NEW MODS! (This is getting addicting)
- Thread starter FX_Allen
- Start date
yes, that's true, but a cold cut will do no damage, the end result will be a higher spring rate. if you measure the amount of coils as a straight length, then the amount cut off will directly corilate to the increase in spring rate, for example if the cut reduces the overall fee floating coil length by 8%, then the spring rate will be 8% higher.
ask any nissan service advisor if you should install a cai, the answer will be no you shouldn't do that
same here with an h&r rep, I wouldn't expect him to say yeah, go ahead & butcher our well engineered product:4tongue:...
cutting springs is one of the oldest mods in the book, with a cold cut there is absolutely nothing to fear at all, as long as you re-orient the spring seat up top to match the 180deg rotation of the new seat position...
ask any nissan service advisor if you should install a cai, the answer will be no you shouldn't do that
same here with an h&r rep, I wouldn't expect him to say yeah, go ahead & butcher our well engineered product:4tongue:...cutting springs is one of the oldest mods in the book, with a cold cut there is absolutely nothing to fear at all, as long as you re-orient the spring seat up top to match the 180deg rotation of the new seat position...
yes, that's true, but a cold cut will do no damage, the end result will be a higher spring rate. if you measure the amount of coils as a straight length, then the amount cut off will directly corilate to the increase in spring rate, for example if the cut reduces the overall fee floating coil length by 8%, then the spring rate will be 8% higher.
ask any nissan service advisor if you should install a cai, the answer will be no you shouldn't do that
cutting springs is one of the oldest mods in the book, with a cold cut there is absolutely nothing to fear at all, as long as you re-orient the spring seat up top to match the 180deg rotation of the new seat position...
Hey Allen, dont you know better than to disagree with Turbocad6?? .. j/k ..
P
Psiclne
Guest
yes, that's true, but a cold cut will do no damage, the end result will be a higher spring rate. if you measure the amount of coils as a straight length, then the amount cut off will directly corilate to the increase in spring rate, for example if the cut reduces the overall fee floating coil length by 8%, then the spring rate will be 8% higher.
ask any nissan service advisor if you should install a cai, the answer will be no you shouldn't do that
cutting springs is one of the oldest mods in the book, with a cold cut there is absolutely nothing to fear at all, as long as you re-orient the spring seat up top to match the 180deg rotation of the new seat position...
+1 you shouldn't heat cut - cold cut is the best way.
yea... i picked up some rim sponsors... ^_^ Seibon's new sister company... details later...
Yea i forgot... thx turbo/dave/brown/jc/keemo/psciline for the nice comments...
i juss might do the cold cut... can i cut a full coil front and half back? i wanted a more aggressive and SLAMMED look...
Yea, I'll possibly sell my stock cover... i gotta find a good CF cover first tho... UTR makes a full one or half (350z)... ill post in FS if i do sell it... Oh no my cover isnt painted, just a bit of good ol' elbow grease and tire shine LOL ^_^... Im thinking of painting it flat black or black chrome... update more later...
Yea i forgot... thx turbo/dave/brown/jc/keemo/psciline for the nice comments...
i juss might do the cold cut... can i cut a full coil front and half back? i wanted a more aggressive and SLAMMED look...
Yea, I'll possibly sell my stock cover... i gotta find a good CF cover first tho... UTR makes a full one or half (350z)... ill post in FS if i do sell it... Oh no my cover isnt painted, just a bit of good ol' elbow grease and tire shine LOL ^_^... Im thinking of painting it flat black or black chrome... update more later...
- Car
- 09 FX50
he asked if it was painted cuz usually the inside part is silver, where it has the symbol and engine size. did yurs come all black?
you can't cut the rears cause there formed on both ends, (although the bottom is slightly progressive, I think I might try 1/4 coil) the front are a continuous coil, so they can be cut no problem. the rears there is an upper spring mount that is very very thick, you can cut a good 1/2" or so out of that, I used a hack saw. if you want no chance of problems don't cut the rear springs
the top of the front spring is formed to come to a closed loop at the top, & then is machined a bit... it fits into a pocket that fits into the upper strut mount. the spring coils down evenly & then it just ends at some point with no forming of the end, just the continuous coil to a cut off. this is the end you cut. eyeball dissect the circle of the spring make a mark 180deg from the existing end. cold cut can be a cut of wheel, a dremmel if you got an hour or 2 to kill, or a hack saw even, no torch then, use the piece you cut off as a guide as to where you cut th other one. the exact place you cut isn't super citical to the mm, but you should make sure that both sides are the same as much as practical.
if the end of the coil was at lets say 6 o'clock relative to the top pocket of the spring, then after this cut the end will now be at 12 o'clock. the lower spring seat can't be rotated cause it s part of the strut & the spring can't seat on the strut at the 12 o'clock position, so the spring needs to be rotated 180deg. then the top seat won't line up, but it can be rotated to match, done.
the top is on a bearing, you can just rotate the whole assy to get the top to just line up after the cut, but then the spring will not sit straight & it has a high chance of popping out of place & causing all kinds of grief. you have to keep the upper strut mount in the same orientation to the strut as it was & just rotate the inner rubber gasket seat thingy... this is the one thing you don't want a moron mechanic to screw up, it's possible to force the spring in with the top not lined up properly if he doesn't realize to rotate the inner seat & they'll be noisy & give problems, but any decent mechanic should be able to figure it out really
stock the fx is pretty high in the nose with no rake at all, after these cuts the front comes down 1/2 in more than the rear, it has a nice rake & nice stance to it & looks more aggressive. the difference in rake is what I noticed the most, at first it felt a little weird I had to re adjust my seat, but it handles & rides great...
about the only negative I could say about it is, the stock H&R spring rate is pretty even front & rear,& after the cuts it is slightly noticeable that the front is a little stiffer than the rear, it does not feel bad, but I think it might feel a bit better if the rear was a little more stiff too, again, I was sensitive to that initially but have settled into being very comfortable & happy with the ride overall. I don't think the rear is too high or should come down more, but it would be really perfect if the rear was a little stiffer to match the slightly stiffer front.
the top of the front spring is formed to come to a closed loop at the top, & then is machined a bit... it fits into a pocket that fits into the upper strut mount. the spring coils down evenly & then it just ends at some point with no forming of the end, just the continuous coil to a cut off. this is the end you cut. eyeball dissect the circle of the spring make a mark 180deg from the existing end. cold cut can be a cut of wheel, a dremmel if you got an hour or 2 to kill
, or a hack saw even, no torch then, use the piece you cut off as a guide as to where you cut th other one. the exact place you cut isn't super citical to the mm, but you should make sure that both sides are the same as much as practical.if the end of the coil was at lets say 6 o'clock relative to the top pocket of the spring, then after this cut the end will now be at 12 o'clock. the lower spring seat can't be rotated cause it s part of the strut & the spring can't seat on the strut at the 12 o'clock position, so the spring needs to be rotated 180deg. then the top seat won't line up, but it can be rotated to match, done.
the top is on a bearing, you can just rotate the whole assy to get the top to just line up after the cut, but then the spring will not sit straight & it has a high chance of popping out of place & causing all kinds of grief. you have to keep the upper strut mount in the same orientation to the strut as it was & just rotate the inner rubber gasket seat thingy... this is the one thing you don't want a moron mechanic to screw up, it's possible to force the spring in with the top not lined up properly if he doesn't realize to rotate the inner seat & they'll be noisy & give problems, but any decent mechanic should be able to figure it out really
stock the fx is pretty high in the nose with no rake at all, after these cuts the front comes down 1/2 in more than the rear, it has a nice rake & nice stance to it & looks more aggressive. the difference in rake is what I noticed the most, at first it felt a little weird I had to re adjust my seat, but it handles & rides great...
about the only negative I could say about it is, the stock H&R spring rate is pretty even front & rear,& after the cuts it is slightly noticeable that the front is a little stiffer than the rear, it does not feel bad, but I think it might feel a bit better if the rear was a little more stiff too, again, I was sensitive to that initially but have settled into being very comfortable & happy with the ride overall. I don't think the rear is too high or should come down more, but it would be really perfect if the rear was a little stiffer to match the slightly stiffer front.
- Car
- 09 FX50
relly?
ddi they used to come like that of soemthing? haha
loosk way better than black/silver IMO
Nice. Was it made like that or previously painted?
If they have an option like that, that's OEM I'd buy one.
- Car
- 09 FX50
already asked that
P
Psiclne
Guest
I wanna hear about the sponsors.....details :top: