Coilover adjust help!

illestFX35

Member
Car
2010 FX35 RWD
My BC coils have arrived for my 2nd gen RWD. I am planning to install them this weekend but I got confused a bit. d9020c9ece48ff3197938d47458cad07.jpg
I understand that the rear strut and spring for our cars are seperated. i have only installed coilovers on 2 cars that had the coilovers in one piece all around. To adjust the front is straight forward to me. top 2 rings for preload and bottom ring for height. I have dug around g and z forums for how to adjust the rear ride height but I still havent found a complete answer. On the rear to adjust the height do I use the 2 rings on the spring (which i believe is preload???) or the one ring on the strut?

And Andy regarding my question to you about the bracket, I didnt realize that the car you worked on was AWD so it has a different mount for the bracket than the RWD.




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Here..

[video=youtube;HlqOA35NmAw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlqOA35NmAw[/video]

---------- Post added at 08:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:27 AM ----------

another one...

[video=youtube;rPzL5vFsWSs]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPzL5vFsWSs[/video]
 
Ummm, that second video is not and FX50, lol.


This on how to adjust the rear: https://www.infinitiscene.com/searc...5-BC-Coilover-Install-DIY?p=390419#post390419

You're right. :good:

I just read this thread. So i guess I have to adjust the preload after i lower the height with the SHOCK ring. And should I just run 5 mm preload in the back? I believe the front are already set from the factory.

Anyone know how much more these coils drop when they settle?


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Yep, you will leave it a 0 preload, drive it a bit and see how you like it, and then adjust the preload to your liking. These springs settle very little in my experience.
 
On the rear, the spring adjusts the height and preload. So you set the shock length where you want your ride height to be, then adjust the spring collars to the ride height + preload. It's not an independent adjustment like the front. If you set the shock height incorrectly, you may bottom out or top out as nothing holds the spring in besides the shock.

Shock doesn't adjust height (if you removed the shock, your ride height in rear wouldn't change), it basically just has to be set to an appropriate length for your ride height. On my car, I actually removed one of the rear spring collars to lower my ride height even more and then just set the shock to the correct length.

And FWIW, no correctly made spring is going to settle at all. It can't or else your spring rate/ride would be really messed up. It's a myth perpetuated by people that don't actually measure or park on uneven ground. When people install lowering springs or coilovers and then put the car on the ground, it always looks high. Then they drive down the street and the car comes back slightly lower which is normal and would happen even if you reinstalled OEM springs or even just put your car on a lift and then lower it without doing anything (I tried this once). A spring comes off the production line with it's spring rate, that won't change for millions of cycles. Most people install suspension without readjusting their control arm bushings (you need to loosen the control arm at the lower ride height and then tighten). So their control arm bushings are under additional stress. When that bushing wears out, the car may "settle". But it's not the springs yet people always claim their car is lower after a few weeks of driving around (it was that height about a block after they lowered it but they didn't bother to measure then).
 
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On the rear, the spring adjusts the height and preload. So you set the shock length where you want your ride height to be, then adjust the spring collars to the ride height + preload. It's not an independent adjustment like the front. If you set the shock height incorrectly, you may bottom out or top out as nothing holds the spring in besides the shock.

Shock doesn't adjust height (if you removed the shock, your ride height in rear wouldn't change), it basically just has to be set to an appropriate length for your ride height. On my car, I actually removed one of the rear spring collars to lower my ride height even more and then just set the shock to the correct length.

And FWIW, no correctly made spring is going to settle at all. It can't or else your spring rate/ride would be really messed up. It's a myth perpetuated by people that don't actually measure or park on uneven ground. When people install lowering springs or coilovers and then put the car on the ground, it always looks high. Then they drive down the street and the car comes back slightly lower which is normal and would happen even if you reinstalled OEM springs or even just put your car on a lift and then lower it without doing anything (I tried this once). A spring comes off the production line with it's spring rate, that won't change for millions of cycles. Most people install suspension without readjusting their control arm bushings (you need to loosen the control arm at the lower ride height and then tighten). So their control arm bushings are under additional stress. When that bushing wears out, the car may "settle". But it's not the springs yet people always claim their car is lower after a few weeks of driving around (it was that height about a block after they lowered it but they didn't bother to measure then).

thank you! But how does the spring collar adjust preload? After fiddling with it a little bit it looks like the thread just goes into the spring and does not affect the preload pf the spring at all


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Set the spring height where you want it to be. Then set the shock length 5mm shorter. At that point the spring is pushing on the shock and that's the preload. To be honest, it doesn't matter at all. Preload is just the to prevent the spring from rattling or coming loose. It has zero impact on handling or ride since BC uses a linear rate spring.
 
Set the spring height where you want it to be. Then set the shock length 5mm shorter. At that point the spring is pushing on the shock and that's the preload. To be honest, it doesn't matter at all. Preload is just the to prevent the spring from rattling or coming loose. It has zero impact on handling or ride since BC uses a linear rate spring.

this makes more sense now. Thanks!


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---------- Post added at 08:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:53 AM ----------

had a 9-5 day at work so i did the front when i got home . they look great and i dropped 2 inches. the lower control arm bolt wouldnt come out even with a jack to supprt and took 1 hr for the bolt to come off. easy otherwise took 2 1/2-3 hrs in all for the front. anything i should look out for when i lower the rear?1539059c69182c5884ad1cf2b8b1ff1f.jpg


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Looks nice. Nothing really in the rear other then hoping the two lower bolts (spring bucket and shock) not as tight as the front :smile: May also need to loosen the bolt on the other end of side of the spring bucket a bit if it doesn't want to come down enough to take the spring out from it. Be sure to get an alignment after a day or so of driving.
 
Looks nice. Nothing really in the rear other then hoping the two lower bolts (spring bucket and shock) not as tight as the front :smile: May also need to loosen the bolt on the other end of side of the spring bucket a bit if it doesn't want to come down enough to take the spring out from it. Be sure to get an alignment after a day or so of driving.

does it hurt to get the alignment done a little later like a week?


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Shouldn't matter, but won't hurt either. Align is totally necessary, so you're on the right path.
Looks so much better dropped [emoji1360]
 
im currently getting ready to do the rears right now. i took my aircompressor and impact wrench from my work so i dont have to work as hard :)


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making me want to get coil overs again..... what are you doing about the rear camber issue?
 
making me want to get coil overs again..... what are you doing about the rear camber issue?

nothing lol.


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SHES ALL DONE!!!! More pics to come toooooo dirty right now


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looks really low in the back because the wheel is sunken.


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