Got my UniChip yesterday and installed it. Turned on the aggressive map that was included.
I drove it around after install, but noticed the temperature climb and forgot that I had disconnected the battery to install the UniChip, which keeps all the settings and powers my PAC7250 fan module from my fan swap. It never overheated and the temperature needle was 3/4 up to "H," so between middle and "H." Pulled over to reset the module with correct fan settings and all is good for the 15 minutes I test it out. Temps return to normal.
While parked, I change the UniChip map to default. On my way home, I hear a clanky noise via echoing when revving against a wall. It doesn't sound severe, so I figure it's something minor in the suspension or an exhaust leak that I can fix this weekend. I park it and let it chill out for a few hours.
On a later drive, it sputters and basically doesn't want to accelerate when given gas. I try to start it up again and it just cranks and cranks. I wait for a few minutes and I try again. It turns over. Still exhibits the metallic symptoms heard in the video below. So, I call AAA to tow me back to my place because the last time I attempted to drive after engine sputtering, my engine blew and I was out $6k. I'm thinking that the aggressive UniChip map might have burned my spark plugs due to the advancement in timing...last time those were changed was in May 2011.
In the last three weeks, I've performed some modifications to make the engine last and be more efficient: Oil/air separator, throttle body coolant bypass, added Seafoam after 100 miles on new oil, Seafoam on a full tank of gas, Seafoam via brake booster vacuum line, and as of yesterday, the UniChip. Checked the oil and coolant levels; fluids are good. This was an East coast car for a decade and had 93 octane for that time. Have been using 91 since this February. Not sure if that has any bearing in my current situation, but just more info.
I ordered new coil packs and spark plugs last night, but I'm not even sure that's the problem. The RPMs are steady for the most part as you can see in the video. Has anyone else experienced or solved this noise/problem?
Sorry for the wordiness, but I put down as much as possible to narrow things down.
[video=youtube_share;caNA87jkBr0]http://youtu.be/caNA87jkBr0[/video]
EDIT: There is no CEL/SES either, which is crazy to me...
I drove it around after install, but noticed the temperature climb and forgot that I had disconnected the battery to install the UniChip, which keeps all the settings and powers my PAC7250 fan module from my fan swap. It never overheated and the temperature needle was 3/4 up to "H," so between middle and "H." Pulled over to reset the module with correct fan settings and all is good for the 15 minutes I test it out. Temps return to normal.
While parked, I change the UniChip map to default. On my way home, I hear a clanky noise via echoing when revving against a wall. It doesn't sound severe, so I figure it's something minor in the suspension or an exhaust leak that I can fix this weekend. I park it and let it chill out for a few hours.
On a later drive, it sputters and basically doesn't want to accelerate when given gas. I try to start it up again and it just cranks and cranks. I wait for a few minutes and I try again. It turns over. Still exhibits the metallic symptoms heard in the video below. So, I call AAA to tow me back to my place because the last time I attempted to drive after engine sputtering, my engine blew and I was out $6k. I'm thinking that the aggressive UniChip map might have burned my spark plugs due to the advancement in timing...last time those were changed was in May 2011.
In the last three weeks, I've performed some modifications to make the engine last and be more efficient: Oil/air separator, throttle body coolant bypass, added Seafoam after 100 miles on new oil, Seafoam on a full tank of gas, Seafoam via brake booster vacuum line, and as of yesterday, the UniChip. Checked the oil and coolant levels; fluids are good. This was an East coast car for a decade and had 93 octane for that time. Have been using 91 since this February. Not sure if that has any bearing in my current situation, but just more info.
I ordered new coil packs and spark plugs last night, but I'm not even sure that's the problem. The RPMs are steady for the most part as you can see in the video. Has anyone else experienced or solved this noise/problem?
Sorry for the wordiness, but I put down as much as possible to narrow things down.
[video=youtube_share;caNA87jkBr0]http://youtu.be/caNA87jkBr0[/video]
EDIT: There is no CEL/SES either, which is crazy to me...
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