Any Bike Riders Out There?

[sir21]

I think the fastener lines hook up behind the hatch

 

[StuLax18]

But is there something supporting it horizontally, or is it just resting on the wiper or something?

 

[sir21]

Good question. Probably has some pads or cushions suctions attached to the hatch (or so I hope)

 

[APEEZY]

I know right but what else would the hooks attach too. So far no problem can drive up to 70 mph with very very little shake. It do just rest on the hatch with the hooks keeping it from sliding down.

2011 Gary Fisher (Trek) Marlin 29er Hardtail
Walmart bike rack for $40. Remember I don't have a tow hitch.
trailer hitch - $180
hitch - $70
bike rack - $150 - $300
trailer hitch lights - $100
total - $400 - $700

I take the bike rack...

 

[gto]

pics

 

[Bklynjohn718]

I know right but what else would the hooks attach too. So far no problem can drive up to 70 mph with very very little shake. It do just rest on the hatch with the hooks keeping it from sliding down.

2011 Gary Fisher (Trek) Marlin 29er Hardtail
Walmart bike rack for $40. Remember I don't have a tow hitch.
trailer hitch - $180
hitch - $70
bike rack - $150 - $300
trailer hitch lights - $100
total - $400 - $700

I take the bike rack...

Yea the prices to carry a bike are pretty harsh. When customers ask me about bike racks and hitches prices. There faces are like "are you serious".
Thank god for employee costs. Or i wouldn't have gotten a hitch and rack.


Sent from my iPhone

 

[APEEZY]

I will give more picks of the rack tomorrow. Plus I would look for the fastener lines on hatch.

 

[APEEZY]

Here's some pics of bike rack and how it mounts on FX hatch.

















I can also mount on roof rack railing.

 

[soonster]

pretty neat, esp for night riding.

Project Aura: Bicycle Safety Lighting System on Vimeo

 

[AeroBFA]

Unfortunately, I got into a bike accident last week and broke/shattered my wrist. I will be in a cast for several weeks, but that hasn't stopped me from dreaming of my next bike to get!

Trek Speed Concept

 

[PMG 705]

Nice looking bike.. Hope you'll get better soon Andrew.

I would like to get a bike like this, but I just cant justify the cost with the little amount of time I go biking, either thator those jerseys you need to wear lol.

 

[infinitifan25]

I am a bike rider.. I used to ride street with a 20"bmx now that im older i ride a bit bigger bike now. its a 2011 KHS DJ150 it a hard tail but its very versitile. since i still like jumping gaps and ledges and stairs I chose this bike. but still big enough to hit the trails or ride flat street and be comfortable. ill post pictures when I get off work but here is a stock photo. BTW Im looking for some 100mm lock out fork with disc anyone have one and i have a marzocchie dirt jump 3 hydraulic damp preloaded fork 100mm ill sell to somone else too or maybe even a trade?


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[StuLax18]

So I'm interested in getting a bike at school since I'm living a bit farther off campus. I probably don't want anything too expensive, or I'd just ship my bike out here. Part of me wants to buy a nicer bike and get back into mountain/trail riding in the area maybe.

I definitely don't want a cruiser type bike. One thing I thought about was sourcing the parts and building my own, but this could take more time than I have. Is there a noticeable savings of doing it this way? I wouldn't mind taking a bit more time if I can get a better bike for less.

I'm also kinda sad Gary Fisher is no longer the same anymore.

 

[turbocad6]

for a bike to be a nice trail or off road bike it has to be relatively light & relatively strong & have a great shifting drivetrain to avoid miss shifts & stalls on transitions & climbs... most will say that shimano xtr is the best, with xt being a pretty close second, just a bit heavier... a bike doesn't have to be very expensive to be good but it can't be built from cheap crap either.

one of my all time favorite trail bikes was built on a trek 820 chromoly frame... this is treks cheapest bike at like just a few hundred bucks for a complete bike but of course that's with all junk parts included, but I had it built up with all best components, all xtr, chris king wheel set etc etc... came in right around 18.5 lbs which is light... the frame itself was only like 4.2 lbs which is only ~1.3 lb heavier than the most exotic light weights in my size...

one reason I loved that bike so much aside from the plush ride that only a chromoly hard tail gives, is that it just looked like a cheapo crap bike to any bike snob, yet I would out climb & just beat all the local hotshots with there mega buck yeti's, lightspeeds & canondales... that bike was the most fun, it was like beating a Ferrari with a honda I always wanted to build a similar build with like a pacific frame or something, that would have really screwed with the other off roaders heads big time... the only time you seen a cheapo bike like that on the trails was with a n00b walking with it some of those cheap toys r us bikes can be well over 30lb's & the wheels would bend out of true the first big hit & then the gears would just bind up... the components make the bike...

don't get too hung up on a fancy frame just pay attention to the components, but unfortunately good components can be expensive too, you just gotta balance bang for the buck.... there are less expensive stuff that is still pretty good... stuff like xt shifters, maybe a bontrager crank or wheel set or a simple but basic quality mavic rimmed xt hubbed wheel even, not the best but def not junk either... if you know components & you shop around & collect used stuff you should be able to built a bike for ~$500 or less that will rival bikes that cost 4-5 times that in the performance category at least... top priority is a good drivetrain/shifters & a strong wheelset, then everything else really is more about weight than anything else... it goes like this, : light, strong & cheap, pick any 2 :tongue (2):

the difference between an 18 lb hardtail & a 28 lb hardtail when it comes to off road riding is huge.... a 38lb+ full suspension toys r us bike is just about useless, maybe don't matter nearly as much for just a bike that's flat street ridden... there you can do with much less... for off road hardtail I'd say to shoot for no more than 21 lbs, don't get too hung up on heavier disc brakes too, especially the cheaper ones, they may look cool but they are anti performance when it really comes down to it in the long run...

oh & least thing, that's actually the first thing as far as importance, especially for off road is fit, make sure you get the right size frame, trying to ride the wrong sized frame off road is a definite recipe for failure when it comes to off road riding... fit should be placed above all else in selecting a bike, a great bike that is grossly miss sized will suck more than a crap bike that fits you in the long run...

 

[LaxmaN]

A lot of great advice there turbo.

Here's mine Giant Trance X custom built by me 26.5 lbs on the scale. I got into Mt. biking about a year ago, Man I love this sport/hobby. I love technical trails like Ringwood, NJ and Jungle HAbitat in West Milford, NJ

 

[turbocad6]

wow, haven't been to ringwood in years, there's an area there I think it was that's closed off & off limits, but it's a really intense trail on the side of a mountain... probably the most extreme trail I've ever ridden... like a 3-4" shelf to ride then a 1,000 foot drop off the side... you def don't want to look down riding there

 

[shadow191]

The cost of building a bike is about what you'd spend to buy one. Manufacturer's get parts for much cheaper than you or I. The only reason to build your own is to spec parts that you like. I've tended to build my bikes because I know what I parts I prefer. I've been mountain biking for ~16 years and road biking for about 3. Components are much more critical on a mountain bike; they have to shift in the mud/dirt and abuse. I used to run XTR; not really worth the cost difference over XT honestly. But now I mostly run SRAM X0 (I prefer the shifting method). If you're only going to do light offroading, something down to the Shimano SLX level will be fine. For my road bike (a time trial bike since all I do is triathlons), most of the parts are Dura-Ace but I've ridden much lower levels of parts and couldn't tell much difference.

If you're on a budget, look on Craigslist. There are tons of bikes that have been lightly used and the owners realized that biking wasn't as fun as they thought it would be.

So I'm interested in getting a bike at school since I'm living a bit farther off campus. I probably don't want anything too expensive, or I'd just ship my bike out here. Part of me wants to buy a nicer bike and get back into mountain/trail riding in the area maybe.

I definitely don't want a cruiser type bike. One thing I thought about was sourcing the parts and building my own, but this could take more time than I have. Is there a noticeable savings of doing it this way? I wouldn't mind taking a bit more time if I can get a better bike for less.

I'm also kinda sad Gary Fisher is no longer the same anymore.

 

[PELON]

Most bike shops have big markdowns right now, search around and see. In my opinion people either under by, ( a bike that is not capable of what they are wanting it to do.) or over buy ( lay down alot of money. ride a little. then park in garage)
I say buy something slightly higher than your abilities and ride til either you or it breaks, then upgrade.

 

[soapish]

Nice pics in this thread. I do street bmx whenever I have to go places lol... still an amateur. Riding a stock GT (not sure about specs) will update post with pics later.

 

[315fx35]

non peddler