Transgo Shift Kit Installation

ELECTRICAL/TCM related codes that replacing the Valve Body WILL NOT correct
P1710 - ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit P0717 - Turbine Revolution Speed Sensor
P0740 - TCC Solenoid Circuit P0744 - A/T TCC Solenoid Voltage Function
P0745 - Line Pressure Solenoid Circuit P1752 - I/C Solenoid Circuit
P1754 I/C Solenoid Function P1757 FR/B Solenoid Circuit
P1759 FR/B Solenoid Function P1762 D/C Solenoid Circuit
P1764 D/C Solenoid Function P1767 HLR/C Solenoid Circuit
P1769 HLR/C Solenoid Function P1772 LC/B Solenoid Circuit
P1774 LC/B Solenoid Function P1815 Manual Mode Switch Circuit
P1841 ATF Pressure Switch #1 Circuit P1843 ATF Pressure Switch #3 Circuit
P1845 ATF Pressure Switch #5 Circuit P1846 ATF Pressure Switch #6 Circuit
Hmm ... copied & pasted above from sonnax. p1754, 59, 64, 69 are my lucky 4 & replacing the v.b. will not correct these? One more notch under level 10's belt that tcm is at fault.
 
Anyone out there that's installed transgo please tell me about the page in instructions that show the removal of temp. sensor on bottom left then at bottom right it shows the bolt, small cover, spring & large checkball. Which goes in first, the spring or the checkball? Waiting on getting the v.b., instructions, etc. back. Apparently, checkball then spring but from what I remember the instructions show the spring then the check ball. I installed the spring then checkball & apparently, according to IPT that's backasswards.
 
I am a fool w/the tool. Yes, I am a moron. I clearly remembered the spring & then checkball though it's the checkball & then the spring! Got a somewhat photographic memory, at least I did? It's right there on the damn instructions! It's as though I had temporary dyslexia. When the trans. started throwing codes, I panicked rather than braking it all back down and checking every last little thing w/the help of the fsm. I'm going to blame this major fault on quitting smoking, I mean what the hell was I thinking? Tobacco withdrawal is a beeatch & I learned this the hard way. In the end, I've been smoke-free for near three weeks now w/no interest in picking one up w/the help from vaping & feeling a lot better now which really softens the blow from this foolish episode.
What can be gleaned from reading the multiple posts above from this half-witted, panic-attacked rambling of a recent ex-smoker known as onthemove?
1. Level 10 is not to be trusted imo. He said "just buy a new v.b. & tcm". I believe the many many negative reviews to be true now. They will not get my business when I get my trans. built.
2. Sunbelt (5 yr warranty/$750) & usa transmission parts (lifetime warranty/$700) have the v.b./tcm units that are good-to-go, programmed to your vin # or if you have a rare bird like mine, which is the 1st design & they don't have the v.b./tcm, one can send in the unit & they'll do what's necessary to get it back up & running & probably for less, depending on the issue.
3. Thumbs up to IPT for intuitively knowing that something was amiss with the mechanicals, getting the thing fixed, doing so quickly & for far less than a new or rem. unit. Thank you John & Ken!
4. If you've got a bad habit & want to dump it, do so but plan on the many potential herxheimer reactions clouding your judgement, among other things.
Nissan, Infiniti & Jatco are cool & I can eat a fat one!!!
 
So your transmission is fixed then? Was that all that it was? The ball and spring thing? Was anything damaged as a result?
 
Dont be too hard on yourself man. I saw Andy's step by step & it looked menacing with all the parts in a hundred little boxes. I opted for a pro to do it
 
Yep.. I give huge props for trying it. I really wanted to do mine myself, but the time and organization needed are something I only dream of having. On top of all that, I commend your patience and persistence!
 
Yes Datman, trans. is good to go. I could tell no one ever dropped the pan & to my amazement, everything was pretty damn clean. 91k miles. Hardly anything other than lightly grey trans. fluid that had to be wiped off the pan & v.b.. Nothing sticking to the magnets. Swapped out new fluid twice, so it must be all valvoline by now. After all my b.s., stress & drama, it was still worth it. Apparently Jatco made the re5r05a idiot proof!
I don't blame you for farming it out gto, if not only for the time consumption & mess but it is absolutely totally doable by anyone who's able to keep their wits about them. One of few things I didn't even question looking over again bit me right in the azz. Damn.
Thanks Pork&beans. If only my patience was fixated on the v.b. & going back over it 100%. Transgo had me check the three new valves on the left & the main regulator valve, top right. After this, v.b. back in & they wanted me to do a pressure test & scanned which I am not equipped to do. I wasn't about to tow the thing & leave it somewhere, being @ the mercy of who knows who @ some trans. shop. I should've dug deeper before giving up. That won't happen again.
Will be completing a wire tuck real soon. Driver & passenger sides done a month back. I'll do a write-up on it. There's an old thread already started on this somewhere. Also will do a write-up on my own version of a 4" custom intake. Got dyno-proven results of 5 ft lbs & 9 hp across the chart over & above old z-tube, k&n drop-in & deleted baffle setup. Probably won't have it too much longer though as it's no longer usefull w/fi, but will still do a write-up w/photos for others.
 
Also, since I was in for a rebuild anyway, shop offered to do the transgo at the same time. Part cost only. Win-Win
 
Nice. Would like a trans. from IPT but pita as they're in Jersey. No drop-offs. Level 10 allows for drop-off but f that. No level 10 for me. IPT's got a kit, so if I can find a reputable trans. shop, that would be my ticket. Higher stall, better internals, shift kit already in (cough) & ought to be good for 500 awhp but won't push it. Level 10 claims they've got an a/t setup good for 1000 awhp. Sure they do. Wonder if any w/awd fx has an IPT trans build?
 
1sq1 said:
Folks is this transgo available for 2nd gen FX? I would like to give this a go.
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I'd would find out just what model # the trans. you have is 1st then look online for the kit. Guys @ Transgo aren't there on the weekend, so you could find out now or wait till Monday & call'em.
 
I've read what many have said about how this shift kit performs. I finally really got on it today in manual mode. Been afraid since I f'd the thing up. I feel the lurch forward but I feel a jolt even more so. The thing just bangs right into gear. It feels like the front end is coming up &/or the rear is squatting down, like leaving off the line hard. It caught me off guard a bit. A pencil-necked person might get whiplash from 1st-2nd & 2nd-3rd. Didn't get into 4th @ WOT. Already going too fast. It's awd and I can hear the slightest chirp, barely audible over the invidia exhaust. Can't tell if it's the front or rear tires but will assume it's coming from the rear.
Under normal driving conditions, 1st-2nd & 2nd-3rd shifts are tighter but not much. 3rd-4th, nice tight positive shift & more firm than the first 2 shifts. Into 5th, almost a double shift. 5th is hard to explain but it feels good.
I always pop it in neutral approaching a stop. Sometimes I downshift, especially in traffic & don't use the brakes much. Each action, from neutral to drive then to manual mode & manual to drive then to neutral, the shifter itself feels firmed up, like it's new. I agree with those that say it's the best or one of the best mods. Still feeling like a diiiiick after botching the install but oh well.
 
Good to see you're enjoying the car again. Slight lift before the gear change will smooth out the shift.

Why would you bother going to neutral? Also forces u to make a full stop
& outside of a canyon drive where I need to drop a gear, under normal street driving I would rather use brakes than make that expensive trans work any harder than it needs to. Just MO
 
gto said:
Good to see you're enjoying the car again. Slight lift before the gear change will smooth out the shift.

Why would you bother going to neutral? Also forces u to make a full stop
& outside of a canyon drive where I need to drop a gear, under normal street driving I would rather use brakes than make that expensive trans work any harder than it needs to. Just MO
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Sometimes downshift, sometimes just neutral when it's obvious I'll be stopping. At a light, it's in neutral until green unless I need to move out quick. Engine/trans not under load & no foot on brake unless on incline/decline - not why I do it, just like the action & even after owning fx 12 years, will always miss manual trans. but manual mode is nice compromise.
Should've been more specific. I use brakes, but in traffic, stop & go or coming to a red, I downshift. I used to think that might cause extra wear on tranny but have read some leading me to believe otherwise. In heavy traffic, don't use brakes too often but not running up on bumpers. I like a little space. Always had a manual trans. before the FX.
 
1sq1 said:
Nice to know its really worth doing this mod. I hope its avalable for 2nd gen.
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If shift kit not available, IPT does valve body work. Same thing or better. Only bummer is you cannot save $ by diy. One can pull the v.b., send it to them, 1-2 day turn-around & back to u. If you dropped it on a Sunday, you'd prob. have it back up & running the following weekend using just ground shipping (typically 2 days) depending where u are.
The way this kit acts & compared to what some here but also others on g35/350z sites have said, I suspect IPT did a bit more than just "fix" what I fouled up. Wasn't cheap ($350) just to fix issue. Could be in my head. Feels like my buddies old 70 chevelle ss the way it bangs through gears. Also, read many, not hear but elsewhere, that shift kit gives no benefit to 0-60 or 1/4 mile times. Lol. BS. It absolutely does. Porsche, GTR, etc. doesn't snap into gear instead of slip-sliding into gear for no reason.
 
la_fx35 said:
Nice to see you enjoying the mod. Paddle shifter mod next :)
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That is a trick deal, no doubt. Guess I'm too old school. Want my shifter on the floor & my key in the ignition. Next on the to-do is wrapping up wire tuck, then explain to my tuner how I f'd up the trans. kit install while I'm there to get compression/leak down test. Think I'll tell him "ah...yeah, dumbasses @ transgo had the wrong piece in the kit". Kidding.
 
Took a wide corner slow in 1st gear, manual mode & as I straightened out I went wot, shifted into 2nd around 7200 rpm and one of the rears chirped for sure, loud & clear. I wonder if pulling the fuse for vdc shuts down part or all awd function (?) or if conditions are just right for power delivery & awd isn't quick enough to catch the excessive wheel spin to stop it? Pulled vdc because rear brake dust was excessive compared to front. Fixed that but may have lost awd.
 
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