+1 on seized bearings if you hear the thunk on turns...Pillow ball mount bearings are probably seized, mine makes this noise right now on slow turns
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looks really low in the back because the wheel is sunken.
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are your wheels spaced? PS looks great... mine went on the other day... front alittle raked. camber is off. i have spacers but worried about the fenders.
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did your kit come witht he shock pads to put between the top plate and the mounting surface??I just installed mine and I'm hearing a constant clunk/rattle with each bump on the road, maybe something loose? I did the install 2 in the am after work so maybe I just need to tighten some bolts
Definitely check those bolts under the dampening adjuster knob... They kept getting loose on my MEGAN's... Still looking good on my BC's though, but I know about it and check it often.I just installed mine and I'm hearing a constant clunk/rattle with each bump on the road, maybe something loose? I did the install 2 in the am after work so maybe I just need to tighten some bolts
That's the nut I was talking about... From what I've seen, if it loosens once, it loosens all the time. I'd check it at least once a month and have a torque wrench handy. My MEGAN's used to get loose ALL THE TIME which is why I'm running BC's now... But I've heard the BC's can get loose as well...Went back there today to adjust the height/preload and found one of the bolts holding the top strut mount wasn't tightened down and the ring adjust on the spring was also loose. All is well now tweaked the dampening 10 clicks from stiff (F) 15 from stiff (R) and she's riding nicely. Just won't work on my car straight after work 2 in the morning anymore, loose bolts and parts in the suspension is scary
No I don't believe so, I just put the paperish material that was on the stock strut, but like I said no noise after doing some tightening and setting the preloaddid your kit come witht he shock pads to put between the top plate and the mounting surface??
No it wasn't the bolt under the dampening adjust knob, it was actually the bolts that held the actual strut down on the top mount plates, but I did check those bolts and they were fine, but I'll continue to check those bolts just in case, thanks for the tip!That's the nut I was talking about... From what I've seen, if it loosens once, it loosens all the time. I'd check it at least once a month and have a torque wrench handy. My MEGAN's used to get loose ALL THE TIME which is why I'm running BC's now... But I've heard the BC's can get loose as well...
Set the spring height where you want it to be. Then set the shock length 5mm shorter. At that point the spring is pushing on the shock and that's the preload. To be honest, it doesn't matter at all. Preload is just the to prevent the spring from rattling or coming loose. It has zero impact on handling or ride since BC uses a linear rate spring.
In the front, adjusting height will not impact preload as they are separate adjustments. In the rear, the height adjustment and preload are related so you will need to adjust. To adjust the rear, you have to unbolt the shock after changing height and thread it so it's 5 or 10mm shorter than whatever you set the height at (or whatever your preload is). I believe BC provides instructions but it's all over the web as well.
Adjusting Spring Preload for BC Racing Coilovers with Separate Spring
It's not a huge deal if you don't adjust as long as you haven't changed your ride height drastically. Pre-load doesn't impact handling or ride and it's mostly there to prevent noise and to a lesser extent, a rear spring popping out. When I had my FX, I never really messed with preload after initially setting it on install and I dropped my car substantially afterwards without adjusting (just lazy). Never had issues with noise or a rear spring coming loose even when I wasn't running collars.
Thanks for this. I am hearing a clunking noise in the rear going over small bumps and can't figure out what it would be from. I'm wondering if this could be from not adjusting the preload?