Jesusjones1024
Member
- Car
- 2003 FX35 RWD
- Name
- Ross
So it's 12 A.M. the night before my first Track Day with the FX. I'm in a hotel and trying to sleep on a bed David Copperfield would be uncomfortable in. My girlfriend (and the next morning's co-pilot) rolls over and asks, "Is your car going to flip over?" Offended by both her lack of confidence in my driving and the bed spring poking into my back like a middle school dance (karma), I mutter something like "it's on a 350Z platform!" and flail around in the dark for my phone. Half-blinded, I search youtube for "FX35 race track" and magically come across "GTO-Dave" throwing his sexy beast at Autocross cones like Pac Man on a bender...needless to say it quickly eased her worries.
The next day was one of the most exhilarating days of my driving life. If you don't know what it's like to slam your gas pedal to the floor AND NOT THINK "Oh God, I hope there are no cops around" then you are missing out my friend. Really you ask? Europeans put up with governments taking 70% of their income as long as they can drive on the Autobahn. Yes really (kidding, slightly).
My previous experience on a track was with a manual Mustang, and while they are both very different driving cars, I hands down had more fun with the FX. As mentioned, being built on a 350/70Z frame gives these "bionic cheetahs" more than enough tools to make posh
sport-cars nervous.
With that being said, I spent some time on this forum and others getting prepared for the Spokane Speedway Track Day ($85 for 6 hours. I posted a short clip of the racing below). The tips/tricks were invaluable and my hope is the many who are on the fence about taking your FX on the track, first: DO IT. And second: take a week or so to follow the proper steps to make sure your baby can make the transition from daily driver (most of us) to race car - and back again.
While old news to some of you (a big shout out to GTO-Dave for adding @ least 2 hours of sleep to my weekend), I contribute the following based on hours of research (some info taken and applied from linked articles) and my personal experience. It is a short list, and in my opinion, bare-bones/budget (no superchargers, TT). Not all are essential but many are a good idea. This is an open conversation so please let me know what you think.
Later, I'll put together a list of upgrades that I plan on doing based on this weekend's performance.
"
Taking your FX to the Race Track - FOR DUMMIES
(No particular order)
Performance Parts (remember to tune or reset ECU after installs):
(Note; if you don't trust yourself/have a trusted mechanic, Les Schwab does Free Brake Inspections)
LEARN TO LEFT FOOT BRAKE!!!!!! - Seriously. In most racing schools this is mandatory (even for manual drivers). It is a challenge to reverse years of right foot interference, lots of hard stops, but once you get the hang of it there's no going back. Read this if you don't believe me.
Preparation:
(The following are snippets taken from this article. Important/helpful stuff.)
1. (Pre-Race) Car Prep - Take it to your local mechanic at the beginning of the season (typically just before spring) for a full tune up and inspection. OIL CHANGE. All fluids need to be topped off or replaced, seat belts functional, and the brake lines need to have good pressure (a few pumps before starting the car should make the pedal firm). Oh, and as the folklore goes, half a tank means half a second saved – fuel up only as much as you’ll need for the day of the race.
2. (Pre-Race) Racing Gear - Your helmet (2000 or newer rating, check SCCA rulebook for detail), driving gloves, a separate pair of driving shoes, and a GoPro or other action cam. Finally, anything to help with car setup, such as: a tire pressure gauge, basic tool set, torque wrench, detailing spray/towels, a jack and jack stands if you plan to change wheels/tires or get underneath the car. What about an air tank/pump? While potentially handy, this is often more cumbersome than it is worth. Set the tires about two psi higher than recommended, and use the tire gauge to let a little out if needed late in the day. The less you think about your tires, and the more you concentrate on driving, the faster you’ll be. Set them, and forget them.
3. (Pre-Race) Driver Prep - Race day should be a fun, adrenaline-filled event. It will also be a long day, so make the best effort to be well rested by going to bed early the night before. Lay out clothes that you plan to wear, and set a couple of alarms to avoid over sleeping. Hitting the Gran Turismo, or watching a few Nurburgring record runs can be a good way to get excited, just don’t let it keep you up into the wee hours.
4. (Race-Day) Final Car Prep – For safety, vehicles will be given a quick but thorough inspection by an event official to ensure they are race worthy. Your car should already be 95% of the way there, but a few last minute actions will finish the job. Official Autocross Checklist.
First, empty out everything that isn’t bolted down: the floor mats, spare tire, jack and tool set, cargo mats, garage door openers, CD cases (does anybody still have those?), etc. It’s all dead weight that will slow things down, or could get unexpectedly thrown from the car during a run. Some of this stuff can be left at home to save time (or a water damage from an unexpected shower), so evaluate your options/garage space as part of step one above.
Next, attach the race numbers and car class that you’ll be competing with. Paper ones with painter’s tape are crude, and can be ripped off by the wind later. After you have your number assignment, investing in a set of magnetic or vinyl decals will make the whole process much smoother, and should last at least a full season. Finally, give the windshield a quick clean, torque down those lug nuts, and head over to the official for the car to pass inspection with flying colors.
5. Go kick some ass!
I hope this article helps and inspires all of you to take a risk and get on the track. Nuff said!
The next day was one of the most exhilarating days of my driving life. If you don't know what it's like to slam your gas pedal to the floor AND NOT THINK "Oh God, I hope there are no cops around" then you are missing out my friend. Really you ask? Europeans put up with governments taking 70% of their income as long as they can drive on the Autobahn. Yes really (kidding, slightly).
My previous experience on a track was with a manual Mustang, and while they are both very different driving cars, I hands down had more fun with the FX. As mentioned, being built on a 350/70Z frame gives these "bionic cheetahs" more than enough tools to make posh
sport-cars nervous.With that being said, I spent some time on this forum and others getting prepared for the Spokane Speedway Track Day ($85 for 6 hours. I posted a short clip of the racing below). The tips/tricks were invaluable and my hope is the many who are on the fence about taking your FX on the track, first: DO IT. And second: take a week or so to follow the proper steps to make sure your baby can make the transition from daily driver (most of us) to race car - and back again.
While old news to some of you (a big shout out to GTO-Dave for adding @ least 2 hours of sleep to my weekend
), I contribute the following based on hours of research (some info taken and applied from linked articles) and my personal experience. It is a short list, and in my opinion, bare-bones/budget (no superchargers, TT). Not all are essential but many are a good idea. This is an open conversation so please let me know what you think.Later, I'll put together a list of upgrades that I plan on doing based on this weekend's performance.
Taking your FX to the Race Track - FOR DUMMIES
(No particular order)
Performance Parts (remember to tune or reset ECU after installs):
- Aftermarket Intake - While the debate rages about actual HP gains, the consensus is the stock FX intake is not meant for performance. Not only will your engine breathe better on the track, HP gains tend to be in the higher RPM range; exactly where you should be on a road course/autocross. Stillen & JWT Pop Charger (which I have) seem to be the most popular.
- Z-Tube - ^The above description applies, but in addition, the lack of resonator enables you to hear your engine and time your shifts better. Nothing is deadlier to you and your pocketbook than looking down @ your RPM gauge when you should be looking at the upcoming hairpin turn.
- Exhaust - Any increased airflow to the engine requires a more effective purging system.
- Plenum Spacer/MREV2 - Airflow/HP and whatnot. BOLT-ONS COMPLETE.
(Note; if you don't trust yourself/have a trusted mechanic, Les Schwab does Free Brake Inspections)
- Slotted Rotors - I personally have slotted AND drilled rotors. I sold myself on the "disperses rain better" aspect of drilled rotors (Seattle...) but my next ones will be slotted only for the extended rotor life. StopTech, HAWK, EBC, and Brembo are the most popular. Tirerack has a great overview of the pro-cons of each brand/style. But keep your pretty little hand off "buy," and immediately message a Vendor on this forum to purchase. Help a brother out!
- Performance Brake Pads - I noticed some live and die by the OEM pads: Akebono. Do your research but make sure they work when you need them to.
- Steel Brake Lines - Improved braking feel and response. Have you ever rented a car and thought "Wow, these new cars have really sensitive brakes." It's time to change your brake lines.
- Calipers - Les Schwab recommended every time I change my rotors I should change my Calipers. Google says they should be changed "after 75,000 miles, or seven to 10 years of service." I trust Google.
- Brake Fluid - Brake fluid is possibly the single most neglected component of the automobile. FX's take DOT 3, 4, and 5.1. Read the Pro/Cons above.
- BBK (Big Brake Kits) - Not in the budget department ($2,000 - 4,000) but if you plan on racing more and more these will be a smart investment.
- Tires - I personally run Pirelli Scorpion Verde All-Season Plus (Seattle again...). While IMHO excellent, they are by no means the only option. Hankook and Yokohama are popular on FX's as well. This choice will take research (an example of a good review) and personal preference/track only/weather will probably be the deciding factor. Just realize this might be the most important purchase in terms of how your car drives both on and off the track. Aka, Don't Be Cheap.
- Wheels/Rims - Supposedly, for every 100 pounds you remove, your car will run a tenth quicker in the quarter-mile. Many think that more important than reducing overall weight in racing is the benefit from reducing rotating weight (like wheels and tires). Swapping to a set of lighter-weight wheels and tires not only improves acceleration but reduces stopping distances.
- Suspension: Lowering - From what I've gathered, the lower center of gravity from lowering our FX's makes a huge difference in handling. Yet, Shadow191 made an interesting post (#596) that makes me question this. I personally have it at stock height but would love to hear from Shadow or someone who knows more about this.
- Suspension: Springs - If you have a Sport Model (me) and depending on the year, you might have larger/stiffer springs (and wheels). This creates a more grounded feel and essential for track use. H&R and Eibach are popular aftermarket springs and should be considered. Great comparison shot between stock and aftermarket thickness.
- Braces - While the complete set might be expensive, the advantages of keeping the loose FX body parts wrapped in a saucy steel girdle will be prevalent during the tightest turns.
LEARN TO LEFT FOOT BRAKE!!!!!! - Seriously. In most racing schools this is mandatory (even for manual drivers). It is a challenge to reverse years of right foot interference, lots of hard stops, but once you get the hang of it there's no going back. Read this if you don't believe me.
Preparation:
(The following are snippets taken from this article. Important/helpful stuff.)
1. (Pre-Race) Car Prep - Take it to your local mechanic at the beginning of the season (typically just before spring) for a full tune up and inspection. OIL CHANGE. All fluids need to be topped off or replaced, seat belts functional, and the brake lines need to have good pressure (a few pumps before starting the car should make the pedal firm). Oh, and as the folklore goes, half a tank means half a second saved – fuel up only as much as you’ll need for the day of the race.
2. (Pre-Race) Racing Gear - Your helmet (2000 or newer rating, check SCCA rulebook for detail), driving gloves, a separate pair of driving shoes, and a GoPro or other action cam. Finally, anything to help with car setup, such as: a tire pressure gauge, basic tool set, torque wrench, detailing spray/towels, a jack and jack stands if you plan to change wheels/tires or get underneath the car. What about an air tank/pump? While potentially handy, this is often more cumbersome than it is worth. Set the tires about two psi higher than recommended, and use the tire gauge to let a little out if needed late in the day. The less you think about your tires, and the more you concentrate on driving, the faster you’ll be. Set them, and forget them.
3. (Pre-Race) Driver Prep - Race day should be a fun, adrenaline-filled event. It will also be a long day, so make the best effort to be well rested by going to bed early the night before. Lay out clothes that you plan to wear, and set a couple of alarms to avoid over sleeping. Hitting the Gran Turismo, or watching a few Nurburgring record runs can be a good way to get excited, just don’t let it keep you up into the wee hours.
4. (Race-Day) Final Car Prep – For safety, vehicles will be given a quick but thorough inspection by an event official to ensure they are race worthy. Your car should already be 95% of the way there, but a few last minute actions will finish the job. Official Autocross Checklist.
First, empty out everything that isn’t bolted down: the floor mats, spare tire, jack and tool set, cargo mats, garage door openers, CD cases (does anybody still have those?), etc. It’s all dead weight that will slow things down, or could get unexpectedly thrown from the car during a run. Some of this stuff can be left at home to save time (or a water damage from an unexpected shower), so evaluate your options/garage space as part of step one above.
Next, attach the race numbers and car class that you’ll be competing with. Paper ones with painter’s tape are crude, and can be ripped off by the wind later. After you have your number assignment, investing in a set of magnetic or vinyl decals will make the whole process much smoother, and should last at least a full season. Finally, give the windshield a quick clean, torque down those lug nuts, and head over to the official for the car to pass inspection with flying colors.
5. Go kick some ass!
I hope this article helps and inspires all of you to take a risk and get on the track. Nuff said!
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