Patience?!? =) Going to buy some tools, thanks man. During the breakdown of my side mirrors (off for dremmeling of the material, fitment, back off for more work, wiring, taking them in for color matching the black trim, yadda yadda, must have had my door panels off 6-7 times (same with my back hatch). Each progessive time I began to think "okay, eventually something is going to break here"......I did lose a couple of cable clips in the back seat sound deadening install process.....
Jumbo Dynamat / Insulation install
- Thread starter jumbosrule
- Start date
Under the back seat I had laid down Dynamat and there are a few cables and wires routed in the area. They are held in by unique clips (unlike anything in the door panels or in the engine bay) and they did NOT want to come out without breaking. I ended up using aluminum tape to hold down the cables and wires where the clip had been before I laid down the Dynamat.
Doing my trunk area is going to be interesting because of the custom audio I had installed back there. I have never tried to take out the components or the floor since the installer did his thing. Hope I don't break anything.
The hood liner is also a bit of an unknown. "For best results" I'm supposed to lay down a layer of regular Dynamat before putting the Hoodliner on top of that. I guess this means I'll be deleting the factory hood insulation.
Doing my trunk area is going to be interesting because of the custom audio I had installed back there. I have never tried to take out the components or the floor since the installer did his thing. Hope I don't break anything.
The hood liner is also a bit of an unknown. "For best results" I'm supposed to lay down a layer of regular Dynamat before putting the Hoodliner on top of that. I guess this means I'll be deleting the factory hood insulation.
Thought I would post a blurb about this so all my Dynamat info is in one area.
Doing the hoodliner was a lot less work intensive than I thought it would be.
After popping out the plastic retainers for the hood fire blanket, I wiped down the surfaces to clean them for the Dynamat. I took an entire sheet of Dynamat and applied it down the center of the hood, using the metal ribs for visual spacing. Two more sheets of Dynamat extreme went onto the hood and I trimmed away all the material after the OEM weather seals. Took about 30 minutes for the layer of Dynamat Extreme.
Then the hoodliner. I peeled off a softball size peice of backing so that the adhesive was exposed in the very center of the hoodliner. I stuck it in the center of the hood and used masking tape to flatten it out. Then I used a piece of sidewalk chalk on all the OEM seals so that when I closed the hood, the chalk marked the hoodliner where I wanted to trim. Popped off the hoodliner, trimmed inside all the chalk lines, the peeled off the backing and applied it to the hood. The OEM seals touch nothing but the surface they are supposed to touch, with the insulation butting next to it. I can tell it makes contact with the Strut tower brace, but it doesn't seem to bother anything.
I'm totally surprised how much difference it really makes in sound reduction - about as much as doing all the doors and rear seat! Totally excited to do the trunk now...
Doing the hoodliner was a lot less work intensive than I thought it would be.
After popping out the plastic retainers for the hood fire blanket, I wiped down the surfaces to clean them for the Dynamat. I took an entire sheet of Dynamat and applied it down the center of the hood, using the metal ribs for visual spacing. Two more sheets of Dynamat extreme went onto the hood and I trimmed away all the material after the OEM weather seals. Took about 30 minutes for the layer of Dynamat Extreme.
Then the hoodliner. I peeled off a softball size peice of backing so that the adhesive was exposed in the very center of the hoodliner. I stuck it in the center of the hood and used masking tape to flatten it out. Then I used a piece of sidewalk chalk on all the OEM seals so that when I closed the hood, the chalk marked the hoodliner where I wanted to trim. Popped off the hoodliner, trimmed inside all the chalk lines, the peeled off the backing and applied it to the hood. The OEM seals touch nothing but the surface they are supposed to touch, with the insulation butting next to it. I can tell it makes contact with the Strut tower brace, but it doesn't seem to bother anything.
I'm totally surprised how much difference it really makes in sound reduction - about as much as doing all the doors and rear seat! Totally excited to do the trunk now...
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Finally I laid down the last of my second bulk pack of Dynamat in the driver's foot-well. I now have a full 72 square feet of Dynamat inside the FX, covering the doors, trunk, hood, front foot-wells and rear seat and kick plate.
I had waffled on doing the front footwells before because of how difficult it is to remove the carpeting and OEM insulation. Now that I have Forced Induction, the engine noise is much more noticeable when I'm aggressive with the throttle. Insulating the front footwells and as much of the firewall as possible became more of a priority.
Some of the OEM insulation is bonded to the floor with an adhesive. I had to peel it off to get to the metal floor and didn't have totally open access. I worked with smaller pieces of the insulation, jigsawing coverage together before replacing all the OEM interior trim. I didn't quite have enough to cover all the visible metal, but if I ever buy more I'll go back and cover the last little bit towards the seat.
What a difference in sound! I'm SO much happier I did the insulation. It balances the power with a more cushy cabin experience.
I've been so happy with each Dynamat install that I also still want to Dynamat under all six pillars from floor to ceiling as well. I think I could easily use another 36 square feet (another bulk package) on the pillars, rear foot-wells and ceiling.
Three bulk packs of Dynamat is equal to 45 lbs. Guess I need to lose a little weight.
I had waffled on doing the front footwells before because of how difficult it is to remove the carpeting and OEM insulation. Now that I have Forced Induction, the engine noise is much more noticeable when I'm aggressive with the throttle. Insulating the front footwells and as much of the firewall as possible became more of a priority.
Some of the OEM insulation is bonded to the floor with an adhesive. I had to peel it off to get to the metal floor and didn't have totally open access. I worked with smaller pieces of the insulation, jigsawing coverage together before replacing all the OEM interior trim. I didn't quite have enough to cover all the visible metal, but if I ever buy more I'll go back and cover the last little bit towards the seat.
What a difference in sound! I'm SO much happier I did the insulation. It balances the power with a more cushy cabin experience.
I've been so happy with each Dynamat install that I also still want to Dynamat under all six pillars from floor to ceiling as well. I think I could easily use another 36 square feet (another bulk package) on the pillars, rear foot-wells and ceiling.
Three bulk packs of Dynamat is equal to 45 lbs. Guess I need to lose a little weight.
- Location
- Los Angeles, CA
- Car
- 05 FX35 RWD
45lbs wont matter with all the xtra boost 
TK76
Member
- Location
- Ashburn,VA
I envy you jumbosrule. I really want to get myself to do this as it would make the FX the ideal car. Runs like a cheetah, quiet as a mouse...
easy_goer
Member
- Location
- richardson,TX
Hi Jumbo,
Where did you order Dynamat from & what size was it ?.( if you don't mind)
Thanks.
Where did you order Dynamat from & what size was it ?.( if you don't mind)
Thanks.
TK - thanks, man I appreciate it. When you take a look at the big picture it seems a little overwhelming but I do it in small sections that are easy to tackle in a day or over a weekend. Plan on just doing one door the first time, as an example. The insulation is a great value if you DIY the install. To my ear the clarity of the music is improved OR the reduction in road noise just makes it sound more clear. Either way - jumbolike.
Easy_G - I've been the most successful buying on eBay. You want the 36 square feet bulk package. Here is the retail website at $310.
http://www.dynamat.com/products_car_audio_sheets_and_bulk_paks.html
I have purchased two of these bulk packages for $100 each, shipping included.
Did a quick search and found this one for $129
http://www.caraudiodeals.com/dynamat-10455-p-897.html
Some people here on the forum have posted that there are other insulation materials out there that do a better job for less money. I guess that is true if you pay retail for the Dynamat bulk package. If you get the $100 deal then IMO the value is there for a proven, readily available product. No reason you couldn't use another popular brand like Brown Bead Ultimate if you get a better deal per square foot.
I would recommend a roller tool to help with the install, but you can buy these at the hardware store in the wallpaper section for two bucks. Or you could just make a roller, lol.
Easy_G - I've been the most successful buying on eBay. You want the 36 square feet bulk package. Here is the retail website at $310.
http://www.dynamat.com/products_car_audio_sheets_and_bulk_paks.html
I have purchased two of these bulk packages for $100 each, shipping included.
Did a quick search and found this one for $129
http://www.caraudiodeals.com/dynamat-10455-p-897.html
Some people here on the forum have posted that there are other insulation materials out there that do a better job for less money. I guess that is true if you pay retail for the Dynamat bulk package. If you get the $100 deal then IMO the value is there for a proven, readily available product. No reason you couldn't use another popular brand like Brown Bead Ultimate if you get a better deal per square foot.
I would recommend a roller tool to help with the install, but you can buy these at the hardware store in the wallpaper section for two bucks. Or you could just make a roller, lol.
TK76
Member
- Location
- Ashburn,VA
If you do this please post a DIY.
i will if i have time. currently i'm working on my other project right now.
but i would like to know how much this cost totally ( parts )
If you get good prices, I think you could Dynamat the entire car for just under $500.
3 x 36sq ft bulk packs @ $130 each
Hoodliner @ $75
A couple weekends
3 x 36sq ft bulk packs @ $130 each
Hoodliner @ $75
A couple weekends
The value comes with doing it yourself and taking the time to do it right. Huge bang for the buck IMO - I'd recommend doing it to anybody who has basic tool knowledge.
raymond
Member
- Location
- Netherlands
- Car
- FX35 RWD
Just wanted to bump this tread with some questions.
Now with your engine ready could you say it would help engine noise better. If i'll do this it 'll only be for that.
And when not having a extreme audio system but only oem would the rear be neccasary as well...??
And final did the hoodliner made a big diffrence as well...?? I think so but honestly am to anal about estatics and don't really like the look of that....sorry bud....:wub:
P.s: I now see they also have Dynamat Light, wich is thinner and therefore lighter......but will it work the same as the Xtreme version....??
Now with your engine ready could you say it would help engine noise better. If i'll do this it 'll only be for that.
And when not having a extreme audio system but only oem would the rear be neccasary as well...??
And final did the hoodliner made a big diffrence as well...?? I think so but honestly am to anal about estatics and don't really like the look of that....sorry bud....:wub:
P.s: I now see they also have Dynamat Light, wich is thinner and therefore lighter......but will it work the same as the Xtreme version....??
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Ray I think most any product from a reputable company makes some kind of improvement. Yes, the hoodliner did make a very big improvement in quieting down the engine noise. But I also have most of the firewall footwells and doors covered as well.
Doing the rear of the car will help cut down on road noise more than anything else. In your case it might quiet down that exhaust rattle. :tonguey:
There are other types of insulation products out there that have better "finished" looks. An internet search should give you a bunch of results but for your area of course.
It is possible to go too crazy with insulation. For "premium" installations there are often two three or even four layers of materials! Using just the Dynamat extreme as I illustrated in this thread, I have had great results. I have also had many people tell me I didn't do it properly, or that I could have done it better, or that I used the wrong material, or didn't put it in the right place...
I followed Dynamat's instructions and really do like what it did for the interior feel. If you want that higher class luxury interior feel, I'm thinking you gotta do some kind of insulation.
Doing the rear of the car will help cut down on road noise more than anything else. In your case it might quiet down that exhaust rattle. :tonguey:
There are other types of insulation products out there that have better "finished" looks. An internet search should give you a bunch of results but for your area of course.
It is possible to go too crazy with insulation. For "premium" installations there are often two three or even four layers of materials! Using just the Dynamat extreme as I illustrated in this thread, I have had great results. I have also had many people tell me I didn't do it properly, or that I could have done it better, or that I used the wrong material, or didn't put it in the right place...
I followed Dynamat's instructions and really do like what it did for the interior feel. If you want that higher class luxury interior feel, I'm thinking you gotta do some kind of insulation.
raymond
Member
- Location
- Netherlands
- Car
- FX35 RWD
Hahha Biatschhhhhhh
But thanks. I texted you yesterday but already got my answers. Sorry to have bothered you.
- Location
- Portland, OR
FWIW, one of the reasons I went with the B-Quiet product line is that for some reason their product installs much flatter, without the crinkled look that you see with Dynamat. Just looks cleaner imo. That, and they don't plaster their name all over the insulation...
Example:
B-Quiet Extreme
Dynamat Extreme
