HOW TO: Changing Transmission Fluid

i was asking my self the same question. why remove the radiator hose when there is a draining plug..

so now that we know there is a draining plug my question is.. should a trans fluid change be as easy as a oil change? just drain and filled?
 
According to the manual you have to drain the pan....and refill. After that you follow the steps listed in this diy. I beleive if you just drain the pan, you are not really changing anything or much.
 
fxlr8 said:
According to the manual you have to drain the pan....and refill. After that you follow the steps listed in this diy. I beleive if you just drain the pan, you are not really changing anything or much.
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Got it! thanks Jeff!
 
Mongolian said:
do it and tell me how much drains out. I will follow your footsteps
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X2, so anyone know how much comes out of the pan when you remove the drain plug?
Id rather start off there, then do the flush, just wondering how much you lose from the pan since you have to "fill with same amount as was drained" The manual only gives the full capacity, not how much comes out of each step?
Id also rather remove the drain plug to get the shavings/debris off the plug, since thats how it is on every other automatic transmission ive ever serviced.
 
Does it matter what brand of A/T fluid goes in the car? The website(partsgeek. com) lists several brands that are all Matic-J fluid...
 
so has any1 else besides shralp done this? i'd like to get some further input since theres seems to be conflicting ideas of what you should or shouldn't do.
 
herostar said:
Does it matter what brand of A/T fluid goes in the car? The website(partsgeek. com) lists several brands that are all Matic-J fluid...
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Matic J is the older version, Nissan makes matic S now, both OEM compatible. so it doesn't matter whether you use J or S. but i suggest you use Nissan transmission fluid to maintain any warranty you have.


SpecialFX said:
X2, so anyone know how much comes out of the pan when you remove the drain plug?
Id rather start off there, then do the flush, just wondering how much you lose from the pan since you have to "fill with same amount as was drained" The manual only gives the full capacity, not how much comes out of each step?
Id also rather remove the drain plug to get the shavings/debris off the plug, since thats how it is on every other automatic transmission ive ever serviced.
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you can drain the oil from the pan and then fill it, in this step i think you could use the charging pipe between quarts to measure if you have put the right amount of oil in the pan.
 
Transmission Fluid Change

Hi, I'm new to this forum and FX35 ownership but I believe I read somewhere that 3.5- 4 quarts are drained out of the pan and then 2 more quarts will go into the charging pipe while idling. As far as not changing the fluid at all once you drain some tranny fluid that's been in there a while and compare it to fresh fluid you won't question the need for a fluid change. Thanks, William
 
i did a lil digging around the borg and the consensus is a 'flush' isn't recommended because of possible damage to seals and gaskets inside the transmission. drain and fill it is for me.
 
In case anyone was wondering, its 3.5 qts when you drain just the pan, did it this morning...
Surprisingly at 86k miles, the fluid still looked great, must have been serviced when we bought it at 50k, fluid was still pretty red, barely darker than the new stuff.
 
So how much Fluid I should order?
1- drain a pan- 3qts.
2 "flush" frim DIY from radiator hose ? 6qts?

9-10 total?
or "flush" will clean out of Pan ? and i need 6 qts only?

BTW , why not synthetic ? I switch early in my 350z- what a diff!
Thx

---------- Post added at 08:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:38 PM ----------

Non-Slip CVT
  • Designed specifically for use in metal belt-type Continuously Variable Transmissions including including Daihatsu, Nissan, and Subaru
  • Includes anti-wear additives for improved metal-to-metal protection in torque-converter clutches and offers consistent performance over broad temperature range
  • Synthetic basestocks offer improved shear characteristics, improved thermal stability, and extended drain intervals (up to 30,000 miles, follow manufacturers specifications)
  • This product is not recommended for use in Honda vehicles with wet-start clutches, clutch-type CVT in Audi applications, torodial or dry units
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  • Each offer improved thermal stability, maintain viscosity levels, and feature lower volatility while providing the required frictional characteristics of each fluid's OEM-style replacement
  • Reduced oxidation and lower volatility at high temperature
  • Allows high-temp operation without varnishing valves and clutches
  • Extended drain intervals
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TYPICAL PROPERTIES
ASTM D2983 Vis @ -40°C120 PoiseVis @ 100°C, cSt7.2Vis @ 40°C, cSt36.7VI165Pour Point, °C-51Pour Point, °F-60Flash Point, °C224Flash Point, °F435
 
we are a bit divided on how to change the tranny oil. a drain and fill while engine running is what i have done and i added 6 qts. but for added sense of security, go ahead and rain the whole oil from the pan first and then measure and add new oil accordingly.
 
This sounds like the best and easiest way to do it...

quoted from g35driver:
Blue Dream said:
Actually the transmission holds 10 3/4 quarts. The 30,000 and 60,000 mile services call for a drain and fill which takes about 3 1/2 quarts to do.

OP what I would do is buy 8 quarts, drain the pan, and refill with 3 1/2 quarts. Drive 50-100 miles and repeat the process. Give the car about 1-2000 miles and repeat. That way you don't shock the tranny all at once with new fluid. I don't think the tranny has been hurt unless you track your car but check your fluid ASAP. If it is dark or brown and smells burnt, you probably need to ignore my first advice and take it to the dealer for a complete flush and fill.

The tranny fluid is Nissan S-Matic, it replaced the J-Matic and is the only transmission fluid recommended for our engines.
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I am overdue for this.
 
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