Interest for development of custom rear control arm fix for toe and camber issues

Interested in custom control arms for toe/camber fix?

  • Yes. I'm interested!

    Votes: 10 71.4%

  • No. I'll pass.

    Votes: 4 28.6%
  • Total voters
    14
  • Poll closed .
Interest for development of custom rear control arm fix for toe and camber is...

PEEJ said:
That's strange. It shouldn't be flexing like that. Have you asked other members what coilover settings that are using? Find out so that you can configure yours identically.
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I asked Zepra about the preload, he has mid for both front n rear, although dont think it is from preload rather spring issue ?
He told me something about that it should be re-tourqed to OEM specs, but I dont know how is that can be done. Ll wait for his feedback..


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I didn't mean the damping adjustment, I mean the springs preload setting. I'm pretty sure that the rear was installed wrong that's why it's bouncy. Reason is that the rear are 2 separate pieces, so the shop didn't know how to adjust the preload. I had many many customers came to me complained about the bouncy and flexing rides only to find out that the shops install the rear coilovers was wrong.

Here's the video to adjust the preload (only applicable to the front). Skip to 2:45s:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlqOA35NmAw

As for the rear (which I highly suspect that the shop did wrong). Follow the following steps, I'm typing it out as I remember so feel free to ask me if you've any questions:

1. Raise the car up
2. Loosen the rear sway bar (if you have it) and loosen the spring bucket bolts (both of them) but don't take them off, just slightly loosen them.
3. Check the rear springs to see if they're loose or tight.
4. If the rear springs are loose, meaning you have too much negative preload. Use the jack to jack up the spring bucket up until it sit just about snug with the top perch.
5. Loosen the rear shock locking ring and shorten the shocks distance until you'll be able to release the jack and the shock can hold up the spring just right (not loose).
6. If the rear springs are tight, meaning you have too much positive preload, loose the rear shock locking ring and lengthen the shocks until the springs relax a lil.

That's the gist of it. I suspect that the place installed the rear shocks left it at full length, so when you're lower the car, the shocks are super compressed, thus don't get to travel freely, that's why the car is very bouncy and flexing. You need to shorten the shock so the strut can fully compress/decompress.


Hope that helps. And if it really does, tell whatever shop to buy you a drink. ;)
 
atl_red_G35 said:
I didn't mean the damping adjustment, I mean the springs preload setting. I'm pretty sure that the rear was installed wrong that's why it's bouncy. Reason is that the rear are 2 separate pieces, so the shop didn't know how to adjust the preload. I had many many customers came to me complained about the bouncy and flexing rides only to find out that the shops install the rear coilovers was wrong.

Here's the video to adjust the preload (only applicable to the front). Skip to 2:45s:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlqOA35NmAw

As for the rear (which I highly suspect that the shop did wrong). Follow the following steps, I'm typing it out as I remember so feel free to ask me if you've any questions:

1. Raise the car up
2. Loosen the rear sway bar (if you have it) and loosen the spring bucket bolts (both of them) but don't take them off, just slightly loosen them.
3. Check the rear springs to see if they're loose or tight.
4. If the rear springs are loose, meaning you have too much negative preload. Use the jack to jack up the spring bucket up until it sit just about snug with the top perch.
5. Loosen the rear shock locking ring and shorten the shocks distance until you'll be able to release the jack and the shock can hold up the spring just right (not loose).
6. If the rear springs are tight, meaning you have too much positive preload, loose the rear shock locking ring and lengthen the shocks until the springs relax a lil.

That's the gist of it. I suspect that the place installed the rear shocks left it at full length, so when you're lower the car, the shocks are super compressed, thus don't get to travel freely, that's why the car is very bouncy and flexing. You need to shorten the shock so the strut can fully compress/decompress.


Hope that helps. And if it really does, tell whatever shop to buy you a drink. ;)
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Thanks a lot bro, much appreciated, well explained n informative.. Will try to go another shop n let them do it in addition re-torque it as spec as Zepra comments
Front:
Strut to body: 29-40 ft.lbs
Strut. Ti knuckle. 114-133 ft.lbs

Rear:
Strut to body: 12-14 ft. Lbs
Strut to knuckle: 65-80 ft-lbs

Thanks guys, much appreciated..


Sent from my iPhone
 
Yeah, the rears are easy to mess up and if they don't adjust shock length to match spring height, you end up with either too much preload or no shock travel and bottoming out. When I first installed my BC's, I had to leave the OEM rear struts in for a day because the nuts had seized. Driving around with BC springs and OEM struts, it felt like I was riding on bricks because I was pretty much bottomed out all the time in back. If the shop didn't adjust the shock length in rear, the same thing is probably happening.

But in the front, preload doesn't have any impact on ride since it's adjusted independently of ride height and the springs are linear.

Keep in mind that the coilover springs you're running are probably close to double the spring rate of OEM springs so it's going to ride very differently. And OEM springs are progressive while coilovers are linear rate so again, the ride will be different. No matter what you do, the ride is going to be much harsher than OEM. So you will bounce around a little more and feel more bumps/dips and road imperfections.
 
It's awesome to see other members pitch in to help remedy a problem and offer solutions.

That is why this site ROCKS

 
Check your sway bars. Make sure theyre not disconnected. Also check your control arm bushings. Make sure everythings tight under there. It could always be something else.
 
Hey, guys. I've been pretty busy over the past several weeks but will speak to Sean tomorrow and have him chime in if possible. As I stated earlier, I definitely plan on getting this done irregardless of the cost just to get it off the ground.
 
Athlon said:
Hey, guys. I've been pretty busy over the past several weeks but will speak to Sean tomorrow and have him chime in if possible. As I stated earlier, I definitely plan on getting this done irregardless of the cost just to get it off the ground.
Click to expand...

Regardless ...​sorry!
 
I spoke to SPL-Parts just now. They said they are pleased to see a good amount of interest so far. Based on the number of people interested, they can then gauge R&D costs. They would like me to leave the poll up for about 90 days before coming up with the final cost. If you can vote yes, it definitely helps. I know people want a front camber/toe solution, but the rear camber/toe is what has been talked about most on this forum and is the most pressing issue; people report that the fronts don't wear out as bad if at all compared to stock setup. One step at a time. Keep in mind these are the same guys who helped design suspension components for the GTR Alpha Omega! So they do excellent work.
 
Interest for development of custom rear control arm fix for toe and camber is...

I don't know where your getting your info from but the fronts are what is needed most bro. I had Both H&R's and now coilovers and on both the camber on the front was horrible. Quite frankly I'm not even worried about the rears as much as I am the front.
 
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Usually tire not affected that much cuz shops they adjust the TOE to overcome the effect of the low camper, but I second RIP it is very needed. I don't think it is the right way to have the rear adjusted n on Spec while the front is Off Spec, I think the driving it ll be affected.. Not sure though..


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Athlon, thanks for following up. I would say there is quite a bit of interest on this forum; moreover, if the product is available in the market more people would be interested to buy it specially that OE components are very pricey and do not give you any flexibility with adjusting anything (camber and tow adjustment, hopefully you wont need a caster adjustment or you're SOL). Now as far as which kit, I'd say both front and rear need to be adjusted as coilovers and springs do affect both, perhaps not to the same extent. As a person who cares about how the car performs/handles and not wanting to over-stress any parts including tire/ tirewear I am very interested to have the option for both front and rear and have a beefed up suspension. I'll be going to a local shop this week who specializes in suspension and engine mods to see if they would have a solution or be willing to work on anything.
I think I can say this for everyone who has been following this thread closely that we're all keen on having this adjustment ability and would really like to get our hands on a quality product as soon as possible. The only reason I have held back on changing to springs or coilovers is the tire wear; although Im not quite sure the extent to which being out of camber specs would affect tire wear and how quickly and badly it affects the tires. If anyone has any personal experience I'd like to hear it.
 
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Thanks for the info, guys. I'll talk to Sean about it on Monday to have both the front and rears looked into concurrently.
 
@Athlon: do you happen to know when we can hear back? I know its not a quick thing..
 
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