HOW TO: Changing Transmission Fluid

Yeah I'd like to know this too. I had the Transgo put in last month and I was wondering if I should check my tranny fluid level every once in awhile? Though the dipstick is a pain to get to.

Yes, I just checked mine. It's behind the engine, at least on my FX45. I top it off there too using a long funnel.

You know you're a car guy when you unpack your moving boxes and you have $200 worth of Nissan Matic J you didn't know about.
 
I remember you had a box Matic J way in the back end of your storage. Oh you finally got them out of your storage. Hahaha.
 
Any reason to not just do it same as the diff using the points in this pic? Only thing I can think is that maybe this is a 6MT, as I found this on a Z site DIY, and ours may be different.

Diff_fluid_tutorial_004.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Diff_fluid_tutorial_004.jpg
    Diff_fluid_tutorial_004.jpg
    46.5 KB · Views: 37
Just ordered a case of Matic S from everythingg35.com; best price I could find. But can someone tell me which cooler line is the return? Driver/Pass?

EDIT: Found this elsewhere.
1. Start engine while engine is cold
2. Place transmission shift lever in drive for no more than 10 seconds
3. Place in Park, stop engine, and remove keys
4. Identify the oil return line by feeling both oil lines. The coolest line is the oil return line.

Did this after the car sat overnight in the garage, ATF still warm from night before. So it appears to be the passenger side. Which makes sense according to the manual, since doing the flush from that side would push the old fluid from the cooler, too. Will update post ater I do this to see just how many of my 12 quarts it takes to have the fluid clear up. Not doing more than 12 under any circumstances.

SECOND EDIT - Ended up using the high side to cooler from the transmission, used 11 quarts and now wearing much of it. :/ Stopped at 11, left a quart in case I was low, but dead on. Never really changed color that I could see, but certainly better off than before I started, since it's never been done. Drained the sump first and replaced (<4 quarts) , then added 7 from top. Just FYI, the same crush washer that the fits the oil drain fits the trans sump. Shifts fine so far.
 
Last edited:
okay so i read this whole thread. A few members asked this and I don't think it was answered with a straight answer. I'm also curious to know. I have 65k on my 2004 fx35. Should we do a drain/fill or flush for the transmission or don't touch it at all?? I just don't want to deal with transmission problems later on. When i'm here spending money modding my car lol. Thank you
 
IMO, I'd just buy 4 quarts and drain/fill with that mileage. Just measure what comes out and replace the exact amount.
 
Last edited:
Dealership wants to do a flush with a fancy machine for $140. Here's what they describe will happen:

Operation Description:
Using a state-of-the-art machine, one of our specially trained technicians will use a safe and effective cleaner to dissolve and suspend the varnish and gums in the transmission, valve body, torque converter, pan, filter element, transmission lines, and transmission cooler. The technician will then flush the entire unit of all old fluid and suspended debris and install new transmission fluid of the proper specification and fortify the new fluid with seal conditioners, oxidation inhibitors and friction modifiers. Finally, he will run the vehicle to operating temperature and ensure that the automatic transmission fluid is filled to the correct level.

Significance:
When was the last time you had your vehicle’s transmission serviced? Have you experienced slipping, hard shifting, or chattering? All of this can indicate that an automatic transmission flush service is needed.

Advantage:
By having your automatic transmission cleaned and its fluid replaced every 2 years or 30,000 miles, you can keep the transmission running efficiently, restore transmission fluid circulation, help prevent overheating, smooth shifting and transmission operation, and reduce transmission wear. All of this helps you avoid costly future repairs to the transmission.​


This sounds completely different from any process described in this thread. It sounds to me like they are talking about removing the build up via machine before putting all new fluid in. Thoughts?
 
Last edited:
Back
Top