Put some bump in that trunk (Sub install with custom box)

Hopefully the rear door speaker just received full range audio signal and your built in crossover in the amp can clean it up from there. Assuming you buy an amp with a built in crossover. Ahh I still remember the days of stand alone crossovers bigger than some amps today. :)

Anyone else remember these? eqx.JPG
 

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anyone else want to chime in on tapping into the rear door speaker vice the stock bose sub signal? does anyone know the frequency range going to both speakers? also, how exactly did you tap in? was kinda confused by your post.

...

Hopefully the rear door speaker just received full range audio signal and your built in crossover in the amp can clean it up from there. Assuming you buy an amp with a built in crossover. ...

The benefit of tapping the sub signal vs the door signal has been proven. The reason is that the door signals have a high-pass filter applied at the amplifier and the sub signal's (low-pass) filter is applied inside the subwoofer enclosure.

SfmDRuT2
 
The benefit of tapping the sub signal vs the door signal has been proven. The reason is that the door signals have a high-pass filter applied at the amplifier and the sub signal's (low-pass) filter is applied inside the subwoofer enclosure.

SfmDRuT2
:plus1: :laugh:
 
I'm sorry I haven't had time, a lot going on. I did manage to change to a 12 inch and much happier, I'm living in Lexington, KY now and if there is someone close I need a stock 20 inch spare to make a mold as i have an 18. The prices I was getting from mold manufacturers was ridiculous! I'm going to have to do it myself which will be very ti,e consuming.
 
I think there is no 20" spare tire/wheel out there, only some different spare for a 2nd gen FX50, not sure what size...


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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression that if you had stock 18's your spare was and 18. If you had stock 20's your spare was a 20 as well. I had stock 18's and an 18" spare which allowed me enough room left in the well to mount my capacitor. There is more than enough room for a stock 20 in the spare wheel well, I can't imagine Infiniti putting a much smaller spare than the stock tire size. If it were a donut yet, but not a full-size spare, someone please confirm.
 
On first Gen, I think everyone has the same size spare. Doesn't matter the rim size, but the diameter of the wheel being the same as the stock tire. I thought no matter if it was 18 or 20, the tire diameter was almost exactly the same.

Tapatalkin'
 
I don't know, if someone can positively confirm that the people with the stock 20's have the same size rim then my sub will work and a mold will work. I think though that the stock 20's still have a 20 inch spare and the last time I checked 20inched is 2 inches larger than 18? That being said, I guess the Id of the 18 and the 20 could very well be the same, I would really like some of you guys that have the stock 20's take a measurement of the I'd of your rim to be certain.
 
That doesn't make any sense for a manufacture to make 2 different spares for one model, if the overall diameter is the same, and 1st gen didn't have Akebono brakes as an option(that was the reason to produce 2 different spares for a 2nd gen, to clear the brake upgrade)


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FX#1: 2004 awd w/ sport pkg and 20" wheels.
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8e8e5yvy.jpg
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FX#2: 2005 rwd w/ sport + nav pkg and 20" wheels.
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ane9y9eg.jpg

SfmDRuT2
 

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Thanks Tchuck for confirming, it looks like the only spare is the 18 which it better as there is only a need for one mold rather than two. I have done allot of research in mold making and it is a much larger task than making the box. The biggest challenge is making the mold to get a perfect fit and to get it to release the cast without sticking to the mold. And of course releasing without damaging the mold for reuse. I haven't given up on this as I can see there is a huge market for it and will be working on it soon as things are starting to settle down a little. I will keep all posted with my progress. If any of you have any suggestions in mold making and the best type and place to purchase the needed materials would be greatly appreciated. and of course a second pair of hands would help if anyone is located near Lexington, KY and want to get together on a weekend and get this done once and for all! Once the mold and a jig for the tops are made, it should be short work to turn these out.
 
From what I have read I think this will be the best way but will entail a lot of upfront work but will allow for many higher quality castings.


http://www.fiberglasswarehouse.com/fiberglass_mold_making.php

That's probably overkill for your use (just the prep part. You could get away with wax+polish and a PVA releasing agent) but it is a good process. Lots of people who have releasing problems wax and polish but omit the releasing agent.

SfmDRuT2
 
I agree, on the other hand I would rather take more time on the mold to make short work in producing uniform boxes. I plan on making more than just a few, skimping on the mold will only cost more time and headaches in producing a great product. There is a reason the quotes from the mold manufactures were anywhere between 3-6k dollars. If I were only going to make a few I wouldn't even make a mold but use my spare like I did the first time. I'm not trying to be rude in anyway, but when I make them and offer them to fellow members or whoever. I want them to be 100% satisfied with the product they receive, rather than I coulda done that myself.
 
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