HOW TO: Replace AWD Front Hub Bearing Assembly

Hi,

I was the using the great write-up to do my own replacement of a front driver side wheel bearing. All the bolts have come off including the one for the speed sensor and that is where I am stuck. The speed sensor would not budge. So I have a few questions that I have not been able to find in any of posts.

1. Does the speed sensor need to come out before the old bearing is removed (appears so from the pictures)
2. Any suggestions for the removal of the speed sensor. Have applied PB blaster liberally and am concerned with the possibility of the cable breaking as it's housing is all plastic.

From what I could see on my own bearing, it does not appear that the bearing could be removed without the speed sensor pulled out. I would appreciate some urgent advice.

Thanks, Raz
 
Last edited:
Well, the speed sensor is jammed solid and the housing is broken. Was trying out another method. Guess, a replacement sensor is on order.

Ran into another problem and hoped somebody might confirm something. Can a 3 jaw bearing puller be used to remove the bearing. I wanted to avoid the hassle of removing all those extra bolts to whack the bearing from behind. Noticed that the axle was being pushed inward with successive turns of the puller and was wondering whether I might damage the axle instead of prying out the bearing. What should be done?

Would appreciate the help.
 
Last edited:
Raz77 said:
Well, the speed sensor is jammed solid and the housing is broken. Was trying out another method. Guess, a replacement sensor is on order.

Ran into another problem and hoped somebody might confirm something. Can a 3 jaw bearing puller be used to remove the bearing. I wanted to avoid the hassle of removing all those extra bolts to whack the bearing from behind. Noticed that the axle was being pushed inward with successive turns of the puller and was wondering whether I might damage the axle instead of prying out the bearing. What should be done?

Would appreciate the help.
Click to expand...
Hey I have a front speed sensor that I bought new and never used for a first gen FX, I thought I needed it at the time but it turned out to be a hub bearing instead.
 
Bumping this up.

Guys I need help choosing the right part from the rockauto.com

There are a few options and I don't wanna pick the wrong one. What is everyone else buying? BECK/ARNLEY, TIMKEN, WJB? I am looking for the entire assembly since I don't wanna mess with pressing the bearing in or out.

These are by far the best prices even tho I have to wait a week for the parts. Anything in Canada I found was too expensive. $277 one place, $375 dealership, $588 part source. Unbelievable how much we are getting ripped off on parts up here.
 
Front use Timken ha590125. $70.89

Rear.. Use moog $87.79

Using rockauto, google rockauto discount coupon. You'll get 5% off your order.

Sent from my SM-G920V
 
Last edited:
toy4x said:
Front use Timken ha590125. $70.89

Rear.. Use moog $87.79

Using rockauto, google rockauto discount coupon. You'll get 5% off your order.

Sent from my SM-G920V
Click to expand...

Perfect!!! That's what I was looking for, 130$ CAD all in with shipping and duty. Shipping is pretty long tho but it saves me 140$ so I can wait a week.
 
Finally got the part and replaced it last night. Everything went smooth until it was time to take off the wheel bearing after taking out all the bolts. I didn't wanna take it off by taking the entire bracket off like this showed and I just hammered it off with a 20lb hammer. But that bent the little thin peace of steel that comes between the wheel bearing assembly and the bracket that it bolts up to. SO when I put it all back with a new WBA, it's making rubbing noises while I drive. It's not loud but I can hear. I think I shouldn't have put that piece back on but it's too late now
 
Are you talking about the dust shield? If you bent that, it will rub on your rotors and start digging into them. You can bend that back into place as its so thin, or not use it at all if it's really bad.

Sent from my SM-G920V
 
toy4x said:
Are you talking about the dust shield? If you bent that, it will rub on your rotors and start digging into them. You can bend that back into place as its so thin, or not use it at all if it's really bad.

Sent from my SM-G920V
Click to expand...

yea that's what I am talking about. I kind of have to use it now since it's already been put on and I don't feel like taking out the bearing again. So I guess I will have to bend it back a little.

Also found out that I needed an 1 1/4" socket to take off the big axle bolt. I didn't see that anywhere in the first post but I didn't read the 4 pages of this thread so it's probably been discussed Oops
 
Well yesterday going home from work I hear a noise again. Same as before for the front left wheel bearing. The right one went too :bad:
Went and bought another one and replaced it under an hour. No more noises!!!
 
Yeah, it is important to mention that you need a 32mm socket to take off the axle nut. It's not a tool most people have laying around since it's not used for anything else really. I had to replace a drive shaft recently and definitely didn't have it laying around. Took 2 trips as the replacement drive shaft used a 36mm socket so I bought that one. Then saw the OEM drive shaft used a 32mm nut, that was annoying.

myron02 said:
yea that's what I am talking about. I kind of have to use it now since it's already been put on and I don't feel like taking out the bearing again. So I guess I will have to bend it back a little.

Also found out that I needed an 1 1/4" socket to take off the big axle bolt. I didn't see that anywhere in the first post but I didn't read the 4 pages of this thread so it's probably been discussed Oops
Click to expand...
 
shadow191 said:
Yeah, it is important to mention that you need a 32mm socket to take off the axle nut. It's not a tool most people have laying around since it's not used for anything else really. I had to replace a drive shaft recently and definitely didn't have it laying around. Took 2 trips as the replacement drive shaft used a 36mm socket so I bought that one. Then saw the OEM drive shaft used a 32mm nut, that was annoying.
Click to expand...

Yea I had everything ready to go, then realized it's 32mm and I was stuck. Luckily my neighbor is a truck driver and they have a lot of bolts that size on his semis so he had the tool and let me borrow it.
 
I got my set from Harbor freight. 7 axle sockets for 39.99. I think I got them at a tent sale and got it for $19.99.

29mm, 30mm, 32mm, 34mm, 35mm, 36mm, 38mm


Sent from my SM-G920V
 
Very nice write up!

I have some noise coming from the front tires.
I have to check if it is the tires or the bearing thats making the noise.
 
Just a quick question. Does anyone have the torque specs for the 4 bolts on the hub assembly and the brake bracket bolts? I was surprised nobody had asked that question as it is kind of important.
 
Psyex said:
Just a quick question. Does anyone have the torque specs for the 4 bolts on the hub assembly and the brake bracket bolts? I was surprised nobody had asked that question as it is kind of important.
Click to expand...

4 bolts on hub assembly : 77 ft/lbs

2 brake bracket bolts : 122 ft/lbs
 
KUDOS to 06FX35!! This post was critical in helping me to replace the front hub/bearings on my wife's 2010 EX35 AWD and saved a TON of money!!

It started with a low humming/whirling which got progressively louder over a few weeks. After some internet searching I realized there are issues with Nissan/Infinity bearings. I found this and some other threads as well as a video. The local Infinity dealership wanted $220 EACH for hub/bearing and $300 labor EACH side. Holy ripoff artists! I bought two Timken bearings for $78 each with free shipping from Amazon: I tried to post the link but I can't as I'm a newbie to the forum. Search "Timken Wheel Bearing Hub" on Amazon and select the details of your vehicle. Then, double-check the part number on the Timken website "showmetheparts .com / timken" (remove spaces for link) (btw - These hubs are supposed to be superior to the Infiniti supplier at a 1/3rd of the cost)

The whole process went well thanks to this post. I found a way to remove the hub without using a puller or slide hammer. I left the 4 bolts in that hold the hub. The only threaded section is on the hub so I made sure the bolts were backed out enough to be able to push the hub outward. I carefully started the car barely touching the brake pedal and turned the wheels to give me better access to the back of the hub (Be careful of the where the brake is hanging. No need to cause more problems by breaking the line). I worked on all 4 bolts over & over with a hand sledge hammer and long, round flat punch (Harbor Freight). It took about 15 minutes to work the hub loose. I sanded, cleaned and lubricated the area before installing the Timken hub/bearing. It did not just fit right back in, it had to be installed by tightening the hub bolts in sequence. Just when I was ready to torque them, I realized I forgot to install the dust shield...#%*$#*@&*$@!!!!! After slapping my forehead a few times, I used the same process of hitting the bolts with a punch. It was very snug but came out much easier than the rusted one. I put everything back together and took a test ride. My assumptions were correct. It was my right front bearing. Quiet like new now. Thanks again!

btw- to hang the brake assembly up and out of the way, straighten a wire hanger and cut a 12 inch piece. Loop one end of the 'hanger' on the top of the coil spring and rap the other end through and around the brake bracket. Works great. You need to keep the assembly up and out of the way when banging on the hub bolts. Also, you don't need a hydraulic floor jack for this. I did not use mine. Due to the difficulty in placing the floor jack in the right spots on these Infiniti's and not having the correct adapter for the side jacking weld point, I used the scissor jack in the car. You MUST use a jack stand along with the scissor jack. Place it next to the scissor jack toward the front of the car and let the jack stand take a little of the weight off the scissor jack.

Good Luck!!
 
Last edited:
did both front wheel bearings on the fx in the beginning of this month, i can definitely feel the difference, drives and rolls much better and smoother. i wanted to add that i did not have to turn the wheel to get the wheel bearing assembly off. i hit the top of the assembly near the shock with a 4.5 lbs all steel hammer holding it with two hands then i used a ball joint/tie rod separator, the fork version (if you have one, but i dont remember paying that much for it, http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ap?ck=Search_N2416_-1_3760&pt=N2416&ppt=C2371) and put that in between the dust shield and the assembly and hammered away switching locations on the assembly, the vibration the fork causes separated the assembly from the hub in no time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top