Knock, knock...what's there?

bmakkanic

Member
Location
AZ
Got my UniChip yesterday and installed it. Turned on the aggressive map that was included.

I drove it around after install, but noticed the temperature climb and forgot that I had disconnected the battery to install the UniChip, which keeps all the settings and powers my PAC7250 fan module from my fan swap. It never overheated and the temperature needle was 3/4 up to "H," so between middle and "H." Pulled over to reset the module with correct fan settings and all is good for the 15 minutes I test it out. Temps return to normal.

While parked, I change the UniChip map to default. On my way home, I hear a clanky noise via echoing when revving against a wall. It doesn't sound severe, so I figure it's something minor in the suspension or an exhaust leak that I can fix this weekend. I park it and let it chill out for a few hours.

On a later drive, it sputters and basically doesn't want to accelerate when given gas. I try to start it up again and it just cranks and cranks. I wait for a few minutes and I try again. It turns over. Still exhibits the metallic symptoms heard in the video below. So, I call AAA to tow me back to my place because the last time I attempted to drive after engine sputtering, my engine blew and I was out $6k. I'm thinking that the aggressive UniChip map might have burned my spark plugs due to the advancement in timing...last time those were changed was in May 2011.

In the last three weeks, I've performed some modifications to make the engine last and be more efficient: Oil/air separator, throttle body coolant bypass, added Seafoam after 100 miles on new oil, Seafoam on a full tank of gas, Seafoam via brake booster vacuum line, and as of yesterday, the UniChip. Checked the oil and coolant levels; fluids are good. This was an East coast car for a decade and had 93 octane for that time. Have been using 91 since this February. Not sure if that has any bearing in my current situation, but just more info.

I ordered new coil packs and spark plugs last night, but I'm not even sure that's the problem. The RPMs are steady for the most part as you can see in the video. Has anyone else experienced or solved this noise/problem?

Sorry for the wordiness, but I put down as much as possible to narrow things down.

[video=youtube_share;caNA87jkBr0]http://youtu.be/caNA87jkBr0[/video]

EDIT: There is no CEL/SES either, which is crazy to me...
 
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That doesn't sound good. Almost sounds like a valve issue. If it ran too lean it may have damaged one of the valves.
 
Wow, that sounded seriously bad. Definitely engine issue. Now what map you ran with? Was it from Unichip and for a V8.
 
As stated above, don't run. Find noise and pull that head. Make car is somewhere it can sit for awhile if you find bad news.
 
Sorry to ask this but are the bypass and separator hooked up correctly? You could work backwards and undue all you have done recently to chase any obvious issues, but I've never heard of a bypass or separator creating the issue you seem to have. Could be cleaning the engine, running lower octane and the tune causing a valve to bang into something. I keep listening to the video and it is interesting that it is holding a stable idle if its toast.
 
Just got back onto this due to me trying to figure this out.

The car is parked in my small, one-car garage.

I disconnected both negative and positive terminals on the battery and uninstalled the UniChip, then let it sit overnight and reconnected the battery to turn it over and listen to it again. Sounds the same. RPM's still steady. Turned it off pronto.

I ordered the UniChip new; specific for my application: 03 V8 FX45 and it came with the harness. I never once switched maps while under load.

The bypass is connected properly, so coolant is going through the system just fine. The separator has some oil in it and is routed correctly. I can undo those this weekend.

The car hasn't been under any kind of moving load since making the noise you hear in the video.

A few LKQ distribution sites have good condition used M45 engines. Wondering if I could use those parts to replace the bad ones. I know the M/Q has a throttle cable with their throttle bodies, but that won't be used.

Thanks everyone!
 
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I highly doubt the Unichip has anything to do with it. When in "aggressive" mode dose felt like you got extra 50 horses in the engine? Most likely not! What I'm trying to say was. In my opinion, adjusting the fuel/air ratio will give you extra pull and it not strong enough to break internal parts. The problem is most likely stems from your recent rebuild.
 
Damn good luck

Mine sounded nothing remotely close and i traded mine in

I envy your skills, patience and love for the FX!!!!
 
It has been three years since your rebuild and the dealer did it correct? Prbobably way out of warranty but I'd call and check to see what they say. If they want to check it out you will want to strip rverything off you have modified on the engine.
 
Based on the age of the original post, and seriousness of the problem, you have probably figured it out by now, but I would have contacted Unichip asap. I would imagine they would be highly motivated to tell you exactly why it wasn't their chip, subsequently helping you narrow the issue, so as to protect their reputation. Not many people would buy it with stories like these floating around. But then again, maybe I live in an idealistic world.
 
Based on the age of the original post, and seriousness of the problem, you have probably figured it out by now, but I would have contacted Unichip asap. I would imagine they would be highly motivated to tell you exactly why it wasn't their chip, subsequently helping you narrow the issue, so as to protect their reputation. Not many people would buy it with stories like these floating around. But then again, maybe I live in an idealistic world.

I ended up sourcing another engine and purchased a lifetime warranty for breakage. Cost another $1200 for it, but well worth it, considering the rarity of this VK45DE variant.

Operates just fine now and I do not blame it on the Unichip, which I'm still using.

Actually saves me on highway gas. Still love the car, and will probably hang on to it as long as I can.

-Brian
 
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