Jumbo's custom turbo build

1) you have the optional Haltech O2 sensor kit. Does that don't come with a gauge or can you add it to any aftermarket gauge. I couldn't find that intel.

2) What A/R does your turbine have...?? You have .63 / .82 or 1.06................

3) How is your turbo gap. I was warned that the GT35R would be quite big then maybe to big and won't give anything in low rpm's......as due to it's size it will come late but when it comes it comes like a madman which test our drivelines durability to the max.....how is you experience till now....??

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1) Haltech does not come with a gauge. The sensor is wired to the Haltech computer, so the computer sees the wideband, but you must add a gauge for display.

2) I went with an upgraded Tial Stainless Steel A/R at .82

3) I don't have the car back yet, but during the break-in drive on the new motor, I hit 3psi at 3000rpm. I seriously don't think lag will be a problem for a 3.5L 6-cyl engine. Twins at that size would be a different story. Stay tuned for a dyno sheet - that should give you real numbers to work with.



One week from today I should be able to post a dyno sheet showing the whp vs rpm.
 
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1) Haltech does not come with a gauge. The sensor is wired to the Haltech computer, so the computer sees the wideband, but you must add a gauge for display.

2) I went with an upgraded Tial Stainless Steel A/R at .82

3) I don't have the car back yet, but during the break-in drive on the new motor, I hit 3psi at 3000rpm. I seriously don't think lag will be a problem for a 3.5L 6-cyl engine. Twins at that size would be a different story. Stay tuned for a dyno sheet - that should give you real numbers to work with.



One week from today I should be able to post a dyno sheet showing the whp vs rpm.

Perfect......! Very eager to see what you'll get...:tup:

The Additional wideband gauge......would be a complete seperate kit incl. sensor...?? As the gauge probably can't be connected to the haltech..........
 
The Additional wideband gauge......would be a complete seperate kit incl. sensor...?? As the gauge probably can't be connected to the haltech..........

No additional sensor would be required because you can splice the signal coming from the haltech sensor. There may be limitations as to which gauges would work for that application - but that's something I will have to figure out before I decide which gauges to purchase.
 
No additional sensor would be required because you can splice the signal coming from the haltech sensor. There may be limitations as to which gauges would work for that application - but that's something I will have to figure out before I decide which gauges to purchase.

I was advised to go for 2 widebands......one for each cylinder bank/row. What will you do and from where are you messuring...??

Another thing.....do you have a engne oil coller as well...?? Can't seem to find it in your specs.
 
Yes, I have the B&M oil cooler. It is the exact same model that I purchased for my transmission cooler so I now I have twin oil coolers.

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I'm using a single wideband O2 sensor just after the merge collector, before the wastegate & turbo.

Here's a photo where you can see the sensor bung at the top left.

IMG_6450.jpg
 
Yes, I have the B&M oil cooler. It is the exact same model that I purchased for my transmission cooler so I now I have twin oil coolers.

Did the B&M come with a mount for our oil filter or did you have to buy one.....or did you connect it somewhere else in the system...??
 
Did the B&M come with a mount for our oil filter or did you have to buy one.....or did you connect it somewhere else in the system...??

Ray, the B&M comes with the cooler and two hoses and connects to custom welded fittings on the oil pan.

I removed the OEM oil filter coolant lines and fittings. My new filter setup is not a standard size, does not have a bypass and does not need the small OEM cooler since I'm adding the B&M.
 
So we have reached another stopping point in the build. I picked up the FX on the 6th and have driven daily without punishing her too much. I've done a few pulls... with caution.

The tuner was going through increasing boost levels when around the 430whp mark, coolant started spewing from the overflow reservoir vent. On the dyno in a 105 degree shop, the OEM temp gauge started to rise so we backed off the boost and held the power to 400whp. On checking the injectors, we found they were running at 85% duty cycle at full boost. Intake temperatures are 20 degrees over ambient. All in all it looked to me like we were riding the hairy edge of cooling failure. Granted this was on a dyno with a fan pointed at the radiator, but I want more of a safety margin than that. Since I have driven the car now for a little over a week, the temperature gauge has never risen much above the half-way mark, but twice I have ejected coolant. I can stop it from happening if I drive easily for the last 15 minutes or so of my drive. But if I do a hard pull within 10 minutes of shutting down the car, heat continues to rise for a few minutes after the car is off and coolant overflows. If I do a hard pull and shut down immediately, coolant will eject violently.

So the shop is recommending a larger core radiator paired with a lower temperature (Nismo) thermostat. I have followed up on a couple cousin forums and even the G and Z guys say the stock radiator is pretty inadequate after going forced induction. I also have my intercooler and two oil coolers in front of the radiator, making it less efficient. Instead of moving everything around and trying to make it work, a 36mm core Koyo R is now on order.

The tune will continue after the new parts are installed and we are going to maximize the injector duty cycles without getting too aggressive. Don't want to max them out and run lean in colder weather. I've decided to draw the line here (at whatever power level the injectors can give me). At some point in the future if I want more, a larger turbine housing, 800cc injectors and a new tune will be all I need for a nice bump. That probably won't happen unless I burn up this transmission and am forced to go for something that can handle upwards of 500whp.


Short list of items for the next shop visit:

Engine oil will be sent to a lab for analysis and we will most likely try a second interval on the Rotella T5. Goal for the analysis is to see how long I can run this oil between changes - could be as many as 10K miles depending on the analysis results.

The oil filter - removable cartridge style - has no bypass and a high flow capacity will be installed as well - a little fabrication is required to get it to mount properly. Right now I'm using a Nissan Titan OEM filter.

We're also going to re-work the oil catch can system - probably going to a two can setup.

Will be installing some fresh NKG copper spark plugs.

Installing the Nismo thermostat and Koyo Radiator - fabrication required for radiator hardpipe.

As soon as all of the ordered parts have arrived, the FX goes back down for one last wrench session and a solid few days with the tuner. When she comes back, I can FINALLY turn my attention to some nice wheels.
 
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I went a while on the oem radiator punishing my original and second set of turbos at the track. 12 second runs were done on the oem radiator in what is our desert area so hot days and hard pulls never had a coolant overflow issue.

Do you have a dyno with A/F? Have seen you post a few different ones here and there, the top end looks really choppy.
 
the fx also has a larger radiator stock than a g or z...

Width is approx the same, height is different. Oem FX +/- 17" and G/Z have +/- 15".

I thought Rookie was running an G radiator he said. But when thicker then OEM that would be fine as well i gues.
Otherwise we are bount to go for a custom build radiator :err:

Jumbo why did you go for the 36mm and not the 54mm core...?? Clearance issues.....??
Did you order them trough the adress i gave you....??

P.s: Why did you change you oilfilter to titan already,......and why change again. Is oem not good enough...??
 
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... I can stop it from happening if I drive easily for the last 15 minutes or so of my drive. But if I do a hard pull within 10 minutes of shutting down the car, heat continues to rise for a few minutes after the car is off and coolant overflows. If I do a hard pull and shut down immediately, coolant will eject violently.
...

Do you not have a turbo timer? Isn't that the perfect application?
 
TChuck - It might be worth looking into, but the purpose of the turbo timer is for cooling the oil going to the turbo so that you don't cook the oil and get coking inside the turbo oil paths.

Having the engine continue to run would definitely help with the coolant, but with no real airflow over the radiator I don't think it would work very well. It's something I'll have to look into a bit more - I admit I'm not as educated on turbo timers as I could be.

Width is approx the same, height is different. Oem FX +/- 17" and G/Z have +/- 15".

I thought Rookie was running an G radiator he said. But when thicker then OEM that would be fine as well i gues.
Otherwise we are bount to go for a custom build radiator :err:

Jumbo why did you go for the 36mm and not the 54mm core...?? Clearance issues.....??
Did you order them trough the adress i gave you....??

P.s: Why did you change you oilfilter to titan already,......and why change again. Is oem not good enough...??

Ray - The shop thinks the 36mm core will be fine for my power requirements. Yes, it is two inches shorter than our FX radiator, so I will leave my gap at the bottom where my intercooler is. The shop ordered the Koyo from their own distributors - said they could match the sale price on the website you sent to me.

The Titan oil filter was just for break-in. I had already purchased the oil filter setup here:

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/...ion&key=25-482

Point of this filter setup is NO bypass and high flow capacity. The OEM filter is no where near close to handling the job. Even the Titan filter is better, but still bypasses at higher pressures.
 
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Yeah, all I know about them is that they keep the engine running to extend cooling beyond when you leave the vehicle. In the audi world they are considered to be a "must have" for turbo longevity. I guess it's not really addressing the real problem in your case though... Still might be a good thing to check out.

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I've also heard they are important, and that shutting down the car shortly after being in boost is not usually good. I think someone made a thread on the ORG about a 335i and wanting to buy it but the guy pulled up to his house and shut it off too soon.
 
I went a while on the oem radiator punishing my original and second set of turbos at the track. 12 second runs were done on the oem radiator in what is our desert area so hot days and hard pulls never had a coolant overflow issue.

Do you have a dyno with A/F? Have seen you post a few different ones here and there, the top end looks really choppy.

One thing I didn't mention that I believe is relevant - I had my OEM ECU tuned prior to the turbo build at a different shop. About three weeks after the tune was done, there were some gremlins that surfaced - in that choppy response you have seen. rpms spike from 3000-4500 way too fast and I can induce a stutter if I suddenly decelerate during that spike. I only drove with those issues for a few weeks before going in for the turbo build - I figured adding the Haltech would get rid of the problems. I didn't know the Haltech is actually pass-through and the gremlins have stayed in the system. SO. We are going to push the original stock tune back to the ECU, then tune on the dyno once again. I will be sure to have the tuner include A/F on any pulls that I plan to post. In addition to the radiator and thermostat, I decided to buy the Osiris cable to make future adjustments to the ECU more convenient for me.

It's good to have your experience with the radiator first hand. There seems to be mixed opinions on the Z/G forums. Did you have the lower temp thermostat? Maybe that's all I need to control the overflow problem?

When the car goes in for the new thermostat, radiator and tune, we will also be doing an oil change - sending the used oil for an analysis. That should tell us if we have headgasket problems or anything else really wonky going on.
 
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Ok, the FX is back in the shop for the final leg of my Forced Induction build. Got a decent punch list to knock out and I expect the car to be down for three or four weeks.

I now own the Osiris cable. Along with the Haltech, I can now tune my own system but have no plans to change anything the shop does for now. Plan is to finish both power and driving tuning, then add a selectable valet tune as well - max 3000rpm.

The charge pipe will be re-worked. Some damage on the 120 degree bend in the pipe will be cut out, a new piece welded back into place and then the whole thing sent out for ceramic coating before re-install.

A new Koyo V-core 36mm radiator, upgraded pressure cap and a Nismo T-stat being installed. I actually think I do not need these items as the system is working well as is - but I'm trying to future proof the car, in case I ever want to step up to a larger turbo/injectors.

Rotella T5 0w-40 oil change, sending in old oil for analysis.

Installing the Canton Racing no-bypass oil filter system.

NKG copper spark plugs

Installing a new catch can system

Finding & fixing vibrations & rattles in the fabricated pipes and/or suspension

Adding battery Quick disconnects

Install powered USB hub (permanent Haltech & Osiris, hard wired)

Hopefully by the end of October I'll have her back permanently. At least until the body work starts...
 
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