Jumbo wheels

I hear ya - I'm still trying to convince myself!!!

If I can find what I'm looking for without going custom, great. I know the chances are small. I may very well end up going with the iForged. Just found out a minute ago that the 22" Snettertons are 43 lbs, which are heavier than my OEMs (38 lbs).

I'm definitely jealous of all the iForged and HRE owners out there. For the price of some of those wheels you could buy a whole car!
 
You mean the Sevas rim that is notorious for cracking and the entire barrel splitting?

I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. Do a search and you'll know what I mean.

I went to the org to find the wheel and all I could find were links to other sites slamming the Sevas rim. Never did even see the one being sold.
 
I hear ya - I'm still trying to convince myself!!!

If I can find what I'm looking for without going custom, great. I know the chances are small. I may very well end up going with the iForged. Just found out a minute ago that the 22" Snettertons are 43 lbs, which are heavier than my OEMs (38 lbs).

I'm definitely jealous of all the iForged and HRE owners out there. For the price of some of those wheels you could buy a whole car!

Or invest in your FI set-up :) There are a lot of nice 20" no lip lightweights out there for around 500 a pop, Forgestar, Ultraleggaras, running around 26lbs.......big difference between 43 and 26.......
 
Jumbo you are better off going with HRE, DPE, IForged, CCW, or some other muti-piece forged company. I will say that nothing is perfect though. The bolts on both my IForged and HREs rusted like crazy, water in the inner barrel of the IForged caused shaking while driving in rain, and some other stuff that are pretty much trade offs when purchasing these wheels (theft, being pissed off at the dealership/tireshop for scratching them lol).

However they are much better than most offerings out there. I still like my Fortes though, they look damn good on my FX.
 
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Jumbo you are better off going with HRE, DPE, IForged, CCW, or some other muti-piece forged company. I will say that nothing is perfect though. The bolts on both my IForged and HREs rusted like crazy, water in the inner barrel of the IForged caused shaking while driving in rain, and some other stuff that are pretty much trade offs when purchasing these wheels (theft, being pissed off at the dealership/tireshop for scratching them lol).

However they are much better than most offerings out there. I still like my Fortes though, they look damn good on my FX.

Thanks for the input. My main reason for wanting to buy high quality wheels would mean NO shaking, no need for spacers and BBK clearance, the exact stance/offset I want, lighter than OEM for performance improvement, etc.

Not sure I understand how it's possible to get water in the inner barrel or why bolts rusted (aren't they stainless?). Paying big bucks for aftermarket wheels should give me peace of mind when it comes to quality, but from what you are saying that's not necessarily true? The theft and damage I understand!
 
Thanks for the input. My main reason for wanting to buy high quality wheels would mean NO shaking, no need for spacers and BBK clearance, the exact stance/offset I want, lighter than OEM for performance improvement, etc.

Not sure I understand how it's possible to get water in the inner barrel or why bolts rusted (aren't they stainless?). Paying big bucks for aftermarket wheels should give me peace of mind when it comes to quality, but from what you are saying that's not necessarily true? The theft and damage I understand!

I am not sure why the bolts rusted. I lived on the water, but the ///M was garaged and the IForged developed rust on the bolts. The HREs developed even more as the car was kept under the second story deck but outside. All bolts are original.

The inner barrel on my IForged would trap water and that is why they shook. If I came to a stop you could see the collected water in the inner barrel. Now that may not happen on the FX (inner barrel design may be different).

I understand the no spacers and hubcentric ring deal. I have hubcentric rings currently and will still have them on the newly purchased SSR GT3s (not as nice as the custom built wheels but still at 30.8lbs in 20x10.5 they are lighter than stock).

I think you intend on keeping your FX for a very very long time. So why not go ahead and spend they money on the wheels. There are some IForged and HRE owners here, to be different I would try DPE, or something else if I were going that route right now. I recently checked Kodiak Racing wheels and they do not make anything 20" or above. If you want to just powedercoat your stockers for now I know someone that can powdercoat them for you.
 
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I am not sure why the bolts rusted. I lived on the water, but the ///M was garaged and the IForged developed rust on the bolts. The HREs developed even more as the car was kept under the second story deck but outside. All bolts are original.

The inner barrel on my IForged would trap water and that is why they shook. If I came to a stop you could see the collected water in the inner barrel. Now that may not happen on the FX (inner barrel design may be different).

I understand the no spacers and hubcentric ring deal. I have hubcentric rings currently and will still have them on the newly purchased SSR GT3s (not as nice as the custom built wheels but still at 30.8lbs in 20x10.5 they are lighter than stock).

I think you intend on keeping your FX for a very very long time. So why not go ahead and spend they money on the wheels. There are some IForged and HRE owners here, to be different I would try DPE, or something else if I were going that route right now. I recently checked Kodiak Racing wheels and they do not make anything 20" or above. If you want to just powedercoat your stockers for now I know someone that can powdercoat them for you.

Yeah, you're right about me wanting to keep it. I just have a hard time, "spending the money" when I have a perfectly good set of stockers that I actually really like. Wouldn't get them powder coated even if it was free! I will definitely look into DPE - thanks. My deal is that it has to be an improvement - I have a set of 20's that I like, so I really would like my new set to be 22", but with all the advantages I mentioned to make the purchase "worth it" to me.
 
I just wanted to throw out another wheel company that I had considered at one point when looking at 22's:

http://www.jlinewheels.com/models.html

Lot's of options, custom wheel specs, forged, probably lighter (at least at the edges) ... and I believe though still expensive, not the same sticker shock as HRE's etc ... In any event, goodluck w/ your search!
 
Ok, checked out Cor Forged, Jline, DPE and a few others along the way. I'm having a tough time finding what I want with style and weight together. Just seems like most 22" wheels are about the same weight or only slightly less than the stockers.

I've sort of come full circle back to iForged, and a couple IS members here have them and they do look great (Turbocad & HumbertoCali). I've been saving up for wheels and I'm just about there - I could pull the trigger and pay them in full next month or the month after. I'm trying to stay calm about it to make sure I get exactly what I want. There will be no buyer's remorse if I decide to go for it.

I'm currently looking at all 5 of these models :

Seneka, Swift & Sprint:
http://iforged.com/us/wheels_category.php?CatID=1

Essen & Neo
http://iforged.com/us/wheels_category.php?CatID=11

They range between 34 and 38 lbs and should be marginally lighter than the stockers with tires on them. Just not enough for noticeable torque gains, which is what I'm really hoping for. Once I narrow it down to one or two models, I will try to get a final weight along with the tires I chose and decide if I have reached my value point.

Currently I do NOT want a staggered setup - because I want to be able to rotate all four tires to any corner on either side. This also takes out a directional tire. For those of you with decent wheel experience - am I limiting myself too much with these self-imposed restrictions?

My plan is to have the lip as large as possible on the front, making sure to clear the BBK, then just match the back to that. It's not important to me that the rear tires are wider than the front, what's important is that the wheel is almost flush with the side fenders. That's an offset consideration and not much more. I figure if I stay with 9.5" wide, that will help with the weight as well.
 
it will be harder to find a not directional tire ... also performance would be less with a non directional tire. IMO just rotate front to back only or have them remounted once in a long while.
good luck with the wheel search as 22" will look sweet with your BBK
 
Ok, checked out Cor Forged, Jline, DPE and a few others along the way. I'm having a tough time finding what I want with style and weight together. Just seems like most 22" wheels are about the same weight or only slightly less than the stockers.

I've sort of come full circle back to iForged, and a couple IS members here have them and they do look great (Turbocad & HumbertoCali). I've been saving up for wheels and I'm just about there - I could pull the trigger and pay them in full next month or the month after. I'm trying to stay calm about it to make sure I get exactly what I want. There will be no buyer's remorse if I decide to go for it.

I'm currently looking at all 5 of these models :

Seneka, Swift & Sprint:
http://iforged.com/us/wheels_category.php?CatID=1

Essen & Neo
http://iforged.com/us/wheels_category.php?CatID=11

They range between 34 and 38 lbs and should be marginally lighter than the stockers with tires on them. Just not enough for noticeable torque gains, which is what I'm really hoping for. Once I narrow it down to one or two models, I will try to get a final weight along with the tires I chose and decide if I have reached my value point.

Currently I do NOT want a staggered setup - because I want to be able to rotate all four tires to any corner on either side. This also takes out a directional tire. For those of you with decent wheel experience - am I limiting myself too much with these self-imposed restrictions?

My plan is to have the lip as large as possible on the front, making sure to clear the BBK, then just match the back to that. It's not important to me that the rear tires are wider than the front, what's important is that the wheel is almost flush with the side fenders. That's an offset consideration and not much more. I figure if I stay with 9.5" wide, that will help with the weight as well.

Like I told you before...

when you ready to chose the right wheel and set up I can put in a good word with the owner of Iforged to get the wheels you like so you wont have to deal with any middle men...
 
I think the iforged sprints would look really nice! Its a very clean/simple rim that would also show off the BBK. The other choices are kinda busy if you know what i mean. My 2cents lol
 
Ok, checked out Cor Forged, Jline, DPE and a few others along the way. I'm having a tough time finding what I want with style and weight together. Just seems like most 22" wheels are about the same weight or only slightly less than the stockers.

I've sort of come full circle back to iForged, and a couple IS members here have them and they do look great (Turbocad & HumbertoCali). I've been saving up for wheels and I'm just about there - I could pull the trigger and pay them in full next month or the month after. I'm trying to stay calm about it to make sure I get exactly what I want. There will be no buyer's remorse if I decide to go for it.

I'm currently looking at all 5 of these models :

Seneka, Swift & Sprint:
http://iforged.com/us/wheels_category.php?CatID=1

Essen & Neo
http://iforged.com/us/wheels_category.php?CatID=11

They range between 34 and 38 lbs and should be marginally lighter than the stockers with tires on them. Just not enough for noticeable torque gains, which is what I'm really hoping for. Once I narrow it down to one or two models, I will try to get a final weight along with the tires I chose and decide if I have reached my value point.

Currently I do NOT want a staggered setup - because I want to be able to rotate all four tires to any corner on either side. This also takes out a directional tire. For those of you with decent wheel experience - am I limiting myself too much with these self-imposed restrictions?

My plan is to have the lip as large as possible on the front, making sure to clear the BBK, then just match the back to that. It's not important to me that the rear tires are wider than the front, what's important is that the wheel is almost flush with the side fenders. That's an offset consideration and not much more. I figure if I stay with 9.5" wide, that will help with the weight as well.

I'd go with the Sprint too. They look like the HRE's rookie had. The other are too BMWish or just too busy in general.

Doc has the iForged Classic too, and those look great.

My suggestion is a 2 piece, 9.5" wide all around with +21 mm offset on a 265/40/22 Hankook Ventus RH06 or Goodyear Fortera tire (both directional).

2 piece = less issues as no bead to re-seal after a few years.

9.5" wide, any wider, it gets much harder to balance such a large wheel/tire. Also, for every day driver, less sensitivity to the road with a 9.5" wide tire vs wider tires.

You can still rotate front to rear and I've done this with mine and have no issues. Since I'm very close to being out of spec, this was important to me, but having to swap all around didn't pose a problem. This did worry me at first, but after many miles, no uneven tread wear.

As a tip, buy a 25mm spacer and your spare tire should fit the front stoptech kit, but use the template to be sure.
 
Jumbo, I would recommend the Daytona's as I think it will give a better visual appearance to your BKK. But anyone one anyone you choose will look great.
 
Vera nice, digging the wheel! Almost had to break my laptop got so irritated with the ethereal "new age" background music tho'......
 
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