Chedman13's 2003 FX45

Anyone have any suggestions on what exact battery model for the front (main)? Not sure what fits without modifications.

The Optima Yellow Top D35 and Red Top model 35 are the two that drop right in with their included height adapters*. FYI, The Red Top is a starting battery, and is meant for engines that are hard to turn or harsh environments. Optima recommends the Yellow for demanding situations (like big car stereos). The Yellow one also has more CCA's than the oem battery, which is already sufficient for starting your car. If you had high compression pistons or lived in Alaska and were rocking the stock stereo the Red Top would probably be your best bet. Things being as they are, you want the Yellow Top D35.

From the Optima website:
Make sure you’re getting every ounce of performance out of your electronics by giving them enough power to annoy everyone around you. The YellowTop deep cycle capabilities allow you to amp it up longer and drain your battery deeper than traditional batteries. That comes in handy at DB drag competitions. It also provides cleaner power with higher voltage output and 16X more vibration resistance than traditional batteries so your battery can bounce to the beat and not lose power over time. Its leakproof design allows you to mount it anywhere, in any position.
*Here's a pic of the height adapter (the yellow plastic piece below the battery). Lots of people get confused because it doubles as a post protector and comes from the factory mounted atop the battery. You just need to remove it and snap it onto the bottom so that all your leads will reach.
adapter.jpg
 
Awesome, thanks. I've always had a red though in my other cars, but then again, I never had an aftermarket audio system.
 
Ed, I love reading every day all the stuff you are doing, but how do you have the time!? I'm lucky if I get an hour from all the work, then house work work, and other work stuff going on....what's the secret!? I know you have at least one kid too, so I must be doing something wrong!?
 
I have the yellow top, no winking lights what so ever. The upgraded alt is to power something we haven't seen??? That's a lot of coin. Why not get a cap or hybrid cap and save some big bucks? Just curious.
 
Ed, I love reading every day all the stuff you are doing, but how do you have the time!? I'm lucky if I get an hour from all the work, then house work work, and other work stuff going on....what's the secret!? I know you have at least one kid too, so I must be doing something wrong!?


One word, plural.... Nannies.
 
One word, plural.... Nannies.

Come on Ian, you think I'm one of those with two 18 year old (twins if you ask Jonas) nannies living in Lincoln Park with my Brownstone building pushing my son around in a Orbit Stroller?:tonguey::rofl:

You have me mistaken for Lance (let's see if he catches that...).
 
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Come on Ian, you think I'm one of those with two 18 year old (twins if you ask Jonas) nannies living in Lincoln Park with my Brownstone building pushing my son around in a Orbit stroller.

So that was you I saw walking around the other day.. Nice pimp cup :tonguey:
 
I have the yellow top, no winking lights what so ever. The upgraded alt is to power something we haven't seen??? That's a lot of coin. Why not get a cap or hybrid cap and save some big bucks? Just curious.

Ha, nothing hidden.

Basically, I have 135k miles on my car and I've been smooth sailings except for some minor normal wear items. I like to do preventative maintenance when I have the time and right now I can leave my car stranded for a few more weeks without needing it.

Water pump, belts, plugs, valve covers, etc... I want to replace them all. Alternator is one other thing I want to replace before the Chicago winter hits. My OEM could be good for another 100k miles, who knows -- but I wanted to replace it now so. So that's my excuse to go high output. Gives me room too, to upgrade a bit easier if I do want a huge box...

My baby seat is really restricting to put down the seats anyways, and as long as I can fit an umbrella stroller I am really fine -- but just don't want to give up the cargo space at this time, maybe in a year or two.

Either way, I guess it is overkill, but my system should be smooth sailing in terms of power=)

Explain to me the cap or hybrid cap. I'm really learning as this build goes from my cousin.

Any suggestions to my build are much appreciated too. I'm trying to build a decent audio system that is not high end (not an audiophile nor want to spend that much on audio), but I'm quickly finding out that a "decent" system is still big $$$$:eek:
 
Cap reffering to a Capacitor. Lots of people use them when upgraded amps, adding subs. They basicly are a 2nd power source running between your amp and main battery. They hold an extra charge and when your sub, subs demand that hard hit it pulls from the cap first. You can get anywhere between a .25 farrad to 50+ farrad if you want. I'm only running a 2 farrad, which in my opinion is just fine for my 1000w. I'd be happy to help ya with any of that if you want homie.

---------- Post added at 01:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:41 PM ----------

The Optima Yellow Top D35 and Red Top model 35 are the two that drop right in with their included height adapters*. FYI, The Red Top is a starting battery, and is meant for engines that are hard to turn or harsh environments. Optima recommends the Yellow for demanding situations (like big car stereos). The Yellow one also has more CCA's than the oem battery, which is already sufficient for starting your car. If you had high compression pistons or lived in Alaska and were rocking the stock stereo the Red Top would probably be your best bet. Things being as they are, you want the Yellow Top D35.

From the Optima website:
*Here's a pic of the height adapter (the yellow plastic piece below the battery). Lots of people get confused because it doubles as a post protector and comes from the factory mounted atop the battery. You just need to remove it and snap it onto the bottom so that all your leads will reach.
adapter.jpg
Great Info Chuck! I did not know about the height adapter, think it's sitting in my garage somewhere. The leads hooked up just fine without it though.
 
Cool -- already sent out alternator and will be built with to 190=) Maybe I can throw on a capacitor on top of that. Overkill? Typical of me. Thoughts?

Cap reffering to a Capacitor. Lots of people use them when upgraded amps, adding subs. They basicly are a 2nd power source running between your amp and main battery. They hold an extra charge and when your sub, subs demand that hard hit it pulls from the cap first. You can get anywhere between a .25 farrad to 50+ farrad if you want. I'm only running a 2 farrad, which in my opinion is just fine for my 1000w. I'd be happy to help ya with any of that if you want homie.

---------- Post added at 01:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:41 PM ----------


Great Info Chuck! I did not know about the height adapter, think it's sitting in my garage somewhere. The leads hooked up just fine without it though.


---------- Post added at 05:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:49 PM ----------

Wow Slamming45 -- capacitors aren't cheap! I'm glad I went the high output alternator now, because I ended up getting a great price on it.
 
I found also the brand of capacitor really matters too....the cheap ones are junk from past experiences. I use a 2 farad tsunami cap.
 
I found also the brand of capacitor really matters too....the cheap ones are junk from past experiences. I use a 2 farad tsunami cap.

Yeah those are like over $150 on crutchfield! I saw some for like $30 (no-name brand), but those can't be good=)
 
Yeah those are like over $150 on crutchfield! I saw some for like $30 (no-name brand), but those can't be good=)

I'm not surprised...I've had other caps and haven't found anything as good as the tsunami one I have. I plan to put it in the FX50 when I get the other stuff installed. Since our electrical systems are like space shuttles, I prefer not to drain directly from the battery. With my luck, I'll have Adaptive cruise control on, huge bass hits and all of a sudden your cruise is not stopping for you! Obviously an exaggeration, but still :)

Our electrical systems drain enough from the battery as it is. I got my battery already replaced by the dealer free of charge. They said it works, but didn't hold as well, so they just put in a whole new one before the pro-rated warranty on batteries kick in. Apparently they said they have seen many FXs where the batteries just get used up much more than others typical cars.
 
With all the added weight and resulting loss in acceleration, you might as well go FI. :ninja:

I am cutting weight right now -- it will offset the weight gain of the audio system.

---------- Post added at 01:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:57 PM ----------

I'm not surprised...I've had other caps and haven't found anything as good as the tsunami one I have. I plan to put it in the FX50 when I get the other stuff installed. Since our electrical systems are like space shuttles, I prefer not to drain directly from the battery. With my luck, I'll have Adaptive cruise control on, huge bass hits and all of a sudden your cruise is not stopping for you! Obviously an exaggeration, but still :)

Our electrical systems drain enough from the battery as it is. I got my battery already replaced by the dealer free of charge. They said it works, but didn't hold as well, so they just put in a whole new one before the pro-rated warranty on batteries kick in. Apparently they said they have seen many FXs where the batteries just get used up much more than others typical cars.

Isn't this more proof to go high-output alternator? =) Clearly more expensive, but my new one should last me another 100k+ miles. Less strain on the battery I think? I can even throw a capacitor on top of it if I really wanted to.

---------- Post added at 02:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:59 PM ----------

Finally. Everything is here now for the performance/maintenance build.

The missing piece was this electric fan harness which is NOT included in the ebay fan. Took 1.5 weeks to get from infinitipartsusa.com.

IMG00494-20110714-0832.jpg
 
dang Ed, u managed to compress 3 months of project work into 2-3 weeks? looking good.
 
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