JimmyWang
Member
- Location
- Chicago, IL
Disclaimer: This is not a DIY, just to share with everyone that what we all can do and what mistakes I made to help the other people interested in doing this.
Special thanks to our Chicago land big brother :La_FX35 (aka Handy_Andy). If it were not him backing me up and his encouragement, I would just be thinking but not doing. And his offer about coming to help me if I really hit the wall really relived all my fears so I could move forward. Also his fast reply whenever I had a problem or any doubt about how to proceed.
Just some background, not too long ago, I had never opened my engine hood and even changed oil. After joining this amazing forum and seeing so many people "can do", I decided maybe its time for me to give it a try. So if you think you can, don't just think, do it.
///8275[/ATTACH]
The front driver side after the conversion. I also changed the brake line to SS braided one.
///8276[/ATTACH]
The rear changed to slotted and drilled rotors and Akebono ceramic pads. I also painted the caliper to silver to match the front.
The milk case was to temporary hold the brake fluid (which is a mistake and will elaborate later ) while getting the SS line connected.
I also got the parking brake shoes replaced, which is the first mistake I made. After checking carefully later, the old one has no wear at all and I was just wasting my time. There is a nob on the parking brake that one can adjust
through the little window on the rear rotor to tighten it up if anyone accidentally dragging the car with parking brake on for a substantial long distance. And that should be enough.
Second mistake I made, I should change the brake line first by plugging a plug into all the lines rather then just let the fluid run out. Because this will induce air into my master cylinder and it will be a PITA to get it out. The right order should be :
1. top off the master cylinder.
2. Quickly remove the lines and plug the plug provided by the SS line package to the brake tube to stop further leaking (I was wondering what were those for ???).
3. Take your time connect the brake line to the caliper and so on...
4. Bleed the brake.
Other advice I would give:
1. Definitely get a breaker bar. It's only $10 at Harbor Freight and it unlocked so many tight bolts
2. Use a flare nut wrench to remove the brake line since the regular wrench doesn't fit as well and could easily round the nut.
3. One can convert most of his wrench with more leverage by buying those steel pipe from home depot. I made a 3/8 in drive breaker bar by combing an existing wrench with a 18 inch steel pipe. It helped me to get into the tight space
when removing the bolts on the rear torque members.
Last thing, the mechanic I usually went to quote me $750 on this conversion...but the great feeling after doing this and a place to share with my IS friends, priceless....
Special thanks to our Chicago land big brother :La_FX35 (aka Handy_Andy). If it were not him backing me up and his encouragement, I would just be thinking but not doing. And his offer about coming to help me if I really hit the wall really relived all my fears so I could move forward. Also his fast reply whenever I had a problem or any doubt about how to proceed.
Just some background, not too long ago, I had never opened my engine hood and even changed oil. After joining this amazing forum and seeing so many people "can do", I decided maybe its time for me to give it a try. So if you think you can, don't just think, do it.
///8275[/ATTACH]
The front driver side after the conversion. I also changed the brake line to SS braided one.
///8276[/ATTACH]
The rear changed to slotted and drilled rotors and Akebono ceramic pads. I also painted the caliper to silver to match the front.
The milk case was to temporary hold the brake fluid (which is a mistake and will elaborate later ) while getting the SS line connected.
I also got the parking brake shoes replaced, which is the first mistake I made. After checking carefully later, the old one has no wear at all and I was just wasting my time. There is a nob on the parking brake that one can adjust
through the little window on the rear rotor to tighten it up if anyone accidentally dragging the car with parking brake on for a substantial long distance. And that should be enough.
Second mistake I made, I should change the brake line first by plugging a plug into all the lines rather then just let the fluid run out. Because this will induce air into my master cylinder and it will be a PITA to get it out. The right order should be :
1. top off the master cylinder.
2. Quickly remove the lines and plug the plug provided by the SS line package to the brake tube to stop further leaking (I was wondering what were those for ???).
3. Take your time connect the brake line to the caliper and so on...
4. Bleed the brake.
Other advice I would give:
1. Definitely get a breaker bar. It's only $10 at Harbor Freight and it unlocked so many tight bolts
2. Use a flare nut wrench to remove the brake line since the regular wrench doesn't fit as well and could easily round the nut.
3. One can convert most of his wrench with more leverage by buying those steel pipe from home depot. I made a 3/8 in drive breaker bar by combing an existing wrench with a 18 inch steel pipe. It helped me to get into the tight space
when removing the bolts on the rear torque members.
Last thing, the mechanic I usually went to quote me $750 on this conversion...but the great feeling after doing this and a place to share with my IS friends, priceless....
