gto's FX :: 2005 FX 35 RWD SPRT
- Thread starter gto
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Can't wait to hear your thoughts once it's all together and you get it out on the track. Might have to check these tires out once mine wear out if pricing is good. I love the look with the big tread grooves and solid blocks.
I'm a sucker for looks though, that's what landed me with the RH06. I've though about R888's for the Z as well. :bulgy-eyes:
I'm a sucker for looks though, that's what landed me with the RH06. I've though about R888's for the Z as well. :bulgy-eyes:
Priced very competetively. Almost a steal. Other choice for me was the pricier Latitude Sport 3. Michelin's PSS for Sport-Utes. Since neither are supposed to last very long, I rolled the dice on these & so far no complaints. But I can only compare to All-Seasons on this car. I've always felt the FX has been held back by the rubber. Now I'm proven
I need to roll my rear too. Roll party? Multiple Roll discount? I've heard of a reputable place around Redondo- just waiting until I actually get the itch. Wheels & rubber come first - as the last page of posts on your thread has illustrated. Excited to breathe new life into your build, Dave - it's been too long!!!
:good:
Took a short spirited drive tonight. This thing is way quicker now. For a baseline, I set the dampening right in the middle at 15 all around. I still have a two finger gap on all corners. Not even sure if it will help the handle to go lower. I need to see how much travel I have, but I'm guessing maximum at this drop.. Do you guys know what the sweet spot is for height? Looks being totally secondary.
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Now it's down to a finger and a half. Maybe there was some settling ???
I can see how everyone itches to get lower, but it probably will handle better all raised up like this.
My friends stock GTR is not slammed, & that's likely the reason. Maybe resident suspension guru Shadow can chime in.
I can see how everyone itches to get lower, but it probably will handle better all raised up like this.
My friends stock GTR is not slammed, & that's likely the reason. Maybe resident suspension guru Shadow can chime in.
I have a 2 finger gap. The car handles very good. I'm going to lower it (no gap) more pretty soon. Curious how it will handle after.
I'm more of a tinkerer, but thanks for the vote of confidence. For handling, you're probably at optimal height. I don't know if going lower is going to help anything. It'll look better, but I seriously doubt it would corner better. People always say that lowering helps because of the lower center of gravity. But what they never take into account is that when you lower, you're now sitting in the middle of your suspension travel while static. So whatever suspension arc Nissan designed is now somewhat compromised because you're starting at some point in the middle of it before you ever hit that bump. And when you re-align the car at the lower ride height, you've again changed the design some. Factory alignment specs are designed for factory height. The reason they go out of spec when you lower is that the suspension parts are in their travel. So when you align to factory specs at a lower height, you've slightly changed how the suspension works.
Don't know if it matters much at all, but everyone who has lowered their car has changed the design of their suspension travel. I think the only way to really know what a good ride height is would be to test it. I believe you go to the track? Other than that, we're all just guessing. Sometimes changes don't do what you think they should. A good friend had a drag Supra back in the day, it ran 8's. He ran in a pro class, so they were all looking for the last couple of hundredths of a second. He spent a lot of time messing with the suspension with different alignment settings and heights. The final alignment and height settings were way different than he anticipated, but for his setup, it was the fastest launch.
My car is set up purely for looks. It handles well, but my ride height, camber, and offset were chosen because it looks good, not because it corners fastest. I don't think you'll bottom out by going lower. I've only bottomed out a couple of times on BC's, they've designed the shock travel with the spring height in mind. Just make sure that when you lower on your rears, you adjust the shock body accordingly. I didn't do that when I first installed, and that was one of the times I bottomed out. Right now, my car is so low that I don't think I can bottom out the suspension. I bottom out when my catalytic converter hits the ground
Don't know if it matters much at all, but everyone who has lowered their car has changed the design of their suspension travel. I think the only way to really know what a good ride height is would be to test it. I believe you go to the track? Other than that, we're all just guessing. Sometimes changes don't do what you think they should. A good friend had a drag Supra back in the day, it ran 8's. He ran in a pro class, so they were all looking for the last couple of hundredths of a second. He spent a lot of time messing with the suspension with different alignment settings and heights. The final alignment and height settings were way different than he anticipated, but for his setup, it was the fastest launch.
My car is set up purely for looks. It handles well, but my ride height, camber, and offset were chosen because it looks good, not because it corners fastest. I don't think you'll bottom out by going lower. I've only bottomed out a couple of times on BC's, they've designed the shock travel with the spring height in mind. Just make sure that when you lower on your rears, you adjust the shock body accordingly. I didn't do that when I first installed, and that was one of the times I bottomed out. Right now, my car is so low that I don't think I can bottom out the suspension. I bottom out when my catalytic converter hits the ground
Awesome, Your explanations are always so clear.
So Shadow, If running 10/12 springs & just under 2 finger gap, where would you set frnt/rear dampening as a starting point?
Right now I have them right in the middle. Havnt moved them at all yet
---------- Post added at 11:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:15 AM ----------
If anyone else wants to chime in on that, feel free to
So Shadow, If running 10/12 springs & just under 2 finger gap, where would you set frnt/rear dampening as a starting point?
Right now I have them right in the middle. Havnt moved them at all yet
---------- Post added at 11:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:15 AM ----------
If anyone else wants to chime in on that, feel free to
I think starting in the middle is fine, it doesn't matter too much where you start. I'd just keep driving it and make notes of how your suspension is reacting to bumps/dips/turns and so on. If it feels like it's blowing through the travel, turn the damping up. But if it's too rough or jittery over bad pavement, turn it down a little. I personally tend to run more firm damping, but when I give people rides, they always complain about how stiff the suspension is. So a lot of it's personal preference. And I run 2 clicks more firm in the front that the rear. For me that feels better, when I ran the same, it always felt like the front was underdamped. Probably because of the engine weight.
When you do adjust the knob, I'd go 2 clicks at a time. I can't tell the difference between each individual click and if you google BC, that's a common complain. It's almost as if they added more clicks just to say they have 32 way adjustability. You can do it one click at a time, but it will just take more time.
When you do adjust the knob, I'd go 2 clicks at a time. I can't tell the difference between each individual click and if you google BC, that's a common complain. It's almost as if they added more clicks just to say they have 32 way adjustability. You can do it one click at a time, but it will just take more time.