping the alternator pulley, it's going to be a PIA.
Nothing to hold the pulley from spinning so you can undo the bolt by hand.
You'll need a strong impact gun spin the nut off quick and strong.
You'll also need the impact gun to tighten down the pulley as well.
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Dracula said:
my P/S is kind of wobbly, bearings are shot?
Click to expand...

Take the belt off the pulley, grab the pulley and wiggle it to see if the pulley or the shaft that wobble. As I recall, there is no bearing on the pulley. The pulley mounted directly on the the shaft. If there are bearing inside of the pump that the shaft seats on, it not a serviceable part though. I have a feeling that you will have to replace the pump if it wobble badly.
 
i need to loosen A and B to take the belt off? and will there be any problems if it stays slight wobbly?
la_fx35 said:
Take the belt off the pulley, grab the pulley and wiggle it to see if the pulley or the shaft that wobble. As I recall, there is no bearing on the pulley. The pulley mounted directly on the the shaft. If there are bearing inside of the pump that the shaft seats on, it not a serviceable part though. I have a feeling that you will have to replace the pump if it wobble badly.
Click to expand...
 
Dracula said:
i need to loosen A and B to take the belt off? and will there be any problems if it stays slight wobbly?
Click to expand...
Yeah, lossen A & B, but I would tighten A and wiggle the pulley to determine which part causing the wobbly. A slight wobble might not be a problem.
 
Thx for the info guys, do you think it's better to jst do the crank pulley then? Cuz it kinda makes sense to me that if you are gonna go with a lighter crank you should match up the others. I doubt it has any effect on performance, jst seems like they would be in more sync with all three swapped out??
 
wlvrn97 said:
Thx for the info guys, do you think it's better to jst do the crank pulley then? Cuz it kinda makes sense to me that if you are gonna go with a lighter crank you should match up the others. I doubt it has any effect on performance, jst seems like they would be in more sync with all three swapped out??
Click to expand...

From my research, the light weight crank pulley will yield the most benefit in the performance dept. The alternator and idler it really just for the eyes. I got my set at a good deal, so I change out all three.
 
wlvrn97 said:
Thx for the info guys, do you think it's better to jst do the crank pulley then? Cuz it kinda makes sense to me that if you are gonna go with a lighter crank you should match up the others. I doubt it has any effect on performance, jst seems like they would be in more sync with all three swapped out??
Click to expand...

The [ST]water pump[/ST] idler pulley from UR is within 0.1 lbs of the stock pulley on my scale. I wouldn't recommend it if you are looking for a performance benefit. I haven't weighed the alt pulley yet, but considering it is about 1/3 the size, I'd guess the difference between it and the oem unit is even less.
Functionally though, they two UR acc pulleys are identical to the oem acc pulleys.
 
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Thx tchuck and la, I was jst going to do the lightweight crank, stock size but I got a really good deal on the whole Stillen set so I wanted to do all 3. I believe they are jst
copies of the UR, but Stillen says they are even lighter? If it's too much of a pain, maybe I'll just install the crank and hold onto the other two until the next time I hit a shop. I thought they were relatively easy to install compared to the crank, but I guess I'm wrong...
 
wlvrn97 said:
Thx tchuck and la, I was jst going to do the lightweight crank, stock size but I got a really good deal on the whole Stillen set so I wanted to do all 3. I believe they are jst
copies of the UR, but Stillen says they are even lighter? If it's too much of a pain, maybe I'll just install the crank and hold onto the other two until the next time I hit a shop. I thought they were relatively easy to install compared to the crank, but I guess I'm wrong...
Click to expand...

I haven't done the alt pulley yet only because I don't have the right socket (I thought it was a 20mm, but it's actually larger) but the [ST]water pump[/ST] idler pulley is easier than the crank pulley. If you already have them, throw them on for sure. If nothing else they are pretty...

In regard to Stillen's weight claim...
Up to 80% lighter weight than stock steel and up to 10% lighter than other aftermarket pulleys, we’ve seen power gains of up to 10+ HP at the wheels.
Click to expand...
I think they are saying that their pulleys in general can achieve those claims. I doubt you will see anything even close to that with the FX pulleys. The oem [ST]water pump[/ST] idler pulley is only 0.6 lbs... Again, if you already have them then who cares? They look cool enough to warrant the install effort.
 
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Tim, did I miss something? which of the pulley you're referring to as the "water pump" pulley? I thought the water pump is internal that runs off the timing chain. Anyhow, you will need a 24 mm socket for alternator pulley nut.

wlvrn, change the idler pulley if you don't have an impact gun for the alternator pulley. The idler pulley is very easy to change out. At the very least, it please the eyes some more.
:wink:
 
la_fx35 said:
Tim, did I miss something? which of the pulley you're referring to as the "water pump" pulley? I thought the water pump is internal that runs off the timing chain. Anyhow, you will need a 24 mm socket for alternator pulley nut.
...
Click to expand...

You may have, or maybe it's mislabeled. It certainly doesn't look like an idler pulley... It's THIS one. here's a pic: (top right)

View attachment 237561

24mm. Nice, thanks. I'll grab one today.

EDIT: I just found a pic of the water pump. I think you're right. I guess it is an idler pulley.

View attachment 237564
 
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la_fx35 said:
Tim, did I miss something? which of the pulley you're referring to as the "water pump" pulley? I thought the water pump is internal that runs off the timing chain. Anyhow, you will need a 24 mm socket for alternator pulley nut.

wlvrn, change the idler pulley if you don't have an impact gun for the alternator pulley. The idler pulley is very easy to change out. At the very least, it please the eyes some more.
:wink:
Click to expand...

Thx la,
Hey how did you get ur alternator pulley off? Do you have an impact gun? I called a shop and they quoted me $350 to change all 3 pulleys!! I can try to do the crank
and idler myself but not gonna even try the alternator....I think they are asking waaay too much!!!
 
Tim this is for you :tongue (2):. You got me going for little there.

wlvrn, $350 :eek.:. That's nut.
To take the alternator pulley off. You need to take the alternator off the car because there just no room for the impact gun. A strong and fast impact gun will be in order! One that crank out 200lb of torque won't do it for me. I ended up pick one this and the nut comes right off instantly. But I had the hardest time getting the alternator off the car though, but I heard another member have no problem getting the alternator off.
 
Hey tchuck and la,
Question about the install....it says when removing the crank pulley to not pull on the outer diameter of the pulley so as not to damage the oil seal. How did you guys remove by wiggling it and not damaging the oil seal?? Thx for all ur help guys!!
 
DO NOT use anything to pry it out. I just wiggle and ease it out. It hard at first, but it will eventually come loose.
 
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