Chedman13's 2003 FX45

Looking good, Ed. The tweeter add lot to the eyes there. I can't wait to hear your new sound system.
 
la_fx35 said:
Looking good, Ed. The tweeter add lot to the eyes there. I can't wait to hear your new sound system.
Click to expand...

Sound system is tuned so if you close your eyes (do this while you're driving, just kidding), you feel like your front and center in a concert or if this makes sense, in a recording studio listening to vocals.

Basically the vocals are right there, no distoration, as loud as it can go, crisp and clean. Simply amazing.

The cons that I need to have figured out (help if you can):
1) Bose sub CANNOT keep up and is too weak. Maybe try the kicker subs, I really won't add a box to the rear so only option I can think of.

2) If I leave the radio on when I turn off the car and turn the car back on, I get a quick crackle through the speakers. Not sure what that is... any ideas?

3) Sound stream (sound processor) is connected to a constant power source, maybe that's the issue? The power light is on 24/7.

4) I do miss the center speaker... Bose does an amazing job and have a lot of respect. At low volumes, the Bose is amazing, turn it louder, the aftermarket Alpines are 100x better. So pros and cons here.

5) Alpine AMP shut off and I have to cycle the car off and on to get the radio to start again if the sub "blows". I think I'm sending too much power and I can hear it hit, and physically hit the top of the Bose box and bam, system turns off as a fail safe or something. I keep tuning the Bose sub too high with my sub controller, because it's so weak=(

Overall, night and day difference. Andy, I am positive you will be blown away with this stealth install. I think it will make you want to get new speakers and amps.

I really think only the front door speakers and tweeters need to be done, the rest stay stock. Just getting a good component set would do the trick for a stealth install, but not an all out system. This is just for better than OEM, and noticeable.

---------- Post added at 09:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:23 AM ----------
wlvrn97 said:
Cool Ed...did you get your Unichip back yet?? Did they make those maps for you yet?
Click to expand...

Unichip is done, once I sent it in and got it in Aaron's hands -- he did it FAST.

I've been extremely busy with a house move so haven't been able to call Aaron to have them ship it to me (he wants to discuss the maps).

---------- Post added at 09:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:29 AM ----------
la_fx35 said:
I didn't realize Costco sells 93 Octane gas! Need to get those Unichip maps done!
Costco93Octane.jpg
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Sweet. Yeah 91 and 93 are key as there are a lot of places I go where 93 is not available.

---------- Post added at 09:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:29 AM ----------
Slamming45 said:
Ed this looks fantastic! Pretty jelous I'm not gonna lie. Did you win the lottery baller hustle?
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Thanks man. I'm really fortunate, my cousin does the installs for me in between cars. He owns a car shop that does audio, regular maintenance, and performance stuff.

---------- Post added at 09:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:33 AM ----------
Dr.2K said:
Looking great Ed!
Click to expand...

:tup:
 
Yeah, I really loving your sound system components completely stealth. I don't like to have a box in the back too. I have been drooling on Lance's WickedCAS in his storage if he ever let it go at a good price :wink:. Otherwise I will have to bite the bullet and get the sub casing from WickedCAS.

I'm sure someone here will have lot more car audio experience will chime in on the crackles on start up. I'm a sponge on car audio!

I don't like the idea of having something constantly on or drawing even just a little power in the car. Unless there is a good reason in doing so. Otherwise, I always use a relay to trigger the power flow to the components once the key is in accessory/ignition mode.
 
1) You can call Wicked CAS or search this forum for a coupon, I think they re activated it for around $275 or around $100 off (don't quote me on that).

2) Only downfall that my cousin said about the sub was that it's pointed east/west. Not sure the reasoning as I didn't ask, but it has to be 10x better than the OEM subs.

3) Yeah, I'm still thinking of the WickedCAS box. Only thing is that you have to modify the cargo plastic piece or you can't use it. Also, the rear cargo organizer, I have to cut too to make it work.

The cargo organizer is a life saver for grocery trips, as I like to take corners without items shifting in the car.

The components hit HARD, almost equal to the rear subs from my opinion.

la_fx35 said:
Yeah, I really loving your sound system components completely stealth. I don't like to have a box in the back too. I have been drooling on Lance's WickedCAS in his storage if he ever let it go at a good price :wink:. Otherwise I will have to bite the bullet and get the sub casing from WickedCAS.

I'm sure someone here will have lot more car audio experience will chime in on the crackles on start up. I'm a sponge on car audio!

I don't like the idea of having something constantly on or drawing even just a little power in the car. Unless there is a good reason in doing so. Otherwise, I always use a relay to trigger the power flow to the components once the key is in accessory/ignition mode.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the idea, I need to ground the sound stream to something else, right now it's creating a loop causing the feedback.

Hidden in the manual in small print...=)

Thanks Andy.

la_fx35 said:
Yeah, I really loving your sound system components completely stealth. I don't like to have a box in the back too. I have been drooling on Lance's WickedCAS in his storage if he ever let it go at a good price :wink:. Otherwise I will have to bite the bullet and get the sub casing from WickedCAS.

I'm sure someone here will have lot more car audio experience will chime in on the crackles on start up. I'm a sponge on car audio!

I don't like the idea of having something constantly on or drawing even just a little power in the car. Unless there is a good reason in doing so. Otherwise, I always use a relay to trigger the power flow to the components once the key is in accessory/ignition mode.
Click to expand...
 
la_fx35 said:
Yeah, I really loving your sound system components completely stealth. I don't like to have a box in the back too. I have been drooling on Lance's WickedCAS in his storage if he ever let it go at a good price :wink:. Otherwise I will have to bite the bullet and get the sub casing from WickedCAS.

I'm sure someone here will have lot more car audio experience will chime in on the crackles on start up. I'm a sponge on car audio!

I don't like the idea of having something constantly on or drawing even just a little power in the car. Unless there is a good reason in doing so. Otherwise, I always use a relay to trigger the power flow to the components once the key is in accessory/ignition mode.
Click to expand...

Just need verification that Ed's system kicks ass and I don't need it Andy =) Ed, show me the way! Just the front end of the system needs what? How are you going to add bass back in without a sub box? Rear doors?
 
Did you put a delay Pac module on the remote wire? This stopped the pop for me. It also boosts the Voltage from the bose turn on lead.
 
Chedman13 said:
...

3) Sound stream (sound processor) is connected to a constant power source, maybe that's the issue? The power light is on 24/7.

...

5) Alpine AMP shut off and I have to cycle the car off and on to get the radio to start again if the sub "blows". I think I'm sending too much power and I can hear it hit, and physically hit the top of the Bose box and bam, system turns off as a fail safe or something. I keep tuning the Bose sub too high with my sub controller, because it's so weak=(

...

I really think only the front door speakers and tweeters need to be done, the rest stay stock. Just getting a good component set would do the trick for a stealth install, but not an all out system. This is just for better than OEM, and noticeable.

...
Click to expand...

3) Not sure if the constant power is causing your crackling issue but the fact that it is constantly powered up is a problem. That processor has a remote terminal and the sole purpose is to turn it off when the ignition is off. The fact that it powers up at all implies that it's probably got a constant signal in the "remote" terminal rather than the ignition dependent signal it should have.

5) That sound is distortion, not the drivers hitting the enclosure. Your input level is too high on the sub section of the amp. Your amp is sensing a closed circuit condition that occurs when the woofer's impedance drops below a predetermined threshold (the amp's safe zone) by being over-exerted. If the Bose woofers won't keep up, then they won't keep up, but if you keep recreating that situation they will yield; probably sooner than later.

The problem with replacing the components without replacing the amp is that the processing is done by the Bose amp and "perfectly" suited to the Bose drivers. Certain frequencies may be improved by swapping the drivers alone, but other frequencies will certainly be adversely affected.
 
Damnit Tim, speak English! :rofl:

3) You're exactly right. Easy enough fix, I should have read the manual in more detail, but there is a warning in the Sound Stream about this.

5) I also realized I have the Bose subwoofer's wired in parallel and not in series... whoops, even though you warned me about this. Not sure if that will do it too.

Modding is always an adventure, at least I learn something every time.

I can "hear" Handy_Andy's brain just absorbing all this information as he cleverly thinks up his own system without a flaw, using my trial and error as his guinea pig...

I just thought of an awesome location for subwoofers without losing space. Putting Kicker subs in the rear speakers that are in the cargo area on top. Metal housing, but can shave to fit.

BTW, for those that have NOT dynomatted their doors... WOW amazing difference (even without a stereo system). Closing the door, you get the solid "thud" of a German car (comparing with my BMW).

Night and day difference, everyone should do it. I also closed off any and all holes -- whether this is good or bad, I dynomatted it shut and duct tapes it over. Let the flaming begin on this...=)

BTW, Sound Stream, barely fits where it is in the side compartment. It sticks out a little, due to the contours.

Might put where stock bose amp was, but I have to extend the wires stock wires then =(


tchuck said:
3) Not sure if the constant power is causing your crackling issue but the fact that it is constantly powered up is a problem. That processor has a remote terminal and the sole purpose is to turn it off when the ignition is off. The fact that it powers up at all implies that it's probably got a constant signal in the "remote" terminal rather than the ignition dependent signal it should have.

5) That sound is distortion, not the drivers hitting the enclosure. Your input level is too high on the sub section of the amp. Your amp is sensing a closed circuit condition that occurs when the woofer's impedance drops below a predetermined threshold (the amp's safe zone) by being over-exerted. If the Bose woofers won't keep up, then they won't keep up, but if you keep recreating that situation they will yield; probably sooner than later.

The problem with replacing the components without replacing the amp is that the processing is done by the Bose amp and "perfectly" suited to the Bose drivers. Certain frequencies may be improved by swapping the drivers alone, but other frequencies will certainly be adversely affected.
Click to expand...


---------- Post added at 10:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:10 AM ----------

Finally called Aaron back at UniChip: Here are the final maps:
MAP1:IMMOBILIZER
MAP2:VALET MODE
MAP3:ECONOMY 87 OCTANE CAI/EXHAUST
MAP4:AGGRESIVE 91 OCTANE CAI/EXHAUST
MAP5:AGGRESSIVE 93 OCTANE CAI/EXHAUST

I wanted Economy 91 octane, since I don't put anything less, but this is what they gave me. Not too concerned as I will still run economy 87 mode using 91 octane, which is perfectly fine going up a grade.

I did buy a USB cable, so I can upload my data to Aaron so he can fine tune the maps later.

The only mods that mattered for the tune are CAI and Exhaust.
 
Chedman13 said:
Damnit Tim, speak English! :rofl:

3) You're exactly right. Easy enough fix, I should have read the manual in more detail, but there is a warning in the Sound Stream about this.

5) I also realized I have the Bose subwoofer's wired in parallel and not in series... whoops, even though you warned me about this. Not sure if that will do it too.

Modding is always an adventure, at least I learn something every time.

I can "hear" Handy_Andy's brain just absorbing all this information as he cleverly thinks up his own system without a flaw, using my trial and error as his guinea pig...

I just thought of an awesome location for subwoofers without losing space. Putting Kicker subs in the rear speakers that are in the cargo area on top. Metal housing, but can shave to fit.

BTW, for those that have NOT dynomatted their doors... WOW amazing difference (even without a stereo system). Closing the door, you get the solid "thud" of a German car (comparing with my BMW).

Night and day difference, everyone should do it. I also closed off any and all holes -- whether this is good or bad, I dynomatted it shut and duct tapes it over. Let the flaming begin on this...=)

BTW, Sound Stream, barely fits where it is in the side compartment. It sticks out a little, due to the contours.

Might put where stock bose amp was, but I have to extend the wires stock wires then =(




---------- Post added at 10:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:10 AM ----------

Finally called Aaron back at UniChip: Here are the final maps:
MAP1:IMMOBILIZER
MAP2:VALET MODE
MAP3:ECONOMY 87 OCTANE CAI/EXHAUST
MAP4:AGGRESIVE 91 OCTANE CAI/EXHAUST
MAP5:AGGRESSIVE 93 OCTANE CAI/EXHAUST

I wanted Economy 91 octane, since I don't put anything less, but this is what they gave me. Not too concerned as I will still run economy 87 mode using 91 octane, which is perfectly fine going up a grade.

I did buy a USB cable, so I can upload my data to Aaron so he can fine tune the maps later.

The only mods that mattered for the tune are CAI and Exhaust.
Click to expand...


Ed,
On the maps...awesome. Will probably do something similar. Will call Aaron to see if he
can jst transfer your maps to a 35. I think Andy will be doing this too....

On the dynomat, where can I get and how hard is this to do? Any DIYs on here?
 
wlvrn97 said:
Ed,
On the maps...awesome. Will probably do something similar. Will call Aaron to see if he
can jst transfer your maps to a 35. I think Andy will be doing this too....

On the dynomat, where can I get and how hard is this to do? Any DIYs on here?
Click to expand...

Absolutely, I wanted the same mapping that Ed had laid out. Damien, let me know how it goes with having Aaron with transfer/convert/modify Ed's maps for out 35.

Check out this DIY on Dynamat the doors; ///8504

Ed, did you dynamat onto the the outer skin of the door or like how Jumbo did it on the inner metal panel. From sound of thing, I sense you took the inner metal panel off and apply the dynmat on the outer door skin, right?
 
la_fx35 said:
Absolutely, I wanted the same mapping that Ed had laid out. Damien, let me know how it goes with having Aaron with transfer/convert/modify Ed's maps for out 35.

Check out this DIY on Dynamat the doors; ///8504



Hey Andy...yeah I'll let you know when I order mine an about two weeks. I'm thinking
it shouldn't be that difficult for them to use Ed's as a model but map for our engines.

Gotta try this dynomat thing...Invidia drone is starting to get on my nerves :laugh:
Click to expand...
 
Chedman13 said:
cool, so I wire this on the Alpine remote subwoofer control knob wire?
Click to expand...
This actually wires in line with your remote turn on wire before hooking it to your amplifier. Nothing to do with the remote control knob. If you are splicing into the Bose sub harness I think it's the pink wire, but doubble check on that I'm not 100%. Hooked mine up a while back. When you come by and pick up the Manta Ray I'll take a peek and offer some suggestions. Help if I can, I don't mind.
 
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