Fire0nic3's 2009 Infiniti FX35 Thread (Picture's Inside)

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threezero said:
If u do the paint chip repair with langka do leave out sumwhere warm for at least 24 hrs. Don't make the same mistake I did :( I have to redo mine in spring :(
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Everywhere it's cold around here, but I was probably going to use a hair dryer a little bit and leave it probably for 48 hours because it is like 50, then low 30 at night now. :(

I would definitely want to wait for the spring, but the problem now is I'm worried about not covering up the chips before salt is covered in my car for the next few months here in Michigan.

Just curious, what issues did you run into that you need to redo it in the spring? Is it worse than it was before, just curious what the issue is?

Also, this video is a great video on how to do it....it was entertaining watching these two videos also....I'll probably post these on Fire's DIY Dr chip thread too since I'll be doing the langka system.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80059
 
Well I can't say it's worse than before because there is paint in the chip thus it does protect the chip from getting worse.
What happen to mine is that the final step (blob eliminator) took out alot of the touch up paint. It is not smooth and the chip look dull in color compare to the rest of the hood. Thus it is still very noticeable
 
Fire0nic3 said:
That blank button was placed there on purpose. It's where the button will be for the new standard power trunk opening and closing button for the 2011 models.


And yes you could upgrade that panel to the 2010 panel, but you have to take the entire lower console apart. And knowing Infiniti, I bet the 2010 lower knob interface costs a fortune.
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2011 - Self Healing Paint is back and Finally Power Trunk button , my wife has been whining about the trunk not being powered to no end. I feel cheated getting my '10:eek::embarrassed:
 
Atleast it's still some what power lol. It pulls the trunk closed with power.
 
Aaron, I remember you saying a few spots where you are not a believer of self heal paint on our 2009s, but I think i did become a believer this last weekend.....let me explain...

I clayed my car for about 4-5 hours. I got EVERYTHING out. There was stuff in there that I thought would never get out and it got out. I had a door ding (no dent) but it was scuffed hard and felt it rough to the touch...I tried claying it, nothing, but then just for shits and giggles clayed it for 3 minutes, then noticed it slightly got better, clayed for another 5 minutes and bam it's like as smooth as a baby bottom. I was thinking man that is CRAZY! Then I went back to the roof where a rock must had hit hard and scuffed the paint hard no way it's coming out...claying 10 min almost, baby bottom never even happened....makes me think that the heat friction from the clay bar plus the clay bar removing the dirt makes it heal to basically smooth and nothing there even on a bad hit (as long as it doesn't go through to the bottom of the paint like bad rock chips). I have never been able to clay that well and get out EVERYTHING but basically dents and rock chips and I think it's because of this paint.
 
It's possible bro. I know if you take a hair dryer to the paint it works too. I'm still not too sure if the Scratch Shield clearcoat really works, but some claim it does and some says it doesn't. There is a special "gel like" resin blended with the clear coat during the spraying process at the factory. Basically when the sun bakes the paint for a week or couple of days the elastic "gel like" resin in the clearcoat microscopically melts and fills in fine scratches, scuffs, and swirls.
 
It works to some degree I say. But I rather have a non self healing paint that is more resistant to chip. With practice one can remove swirl with a polisher. Chips take alot and alot of work and it will never be as good as before.


I've notice 2 thing that are crap on, at least my Infiniti, the leather and the paint......
 
BUT consider this...

I've had a few cars already. EVERY one of them got a crap load of paint chips. Ford is supposed to have one of the thickest paints. After just a few years, my cobra looked like someone shot it up with a bb gun. It just happens to everybody and so far I don't see it any more than any other car. After claying though, I have never seen that before in any other car. Just my two cents but I know what you are saying too. I guess we can't have it all! ;)
 
I was wondering what you guys though about matte black chrome strips on the grill instead?l:

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atsappin said:
Im thinking about getting the upper and lower strips black chromed. Any thoughts on this idea?
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Don't do black chrome. The center part of the grill is already black chrome. You should do matte or gloss black obsidian. It'll look sweet on your liquid platinum FX.:tup:
 
Few updates:

Folex worked awesome on the pillars...completely dirt free! Thanks! :tup::tup:

Inquired the dealer about updating the switch panel and a/c/heat buttons to the 2010/11 from the 2009 version. Said can't be done since harness is different. I'll take it for what is worth and guess I'll trust them that it can't be done.

Inquired about the 2009 reprogramming the Reminder 1 to something else, etc. This apparently can't be done.
 
jdTrader said:
Few updates:

Folex worked awesome on the pillars...completely dirt free! Thanks! :tup::tup:

Inquired the dealer about updating the switch panel and a/c/heat buttons to the 2010/11 from the 2009 version. Said can't be done since harness is different. I'll take it for what is worth and guess I'll trust them that it can't be done.

Inquired about the 2009 reprogramming the Reminder 1 to something else, etc. This apparently can't be done.
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Good to hear man. I love Folex!:tup:
 
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