Install New Shocks, Struts and H&R Springs

Yea, I don't always have a long period of time (4 hours straight-through). My weekends are wrapped up in family time - and whenever I work on my rigs - it's in the evening after work (weeknights)- after my daughter is put to bed. I get from 10pm-11pm every weeknight to myself. :)
We have 3 D.D. vehicles between my wife and I - so it could sit for 4 months if it had too - no worries on getting it back on the road.
My last clutch-job and rear main seal took me 2 weeks....LOL.....it's just an hour here and an hour there. This is probably my 6th or 7th strut-job.
The driver side front took me 45 minutes total - this isn't a hard job. I first did the front, and now the rear - when I find time.
I just didn't realize my jack was such a POS - lost pressure and dropped. I still don't know what caused the hole - I just noticed everything had dropped, and new grease was coming out of the boot. The boot was extremely stretched - so I would guess a stress-rip.
I wouldn't recommend letting the hub assembly drop and hang - while the CV is still in place. Not a good idea - yes, it can support the weight, but everything stretches beyond what it is suppose to. (hence the reason I have a hole in a boot)

I'll start a new thread on CV boot replacement/axle replacement.
 
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I "Shoe-Gooed" the pin hole for the time being. The off-road Toyota guys swear by the stuff and say it will out-last the actual boot itself. We'll see. I'll have a boot on order ready for install if it leaks.
 
I forgot to add - the new struts are amazing. The FX feels brand new.
Some tips: (I wouldn't do this without an air compressor/impact)

Front:
The autozone free rental spring compressors (2pc) work just fine. When using them, be sure to get 3 coils each before compressing. Grab a big F*king hammer and when you get the cups on the coils, hammer them around towards the base of the bottom/top of spring cups - until the compressors are even on each side (or close).

When installing new struts - zip tie the bottom rubber cup pad (there is a little nipple on the opposite side). This eliminates the pad moving around when installing.

Make sure you place the hub assembly on a jack stand/solid base - use good wire to tie up.

Rear:
I couldn't find torque specs on the rear top strut nut. Pay attention to how many threads are on your stock struts - I had 4 threads showing - so I tightened up the new to the same.
 
Just a point for any of you that live in cold/snowy/salty climates (think northern midwest or northern east coast), if you have any rust be prepared to potentially change out some parts.

I lowered my FX several months ago and ended up changing:

1) strut bolts (one was rusted in, ended up cutting it out then beating it out with a hammer)
2) strut bar (just as a note a new one also needs the nut when you order it through the dealer)

My truck was up on jackstands for nearly 1 weeks while the parts were "on order".

Just an FYI, I had no idea it was going to take that long.
 
^^ yea, those bolts can be a PIA to take out. I spray them with WD40 the day I decided to replace them myself and continue with the regiment a couple of days apart till the actual removal/installation day and that seems to help. I still need to extend the break bar with jack handle and bounce on it a couple of times to break them loose.
 
question -

does anyone know what size nut is used to connect the sway bar link to the strut? Mine got rounded and we have to dremel it off somehow now...

thanks in advance!

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edit

nvm, dug through the coilover diy thread and found it was a 17mm nut. Now.. how to hack away the rounded nut =|
 
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Great DIY write up. This is my next project, being that I'm bouncing everywere on the highway. I'm just waiting on the H&R springs to come back into stock at Tirerack.com. I've looked everywere for a good price, but it seems that I have to wait for the end of this month to order.

This should be easy since I have the on base hobby shop for use.:tup:
 
question -

for new lowering springs i understand that you should give it at least a month for everything to settle before alignment. How about 1+ yr old used springs?

I'm thinking about just giving it one or two weeks to settle then alignment. My rears have been dropped for a week and there is already considerable negative camber. Fronts dropped for a day... so thinking about two more week waiting time
 
Do i need to purchase the strut mounts? will u think it will off (car has 80k)?
Also can man power disassemble these bolts? Or i should get a impact wrench?
 
Dracula said:
Do i need to purchase the strut mounts? will u think it will off (car has 80k)?
Also can man power disassemble these bolts? Or i should get a impact wrench?
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You should get the struts and the strut bearings. Everything else is reusable. An impact wrench isn't necessary but would make the job much easier. I did mine with hand tools and manly man power.

Here's me right after I finished:
biceps.jpg
 

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tchuck said:
You should get the struts and the strut bearings. Everything else is reusable. An impact wrench isn't necessary but would make the job much easier. I did mine with hand tools and manly man power.

Here's me right after I finished:
biceps.jpg
Click to expand...

and I thought you were a girl :eek.:.
 

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An impact wrench will definitely helps to loosen those two bolts that mount the strut to the knuckle. If not, just to a cheater bar.
An impact wrench will also help to speed up the compressing of the spring on the spring compressor tool.
 
im stuck, the spring carrier bolt came out one end and got stuck in the other end, i cant pull the bolt outt!!,

also should i take both spring carrier bolts??
help!!
 
Dracula said:
im stuck, the spring carrier bolt came out one end and got stuck in the other end, i cant pull the bolt outt!!,

also should i take both spring carrier bolts??
help!!
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Are you talking about the rear spring bucket carrier? If so it needs to be supported and jacked up by a floor jack so the just the one bolt closest to you is pulled when the spring is compressed by the jacking up of the bucket then lower the jack slowly to release spring tension and then when fully decompressed(jack lowered) remove and replace the spring. CAUTION DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE SPRING CARRIER BOLT WHILE THE SPRING IS UNDER TENSION SERIOUS INJURY COULD OCCUR!!!
 
I totally agree with MNT's suggestion. I use the OEM screw jack (the one that comes with the car), place the jack right under the outer bolt (closest to the rotor) and slowly jack the bucket up enough so that the bolt can slide out with a little tuck and then slowly lower the OEM screw jack to drop the bucket. You will need to push down a little in order to take the spring out of the bucket too.
 
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